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Aeroclub 1/72 Gloster Gamecock


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On ‎5‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 11:47 PM, Terry1954 said:

A quick update. A little bit of work on re-applying the "stitching" on the two sides of the panel where definition was poor. I used a variation of the method suggested by @TheBaron and instead of using a hot needle, I covered the micro strip  in liquid cement and then after a few seconds used the blade of my razor saw to press into the softened strip. I think it worked ok.

 

Terry

 

Hi Terry

I'm intrigued, what is this micro strip and where can I buy it?

I have a simmilar issue as you and your solution seems to work a treat.

 

/Johan

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7 hours ago, flarpen said:

Hi Terry

I'm intrigued, what is this micro strip and where can I buy it?

I have a simmilar issue as you and your solution seems to work a treat.

Hi Johan,

 

I used Slaters Micro rod (strip is the flatter version).

 

20190527_144513

 

I think I got mine from a supplier on ebay, but I noticed the sell it here also:

 

https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=603&name=slater-s-plastic-rod-0-010-12-pack&Itemid=189&category_pathway=4017

 

You can get thicker lengths but I think this one is the thinest available.

 

Hope that helps

 

Terry

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very pleased to find these in the post this morning. Many thanks to @Moa for pointing me at these.

 

20190610_121158

 

Compared to my experience with the Kora resin Mk.82 Snakeyes (see the WIP on the Iranian F-5E), these are some of the most delightful and incredibly detailed bits of resin I have seen. Judge for yourself, and bear in mind this builds up into 1/72 Bristol Jupiter engine. The M-22 seems to be the designation given to the licence produced versions in Russia, which according to references I have seen were the most numerous produced of the Jupiter production centres/versions.

 

20190610_121402 20190610_121458

 

So now the dilemma is two fold:

 Firstly in any case, I would have to chop off the existing engine which came with the kit. Not a difficult task really, but secondly I would then need to install this version and although the cylinders themselves would be clearly visible, that beautiful central hub area will not be. I would also need to construct some sort of "cowling" through which each of the nine cylinders will protrude.

 

I'm considering all options still, and may actually proceed to paint up and detail the existing one first, to see how good/bad it looks, then make my decision.

 

It would also help if I could lay me hands on some decent close up views of the engine and nose area of the Gamecock. This is proving difficult, so if anyone can help on that, I'd be very grateful.

 

To think this was going to be another one of those quick OOB builds ..................

 

Terry

 

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As Stuart says, a bit of a dilemma awaits. If you don't have anything else to use it on, then I would be tempted to do the switch because the cylinder detail is fantastic and will be visible, and the engine is crying out to be built!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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5 hours ago, Hamden said:

 

Don't know if this site is of any use to your build

http://www.jetagemuseum.btck.co.uk/Aircraft/GlosterGamecock

 

They may have some helpful information

 

  Roger

Thanks Roger. Gloucester is an easy day trip from down here, so might call them and pay them a visit. Get a look at the thing close up.

 

3 hours ago, Courageous said:

As to your options, let's hope it doesn't create a dilemma and the poor Gamecock heads towards THAT shelf.

THAT shelf is a bit crowded at the moment, but it is reducing in numbers as the completed models roll off the production line. F-5E soon, then maybe a small surprise...........

 

1 hour ago, AdrianMF said:

and the engine is crying out to be built!

I agree Adrian. It looks like well in excess of 100 types used it, quite a few of which are available as models. It would even make a splendid miniature freestanding model in its own right!

 

The Raresin example gives you 12 pots so there are 3 spare. I'm seriously considering casting 6 more from the set and using those on the model. After all that is all you can see.

 

More thought needed and a visit to the replica in Gloucester!

 

Terry

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1 hour ago, Terry1954 said:

Gloucester is an easy day trip from down here, so might call them and pay them a visit. Get a look at the thing close up.

 

My daughter lives quite close at present(moving soon) and has visited the museum, she found the staff very helpful.

 

  Roger

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2 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

Raresin example gives you 12 pots so there are 3 spare. I'm seriously considering casting 6 more from the set

Nah, buy two more and then you have 9 spare cylinders for this and you can scratch build an Argosy for the other three engines...

 

Simples!

Adrian

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13 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

Nah, buy two more and then you have 9 spare cylinders for this and you can scratch build an Argosy for the other three engines...

Hmmmmm ............... that's not a bad idea..............🤔

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Yes, I saw that they were Jaguars. But as you say, they would look good on the Fokker Trimotor and you can get (several) models of that!

 

Terry

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50 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

 

There was a Fokker VII trimotor variant with Jupiters, but it isn't funny now...

 

 

Only the single-engined F-VIIa version had a Jupiter engine.  The trimotors used 3 less powerful engines.

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Some good new and some not so good news on the Gamecock. I decided to press on and see how the engine would look painted up, before deciding whether to remove it completely and build in the new superior resin job.

 

After some further clean up and a quick coat of Alclad Dark Aluminium the detail didn't look so bad on the cylinders, especially if I also gave them a quick wash of black. So thats good.........

