Badder Posted May 19, 2019 Author Share Posted May 19, 2019 8 minutes ago, Ozzy said: Nice start Badder, your weathering looks fantastic. Hi Clive, Thanks. I fully expect a lot of the mud to 'fall off' during the build, but I wanted to get some gunk on there. And I'm not expecting ANYTHING to stay the same colour either. But I've come to expect that of myself because I'm always right! So far though, I'm happy with how everything has gone. Rearguards, Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 A fine start badder, your good at that mud, I'm going to have to dust off my tank wheel painting tool on mine, these things have got as many wheels as a centipede's got legs, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Hi Badder. Well your tracks wheels and lower hull work are all looking excellent! A wonderfully informative modelling thread already!! Very well done. Kind regards, Stix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 5 hours ago, Hewy said: A fine start badder, your good at that mud, I'm going to have to dust off my tank wheel painting tool on mine, these things have got as many wheels as a centipede's got legs, 10 minutes ago, PlaStix said: Hi Badder. Well your tracks wheels and lower hull work are all looking excellent! A wonderfully informative modelling thread already!! Very well done. Kind regards, Stix Thanks chaps! I went to work this morning, was there 15 mins and someone said 'What are you doing here?' Turns out I had a day's holiday in lieu of a bank-holiday I worked and I'd forgotten. Not the first time I've ever done that, and not the eighth time either! So I've had a whole morning to get things even further along. As predicted, the wheels have changed colour significantly, and they will do again. But I've also made the turret up, barring a few bits. I think I'll be putting a base coat on the entire thing shortly. Glynn, just call it what it is. 'A polypropylene stencil, with a series of increasingly large circles which can be used either to draw circles, or use as masks for airbrushing such things as model tank tyres or Polka dots on dresses'. Rearguards, Badder 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Badder said: Glynn, just call it what it is. 'A polypropylene stencil, with a series of increasingly large circles which can be used either to draw circles, or 😁, handy though 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 As promised, the wheels changed colour, significantly - but first I painted the tyres using the old 'mount the wheel on a toothpick, place a loaded brush against the rim and twizzle the wheel around, letting capillary action do the rest of the work' method: For those wheels with no handy hole in for impaling with a toothpick, a toothpick was used in conjunction with a blob of Blu-Tac. I then went a bit mad and gave all of the wheels and the lower hull washes with watered-down Burnt Umber. The wheels were then rubbed back a bit and were then given a less dilute wash with Burnt Umber. The result is WAY TOO ORANGEY-YELLOW, but I'll be rubbing them back and re-applying a whitewash. But I went ahead and stuck them in place anyway. Again, note the slightly raised wheel 3rd from left: Once the tracks are on, only the outermost wheels/tyres will be seen really, so the innermost wheels/tyres didn't need precision painting. And under a different light, not as bad as above: And then I went even madder and decided to add the tracks, but not before applying a buff wash to the lower hull. FITTING THE TRACKS First a test fitting - threading the tracks around the wheels and using the drive sprocket to help hold the 'join' together, like so: As it turned out there was too much slack in the track length, so I removed a link. Remember, I said that I usually leave 1mm or so of pin wire sticking out of each link for such times as might want to remove a pin, BUT I don't leave any pin sticking out for those links which can be seen in their entirety, like here at the drive sprocket and those at the idlers. So, here it was a case of having to bend the 'first' (innermost) pin guide right back on itself to expose the pin inside, then grasp the pin with pliers and pull it out. The removed link: FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NEVER ASSEMBLED FRIULS (OR SIMILAR) BEFORE: IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT A LINK AT ONE END OF A TRACK LENGTH IS MUCH EASIER TO REMOVE THAN THE LINK AT THE OTHER END. IF YOU LAY THE TRACK-LENGTH OUT FLAT WITH THE GUIDE HORNS POINTING UP, THEN THE EASIEST LINK TO REMOVE IS THE ONE WHICH HAS ITS WIDEST PART (THE BIT WITH THE LATERAL 'TREAD' ON IT) UNPINNED AND HANGING FREE. THE TRACK LINK AT THE OPPOSITE END HAS ITS 'WIDEST PART' PINNED ALREADY, AND THE NARROWEST PART OF THE LINK IS HANGING FREE. IN THE PHOTO ABOVE, YOU CAN SEE THAT I COULD, IF I WISHED, BEND THE PIN GUIDE STRAIGHT AGAIN AND RE-USE THE TRACK LINK. IF I'D TRIED TO REMOVE THE LAST LINK ON THE OTHER END OF THE TRACKS IT WOULD HAVE MEANT HAVING TO CUT THE LINK OFF WITHOUT DAMAGING THE NEXT LINK - NOT SO EASY OF COURSE, YOU COULD LEAVE 1MM OF PIN STICKING OUT OF EVERY TRACK LINK SO AT ANY STAGE OF ASSEMBLY, AND FOR WHATEVER REASON, THE REMOVAL OF A LINK AT EITHER END IS EQUALLY EASY. ANYWAY.......WHERE WAS I? AH, YES... This was where I intended to pin the two ends of the track-length together - the sprocket helping to hold the end links