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Spraying Klear


Sharknose

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Evening. 

 

I was considering buying  a cheap 0.5mm airbrush to put coats on models,  have the UK version of Klear,  I don't want to ruin my H&S ultra,  so was thinking of picking up something <30 notes. Does Klear spray ok, does it need thinning, with water? Or????

 

Cheers,

Sharky

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A while ago I decided I wanted a more ‘industrial and simple’ airbrush for primers and the like I first looked at the Chinese knock off market for a simple 0.5mm model.  Couldn’t find any, they were either smaller or packed with whistles and bells and supplied with three nozzle/needle sets.  Not quite what I wanted, but I bought one that was a copy of an Iwata HP and came with 0.2, 0.3 and 0.5 needles, thinking I would just use the 0.5mm.  Cost about £20 and it was dreadful.  To be fair the 0.2 and 0.3 setups were okay but the 0.5 was leaking and splattering all over the place.  The main culprit, I believe was poor o-rings, something I sort if proved after airbrush wax improved the situation.  But I decided I couldn’t be bothered with the temperamental nature so got a refund - they didn’t want the brush back which shows how cheap these things really must be.

 

So I decided that time is too precious to be faffing about so decided to splash out and spend £50 on a sparmax 125.  Okay, over twice the price but the reassurance that it will work when you need it is worth it.

 

Now I don’t want to totally bad mouth Chinese knock offs  - my first dual action internal mix was a copy of an Iwata revolution.  Works pretty well to be honest - not quite as good as an Iwata but not far off.  The problem with the knock offs is the lack of quality control, you can get a good one, you can get a bad one, it is a  lottery.  So they have their place, and great for those strapped for cash, but for me, I decided the uncertainty wasn’t worth the money saved.

 

There is an old adage - buy cheap, buy twice.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

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I've had cheap airbrushes that were useless and others that were quite adequate. One of the clones cost £30 and was as good as my Iwata HPC+ (at £175) so sometimes its just luck of the draw.

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Hi

I recently ran the Lakeland Quick Shine product (https://www.lakeland.co.uk/20286/Quick-Shine-Floor-Finish-800ml) undiluted through my H&W Ultra with no problem.  As Ratch says flush through and clean with airbrush cleaner.  I was a little lax doing that and found the next time I used the airbrush that the pull back action was not working.  There was some dried polish on the needle that a wipe with airbrush cleaner resolved.

Cheers

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  • 2 months later...
4 hours ago, Twobyfour said:

I've had a cheap Iwata clone for years, 0.3 needle, it sprays Klear very nicely at 15-18 psi.

Any chance you could post a few pictures and show what kind of results you're getting?

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From my experience, once you get over the initial "Klear Fear" (c) it's just like any other paint to spray.  Start off with drier coats, as any finger prints or touch marks on the model might show these up, then start putting wet-on-wet coats on as you get close to the shine you want.  It's also an acrylic, so no more "bad" for your airbrush than any acrylic, and just as easy to remove if you stuff up and leave it for weeks (I do this, to my shame), or don't clean it well enough.  I've run it through Iwatas, H&S Infinities & various Gunze brushes (which are awesome BTW), and none have been affected adversely :yes:

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5 hours ago, azureglo said:

Any chance you could post a few pictures and show what kind of results you're getting?

20190624_203213

 

 

Over Alclad 2

20190624_203046

 

Over Tamiya XF.  Photographed this in harsh light for you to show what happens when the pressure is too high 20psi+, a texured effect, similar to Tamiya X22.

20190624_202923

 

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