 

20190614_213724 20190614_213743

 

However, you will notice in the first shot above some crazing of the paint behind on the upper cowling. A brutal close up:

 

20190614_213712

 

Not really sure what caused this except it might be a reaction to some new red Acrylic filler I have been using, which so far has proved excellent to apply and shape/sand. Maybe Alclad and some Acrylics don't mix?

 

It should clean up ok, so we'll see where we get with that. 

 

More soon

 

Terry

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2 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

Some good new and some not so good news on the Gamecock. I decided to press on and see how the engine would look painted up, before deciding whether to remove it completely and build in the new superior resin job.

 

After some further clean up and a quick coat of Alclad Dark Aluminium the detail didn't look so bad on the cylinders, especially if I also gave them a quick wash of black. So thats good.........

 

 

 

However, you will notice in the first shot above some crazing of the paint behind on the upper cowling. A brutal close up:

 

20190614_213712

 

Not really sure what caused this except it might be a reaction to some new red Acrylic filler I have been using, which so far has proved excellent to apply and shape/sand. Maybe Alclad and some Acrylics don't mix?

 

It should clean up ok, so we'll see where we get with that. 

 

More soon

 

Terry

 

Pft.

Nothing that a good hammer won't cure.

 

But seriously, some sanding and airbrushed primer and reapplication of the color should do. Alclad is a Lacquer as you know and sometimes things happen (especially if applied heavily), I had similar boo-boos a couple times applying on enamel and primers (rattle-can type). Could it be not enough drying time for the base?

Sail on.

 

 

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9 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

Not really sure what caused this

It's caused by lack of proximity to a Prop&Jet resin engine I believe Terry. Until one is fitted, it's doubtful that any paint will in fact adhere to the aircraft at all.

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13 hours ago, Moa said:

 

Pft.

Nothing that a good hammer won't cure.

 

But seriously, some sanding and airbrushed primer and reapplication of the color should do. Alclad is a Lacquer as you know and sometimes things happen (especially if applied heavily), I had similar boo-boos a couple times applying on enamel and primers (rattle-can type). Could it be not enough drying time for the base?

Sail on.

 

 

The base coat had been applied many days before, so I doubt it was that. It's polished out now and a light coat of Alclad gloss undercoat seems to have done the trick. 

 

7 hours ago, TheBaron said:

It's caused by lack of proximity to a Prop&Jet resin engine I believe Terry. Until one is fitted, it's doubtful that any paint will in fact adhere to the aircraft at all.

Ah, I see. I'd never considered that............. nice try Tony!

 

That might well be the final route, but I need to get a closer look at the Gamecocks cowling and how the pots sit within it first.

 

Thanks

 

Terry

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I managed to sort the crazing seen in the earlier pictures with a good rob down and polish, then some Alclad gloss white primer. A few more areas to clean up that way as well

 

20190615_171322 20190615_171312

 

Next it was time to give those cylinders some washes and some highlights, just to see how they came up. The results are quite pleasing to me at least. See what you think.........

 

20190617_141737 20190617_141757 20190617_141818 20190617_141848 20190617_141924

 

So far, this might work, although  those of you out there who are egging me on to use the replacement resin engine, and all of the challenges that could give in the form of a new cowling that fitted round the pots and neatly matched the fuselage pylon, may well be disappointed. I think that engine will be saved for a future build, maybe even a scratch build, if I can ever get my skills close to the likes of @Moa and others. I'm planning to paint and dry fit the exhausts and manifold to see exactly how the whole thing might then look before the final decision on the engine.

 

So we now have this, complete with a couple of tailplanes.

 

20190617_141720

 

 

More soon

 

Terry

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18 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

may well be disappointed. 

Oh contraire Terry! 

Fully agree with Moa that this looks absolutely fine. Excellent paintworking on those engine cylinders. :thumbsup2:

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11 hours ago, Moa said:

I don't believe there is a need to replace it.

 

55 minutes ago, TheBaron said:

Fully agree with Moa that this looks absolutely fine

I rest my case gentlemen!

 

Thanks both for your very valued encouragement. Work will continue on the current assumption that these will not be replaced.

 

I've a feeling I will need to resort to some Baron like practices when it comes to the cabane struts, and possibly even the main inter wing struts - BRASS!

 

Fortunately I still have a small stock of this stuff, given to me some years ago by a very good friend, who is incidentally now one other than our UK IPMS Membership secretary, well done John.

 

20181105_101332

 

I don't believe you can get this any longer, so this is all I have, but should last me a few more 1/72 builds. The brass itself comes in assorted widths but the key is that it is perfectly aerofoil shaped. Excellent for the job. Both my Sedbergh and T31 benefitted from this stuff.

 

More soon

 

Terry

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6 hours ago, Marklo said:

I used a resin engine and literally spent weeks working on it ad the cowl and although it looks well it was a lot of hassle.

Thanks for your compliment Markio. I reckon I understand your efforts on that cowl as its such an awkward shape to fabricate around the cylinder pots. I wanted to avoid what you achieved, as in 1/72 it would be a lot of work, and this is supposed to be a quick build.

 

Incidentally, I have found pictures of the Gamecock both with and without the front part of the cowling, more commonly without it seems, as many show the exhausts and the ring manifold exposed, as mine will be.

 

Terry

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