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1/72 Airfix Spitfire IIa Zoom!


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Hi All

 

Something simple to be getting on with, the ubiquitous 1/72 Airfix Spitfire I/IIa

DSCF7957.jpg

 

Should have been easy enough, but I found an Eduard Zoom SA set, and a second canopy

DSCF7958.jpg

 

And as I feel it a bit wasteful to apply etch to an interior you can't see, I'm going to hack the two canopies apart to make one open one. And open the door too.

 

Simples.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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Hi All

 

The stock internals, with faithfully reproduced ejection pin marks

DSCF7959.jpg

 

Most of this will go, either replaced with PE or just by accident.

 

The canopy is very nice though, clear and discrete sprue gates on the framing

DSCF7960.jpg

 

It is a tad chunky

DSCF7962.jpg

 

But it's a great fit, clicks into the body without glue or gaps

DSCF7961.jpg

 

Completely acceptable for an OOB, almost seems a shame to butcher it.

 

But that's not why it's in The Lab.

 

Breathe in

DSCF7963.jpg

 

And breathe out again

DSCF7964.jpg

 

Did I say how much I love that saw?

 

Thso, front and rear parts still fit as intended, the sliding part not so.

DSCF7966.jpg

 

I have the start of a cunning plan that could well end in the purchase of a replacement body.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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Hi All

 

14 hours ago, Bedders said:

If you see Spitfires as a big part of your future, you could opt for a Falcon Spitfire Special vacform canopy set. All the Spitfire canopies you'll ever need.  https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/FNCV4172 (other retailers are available).

 

Justin

Hi Justin, thanks for the info, they certainly seem to have all the bases covered. I'll see how this one goes...

 

 

Anyhoo, chopped!

DSCF7967.jpg

 

Sitting at about the right place?

 

The canopy thickness doesn't look too bad now

DSCF7968.jpg

 

And the internal will just need smoothing off

DSCF7969.jpg

 

I was going to adapt the cut off pieces and rear window to fit back inside the canopy, but their thickness would take up most of the room.

 

I'm erring towards a piece of clear acetate arched internally, masked off for the rear window section.

 

You never know, I may be back to Hannants yet!

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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Hi All

 

This might work?

DSCF7972.jpg

 

DSCF7973.jpg

 

The proof of the pudding will be in the painting.

 

A bit more saw action and the door pops off

DSCF7974.jpg

 

I'm going to thin down the door and those walls a touch, but I think I might get away with it.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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Hi Steve,

 

If it were me, I might scratch the door out of thin styrene sheet and rod.

 

Love the sit of the sliding hood, btw.

 

Regards

 

Martin

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On 5/5/2019 at 11:48 PM, ProfSparks said:

This might work?

Works for me Steve, just mask it paint it before you put the sliding canopy on and you'll be good to go.

21 hours ago, mike romeo said:

If it were me, I might scratch the door out of thin styrene sheet and rod.

I agree Martin.

 

Stuart

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If you came this far, why don‘t you go all the way and use a vacform canopy - at least for the sliding part? It looks sooo much better and really isn‘t that much work. Rob Taurus makes nice things, or any other set specified for this kit!

 

Great job so far BTW!

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Hi All

 

A brief encounter with The Lab!

 

 

On 5/6/2019 at 10:04 AM, mike romeo said:

If it were me, I might scratch the door out of thin styrene sheet and rod.

 

On 5/7/2019 at 6:55 PM, Stromness said:

If you came this far, why don‘t you go all the way and use a vacform canopy - at least for the sliding part?

Hi guys, well, the thing is, I'd love to scratch the door and use a vacform canopy (they're beautiful, it would really set it off), but this is a voyage into the Curious Zone.

 

So far it's cost me less than a pint, and anyway I need something to do a bit of homework on before committing to a proper build.

 

I'm still at the stage of "everything's a mule" and am poking my abilities with a blunt stick to see what happens.

 

I've a list and a small stash to work my way through once my chops are firm, but 'til then anything's fair game!

 

 

Anyhoo, on with the poking...

 

The Zoom set back plate should be glued on before drilling out the frame holes, or this will happen

DSCF7976.jpg

Also those pedals are removed and replaced with etch, though there's scant area for attachment

 

The IP is a good fit (there's more of it to add)

DSCF7978.jpg

 

But it needs to be fettled in for the fuselage halves to close

DSCF7977.jpg

 

Also, it locates as the original Airfix part, but isn't anywhere near as bulky

DSCF7979.jpg

Packing will be added to bring it out parallel

 

There's some particularly small bits of etch

DSCF7980.jpg

 

Should be ok once they're glued out of sight.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

After much breath holding, tiny part pinging, and general purpose Thesaurus raiding, most of the Zoom is in

DSCF7984.jpg

 

DSCF7985.jpg

 

The IP will be fettled in once I've my Chi back.

 

I'm leaving the seat, harness and gunsight off because I'll only have to replace them when I destroy them in the sanding/ painting stages.

 

MUST remember the control column too.

 

I have come to the conclusion that this Self Adhesive stuff is a bit of a double edged sword.

It does stick well to tweezers, pins, toothpicks, and just about anything else you're using to put it in position with, then usually refuses to stick to the intended surface.

If it does adhere, then any attempt to slide it into a better position is countered with an inextolerable creep back to the initial landing site.

The homing glue also provides an effective barrier to CA. Wondrous stuff indeed.

