Which paint?

[torqueofthedevil]

...would you recommend to someone who was starting out with an airbrush? I'm actually not new to this, but getting back into it after a break, and most of my Xtracolor enamels are quite old. Typical subjects are Luftwaffe or Japanese aircraft in 1/32 and 1/48, which is why I went for Xtracolor in the first place. Now I see that Humbrol also offer the main RLM colours as well, so do I 

 

(a) just buy new Xtracolor enamels

(b) try the Humbrol ones or

(c) go for something completely different? 

 

All opinions or guidance gratefully received! 

[Ratch]

Vallejo Model Air sprays beautifully

 

Vallejo Model Air 71044 Light Grey Green FS34201 RAL7002 RLM02 

Vallejo Model Air 71001 White FS37925 RAL9016 RLM21

Vallejo Model Air 71057 Black RLM22 RAL9004 FS37038

Vallejo Model Air 71014 Gunship Green FS34108 RAL6020 RLM25

Vallejo Model Air 71033 Ochre FS33637 RAL1006 RLM27

Vallejo Model Air 71008 Pale Blue RLM65

Vallejo Model Air 71021 Black Green RLM70 FS34052 RAL6015

Vallejo Model Air 71015 Olive Grey RLM71 RAL6006 FS33070

Vallejo Model Air 71016 US Dark Green RLM73 RAL6014 FS34079

Vallejo Model Air 71054 Dark Grey Blue RLM74 FS36099

Vallejo Model Air 71046 Pale Grey Blue FS36375 RLM76

Vallejo Model Air 71034 Sandy Brown RLM79 

Vallejo Model Air 71017 Russian Green RLM80

Vallejo Model Air 71043 Olive Drab RLM81 RAL7013

Vallejo Model Air 71022 Camouflage Greeny FS34095 RLM82

Vallejo Model Air 71011 Tank Green FS34089 RLM83

Edited March 30, 2019 by Ratch
list added

[fubar57]

Much appreciated for those paint numbers Ratch. I agree about the VMA. I would like to add, wait 24 hours before masking and remove most of the tack from the masking tape. Run a thin bead of clear along the edge of the tape. Lots of people complain about VMA lifting with the tape but I've had about 3 to 4 square mm of paint lift on 5 models; all my fault for being in a rush to get the tape off. This is roughly the same as when I use Tamiya, Gunze or Polly Scale.

 

 

 

George

[Ed Russell]

Some paints are good for 20+ years if well sealed. Others are difficult to spray when brand new.

You would be better off to do some experimentation yourself and see what you are comfortable with than ask for other peoples' opinions. Opinions are like #######s - everyone has one!

Get one tin of Humbrol and a couple of other brands with their appropriate thinners and spray them - it might  seem an unwarranted expense now but is actually a good investment in your future modelling.

 

[Kevin Callahan]

I'm a diehard Xtracolour fan since the mid-80s, and being in the US with the current worldwide postal restrictions on flying enamel paints, that ain't easy! But as long as you thin them sufficiently, and occasionally allow for some addition drying time (which seems to vary by batch and not by specific color or even range of colors like various blues) you should be fine. I never converted to acrylics because I have had issues with adhesion, drying in the airbrush tip, masking, etc. Since I'm 62 and use a breathing regulator, I don't worry too much about the fumes. 

[Chuck1945]

Do try your existing stock of Xtracolor before getting replacements. I no longer use enamels, but as said above if they were stored properly, they are probably still good. I have used 30 year old Gunze  aqueous paints with no problems

[pat d]

If you want to stick with enamels Xtracolor and / or Sovereign Colorcoats will do you well. Colorcoats has a good selection of Japanese colors also Italian. Both have very long shelf lives if the tin lids are cleaned and tightly caped. I bet your Xtracolor supply id still viable...

[Evil_Toast_RSA]

If your wanting to stick with enamels, I can't really help you there unfortunately.

