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Italian Typhoon - more shades of grey, anyone?


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17 hours ago, Spookytooth said:

Forthed Giemme, great work on the pit.

And very neat soldering on the exhaust sir.

 

Simon.

Thanks Simon, glad you like it :thumbsup:

4 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

Wonderful detail work Giorgio, you are really pulling out all the stops on this one.

:D Cheers JD, thanks - I like that expression :thumbsup:

2 minutes ago, Terry1954 said:

Very nice work in the "office" there Giorgio.

 

Terry

Thank you Terry :thumbsup:

 

Ciao

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On 22/05/2019 at 00:20, The Spadgent said:

Lovely work on the office Giorgio, nice extra detailing too. Ah yes the red stickers. I think I remembered them. 🤔

 

Johnny

Thanks Johnny! :thumbsup: Did you? Are you sure? I'd go and check.... :whistle: :rofl: 

 

Here's some progress, I manged to work on this a bit over  a couple of evenings. I wasn't 100% happy with the APU exhaust, so here's my second go at it

APU5

 

APU6

 

This time I used a cutout from an Airwaves PE fret, and the solder wouldn't bond to it at all. I guess it's coated with something that prevents bonding, no matter how much flux I used. I managed it, in the end, but there's a small dent in the top corner (looking at the above pic) and I still have to figure out how to fix it. CA didn't work, BTW.

 

Remember the panel lines I added around the cockpit? On the real AC, they show a very prominent riveting, much more visible than in any other areas. It can be seen here

http://www.drivefly.it/walkaround/eurofighter-ef-2000-a-typhoon.php

 

So I thought of adding those rivets, with the help of same Tamiya masking sheet and my INCIDO

riveting1

 

and here's how it looks

riveting2

 

Starboard

riveting3

 

That's it for the night, comments welcome

 

Ciao

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2 minutes ago, giemme said:

guess it's coated with something that prevents bonding

A good rub with some steel wool should sort such matters Giorgio. Even metal surfaces that look free of any layers of stuff can need it prior to flux. Think it was either hendie or Bill who drummed that into me and dead right too!

6 minutes ago, giemme said:

and here's how it looks

Classy. :clap2: Superb idea marking the intervals on the tape like that. Duly nicking that idea and calling it a tribute act. :worthy:

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On 24/05/2019 at 23:19, TheBaron said:

A good rub with some steel wool should sort such matters Giorgio. Even metal surfaces that look free of any layers of stuff can need it prior to flux. Think it was either hendie or Bill who drummed that into me and dead right too!

Classy. :clap2: Superb idea marking the intervals on the tape like that. Duly nicking that idea and calling it a tribute act. :worthy:

Thanks for the tip, Tony - will definitely try that next time! :thumbsup: And yes, please feel free to nick any ideas, I do that continuously ... :whistle: :D 

On 24/05/2019 at 23:50, The Spadgent said:

Rivet. 🐸

 

great work G. I did check back and thought I’d missed the little red sticker but I popped it on near the end. 😇

Ah, very good then :)  :D  And thanks for the praise

 

A MondayNight Update, everybody (at least for us European guys - and I mean it geographically :whistle: :devil: )

 

Last WE saw a lot of dry fitting -  and I mean a lot! :frantic:  Which led me to the consideration that the kit IP coaming is just no good, so I decided to get rid of it and scratch build a new one. I marked with a fine black pencil the delimitation lines

coaming1

 

and used these Dremel bits to remove the excess plastic

coaming2

 

Then I glued the resin IP in place

coaming3

 

adding a styrene sheet cutout that approximately matched the coaming shape

coaming4

 

This served as base to lay some Milliput on

coaming5

 

which was roughly shaped using a wet spatula. Then after much dry fitting, sanding, scraping (both on the milliput coaming and the fuselage plastic) I got to this point

coaming6

 

coaming7

 

where the IP and tub fit properly, but the coaming still needs refining, that is tapering it towards the front. But that will happen later this week.

 

While waiting for the milliput to cure, I also reworked the radome: I fitted a needle inside it and added CA+flour around the tip area, reshaping it with my ETS

radome1

 

radome2

 

Since the milliput was out, I also added a small blob of it around the hinge area, to fill in the gap you see in the radome dryfit pic above; to make it conform properly, I put the milliput in the gap and pressed the radome against the receiving fuselage half, so that it would shape up correctly

radome3

 

It needs refining, of course, but it's already pretty close to the final shape.

