Tamiya Enamel paint question

[Evil_Toast_RSA]

It looks like it's Tamiya paint day here in the sub-forum, so I'll add my question to complete the range. 

 

Only have Humbrol and Tamiya enamel ranges available locally. 

 

First off. Humbrol is out. Tried some last year, and of the 8 tins I bought, 3 turned into some sort of jelly like substance in the tin, Coal Black can't make up it's mind if it's Satin, Gloss or Matt and the Ochre and Desert Yellow are fine. The other 2 remain unopened in disgust.

 

So. Tamiya enamels. Used them too and I ran into a problem that it would dissolve and lift the previous layer. What did I do wrong? Not thinned enough (used their brand enamel thinner X-20)? Hell, even used one of their own branded brushes. Help!   

[Space Ranger]

Perhaps too much thinner in the second coat, or not enough drying time allowed for the first coat, or a combination of both. It's difficult be sure, as we can't get Tamiya enamel here in the US, but my experience in brushing other brands of enamels leads me to believe those might be the reasons.

Edited May 13, 2019 by Space Ranger

[Evil_Toast_RSA]

That's the problem. Tamiya enamels don't seem to be available in the Northern Hemisphere from what I've seen. I'm working under the assumption that they would be more airbrush orientated (which I can confirm, they spray amazingly well). Did my usual routine, model cleaned with 90% IPA, primed (Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer, Humbrol primer turned into a gel 🤬) and I even left the one coat on from Friday eve to Monday eve and it still lifted.   

[Smithy]

Tamiya enamels are hideous to brush with, I don't even bother trying.

 

Humbrol had some "quality control" issues 3 or so years back but I have found they are generally good now. Your local supplier probably still has stock from the dodgy period. Using their thinner and good quality brushes yields excellent result I find. I probably thin them at around a 60:40 ratio of paint to thinner and they go on absolutely beautifully. I wait the recommended 6 hours between coats. I've been using them since returning to the hobby in 2001 and apart from the odd bum tin from that dodgy period, I find they are superb for brush painting.

 

I often don't bother to prime unless the colour will be exceptionally light such as white and then I just use Humbrol 64.

[Evil_Toast_RSA]

52 minutes ago, Smithy said:

Tamiya enamels are hideous to brush with, I don't even bother trying.

 

Humbrol had some "quality control" issues 3 or so years back but I have found they are generally good now. Your local supplier probably still has stock from the dodgy period. Using their thinner and good quality brushes yields excellent result I find. I probably thin them at around a 60:40 ratio of paint to thinner and they go on absolutely beautifully. I wait the recommended 6 hours between coats. I've been using them since returning to the hobby in 2001 and apart from the odd bum tin from that dodgy period, I find they are superb for brush painting.

 

I often don't bother to prime unless the colour will be exceptionally light such as white and then I just use Humbrol 64.

Well, that's a confirmed theory then! 

 

Is there a way to differentiate between the rubbish tins and the newer better tins by the label? The ones that turned to goo had Made in UK on them, so I'm a bit wary here. Also, no worries on the time between coats. I usually only get to do this in the evenings so it's usually 24 hours between coats!  

[Smithy]

I'm not sure if there is a way to distinguish the bad tins from the good.

 

Saying that you can use the "bad" stuff and it will turn out fine but it just takes a bit more effort. I have found that you just have to stir it a lot, at the very least 2 minutes, and until you can get it to the best consistency possible. Using whatever you used to stir it (I use bits of plastic sprue) put a few drops/dollops depending on how big a paint job it is into a bottle top or small dish, then add thinner (I find Humbrol's own enamel thinner to be very satisfactory). I use a plastic dropper so I can add the thinner by drops. As I said I probably normally use a 60:40 paint to thinner ratio but with the bad tins I find I need to add a little more thinner to counteract the thicker, gloppier consistency. Saying that I've been brush painting for so long that I'm looking for a particular consistency for the paint to have to be ready for painting rather than measuring anything exactly. For me, I want the paint to be roughly the consistency of skim milk, not too thin but thin enough that it wants to self level when brushed. Once you start thinning paint you'll pick up very quickly from experience what works for you.

 

HTH,

 

Tim

[Space Ranger]

A 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and lacquer thinner has worked well for me with the gloppy Humbrol.

[sapperastro]

I must live in an alternate universe, because as long as I have used them, Tamiya enamel paint has been excellent. Smooth coverage, plenty of pigment and no problems at all with lifting, however...you are using Tamiya enamel thinner? I have noticed that when I have painted Humbrol matt coat on top, using humbrol enamel thinner, there has been a slight issue with lifting. And Tamiya enamel is not the hardest wearing enamel, but more than good enough. I think you are doing something wrong there.