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1/35 Tamiya Matilda


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17 hours ago, diablo rsv said:

I would have a look at the MRP range. A little on the expensive side, but I have used them on all my recent builds and have been really impressed by them. They come airbrush ready and are lacquer based. 

The colours seem alot more accurate to my eye than the AK range. I had the AK paints to do the SCC No1/No2 brown scheme on my Matilda and they were way off where as the MRP paints seem pretty close. I wasn't convinced by their Khaki No3 either.

I'm not too sure about their Caunter range either but looking at Rob's build the Portland Stone doesn't look as bad as I thought.

The down side of MRP is that the lighter colours aren't very opaque and brush painting for touch ups and details is a bit of a no no. 

I have a Vickers light tank that I will finish in the Malta rubble scheme that you did so well on your Matilda so I need to have a look again yours to see how best to accomplish that.

 

Wayne

Hi Wayne......MRP ?

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Well first mask on an the Silver Grey applied. Have to admit a slight mistake in the masking so 1 part that should be portland will be silver grey but overall should still "look" caunter

 

49785299787_81b257701e_b.jpgIMG_20200417_150038 by Robert Worth, on Flickr

 

next mask and slate on tomorrow then unmask. Am sure there will be some overspray that needs attending too but masking wasn't quite as hard as I thought

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Overspray needs to be cleaned up and I really really really need to learn how to airbrush thin coats... I know thinning etc but then it goes all watery

 

 

49788702932_24f8aa9d0f_b.jpgIMG_20200418_134629 by Robert Worth, on Flickr

 

49788386536_d5589cd9d4_b.jpgIMG_20200418_134613 by Robert Worth, on Flickr

 

49787846923_da12d03d84_b.jpgIMG_20200418_134616 by Robert Worth, on Flickr

 

49787846858_0d0b37fc3f_b.jpgIMG_20200418_134622 by Robert Worth, on Flickr

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"Overspray needs to be cleaned up and I really really really need to learn how to airbrush thin coats... I know thinning etc but then it goes all watery"

Looking good Rob.

Have you tried reducing the air pressure? I thin to a milky consistency and spray at around 20psi or less if I'm going in close for details.

Wayne

I should add that I use a fine needle set up on my airbrush, 0.2 or 0.3 I think.

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11 minutes ago, diablo rsv said:

"Overspray needs to be cleaned up and I really really really need to learn how to airbrush thin coats... I know thinning etc but then it goes all watery"

Looking good Rob.

Have you tried reducing the air pressure? I thin to a milky consistency and spray at around 20psi or less if I'm going in close for details.

Wayne

it was about 20psi but unthinned - its AK Interactive so quite thin anyway (might be I am not shaking it well enough which would incraease viscocity and thus the need for thinning...

 

anyway will dull it down with some wethering

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49 minutes ago, robw_uk said:

it was about 20psi but unthinned - its AK Interactive so quite thin anyway (might be I am not shaking it well enough which would incraease viscocity and thus the need for thinning...

 

anyway will dull it down with some wethering

bfdC3Ftl.jpg

 

I assumed you meant these which are really quite thick in the jar and require quite a lot of thinning. Sorry but I'm not really familiar with their other range.  

 

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1 minute ago, diablo rsv said:

bfdC3Ftl.jpg

 

I assumed you meant these which are really quite thick in the jar and require quite a lot of thinning. Sorry but I'm not really familiar with their other range.  

 

nope orange top AK Interactive... the Olive Drab modulation set sprays really nice. The Caunter is OK (mind i am still convinced the nozzle of my airbrush needs replacing as I think it has a slight crack)

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1 hour ago, Hamden said:

 

Matilda looks good Rob, should tidy up quite nicely with a brush

 

  Stay safe           Roger

thanks - and looks perfect on the trailer

 

 

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I think that the pint in the orange top bottles is meant to be ready to spray as it is quite thin.

Nothing wrong with that Rob that a steady hand and a fine brush can't fix.

 

John.

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Hi Rob, looking good!

I've the same caunter set so good to know they work ok. Call me a heathen but I quite miss the old fashioned idea of the caunter scheme with the bright blue...:bandit:

 

Even when spraying the orange top AK paints I'll still thin a little and as for the AK real colour jars, I tried adding some tamiya thinner and Vallejo flow Improver, dont! Spent two hours cleaning crud out of the airbrush, my hunch is the flow Improver didn't agree it but haven't checked yet.

 

Nice work.

 

Atb

Darryl 

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6 minutes ago, Bullbasket said:

I think that the pint in the orange top bottles is meant to be ready to spray as it is quite thin.

Nothing wrong with that Rob that a steady hand and a fine brush can't fix.

 

John.

That was my understanding - have 3rd gen on order for the Type 16 which are meant  to be ideal for straight airbrush OR thin - will see. Am not 100% unhappy with the amount of overspray, I have done worse, its my thick application in the first place - I know that is my airbrush technique but think actually it is broken (lots of spluttering, odd spray pattern even when fully cleaned) so either needs replacing or a new tip & needle

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4 minutes ago, Jasper dog said:

Hi Rob, looking good!

I've the same caunter set so good to know they work ok. Call me a heathen but I quite miss the old fashioned idea of the caunter scheme with the bright blue...:bandit:

 

Even when spraying the orange top AK paints I'll still thin a little and as for the AK real colour jars, I tried adding some tamiya thinner and Vallejo flow Improver, dont! Spent two hours cleaning crud out of the airbrush, my hunch is the flow Improver didn't agree it but haven't checked yet.

