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SPz Abt 503, 123, Jan/Feb '43


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Good to see more progress Robert and I do like the way you are presenting your modelling from two kits! :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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Thanks Stix :)

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Woke early today, so had a chance to do some work on the RyeField kit

 

Added a few bits to the rear hull

pzvi-stgb-043.jpg

 

The hull top is - more or less - there, apart from stowed equipment

pzvi-stgb-044.jpg

 

Work has started on the front of the vehicle.


 

 

 

pzvi-stgb-045.jpg

 

The plate infront of the driver and MGunner is fixed.

RyeField would have you add the driver's vision port before fixing the plate over the differential.

I tried this (forgetting to add the driver's glazing), but fortunatly tested the fit before the glue set off.  The plates will not fit together if you follow RyeField's sequence.

 

You'll also see, I've started removing the front mudguards.  Both hinges are still complete, a little careful carving may save me replacing the hinge.

(OT, I used to have a speel chekker on this machine, it seems to have stopped working).

 

 

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As an aside, the details in RyeField's wheels and drive train would be a delight to a diorama builder - this will be hidden behind the drive sproket

pzvi-stgb-046.jpg

The scratches here are all mine.

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Good progress Robert.

 

I like what you're doing with the front fender.

 

I was considering doing the same,  but need to find photos of its construction. I know that the 'side flap' folds upwards and so does the square section, but it's hard to tell if the side flap can fold right over and lay on top of the square section, or not. Also, when the square section is folded back, does it lean back against the upright frontal armour and does the side flap then lay along the side of the hull or does it stay 'straight' - because here's that little slotted contraption' roughly half way along the hinge which I assume  slides backwards and forwards and 'locks' the side flap into a fixed position and stops it flapping up and down as the Tiger travels over uneven ground.

 

BTW, I saw some WWII film footage of a Tiger travelling at speed down a bumpy incline and the fender bounced up and down quite aggressively, while the side flap also er..... flapped about. It was quite an insight as to how the fenders were constructed/functioned.

 

Not the clip I was looking for, but it answers some questions:

hYA185I.jpg

 

 

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

Edited by Badder
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Thanks @Badder,

I want tgo lose the fenders on the RyeField model, so that is (relativly) easy ... still got to deal with the hinges though.

 

Have you looked at Aber's instructions for this area?

Africa Tiger fenders and mud flaps: http://www.aber.net.pl/upload/pdf/87b7b01321c0a74ac627c4486000fec2.pdf

Every Tiger I mud flaps: http://www.aber.net.pl/upload/pdf/2896c56b5605898c451c86e533f21009.pdf

Only thing is, there are design differences between the two sets of instructions - but you may find a pointer or two there.

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Been looking at the Zvezda tracks

 

pzvi-stgb-047.jpg

 

These are my best link & length tracks to date, but I can't say I'm totally happy with them.  I may replace them with more flexible items later.

 

 

 

Heads up: Today is Sunday.  D-Day starts on Thursday, and that will distract me from the big cats

banner-003.jpg&key=f5aa5f8245b7eea71f953

 

 

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And making progress with the RyeField tracks.

There are something like 960 track parts per tank, which sounds a lot, but I now have it down to a process - and process that is far less frustrating than Zvezda's link and length tracks.

 

This lot are for just one side ... 96 links, each with two guide horns. 

pzvi-stgb-048.jpg

 

Yes, the sprues need removing, but that is minor in the scheme of things.

 

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RyeField tracks are now assembled into three runs per side (40, 35, and 20 links) together with some 'loose' links (still on sprue) - and primed white.

 

pzvi-stgb-049.jpg

 

I've just ordered a set of RyeField tracks to replace the Zvezda tracks.  The RyeField tracks may not be as quick* and easy as metal ones, and they lack the weight, but they are priced around £20 so a noticable saving compared with metal links.

 

 

* OT: RyeField's Panther tracks have moulded in track guides, substantially reducing the part count.

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On 04/06/2019 at 12:30, PlaStix said:

Great work on those RFM tracks Robert - they do look very good. :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

 

On 05/06/2019 at 18:51, Hewy said:

Stix has said it, nice tracks, I like those robert

I liked them so much, I bought some more, along with a few other goodies ...

 

pzvi-stgb-051.jpg

 

 

The figures will supply crews fot the tanks,  The Kharkov crew are SS, but I'm hoping this character can be converted to wehrmacht (Heer).

pzvi-stgb-052.jpg

 

The France guys will, of course, need new hats

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Had a chance to work on some of the new tracks ... eighteen sprues of twelve links each in the box ... ten sprues (120 links) now have guide plates.

While it is slower than fully moulded links, this is MUCH quicker than my first set ... and quicker, in practice, than I was with the Zvezda link & length tracks.

 

Anybody else builds a RyeField tiger, take a glance at their instructions, but don't necessarily follow them.

RM5002_1.jpg

 

I find glueing the guide horns to the links BEFORE separating the links is easier.

 

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They look interesting Robert, I see at the bottom that states 96 links. The AFV club ones I built stated 95, I used 96 per side on a dragon kit.

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Yes @Ozzy, the number of links in a track is an interesting call.  I have a suspicion that the number of links varied in real life.

The box actually contains enough for 108 links per side (or some spares), though Ryefield don't state this.

 

In terms of model making, The Ryefield rear idler is set for a fixed length, so I may have to vary the length of the tracks.  The Zvezda idlers are independently flexible, more like the original vehicles.

 

My first set of tracks is 2x 95 links, which should allow me to add links when the wheels go on.

If I do need to knock a link or two out, it shouldn't be too hard (famous last words)

 

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The new tracks have guieds glued, and have now been primed ...

A mix of white and grey primers, together with some black paint to act as a base coat ...

 

pzvi-stgb-053.jpg

 

It is an experiment, to see what happens if I mix up the tones a bit.

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My second set of RyeField tracks are now advanced ... 95 links per side at the moment (as with the first set).  This should allow me to add one or two links each as needed.

pzvi-stgb-056.jpg

 

First set on the left, new pair on the right.

 

The varied base coats works - OK.  If I were to do something similar again, I'd probably use mainly grey primer, with limited white.

The black base produces a very good dark track colour, good for single colour tracks.  To my eye, there too much contrast between black and grey bases, let alone black and white.

 

These will all recieve additional paint when I've finalised their lengths.  This should reduce the contrast and tonal variation.

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 Oohh Cor, they look good, I know this because of the sink mark-flash  laden crap tracks I'm building 😁, mud, and plenty of it will be my bed fellow, if I were you Robert it would be dust only on your beautys, I admit you were right, pay the extra for a top kit, you get top parts, ahem my tiger was £20🤔

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Hewy, Stix

Ten days ... I haven't forgotten this build - honest.

 

 

 

Had a chance to spray the insides of these models this morning ... black for the hulls, grey for the turrets

pzvi-stgb-057.jpg

 

I'll probably give the Ryefield another coat of black inside the hull.

In photographing these, I've managed to knock off both starter plate thinggies (the diamond shaped thing at the back), the Zvezda a while back, the RFM today.

 

And dry fitted

pzvi-stgb-058.jpg

 

The turret insides are due to get a coat of white

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