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Micro Set & Sol - Gloss Surfaces


delticfan

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I’ve been trialing various gloss varnishes on top of Hannants Xtracrylix paint. First out was good old Klear and very glossy it is too, in second place was Tamiya X22 with Microscales Gloss varnish doing well also. My question is how long would you expect these varnishes to harden before using Micro Set on them with decals, I ask because it is leaving a mark on all three varnishes. I tried Micro Sol as well and that makes matters worse by softening the varnish so I’ve sort of guessed you can’t use this. Time between spraying and decals has been approx two days.  Help!

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That's a bit odd that the problem occurs on Microscsle's own gloss.  That has never happened to me even using Microset on it the same day.   

 

I have had decal solvents make cloudy marks on Future.  The marka always went away after applying another coat of Future on top of the area.

 

David

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Hm, you might try Mr Color clear (C46). I paint in Mr Color or Alclad and apply decals directly atop those paints without any issues, that is, without the use of a clear coat. Given this, Mr Color clear should do quite well. As a lacquer, it dries quite quickly.

 

This includes liberal use of both Set and Sol directly atop Alclad, as in this sorry example of an old Monogram decal that never did settle down.:angrysoapbox.sml:

snj-decal4.jpg

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I only use Future as a gloss coat. Occasionally, as in Post #2, I get the cloudiness as well but fix it by letting it dry and adding a bit more decal solution. I panicked the first time it happened and ruined the decal but now with a bit of patience all is good. My go to solutions are the Microscale system. If the decals are a bit stiff, I move up to the Micromark system. If the decals really need persuading I use my dwindling supply of Pollyscale solutions. (could have sworn I bought some Walthers Solvaset but for the life of me I can't find it)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just go down to the paint store and buy a tin of car gloss varnish. It dries rock hard and nothing attacks it.

 

You can get as a two-part PU varnish or one-part poliester. Also get the thinner (dilute it 1:3).

 

One-part Poliester

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And a two-part PU varnish

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I’m a Windsor and Newton fan. At decalling time a paint a bit of Klear for the decal to sit in/on and again when it’s settled. Once dried it gets a coat of W&N Matt. I’ve recently tried sol/set on top of the Hataka range and it removed some of the paint, so I went back to my original method.

 

Steve.

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