(beginner) Decal doesn't stick, and is the black part normal?

[notflip]

Hi Everyone,

 

Building my very first model here, and trying to place my very first decal. 

I put the decal in water for about 1.5 minutes, until it started moving on the blue paper, I got it off, put it on the part you see underneath in the picture.

After a few minutes I could still move the decal, it's not sticking at all, and it looked a bit 'fake' with the black on the background, or is that supposed to come off?

[JosephLalor]

Looks like you're doing a Spitfire there.  The decal you're showing here is of the standard British blind-flying instrument section and represents black dials with white bezels against a black panel.  Maybe the decal adhesive's a bit lacking.  If you haven't any decal setting solutions but have some varnish you could use that for bedding it down. 

[bentwaters81tfw]

Always apply decals to gloss paint to prevent 'silvering' when air gets trapped underneath.  You will have a problem setting that to settle onto such a contoured surface. You may need a setting solution as Joseph says.

[notflip]

Just now, bentwaters81tfw said:

Always apply decals to gloss paint to prevent 'silvering' when air gets trapped underneath.  You will have a problem setting that to settle onto such a contoured surface. You may need a setting solution as Joseph says.

I wonder why the put all the effort in the cockpit panel details when I have to slap a sticker over it..

I'm thinking about just coloring in some of the dials, the sticker doesn't look realistic at all.. There's an even bigger sticker that goes over the other parts as well.

45 minutes ago, JosephLalor said:

Looks like you're doing a Spitfire there.  The decal you're showing here is of the standard British blind-flying instrument section and represents black dials with white bezels against a black panel.  Maybe the decal adhesive's a bit lacking.  If you haven't any decal setting solutions but have some varnish you could use that for bedding it down. 

Thanks Joseph, I do find it very unrealistic, the paper isn't mat and I lose all the nice detail in the panel, are there ways to make this look more real?

[bentwaters81tfw]

You could go the advanced route. Apply the decal to a piece of thin plastic card, then drill and file out the instrument panel, and place the decal behind it.

Many aftermarket cockpits use this method.

[notflip]

9 minutes ago, bentwaters81tfw said:

You could go the advanced route. Apply the decal to a piece of thin plastic card, then drill and file out the instrument panel, and place the decal behind it.

Many aftermarket cockpits use this method.

That might be to advanced for my first model haha. I'll just try and slap it on with some PVA glue, that should do the trick right?

[bentwaters81tfw]

Worth a try. We learn by degrees. Ive only been doing this for about 60 years.

[JosephLalor]

Good suggestion from bentwaters81tfw.  For myself  I'll sometimes apply a decal over a detailed panel, using Klear to soften the decal and make it conform to the detail.  That may work if the decal has a similar level of detail.  The panel in your kit is clearly a simpler affair, making for a bland result.  I take it that there are two decals for the IP, one for the main panel and the previously shown one for the blind flying panel.

 

I didn't learn how to properly apply waterslide transfers until at least my second kit.

Edited April 18, 2019 by JosephLalor

[Troy Smith]

4 minutes ago, notflip said:

I'll just try and slap it on with some PVA glue, that should do the trick right?

can do, try using a hot damp cloth to press down, the heat can soften the decal.

 

Also worth stating the kit and manufacturer, not all decals are the same, or behave in the same way. 

[Steve Noble]

I'd just use a punch and die set and punch out the actual dials only and then fit them into the instrument pinnacles. It looks much better and it's easier. You can them put a drop of clear into the dials to represent the glass..

[Stalker6Recon]

On 4/18/2019 at 9:53 PM, notflip said:

I do find it very unrealistic,

I am a new guy as well, my last build was in the 80's, so basically I am starting from scratch, everything has changed since then.

 

That said, I have seen these decals on other models setting down into the details and look very real once the finishing touches and matte/flat final coat is applied. Using a setting solution (microset/microsol) is often required for decals over high relief details. There are ways to add "glass" to the dials as well, which really brings the cockpit to life. I can't remember the exact process, but one of these very knowledgeable and helpful gents will be happy to steer you in the right direction.

 

I realize that this build is probably finished, but the information will be helpful into the future. Welcome to the modeling world as well!

 

Anthony

[Timbo88]

I use Revell DecalSoft for my decals. Paint some on the instrument panel, put the decal on top, another dab of DecalSoft and leave alone, it should shrink down over most contours. It helps if the instrument panel is gloss of course, so a coat of varnish or trusty old Klear sorts that nicely. 

No single way of doing it to be honest. It's taken me years to find methods that I feel comfortable with, in all aspects of model making. 

All I would say though is persevere and don't take it all to seriously, or think there is a 'perfect' way of doing things. It's meant to be an enjoyable hobby!