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm thankful for the increased detail it adds, but my admiration for those of you who can wrangle decent forms from it has increased beyond measure.

 

I'm off to find an OOB (Out Of Bottle) diversion.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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Hi All

 

Incremental progress. I sanded the door down until I could just about see through it

DSCF7987.jpg

The ribs are a bit thick but I can live with them all things considered.

 

I roughed up a rear frame for the internals, and the wings just clip on, so it's looking promising for the Filler Fairy

DSCF7989.jpg

 

I have, however, realised that I need to install the seat and harness before the rear canopy part, as the harness passes through the slot in the PE behind the seat.

 

And yeah, I know the IP hasn't gone far enough into the cowling.

 

Next one will.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

That Eduard Zoom etch really busies up the office

DSCF7997.jpg

 

DSCF7998.jpg

 

DSCF7999.jpg

 

That gap is just slightly too wide to fill comfortably, I'll see if I can shave some thickness from the interior wall and squeeze it in tighter...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What followed involved a catastrophic misalignment of the fuselage halves, resulting in them suddenly collapsing in on themselves, crushing the cockpit.

 

I put it down carefully and walked away for a while.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a cup of tea and some controlled breathing exercises later, I forlornly untwisted the IP and reattached the seat, control column and compass.

 

There are some small PE parts missing presumed Snaffled, but at least it resembles what it was.

 

 

That, and I didn't smash it to bits.

 

 

 

 

 

Good stuff this Therapy, best I've had.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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Hi All

 

21 hours ago, Sturmovik said:

I can't see the photos past the one with the fuselage gap.

Hi, yeah, sorry, I sort of vented my spleen on them and they were no more

 

However, I decided to take the seat out again to fit the harness

DSCF8009.jpg

 

Those little strap bits were like Mexican Jumping Beans. Fortunately they happened to jump into a couple of blobs of CA and that's where they're staying.

 

I plan to feed the strap through the bulkhead and bend it down once the seat is fixed back in again again.

 

Then I can get it closed up and the wings on!

 

What could possibly go wrong?

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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Hi All

 

On 5/19/2019 at 9:26 PM, ProfSparks said:

What could possibly go wrong?

Well, it's like this

 

I looked at the seat harness too suddenly, and the harness just popped off its' CA anchor.

 

In retrospect, that wasn't a totally bad thing, as I could now fit the seat sans harness and feed in the pre-shaped PE once the seat was secure.

 

Simples.

 

DSCF8012.jpg

 

Yes folks, when adding the small plate of PE on the framing behind the seat, make sure the slot for the harness is above the seat backrest, or it gets quite tricky.

 

It's in now and I've just noticed there's a rudder pedal missing. And so it shall stay missing.

 

DSCF8013.jpg

 

Closing it up a section at a time, just as well it's an easy kit.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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Hi All

 

As luck would have it, the incrementally wider section forward of the too wide IP makes the wing root join very snug

DSCF8016.jpg

 

I suspect it may have knocked out the dihedral by a degree or two (five?), but at this stage I'm just pleaded the whole thing hasn't imploded again.

 

At least the nose join looks smooth from here!

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

 

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Hi All

 

I fitted the rear cover and made a mask from the kit window

DSCF8018.jpg

 

The front and sliding sections were masked and the door held in with Blu Tak sausages

DSCF8020.jpg

 

Time to get this moved on, undersides and fuselage band done with Vallejo Air 71.302 Sky Type S straight from the bottle, no primer

DSCF8021.jpg

 

Smoother than I thought.

 

Apart from that, I've just discovered that it didn't come with decals, so I may have to shelve it until I come across roundels.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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Hi All

 

I got the underside masked and started on the uppers.

 

Normally I'd start with the light (brown) then add the dark (green) as dark covers over light better (right?)

 

However, as an Experiment I put the dark on first, cue Vallejo Air 71.324 BS Dark Green

DSCF8038.jpg

(It's still slightly wet here)

 

It looks slightly yellowy limey, we'll see how it dries.

 

Having dried, time for the sausages (still a slightly unnerving shade)

DSCF8040.jpg

 

On with the Vallejo Air 71.323 BS Dark Earth and off with the masking

DSCF8041.jpg

 

DSCF8042.jpg

 

The green still shows through in the panel lines, I'm going to go for a pin wash once decals are sourced and applied.

 

But for now, it's glossy varnished

DSCF8044.jpg

 

It has its' remaining parts matted

DSCF8043.jpg

 

And it's all bagged  up

DSCF8045.jpg

 

This is not a Shelf Of Doom inmate, just a hiatus.

 

 

Comments and suggestions on generic roundel decal sheets welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

 

Now then, where was I?

DSCF8148.jpg

 

Ah yes, I found a donor so it's back on

DSCF8149.jpg

 

They went straight on and had a coat of W&N matt

DSCF8166.jpg

 

Now for the raison d'être, or the eating of the raisin if you prefer

 

Masks and bits removed

DSCF8167.jpg

 

And it's more or less worked out ok!

DSCF8169.jpg

 

DSCF8171.jpg

 

DSCF8172.jpg

 

Door just 'Tack'd on, will tidy up the paintwork and get it in for a RFI session.

 

 

Thanks for all the company on this 'Doing things the hard way' experiment, see you on my next common sense bypass.

 

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

Steve

 

 

RFI here

 

 

 

Edited by ProfSparks
added RFI
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