Rye Field Jagdpanther G2

[BlackMax12]

Made a start on this little beast.  They have you start with the main gun which is strange, normally it's the chassis which comes first.

 

Anyway, there's 92 pieces and some are so small I can barely see them never mind trying to pick them up with pointy tweezers. The muzzle

break isn't attached yet as that mantlet or whatever it's called is just loose. If this is a foretaste of the amount of detail it's going to be a dilly.

I'm spoiled by those 1/16 monsters so this one is just a little tough for the old eyes and the four thumbs. Too bad most of this exquisite detail will never be seen again once the

top goes on but I know it's there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Soeren]

Hey there Lloyd, that looks like a nively detailed kit. The gun assembly is amazing. Have not seen it that detailed yet and to find that there was a coil spring to help levelling the gun. There seem to be some fit issues though? Spotted some gaps.

[mick]

good start

[BlackMax12]

Hi Soeren

 

Yes you are right there are quite a few fit issues. For some reason the plastic used doesn't respond well to Tamiya

Extra Thin  Cement either so it's made even more difficult to assemble. That big coil spring has a mold seam running top

to bottom that's impossible to remove but the seams on the recoil cylinders will get some attention and some other mold seams

need work as I see now.

 

All in all the gun looks great and I'm tempted to try some sort of cutaway on the hull to show it off. Maybe I should sit back

and think about that for a bit though, LOL.

 

Take care,

 

Lloyd

 

[BlackMax12]

Thanks Mick

 

Don't know why they want you to start with the main gun rather than the chassis but it's a start.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Lloyd

[spruecutter96]

Hi, Lloyd. 

 

I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on the Jadgpanther. 

 

I remember there was a Jadgpanther in London's Imperial War Museum for many years, with a large section of the crew compartment side-wall removed (if memory serves me well, the removed section was about 2 meters by 80 centimeters in size). Several years ago the tank-destroyer was moved to Duxford, where it was shoe-horned in to the Land Warfare Hall, so there was no way to have a look inside (a shame, but I appreciate that there is very limited space in the hall). 

 

Thanks for sharing with us. 

 

Chris.   

[BlackMax12]

Thanks Chris

 

Going slow as I'm also working on a Rye Field Panther G, finishing off the first Trumpeter 1/16 Panther G Early and

I started the second 1/16 Panther last night. No lack of plastic around here right now. Easy to keep the 1/16 parts

separate but I've got to watch the two 1/35 kits so I don't get things confused, that's easy for me.

 

I see Trumpeter is releasing a 1/16 Panther G Late so I'll have to get that one too when it shows. The only real concern

is that apparently it will have steel wheels, the turret mantlet chin and the heater setup on the rear deck. Far as

I have been able to determine there were none in that configuration with steel wheels. Good old Trumpeter!!!

I suppose I can switch the upper hull and turret or the wheels from one of these early versions to make that right though.

I don't have the upper hulls attached so they can be removed to see the interior so it should be easy to

switch from one chassis to the correct one. I'm sure they won't include rubber tires and wheels along with the

steel wheels but I've been wrong before.  We'll see when it comes.

 

Take care,

 

Lloyd

[Redcoat2966]

Looking forward to following this one Lloyd, as I'm still in two minds on either Jagd' or Berg' version to choose for a 2020 project list........shame they do such a nice gun breech but it's trapped inside.....

 

Simon.

[Harry Callahan]

Hi Lloyd

 

I like the Jagdpanther as my favorites from WWII. But i wonder why it has fitting issues, in the box review from MBK ( Modellbau König ) they praise it as the best model he ever hold in hands, i am confuse now, coz i was planned to buy this one too. So i think the best idea is to follow your build thread, how it runs continue, good luck.

[Redcoat2966]

18 hours ago, BlackMax12 said:

Yes you are right there are quite a few fit issues. For some reason the plastic used doesn't respond well to Tamiya

Extra Thin  Cement ............

 

Lloyd, I tend not to go with what I might call "store bought" styrene cement. I worked in the 3D industry in advertising. My model shop bought stuff similar to this. I get on line from commercial sources, easy to do and is about 25% the cost of Tamiya and other modelling brands. And, is far, far better. I use very little and literally welds them together.

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2019 by Redcoat2966

[BlackMax12]

Thanks Simon

 

Thanks Harry

 

The fitting issues are probably just me. There are so many tiny parts to this gun and I'm fresh

off another 1/16 scale build so they seem exceptionally tiny. 

 

I've moved on to the inside of the upper hull and started the sides of the lower. The detail is just

amazing with again lots of tiny parts and photo etch galore. They even give you the end

covers for the torsion rods to glue to the outside of the hull, 8 little perfect covers to glue

on each side between the normal axles.  It's this level of detail that make the Rye Field kits

just the best, tedious , but the best. Sometimes wonder if Rye Field and Miniart are related as

they both are detail crazy.

 

There are some details like wiring, brackets, links between the upper and lower foot pedals, etc that are

completely missing on the 1/16 Trumpeter Panthers and I will try to add some of that to the

second 1/16 Panther. Rye Field have certainly done their homework while Trumpeter just gives you

the bare outline which is sad for 1/16 scale.

 

I'm also working on the Rye Field Panther G with the cutaway hull and again the detail is outstanding.

They give you two separate rear bulkheads for the fighting compartment. One is plain and the second

has the cutouts and ducting for the heater option on the rear deck with all of the ducting and two

separate covers for the main engine access, one with and one without the holes for the heater ducts. 

You certainly have to watch the instructions to know which parts to use where.

 

Take care,

 

Lloyd

Edited April 6, 2019 by BlackMax12

[BlackMax12]

Haven't gotten too far on this one. Got the inside upper hull worked on and the sides of the lower hull but got side-tracked.