 

Nice work.

 

Atb

Darryl 

Thanks, I still know there is damage to the airbrush  (bent needle, cracked tip) so looks like a purchase is needed.

 

Yeah looked at the real colours when I was looking for greys for the Type 16 and decided they were too close to tamiya which I have never had success with - and did read somewhere about using te wrong thinners had disastrous results

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Looking good Rob. Keep at it - it will be worth it in the end. I did a Caunter Matilda years ago using Revell enamels mixed according to Mike Starmer's recipes. I don't think it came out too bad given the standards of the time (heavy drybrushing - remember that!). The pattern is wrong on the rear hull as this was before I had a copy of Mike's booklet on the subject. The advantage of using enamels was that I mixed the colours as brush paints and then thinned small amounts for spraying so I could touch up where the masking wasn't perfect. Ihope you get your paint woes sorted - I suppose it's too late to change direction wrt to paints now?

 

p?i=0b4da4ab26df9f4ac64070b2bd8c3b29

 

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6 hours ago, Jasper dog said:

Hi Rob, looking good!

I've the same caunter set so good to know they work ok. Call me a heathen but I quite miss the old fashioned idea of the caunter scheme with the bright blue...:bandit:

 

Even when spraying the orange top AK paints I'll still thin a little and as for the AK real colour jars, I tried adding some tamiya thinner and Vallejo flow Improver, dont! Spent two hours cleaning crud out of the airbrush, my hunch is the flow Improver didn't agree it but haven't checked yet.

 

Nice work.

 

Atb

Darryl 

The AK Real Colours are lacquer based Darryl, the same as Mr Hobby and require the correct thinner. I use Mr Leveling Thinner with them and they go down really well. The problem with some of them is the colour match.

Normal lacquer or cellulose thinner is great for cleaning out airbrushes.

 

Wayne

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23 hours ago, robw_uk said:

nope orange top AK Interactive... the Olive Drab modulation set sprays really nice. The Caunter is OK (mind i am still convinced the nozzle of my airbrush needs replacing as I think it has a slight crack)

That's a real pain Rob, Can you get a replacement? 

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31 minutes ago, diablo rsv said:

That's a real pain Rob, Can you get a replacement? 

yes, it an H&S so have a .4mm replacement set coming (needle, tip and nozzle)... I could but the entire brush in bits (like Trigger's brush ;for those in the UK of a certain age)

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3 hours ago, diablo rsv said:

The AK Real Colours are lacquer based Darryl, the same as Mr Hobby and require the correct thinner. I use Mr Leveling Thinner with them and they go down really well. The problem with some of them is the colour match.

Normal lacquer or cellulose thinner is great for cleaning out airbrushes.

 

Wayne

Hi Wayne

:doh::doh::doh: How for the love of God hadn't I noticed.....

Just been to check and whilst neither the jar or label say as much a quick sniff confirms....

 

Cell'e thinners it is then, that'll be popular at home.....:whistle:

 

Thanks, (sorry Rob for briefly hijacking your thread!).

Darryl 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Jasper dog said:

Hi Wayne

:doh::doh::doh: How for the love of God hadn't I noticed.....

Just been to check and whilst neither the jar or label say as much a quick sniff confirms....

 

Cell'e thinners it is then, that'll be popular at home.....:whistle:

 

Thanks, (sorry Rob for briefly hijacking your thread!).

Darryl 

 

 

I wouldn't use ordinary cellulose/lacquer thinners for thinning the paints though, it's a bit harsh, best to use Mr.Thinners or Tamiya lacquer thinners.

I probably wouldn't use it without ventilation either. 😜

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4 minutes ago, diablo rsv said:

I wouldn't use ordinary cellulose/lacquer thinners for thinning the paints though, it's a bit harsh, best to use Mr.Thinners or Tamiya lacquer thinners.

I probably wouldn't use it without ventilation either. 😜

 

16 minutes ago, Jasper dog said:

Hi Wayne

:doh::doh::doh: How for the love of God hadn't I noticed.....

Just been to check and whilst neither the jar or label say as much a quick sniff confirms....

 

Cell'e thinners it is then, that'll be popular at home.....:whistle:

 

Thanks, (sorry Rob for briefly hijacking your thread!).

Darryl 

 

 

thats why i only use water based (Vallejo or AK) or low-odour (Mr Colour)  paints. Have 1 pot of Mission Model paints but no thinner - think that needs a more pungent one than the house would allow 😉

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44 minutes ago, diablo rsv said:

I wouldn't use ordinary cellulose/lacquer thinners for thinning the paints though, it's a bit harsh, best to use Mr.Thinners or Tamiya lacquer thinners.

I probably wouldn't use it without ventilation either. 😜

 

39 minutes ago, robw_uk said:

 

thats why i only use water based (Vallejo or AK) or low-odour (Mr Colour)  paints. Have 1 pot of Mission Model paints but no thinner - think that needs a more pungent one than the house would allow 😉

As of late I've only used acrylic for the very reason of low odour, fumes etc, when I got the ak real colour I hadn't even realised they might have lacquer based. I do recall years ago using humbrol and xtracolour enamel thinned with automotive cellulose thinners and they sprayed and dried so well......even enabled fine mottling on 1/48 luftwaffe types.  Happy days!:frantic:

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