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Revell 1/72 Boeing B17G Flying Fortress


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Revell B17 I'm going to try and do this as a cutaway model, first thing I notice(planes are not my normal thing) checking on photos of the real thing the callout colourwise for the bomb bay (which is the first part on the instructions is wrong) it says the bombs are olive green which is what I've done them and when I look at pics of the bombs they are a medium green not the nearly black as you can see from the pics, the olive green I've done them (I'm using Vallejo air paints ) also they have yellow banding which seems to vary according to which picture you look at, some have 3 bands in the middle some have one in the middle others have one at the tip and a silver tip in front of that. I wouldn't normally worry too much about that but if I'm doing this as a cutaway it needs to be more accurate, help please.

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I wouldn't worry too much about the bombs, but for a B-17G, the nose, bomb bay and radio room should be natural metal. The nose and cockpit were covered in green, quilted fabric insulation ( often removed ) with exposed metal areas in these locations being dull dark green ( similar to British Racing Green ). Don't look at any restorations as reference, as almost all are painted inside. There are some good colour wartime photos around the net that show the Dull Dark Green and natural metal.

Cockpit interior showing the quilted insulation and dull dark green colour -  https://media.defense.gov/2006/Oct/20/2000539497/780/780/0/061020-F-1234P-001.JPG

Also, as you approach the finishing, don't paint four dirty streaks out of each vent in the wing upper surface. It's a very common mistake, but they are vents to exit air from the wing and carry oil and staining away from the wing at this location. Overflow from the engine oil breather, and other dirt and much from the engine and exhaust collector ring gets blown back along the nacelles and wing and remains in contact with the wing between the vents. Due to airflow, prop wash, prop rotation and airframe shape, these dirt marks tend to be straight on the port wing, but curve in towards the fuselage on the starboard wing,

 

This page shows the staining on the wing upper surface very well.
http://www.daveswarbirds.com/b-17/tail3.htm

Edited by Army_Air_Force
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2 hours ago, Army_Air_Force said:

I wouldn't worry too much about the bombs, but for a B-17G, the nose, bomb bay and radio room should be natural metal. The nose and cockpit were covered in green, quilted fabric insulation ( often removed ) with exposed metal areas in these locations being dull dark green ( similar to British Racing Green ). Don't look at any restorations as reference, as almost all are painted inside. There are some good colour wartime photos around the net that show the Dull Dark Green and natural metal.

Cockpit interior showing the quilted insulation and dull dark green colour -  https://media.defense.gov/2006/Oct/20/2000539497/780/780/0/061020-F-1234P-001.JPG

Also, as you approach the finishing, don't paint four dirty streaks out of each vent in the wing upper surface. It's a very common mistake, but they are vents to exit air from the wing and carry oil and staining away from the wing at this location. Overflow from the engine oil breather, and other dirt and much from the engine and exhaust collector ring gets blown back along the nacelles and wing and remains in contact with the wing between the vents. Due to airflow, prop wash, prop rotation and airframe shape, these dirt marks tend to be straight on the port wing, but curve in towards the fuselage on the starboard wing,

 

This page shows the staining on the wing upper surface very well.
http://www.daveswarbirds.com/b-17/tail3.htm

 

Why was the quilted fabric insulation often removed? Fire or... ?

 

Cheers / André

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Hi all bit more done to this, trying out some aluminium foil on the inside to see the effect before I try it on the outside, i must say I think it looks quite good.

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Hi all well made more progress on the interior, loads more to do (there's a lot of detail in this kit) I'm wondering wether to add some lighting to the internals, its quite dark even without adding the side with the cut outs in.

Done some of the exterior paint ( not my best work as I'm using a brush since my compressor is dead)

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Is there any way of getting rid of the white stuff you get with superglue, I ask because I'm trying to do the belly turret on the plane which is moulded in clear I'm using Revell clear glue and it just keeps coming apart when I'm handling it whilst trying to paint it (incidentally how do you manage that it's almost impossible I've had to take it off a load of times as the paint seeps under the masking tape and my hands arnt steady enough to do it free hand) anyway i was thinking of gluing it with superglue if I could get rid of the white vapour stuff you get with it.

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9 minutes ago, kpnuts said:

Is there any way of getting rid of the white stuff you get with superglue, I ask because I'm trying to do the belly turret on the plane which is moulded in clear I'm using Revell clear glue and it just keeps coming apart when I'm handling it whilst trying to paint it (incidentally how do you manage that it's almost impossible I've had to take it off a load of times as the paint seeps under the masking tape and my hands arnt steady enough to do it free hand) anyway i was thinking of gluing it with superglue if I could get rid of the white vapour stuff you get with it.

I recommend you to glue the clear parts to plastic using the Super Thin Cement, then mask the canopy - only in this order. I use this technique a lot and it’s very easy. The second approach is to use a clear glue (Revell, Tamiya) and not apply it with a supplied thick brush, but with a toothpick or a needle. Unfortunately, the superglue is not the best solution for the clear parts: I ruined the canopies on my Huey build with it.

 

Feel free to ask a questions - we’re all learning here! 🤝

Edited by Nikolay Polyakov
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A couple of things that may help with the clear parts, if you want to use 'superglue' (cyanoacrylate - CA) adhesives.  Dip the clear parts in Future/Pledge Floor Care/whatever clear acrylic floor polish you have available in your area and let it dry overnight.  The clear acrylic provides a barrier between the fumes from the CA and the plastic.  You should remove the Future from the edges you're gluing, but just from the edges.  Second thing is to find one of the 'non-fuming' types of CA that are available on the market.  They're usually labeled as 'For Clear Parts.'  Hope this helps.

 

Steve

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Now and then I "glue" clear parts with just Future/Johnson Clear. Usually doing this with the Airfix P-51D canopy. I dipp the canopy in future and put it in place on top of the frame and just letting it dry...

 

Cheers / André

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Hi all well I've finished the interior and closed it up, trying foil on the silver part of it I figure doing the panels individually may look more realistic (that remains to be seen)

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Let me tell you foiling something like this is no easy task, it's only that I think it looks ok that I'm continuing (put me off planes again) the bit where the wings connect was a real pita (Still not that happy with it) can't see how to make it better, I'm hoping the wings will be easier.

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There's a lot of detail on the inside of the clear parts which I can't see the point of since when painted you can't see it (I suppose it's another part of building planes) I was really looking forward to the 1/24 Airfix mosquito (was going to ask for it as a birthday prezzie) 

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Well I'm definitely not going to be any good at planes (will stick to genres I'm more in tune with) (what I don't understand is why planes are so difficult)

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