 

Yes, I know the filler isn't sanded on the recoil cylinders but the gun assembly is just dry fitted to the hull so it's removable.

 

Edited April 6, 2019 by BlackMax12

[Jack Klugman]

This is an impressive looking build. We are currently in a golden age of Panther modeling but the volume of them coming out at the same time from three different manufacturers leaves the consumer wondering which one to build.  You should think of doing a side by side comparison with the Tacom Model 

[Soeren]

I would say both of these with interior are fantastic and would be interesting and if only for educational purposes.

[Bozothenutter]

strange though that as the more fiddly one the RFM has cast in vent/heating tubed on the floor when compared to Takom

[BlackMax12]

Thanks Jack

 

I did a bit of a comparison of the lower hulls on my Takom Jagdpanther G1 thread. 

The Rye Field is more detailed in some places but so is the Takom and the Takom is certainly easier to build

(and cheaper than the RF)

 

Thanks Soeren

 

You should build one (or both) as one can never ever have too many Jagdpanthers, I've got 4 so far and they just keep coming.

I'm waiting for Trumpeter to build one in 1/16 scale though as the Tamiya is way way out of my price range and I'd like a big one.

 

Lloyd

[BlackMax12]

Made my first serious mistake today. Got ahead of the instruction assembly sequence and started installing the PE cross bracing to the hull bottom. It

was going well so I also installed the front to rear PE stringers. Oops! Now I can't get the torsion bars in place through the stringers. I ended up cutting

them up, wiggling them in  piece by piece and gluing them back together. It looks ok and most will be hidden. The Rye Field Panther G hull is exactly

the same so I for sure won't make that same error. There also wasn't any point of painting the torsion bars as they will get all red primer now and have to

be repainted anyway.

 

The transmission and most of the other parts are just dry fitted and will be removed until the floor, etc is painted.

 

Here it is.

 

Edited April 8, 2019 by BlackMax12

[mick]

great work

[Redcoat2966]

Yes, really great to follow along. Certainly planning a full interior build for next next year. Good to see how much needs to be done 👍

 

great work so far

[BlackMax12]

Thanks Mick

 

Thanks Simon

 

It wouldn't be so much work if some fool could follow the instructions. But what the hey, makes

life interesting when you foul up, long as it can be fixed that is.

 

Take care,

 

Lloyd

[Jack Klugman]

4 hours ago, BlackMax12 said:

Thanks Mick

 

Thanks Simon

 

It wouldn't be so much work if some fool could follow the instructions. But what the hey, makes

life interesting when you foul up, long as it can be fixed that is.

 

Take care,

 

Lloyd

Yes indeed, i have ran into some unexpected problems with the Panther A because I build it out of sequence to make painting easier. Had to come up with creative solutions 

[BlackMax12]

Thanks Jack

 

Four thumbs is taking a break and building a fence for the back yard today. Spent all day Sunday correcting

my goof so I needed to get away from it. If you aren't paying attention or as you say trying to build out of sequence

it gets too much.

 

Take care,

 

Lloyd

[Bozothenutter]

On ‎4‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 5:06 AM, BlackMax12 said:

Made my first serious mistake today. Got ahead of the instruction assembly sequence and started installing the PE cross bracing to the hull bottom. It

was going well so I also installed the front to rear PE stringers. Oops! Now I can't get the torsion bars in place through the stringers. I ended up cutting

them up, wiggling them in  piece by piece and gluing them back together. It looks ok and most will be hidden. The Rye Field Panther G hull is exactly

the same so I for sure won't make that same error. There also wasn't any point of painting the torsion bars as they will get all red primer now and have to

be repainted anyway.

 

The transmission and most of the other parts are just dry fitted and will be removed until the floor, etc is painted.

 

Here it is.

 

 

There's a voice inside my head saying "seperate the whole lot, slice off the hatches (or make some PE) and build it like the Original"

Sometimes.....i listen.......

[Model Makers Union]

On ‎4‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 8:41 AM, BlackMax12 said:

Hi Soeren

 

Yes you are right there are quite a few fit issues. For some reason the plastic used doesn't respond well to Tamiya

Extra Thin  Cement either so it's made even more difficult to assemble. That big coil spring has a mold seam running top

to bottom that's impossible to remove but the seams on the recoil cylinders will get some attention and some other mold seams

need work as I see now.

 

All in all the gun looks great and I'm tempted to try some sort of cutaway on the hull to show it off. Maybe I should sit back

and think about that for a bit though, LOL.

 

Take care,

 

Lloyd

 

just a little trick I picked up...to get rid of mold lines in tricky parts like the spring you speak of just bust out the trusty extra thin...brush it along the line and then brush the glue inside all the grooves, keeping it wet with glue so as not to start "pulling" the plastic as it softens. keep it wet and brushing and watch the line disappear. when the part dries it will be shiny from the glue but the line will be gone and all the detail will remain. I used this trick on my Russian Terminator on the rocket launchers and it worked perfectly. Once the paint is on the shiny goes away with no apparent adverse affects to the following top coats.

[Redcoat2966]

6 minutes ago, Model Makers Union said:

just a little trick I picked up...to get rid of mold lines in tricky parts like the spring you speak of just bust out the trusty extra thin...brush it along the line and then brush the glue inside all the grooves, keeping it wet with glue so as not to start "pulling" the plastic as it softens. keep it wet and brushing and watch the line disappear. when the part dries it will be shiny from the glue but the line will be gone and all the detail will remain. I used this trick on my Russian Terminator on the rocket launchers and it worked perfectly. Once the paint is on the shiny goes away with no apparent adverse affects to the following top coats.

Ditto, been doing that a long time...........especially for detailed areas of a small scale.....getting rid of the shine is easy, I use a fibreglass pencil........