in place and nicely lined up - so I stuck a bit of pin wire ONLY JUST into one of them: And, offering the other end of the tracks back up to the sprocket again, used flat nosed pliers to make the join. I test fitted the other set of tracks in exactly the same way, but they and they fitted perfectly - the slightly raised wheel on that side taking up the slack. So I joined the tracks. With that done, I then started constructing the turret. More on that later. TFL Badder 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 THE TURRET I'm going to open up the commander's and gunner's hatches, but I'm also thinking of opening up one or both of the hatches in the rear storage bin. If I do do that (do, do, do, dah, dah, dah) I may use the hatches from my old Tiger. Until I'd decided one way or the other I was happy to stick the bin in place..... SPOT THE 'OVERSIGHT': Yes, silly me. Why use the kit's inferior spare track links when I have Friuls? So, off came the spare tracks! And on went the Friuls. And that's when I hit my first problem. Not a major one, but a problem none the less. I'm currently sorting that problem out, but I shall leave you all in suspense as to what that problem is until tomorrow. TFL Badder 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 Hi Badder. Hope you are keeping well. Great to see you are making such fantastic progress and I do enjoy your tutorials - they are very useful. Everything looks to be progressing beautifully. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 21, 2019 Author Share Posted May 21, 2019 18 minutes ago, PlaStix said: Hi Badder. Hope you are keeping well. Great to see you are making such fantastic progress and I do enjoy your tutorials - they are very useful. Everything looks to be progressing beautifully. Kind regards, Stix Thanks Stix, I do aim to provide something useful if I can. Everything was progressing nicely until I put the kit's spare tracks on the turret instead of the Friuls.... and then when I put the Friuls on I put the line of 5 on a tiny bit on a slant and not spaced as I'd have liked (i'd filled the locating holes up and sanded them down and so fixing the track links precisely wasn't so easy) Anyway I removed the 5 Friu;s and haven't as yet re-fixed them. And then I discovered that although the 2 spares on the other side were placed perfectly, they had to come off as well! It turns out that Tamiya would have you fix them too close to the storage bins and when the turret is turned to allow the lifting of the engine cover, either the bin or the spare tracks foul the cover and prevent it from opening. I'm a bit exhausted today so I will probably fall asleep shortly. (I won't know that I have until I wake up!) I doubt there'll be much in the way of progress today. Rearguards Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 Hi Badder. Sorry you are having the issues with the spare tracks on the turret but I'm sure you'll get them sorted soon. Sorry also that you are suffering from exhaustion today. If you don't manage to get much more done today at least it will mean there is something to look forward to doing later or tomorrow. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 20 hours ago, Badder said: but first I painted the tyres using the old 'mount the wheel on a toothpick, place a loaded brush against the rim and twizzle the wheel around, letting capillary action do the rest of the work' method: Luddite, these methods are so yesterday 🤣 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 3 hours ago, Badder said: It turns out that Tamiya would have you fix them too close to the storage bins and when the turret is turned to allow the lifting of the engine cover, either the bin or the spare tracks foul the cover and prevent it from opening. That was a problem in real life B, check this link: http://tiger1.info/EN/Opening-engine-hatch.html In summary, the crew had to remove one link AND turn the turret to within a narrow range of angles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 21, 2019 Author Share Posted May 21, 2019 4 hours ago, PlaStix said: Hi Badder. Sorry you are having the issues with the spare tracks on the turret but I'm sure you'll get them sorted soon. Sorry also that you are suffering from exhaustion today. If you don't manage to get much more done today at least it will mean there is something to look forward to doing later or tomorrow. Kind regards, Stix Hi Stix, I've just woken up and am feeling much refreshed thanks, so I will be posting some stuff - if not doing much in the way of model-making. I haven't as yet read Robert's link, but it seems that Tamiya were correct and the spare links did in fact foul the engine cover! So, the two spare tracks will have to be moved back to their original position (and I shall remove one as per the Tiger crews' 'Engine Cover Opening Procedure') Luckily (and obviously) the links are CA'd on so removal won't be an issue. The link 'retaining' brackets might prove an issue though. These links have been pulled off more times than a..... um. Rearguards Badder 2 hours ago, Hewy said: Luddite, these methods are so yesterday 🤣 I know, I know. I really whish I had a precisely perforated piece of polyurethane produced for the purpose of protecting projects from paint. Rearguards, Badder 1 hour ago, Robert Stuart said: That was a problem in real life B, check this link: http://tiger1.info/EN/Opening-engine-hatch.html In summary, the crew had to remove one link AND turn the turret to within a narrow range of angles Aaaaaaargh! I knew about the 'having to turn the turret' but the 'having to remove a spare link' is a new one on me! But thank you so much. I will now move my links yet again! Rearguards Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 21, 2019 Author Share Posted May 21, 2019 (edited) The photo below shows how the turret had to be turned in order that the engine cover be opened. However, THIS Tiger had no spare tracks hanging on the turret, so it could be turned to the left or right. Robert's link shows and explains how the addition of the rear storage bin and spare track holders on the turret restricted the options for opening the hatch even further, eventually meaning that the turret had to be swung to the right at a very specific angle and a track link removed in order to open the hatch. Nice design! Like Robert, I won't post the diagrams/photos in the link he provided - there is a 'double-layer' of copyright issues! But anyone wishing to see the issues with opening the hatch should have a look. Here's my incorrect Tiger turret as it stands at the moment (The deck is dry-fitted) As described in the link, the hinge of the escape hatch and the spare links on the turret fouled the engine cover in real life. I assumed that Tamiya had positioned the spare links incorrectly and I mistakenly moved them in order to allow the opening of the hatch. You can see that I filled the original locating holes for the links. Now I will have to move the links back again! But I don't fancy dealing with all that this evening. Instead I'm going to start on the exhaust and air filter system. TFL Badder Edited May 21, 2019 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 21, 2019 Author Share Posted May 21, 2019 38 minutes ago, Badder said: In the photo above, the Tiger's LH air filters and exhaust pipe covers have been punctured - either by small arms fire or shrapnel. The turret also has damage above the painted black cross - again either from small arms fire or shrapnel. Meanwhile, one of the side skirts and the mud guard's hinged flap on the LH have been ripped off. I will attempt to replicate all of this damage on my Tiger. TFL Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 Mmm lots of interesting features in that photo - well worth mining for damage detail B, and not just the exhaust & air filter. Wonder what unit that was? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 The Tiger on the extreme left of your photo has what appears to be a unit shield on the right rear hull. By the time I'd got the picture big enough to see it was there though it was so pixellated as to be indecipherable. Perhaps someone with a better monitor/zoom set-up could help? Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 21, 2019 Author Share Posted May 21, 2019 11 minutes ago, Robert Stuart said: Mmm lots of interesting features in that photo - well worth mining for damage detail B, and not just the exhaust & air filter. Wonder what unit that was? I don't now which unit it was but their motto was 'We who are not afraid to poke at our rectums in front of the camera.' Meanwhile: The exhaust mufflers have been given the old Poly-treatment for rust effects. And I've shown the cooling fan covers for the Early and Late Tigers, showing the differences in the grill pattern. TFL Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 21, 2019 Author Share Posted May 21, 2019 11 minutes ago, Foxbat said: The Tiger on the extreme left of your photo has what appears to be a unit shield on the right rear hull. By the time I'd got the picture big enough to see it was there though it was so pixellated as to be indecipherable. Perhaps someone with a better monitor/zoom set-up could help? Andy Hi Andy, That Tiger has the air pipes fixed across the engine cover, yet the filtration units on the back plate are missing. The 'unit marking' is where one of those units should be and I'm wondering if the 'marking' is actually the mount for the missing filtration unit? IF it IS a mark, it appears to me to be a cross in a box, but as you say, it's very vague and difficult to tell. Reargaurds, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 27 minutes ago, Badder said: Hi Andy, That Tiger has the air pipes fixed across the engine cover, yet the filtration units on the back plate are missing. The 'unit marking' is where one of those units should be and I'm wondering if the 'marking' is actually the mount for the missing filtration unit? IF it IS a mark, it appears to me to be a cross in a box, but as you say, it's very vague and difficult to tell. Reargaurds, Badder I think you could be right. Extensive Googling has failed to turn up any unit badge the right shape. There's an SS one that's close-ish, but they don't look like SS uniforms. Was an interesting diversion though, so nothing wasted Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 (edited) No progress this afternoon as the power supply to our village was cut so that 'essential upgrades' could be carried out in the little brick 'shed' at the end of our lane for 8 hours. However, the power is back on and I did get the exhaust mufflers and guards on. Both mufflers were treated with MIG Extra Thin poly and given a stippling to suggest rust. I also dented the