Lord Riot Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Options to do an early version would be good too. I reckon all the kit would need to cover all FAW marks would be a separate shorter and longer nose, and three types of rear end (pen nib, FAW7 or reheat cans). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qn30jEkPz7 Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 (edited) Have read through but am struggling a bit. What is actually wrong with the Novo kit? Can something vaguely FAW9 shaped be coaxed out of it? I have half a notion of making that Duxford red and white one but ideally without spending a fortune on cross kitting and extras Edited February 21, 2020 by LostCosmonauts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Womby Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 1 hour ago, LostCosmonauts said: Have read through but am struggling a bit. What is actually wrong with the Novo kit? Can something vaguely FAW9 shaped be coaxed out of it? I have half a notion of making that Duxford red and white one but ideally without spending a fortune on cross kitting and extras Depends how perfect you want it to be, of course that's a personal choice, but it looks fine to me albeit a bit clunky in detail. The one thing I would fix is the radome. It looks too short and blunt and more like that on the FAW8 that had a US radar and different radome. David 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qn30jEkPz7 Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 Thanks, clunky and imperfect I can live with & radome should be an easy fix. You’ve saved me a hell of a lot of head scratching and rereading and cross referencing threads there @David Womby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rs2man Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 I would agree with David's comments . The only other thing I can think of is that I've read somewhere that the fin is too thin in cross-section . As regards the radome , Freightdog do a replacement resin item for the princely sum of 4 quid . As a final point , you'd be best off looking for an original Frog moulding if you can get one at reasonable money . They had better decals and clearer canopies . 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qn30jEkPz7 Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 9 hours ago, rs2man said: I would agree with David's comments . The only other thing I can think of is that I've read somewhere that the fin is too thin in cross-section . As regards the radome , Freightdog do a replacement resin item for the princely sum of 4 quid . As a final point , you'd be best off looking for an original Frog moulding if you can get one at reasonable money . They had better decals and clearer canopies . Thanks, I received the Novo boxing as a gift but excellent advice. Much appreciated As I’m going to do the Duxford one that’d need the radome reworking to add a window in the right side and a probe in the very tip I’ll likely print my own and have Freightdog as a back-up in case it doesn’t work out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hadland Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 So if I understand this thread correctly, which isn't guaranteed, the best, or least worst 1/72 Gloster Javelin is 1 Novo Kit (or the Frog) 2 Airfix 3 Heller 4 Mistercraft, ZTS Plastyk or the Chematic And all these kits need aftermarket PE, Resin and/or Decals to bring it up to a good standard. Hopefully I'm close enough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rs2man Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 19 minutes ago, David Hadland said: So if I understand this thread correctly, which isn't guaranteed, the best, or least worst 1/72 Gloster Javelin is 1 Novo Kit (or the Frog) 2 Airfix 3 Heller 4 Mistercraft, ZTS Plastyk or the Chematic And all these kits need aftermarket PE, Resin and/or Decals to bring it up to a good standard. Hopefully I'm close enough. Not really . The best kit is the Heller T3 , but of course it is just a T3 . If you want a fighter version you need a new rear fuselage for the Airfix FAW9 to either correct the narrow rear end or convert it to another of the fighter variants . The Frog/Novo FAW9 is more accurate in dimensions than the Airfix , but MUCH cruder and needs a Freightdog radome . The Mistercraft etc kit is basically a reworked Frog kit with better-detailed jetpipes and the option of an FAW7 rear fuselage . If you just want a Javelin , go for the Heller T3 if you can find one . If it must be a fighter version then you'll need the help of the aftermarket and which kit you start with will depend on which variant you want to build . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B (Sc) Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Most interesting thread this. I had not realised until now that the Airfix 1/72nd Javelin 9R had, effectively, a modified T3 rear end. Was the early , pen-nib fairing rear slimmer in both plan view and in profile? I ask because I am tempted to modify an Airfix 1/48th Javelin 9R back to the earlier Javelin 5. At the moment Alleycat is not responding, so rather than use a resin conversion it looks like I will need to revert to old habits and build my own adaptation. It looks to me as though the main reduction in rear fuselage width is in plan view, with the side profile mostly being slightly straighter on its underside. With some internal filling before hand, it should be possible to sand the rear done to a reasonable impression of the earlier rear shape. What do you folk think? John B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antti_K Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Hello John, I think it is possible but I would firstly use some stiff Plasticard to create a firm basis for Milliput and re-shaping. The rear end in the Airfix kit is rather "fragile" without the FAW.9 jet pipes and especially the end plate. Another major thing to sort out is the wing leading edge. See here for further info: Cheers, Antti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWFK10 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 The fin on the Frog/Novo kit really is way, way too thin in cross-section. To me, that's a much more noticeable problem (once you know about it) than the radome. Unfortunately it can't be fixed with a plastic card shim as it's a one-piece casting, so you're looking at a scratchbuilt replacement fin and rudder. The Mistercraft kit has the same issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B (Sc) Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 Thank you Antti_K. Must get on with that conversion. The leading edge droop is quite subtle. I shall probably also haul out a 1/72nd Novo Javelin and maybe an old Airfix T3 to build, now my enthusiasm for Javelins has been revived by reading these threads. The last one I built was the natural metal one used by the CO of 228 OCU, An aircraft which I recall seeing at Leuchars many years ago. Somewhere., I still have photos. Cheers, John B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antti_K Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 You are welcome John🙂 I still have one Airfix 1/48 scale Javelin in the stash; I simply can't made up my mind whether to build a FAW.4 (I got the AlleyCat conversion set) or that red and white trials aircraft. One of the oldest surviving models in my collection is an Airfix FAW.9. And a Frog one waiting for refurbishing (if I can find all the bits and pieces). Cheers, Antti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeELL Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 It is 2023 so sometime since this thread was started! I am sure that the Javelins planned have all been built but, just in case, I have a replacement rear end for the Airfix Javelin with re-heat nozzles that point down and in, I have replacement nozzles for the HPM rear that are the correct size, with the correct number of slots and the rearward/forward vents and they have the inward/downward cant built in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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