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Can a surface fingerprint in X22 Tamiya gloss varnish disappear under satin varnish ?


Merlin

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Hi,

I understood reading the 'net' that Tamiya gloss X22 would produce a bullet proof hard finish. Furthermore using Mr Hobby self levelling thinner would make the best glass like finish, awesome in fact.

I tried it, got a glass like finish..wow !

set it aside in dust free environment on rad set at 21deg C for 6 hrs, then reverts to 18C and just under 24 hrs later I handle it, feels nice, no tackiness. Appears cured.

I few mins later I notice a finger print, and thumb print from where I had been holding it doing some measuring. on the surface, not gone into it as such, but wont rub away with the same fiingers that put it there !

Now what do I do ? Will this varnish over ? or do varnished fingerprints show ? They are 'on the surface' as opposed to ' gone into into wet varnish' .  I cant rub it down if its still 'technically not 100% cured, it could be 'soft',  things need to be 100% hard . Would another layer of satin varnish lose it, as that was the next stage, a final satin coat ?

 

As such this hasnt cured as expected. would this be the self levelling thinners an alien substance to the normal X20A thinners.

 

Maybe a few more days it would be handleable but I need to be handling it now !  deadline to meet, and fix three fingerprints.

 

Merlin

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I've found X22 takes a long time to fully cure, days sometimes, the prints don't go deep in but show.

Last time this happend I lightly sprayed some Mr Levelling thinners over the mark and it went, I then left it to harden off.

Gunze Mr Hobby do the same thing, yet their Mr Colour go rock hard in next to no time

I now always wear nitrile gloves when handling painted models, not sure if it's the oils in your fingers or the heat which makes it happen apart from the paint still being soft

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Hi,

I have tried nitrile gloves tonight but they also left a mark,...eeeeek !

Thus its not finger oils, its the darned stuff itself, would x20a thinners have made a difference ? I also hear of cellulose , am I right ,though in a confined space with an unvented to outside world booth thats a stinky and health iffy way to go.

The finish was glasslike, such a shame if Mr H SLT is the cause.

I need to assemble this thing now yet cant handle it, wish I had known this issue.

 

I used MH GS satin varnish on a model and days later I was having to assemble it with nitrile gloves, minute ebrass items being attached with what felt like modelling with boxing gloves on.

 

We dont get to know this until its too late, nothing on the jars saying beware allow 2 weeks before handling.

 

I would have gone with Galeria gloss, but again no experience, so does Galeria dry rock hard overnight on a radiator or what ?

I have alclad, valejo, galeria, Tamiya, protec, Liquitex, microscale, and more, yet find myself unable to just grab a varnish with confidence now.

Mr Hobby super clear is rattle can so a pain for small fry but that was awesome for the pre-decaling coat.

 

I am speed modelling for a deadline so thought acrylic the way to go, but its not any better, except easier cleanup.

 

I also need to find a satin varnish that does go on perfectly, is not affected by distance and pressure and atmosphere etc, and dries rock hard overnight, and is satin.

I will post a new thread on this satin quest !

 

Merlin

Edited by Merlin
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Hi,

wish I had known that, we see the stuff on display and buy it. Researching varnishes a lot of them appear to have issues.

Interested to know if cellulose as thinner solves the sticky ones.

Struggling to find those not having an issue.,  one would think by now we had varnishes that worked without the tackies.

galeria seems to be ok, though my satin came out matt so I need to establish what mix gives satin, some experimenting to be done.

Wish the white acrylic ones didnt make things go whiter, especially evident on black. Denies my use of them. They appear to cure better.

 

Merlin

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