RHS muffler. Of course, all of this would be hidden if I put the (damaged) covers on, but I may leave one or both of the covers off. I haven't decided yet. I know some will be shocked by the 'mud' all over my Tiger even before it's been base-coated, but a I've also removed the two spare tracks from this side of the turret. Oh, and I spilled a drop of liquid poly on the top of the turret and this melted the plastic causing a dent. The dent, forward of the gunner's sight, was filled, but how successfully I won't know until a base coat is applied. I'm aware overzealous sanding of the spare-tracks area partially removed the weld bead at the base of the turret below the pistol port - and this will have to be repaired using stretched sprue. With regards to the wheel colour change - the box art suggests that S04 was lacking the 3 colour camo scheme and was plain Dunkelgelb with winter whitewash. Personally I think that's an error and S04 should have had the 3 colour scheme. with whitewash. My tiger 'S02' will be a half-way house - 2 tone, Dunkelgelb and green. I totally forgot that I had these in the stash: I think I bought these for my Nashorn - intending to convert them or use as donors of parts to improve the Nashorn crew - and then forgot about them. They are 'Special Edition' with lots of extra equipment, but the poses could have been a lot better in my opinion. Still, one or two of them may be okay 'as is' and others might be converted. TFL Badder Edited May 23, 2019 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 25, 2019 Author Share Posted May 25, 2019 The mud-flaps are a bit of a pain to fit as the surface details on the rear plate and the details of the mud flap fixing points do not actually correspond. It's a case of 'does it fit here? Yes, Does it look right? No. Does it also fit here? Yes it fits there as well. Does it look right? No. Let's try it here then..... etc, etc' Anyway, they are on and so are a few other bits and pieces. I went for the long starting handle (bottom right) The circular feature beneath the handle's grip gives access to the engine's manual start. The tracks look to be on 'wonky' but that's because there's a tiny bit of slack in them which I didn't 'take up' at the sprocket end, so they are hanging at this end. I I did say that I was going to replicate the damage to the Tiger in the period photos - well, I am, but the damage will be transposed to the RHS of my Tiger. That makes so much more sense! TFL Badder ps. I gather Flickr is 'down'. Anyone know what the issue is? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 Love those exhausts badder, admittedly your weathering methods on this build are different to the norm, I've no doubt its been well thought out, and will be a complete success 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 25, 2019 Author Share Posted May 25, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, Hewy said: Love those exhausts badder, admittedly your weathering methods on this build are different to the norm, I've no doubt its been well thought out, and will be a complete success Hi Glynn, Thanks for the liking of the exhausts. As for the second half of your comment, that prompted a genuine laugh out loud!l, It is a bit experimental, yes. But whether it proves successful is a different matter. It may just turn out a waste of time! But as things stand at the moment, I think the lower parts of the rear panel look pretty realistic, yet not a single drop of paint (ink) has been applied deliberately and it's really just 'dirty' plastic. But here's the thinking When I was converting my Sherman in the M3/M4 STGB and adding that extra armour plating, it got a bit raggedy, dirty and dusty, what with all the cutting and filing etc... and I got a bit lazy and didn't bother brushing/wiping and blowing all of the plastic dust off the model. As it turned out that actually helped when it came to the weathering and the chipping in particular. In places where it was 'stuck on' it acted as a kind of 'dirt mask' and when it was eventually removed it made a nice effect. And similar was achieved with my Nashorn - though not to such a great extent as I didn't use a chipping fluid. But with this Tiger, I am exploring the possibilities further and going out of my way to make it dirty before ANY coats go on. The 'dirt' is 70 percent plaster of paris, 30 percent coal ashes, so I know it will reactivate when wet. I'll be able to move it around or remove it partly/fully at any stage. But it will affect the finish in some way and hopefully create some interesting/realistic effects. I will be adding more of it as well. Rearguards, Badder Edited May 25, 2019 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 2 hours ago, Badder said: got a bit raggedy, dirty and dusty, what with all the cutting and filing etc... and I got a bit lazy and didn't bother brushing/wiping and blowing all of the plastic dust off the model. As it turned out that actually helped when it came to the weathering and the chipping in particular. In places where it was 'stuck on' it acted as a kind of 'dirt mask' and when it was eventually removed it made a nice effect. I suppose you've got a" name or term" for this new badderesque weathering method, ( I know your always inventing new words) 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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