corsaircorp Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 Great gastronomic topic Giorgio indeed !! No beer for me right now, I'm on the roadside... Reading BM in between some interventions !! Nobody's drinking in this kind of work, Is'nt it Bill ?? Do you have some antipasti ?? Sincerely. CC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 4 hours ago, Creepy Pete said: pickled mussels? Really? That's something people eat? I agree, almost as bad as pickled eggs... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 13 hours ago, TheBaron said: I got in through a tunnel. Don't tell the others. I won't Welcome aboard, Tony 12 hours ago, basket said: ...taking a seat as well .😀 Merci monsieur, et bienvenue 11 hours ago, bbudde said: Hello Giorgio, I'm also in here. But with a slight hangover I have to take two or three seats today. maybe in the back row. Hope you don't mind. Cheers Never mind Ben, plenty of time to recover Welcome to you too 10 hours ago, perdu said: sorted OK Giorgio, on with it lad I might as well! 4 hours ago, Creepy Pete said: Hmm, I remember the airbrake being a bit of a pain to make it fit in the closed position. And the windscreen doesn't quite fit either. Otherwise it really isn't too bad. Thanks Pete - I'm aware of the airbrake issue and will have a look at the windscreen But I was actually referring to more info about the cockpit area panel lines: I think I spotted a missing one from a walkaround I saw on PrimePortal, but I was wondering if know more about this. 3 hours ago, corsaircorp said: So a british Typhoon !! I was thinking about an italian one... Sincerely. CC 2 hours ago, perdu said: CC didnt you read Giorgio's intro? He says, and I quote The kit supplied decals allow to build six different versions: two Germans, one Austrian, one British, one Spanish and one Italian, which is the one I'm doing. OK, carry on There's beer to be drunk Thanks Bill, I think it's the McChouffe that got CC this time ... First update will be on in a few minutes, everybody ... Ciao 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 (edited) Better get going with this, right? Today's modelling time went into some dry fit, but first: when I bought this kit - I believe three years ago or so - upon inspecting the content, I noticed the tail fin on both fuselage halves had a prominent warp So I went onto RoG website anc contacted their after sales service for a replacement. I didn't receive any answers, but one month later an envelope arrived to my door and it contained the two fuselage halves replacements. Great customer service! The bad news are that they were just as warped.... Well, I guess I have a paint mule now ... Or a part donor ... wait, too early for that ... Anyway: these are the original halves, they are going to need clamps to be properly glued together right at this point, the instructions will have you to fit the exhaust cones first, followed by the corresponding cans, thus Now I don't like that, I'd rather fit the whole exhausts afterwards, for ease of painting; the way the kit is engineered, though, will force me to put the cans in first, at least. The housing parts need a bit of trimming, though, especially starboard side Next in order of appearance are the bottom wing and two of the pieces composing the intakes and a third one to be fit inside the fuselage halves; this one required some fettling, but the end result is pretty good (or will be, once properly glued) Again following the instructions, the bottom wing needs to be fitted to the fuselage; again some fettling needed, but again a good fit (not Tamiya fit, but what the heck, this kit costed peanuts ) some work needed underneath, but probably not that much if glued properly The intakes aren't that bad I think they are a good basis for some tarting up, on the way back to the compressor faces... Top wings fitted The gap you see in the above pic just shows that the fuselage halves need some spacers inside, to align the mating surfaces properly. Once that is done, the gap should virtually disappear. The radome This will need some filling, starboard side the spine and the ill-fitting airbrake Now I still need to decide if I want to reproduce this airframe in a typical parked configuration, in which the airbrake is closed, as well as the air refueling probe, and the canopy open - or in Air Show mode, where you often see an all-out configuration except for the canopy which is then closed. Ideas, anybody? There's something bothering me about that radome: doesn't it look nose-down a bit? I mean, if you look at this pic form PrimePortal (http://data3.primeportal.net/hangar/mario_bertinelli/ef2000/images/ef2000_64_of_92.jpg) What do you guys think? Comments welcome, as ever Ciao Edited May 5, 2019 by giemme 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creepy Pete Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 I remember that bit about the exhausts. I just used the closed ones during construction, and put in the opened ones afterwards. Sorry, I don't have any more detail at hand about the panels. I just noticed it when placing the decals and the panellines in the instructions didn't match the kit ones. I didn't bother to fix it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 9 hours ago, Creepy Pete said: I remember that bit about the exhausts. I just used the closed ones during construction, and put in the opened ones afterwards. Sorry, I don't have any more detail at hand about the panels. I just noticed it when placing the decals and the panellines in the instructions didn't match the kit ones. I didn't bother to fix it. Thanks anyway. Pete I think I've spotted the missing panel, anyway - BTW, it also shows some very prominent riveting, unlike the rest of the aircraft; you should see it here: http://www.drivefly.it/walkaround/eurofighter-ef-2000-a-typhoon.php it's on the left of the roundel Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gota Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Ah, a build I'll follow I agree with you on the nose, it seems odd. I built an Italeri two seaters a couple years ago and the nose on that one seems closer to the real deal, even though the kit is really basic. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Yep, the nose should be more conical on both sides, although I like the kits layout more.than the real thing. Cheers 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Are the single seater and two seater radomes the same? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 To my (jaded) eye the real radome has a reverse taper on the point rather like that on the Buccaneer A vague memory pattern/wisp suggests 'double ogival' as a name for it but I'm beggared if I know how that got sat in here Another double ogival planform was on the FD2 that was modified with a mini Concorde wing planform ISTR The curve comes back on itself at the front and gives reduced shockwave development* *All that info on the above line came flooding out of my head when I actually considered the issue, maybe I'm less demented than I thought... 