 

That's it for the day, all comments welcome

 

Ciao

 

 

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19 hours ago, Spookytooth said:

A lot of refining going on Giemme.

All looking quite nice.

One thing about filler you have to let it cure properly so that you can carve / sand it.

 

Simon.

Thanks Simon :thumbsup: I definitely leave any filler to cure properly before reworking it :) 

17 hours ago, Gene K said:

:penguin:

 

Gene K

Look, the happy penguin is back! :rofl: I know you prefer clean models, this might be the time for me ... :winkgrin:

16 hours ago, bbudde said:

Great, Giorgio! Good work. Cheers

Thanks Bendikt! :thumbsup:

14 hours ago, Harley John said:

Great work. office looks great. 

Thanks John! :thumbsup: 

4 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

She is a bit of a pig but worth it in the end. You’re doing great Giorgio. 🙌

 

Johnny.

Yeah, I kinda missed a kit like this after two Tamiya builds in a row .... :rofl::rofl: 

 

Ciao

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19 hours ago, Massimo said:

Coming along nicely!

Nice detail you've added!!!

Well done Giorgio!!!:like:

Thanks Massimo! :thumbsup:  Good to hear from you! :) 

 

Here's a quick progress report: I completed the IP coaming re-shaping

 

coaming9

 

coaming10

 

I decided to add some detail to it: scribing with the help of Tamiya tape for curves

coaming11

 

and some details from styrene sheet, brass pipes and alu tape

coaming12

 

This is now curing, then it'll be ready for painting. I will add the HUD only once fitted inside the fuselage halves.

 

All comments welcome

 

Ciao

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12 minutes ago, Spookytooth said:

You cannot help yourself though

I'm afraid not, I cannot really... :shrug: :rofl:

Thanks for the appreciation, Simon :thumbsup:

 

Ciao

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Damned sight better now G it is looking superb!

 

Remind me not to pay so much attention to detail on my stuff, I'd never get anything done

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mind you, my stuff would be far more finessed if I did

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6 hours ago, keefr22 said:

Nice sculpting there G, huge improvement on the kit part!

 

K

 

Thanks Keith :thumbsup:  TBH, it wasn't that hard to do better than the kit part ... :devil: :rofl: 

 

6 hours ago, perdu said:

Remind me not to pay so much attention to detail on my stuff, I'd never get anything done

Really? It looks like you pay a lot of attention to details, to me ... and with great results :D :thumbsup: 

Thanks for the appreciation :thumbsup: 

 

Ciao

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3 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

Ah, the INCIDO makes its appearance.

Beautiful details as always Giorgio.

Thanks Cookie :thumbsup:  TBH, it's the second appearance of the INCIDO in this thread already, you've definitely been working too much :winkgrin:  :D Hope all is well with you

 

20 minutes ago, TheBaron said:

:clap2:Mirabile Giorgio.

Way too kind, Antonio "Il Barone"  :thumbsup: 

 

Ciao

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Time for WE progress report, everybody :)

 

I airbrushed Tamiya Flat Black on the IP coaming

 

coaming13

 

then a brushed on Future coat and some drybrush with Lifecolor Dark Grey. Detail painting  again with Lifecolor, except for the HUD projector, where I used a silver lacquer as a base, followed by Tamiya Clear Green - following Simon @Spookytooth's advice but a with a few variations :thumbsup: 

 

coaming14

 

the surrounding red gasket was brush painted with Italeri Flat Insignia Red. The whole IP was then coated with a mix of Italeri Flat and Gloss clear, by brush

coaming15

 

In real life, the clear green I used shows up that way only if hit by direct light - it looks less in your face when using a more diffused light.

 

Before placing the tub inside the fuselage, I wanted to improve the look of the engine heat exchanger exhausts, located at the base of the tail fin, so using my INCIDO and a regular scriber I got this (on top the spare fuselage halves with the original kit representation)

 

 

heatexcexhausts3

 

heatexcexhausts4

 

I then superglued the tub to one fuselage half, inserted a few fishing leads right in front of it and started gluing the two halves together

fuselage1

 

I used Tamiya Green Cap for the job, and for the moment it has only been applied to the front part of the fuselage halves, back to the end of the air brake slot. I'm gluing this per sections because it requires quite some bending and clamping into position, so I want to make sure that each and every section has cured properly before proceeding to the next. This is going to stay like this overnight.

 

That's it for the WE, comments welcome

 

Ciao

Edited by giemme
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