😱 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 2 hours ago, gota said: Ah, a build I'll follow I agree with you on the nose, it seems odd. I built an Italeri two seaters a couple years ago and the nose on that one seems closer to the real deal, even though the kit is really basic. Thanks for joining, gota Good to know about the Italeri nose 2 hours ago, bbudde said: Yep, the nose should be more conical on both sides, although I like the kits layout more.than the real thing. Cheers Thanks B, but I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "conical on both sides" ... 2 hours ago, bbudde said: Are the single seater and two seater radomes the same? I guess so.... But anyway, even looking at your pic the kit radom looks different 1 hour ago, perdu said: To my (jaded) eye the real radome has a reverse taper on the point rather like that on the Buccaneer A vague memory pattern/wisp suggests 'double ogival' as a name for it but I'm beggared if I know how that got sat in here Another double ogival planform was on the FD2 that was modified with a mini Concorde wing planform ISTR The curve comes back on itself at the front and gives reduced shockwave development* *All that info on the above line came flooding out of my head when I actually considered the issue, maybe I'm less demented than I thought... 😱 Thanks Bill, but I'm afraid my English is far too poor to fully understand that. But from what I get, I should be expecting a sort of "nose-up" tip rather than the opposite, am I right? Like this Ciao 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 (edited) I thought I got more of the Duxford one but evidently not 🤷🏻♂️ Rob Edited May 6, 2019 by rob85 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 15 minutes ago, giemme said: what you mean by "conical on both sides" . The upper and lower side should be more or less angeld the same to the front. It seems that kits lowe rpart looks a bit too flat and the upper part is moving downwards too far. I heard about of of several Flanker kits having a similar problem on the cones. But I'm not an expert and the shadows on the real photos could also fib you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 57 minutes ago, rob85 said: I thought I got more of the Duxford one but evidently not 🤷🏻♂️ Rob Never mind Rob, still a great pic 35 minutes ago, bbudde said: The upper and lower side should be more or less angeld the same to the front. It seems that kits lowe rpart looks a bit too flat and the upper part is moving downwards too far. I heard about of of several Flanker kits having a similar problem on the cones. But I'm not an expert and the shadows on the real photos could also fib you. Ah, got it now, thanks Ben You are right about the shadows, and that applies to my pics too; I'm gonna take a pic at more or less the same angle of a real AC and see how it looks Ciao 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Cheers, doesn’t help with your rad dome issue as I didn’t get the tip in (where’s @CedB when you need him) shot. But I think you’re right the kit nose looks wrong in my eye and should have more of an upward point to it. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 1 hour ago, giemme said: I'm gonna take a pic at more or less the same angle of a real AC and see how it looks Does this help G (my pic., no copyright issues) K 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 1 hour ago, keefr22 said: Does this help G (my pic., no copyright issues) K It sure does, K, great pic It definitely looks like the real thing doesn't have a "nose down" bend near the tip. I'll take a similar pic of the model to better check, in case it's just a light/shadow effect, but I'm quite skeptical about that ... it means I'll have to try and rework that nose .... Ciao 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Stupid question G, but the kit radome can't be fitted upside down can it? I thought there was a similar problem with a replacement resin nose I had for a Revell Tornado I was building, until I realised I had it on the wrong way round....!! K Forget that, I just noticed the 'cut out' in the starboard side that would prevent it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 2 minutes ago, keefr22 said: Forget that, I just noticed the 'cut out' in the starboard side that would prevent it. You beat me to it Yes, that cutout is where it is hinged to, and it's only starboard. Plus, I have the impression that, just like Benedikt @bbudde says, the real thing should be symmetrical along the horizontal axis Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 On 5/5/2019 at 8:07 AM, TheBaron said: I got in through a tunnel. Don't tell the others. Too late, I followed you in........... Excellent choice Giorgio, I'm definitely in for this one! Terry 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 6 hours ago, giemme said: Thanks for joining, gota Good to know about the Italeri nose Thanks B, but I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "conical on both sides" ... I guess so.... But anyway, even looking at your pic the kit radom looks different Thanks Bill, but I'm afraid my English is far too poor to fully understand that. But from what I get, I should be expecting a sort of "nose-up" tip rather than the opposite, am I right? Like this Ciao Giorgio, what was trying, very badly to say was that the taper starts very sharp but begins to bulge out as it goes back for part of the way then the curve comes back on itself to show a fatter back end Dohhhh forget it Best look at photos and do your own thing 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 (edited) Now I get it Bill, thanks Still, that's not my point about the Typhoon nose. It looks like the very tip of the plastic part is bent down, much like a tapir, if you know what I mean... 1 hour ago, Terry1954 said: Too late, I followed you in........... Excellent choice Giorgio, I'm definitely in for this one! Terry Thanks for joining, Terry Ciao Edited May 6, 2019 by giemme 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 39 minutes ago, giemme said: Now I get it Bill, thanks Still, that's not my point about the Typhoon nose. It looks like the very tip of the plastic part is bent down, much like a tapir, if you know what I mean... Thanks for joining, Terry Ciao Which surely means you have spare plastic to file/sand away from under to make the properly shaped point C'mon make use of the apples you get to make cider You may still need to add more bulk but you do get a decent beginning for it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 29 minutes ago, perdu said: Which surely means you have spare plastic to file/sand away from under to make the properly shaped point Yes, that's one way of fixing it I have considered - still, as you say, I have to check if I actually have enough spare plastic there or if I need to beef it up with Milliput. I will anyway check back on that nose under a different light, before I commit to modifying it. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsaircorp Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Hello Giorgio !! No Mc Chouffe yet !! Just bantering about the choice of the Nationalty !!! It will be great but now you're caught by the typhoon's nose... May be looking for a resin one ?? Sincerely. CC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now