 

For acrylics, I would recommend Tamiya. The range is idiot proof, so whilst experimenting with your air brush, any over thinning on your part won't be an issue for example. Then once you feel confident enough, feel free to do some research and see what locally available brand you think will be a good fit for you if you want a change. 

 

 

[Basilisk]

Give it a bit more time and you will see all available paints listed here. Some can airbrush paint A beautifully, but not paint B, for others neither works, but get great results with paint C and others can paint B beautifully, but not paint A - and so on!

 

I am afraid, but YOU have to work out what works for you. When I got back into the hobby, I bought paints from around 10 different paint manufacturer and spent some time experimenting what works for me.

 

As you have already some Xtracolor enamels, there is a good chance they are still ok. So I would start with them.

 

In general, enamels are easy to airbrush, but take relatively long to dry. Laquers are also easy to airbrush and do dry much faster. But both have an unpleasant odor. Acrylics on the other hand can be odorless (but there are many different types of acrylics), but are more challenging to airbrush.

 

Have fun experimenting. It also helps you learning to use an airbrush.

Cheers, Peter

[politicni komisar]

 

If you're from England 

I would go to paint

the best and authentic enamel:

 

https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/blogs/news/115949252-wem-colourcoats-white-ensign-paint-colourcoats

 

 

P.k/Samo

[galgos]

THE best paint by a mile for use with an airbrush is MRP; it sprays beautifully straight from the bottle so no need for worrying about mixing portions or consistency, the range of colours is extensive, it dries, quite literally, in minutes and since it's thin some very subtle effects can be achieved by building up layers. Beats everything else hands down in my opinion.....and I have used most paints on the market.

They're available in the UK from HMHobbies, whose service is fantastic. 

Max 

[Dads203]

1 minute ago, galgos said:

THE best paint by a mile for use with an airbrush is MRP; it sprays beautifully straight from the bottle so no need for worrying about mixing portions or consistency, the range of colours is extensive, it dries, quite literally, in minutes and since it's thin some very subtle effects can be achieved by building up layers. Beats everything else hands down in my opinion.....and I have used most paints on the market.

Max 

 

I have to agree, MRP is a revelation in paint, not often a product comes along like this 

[FinnAndersen]

I have had all sorts of problems with acrylics drying in the airbrush, so I use Xtra color exclusively.

 

Overtime I have learned just how thin it needs to be to produce that gloss surface that makes decaling a treat. 

 

So my vote on Xtracolor

 

/Finn

Edited March 30, 2019 by FinnAndersen
misspelling

[torqueofthedevil]

Thank you for all the replies - plenty to ponder! A variety of useful ideas and information, much appreciated 

[Kevin Callahan]

16 hours ago, galgos said:

THE best paint by a mile for use with an airbrush is MRP; it sprays beautifully straight from the bottle so no need for worrying about mixing portions or consistency, the range of colours is extensive, it dries, quite literally, in minutes and since it's thin some very subtle effects can be achieved by building up layers. Beats everything else hands down in my opinion.....and I have used most paints on the market.

They're available in the UK from HMHobbies, whose service is fantastic. 

Max 

Now that's really weird - and indicative of how each operator is different. I had nothing but trouble with MRP when I made a foray into their lines when my sources for Xtracolour were drying up (to coin a phrase). They had a good range of colors. I was mostly interested in their Italian WW2 shades at the time. But coverage was lousy and it would pool and run at the slightest provocation. So I scampered back to Xtracolour when I found a new US source (at the time Roll Models, currently Kitlinx). Is it because I've worked out all the kinks and nuances with Xtracolour but hadn't with MRP? Possibly. But there is a virtue to sticking with the proven performer. 

[galgos]

5 hours ago, Kevin Callahan said:

Now that's really weird - and indicative of how each operator is different. I had nothing but trouble with MRP when I made a foray into their lines when my sources for Xtracolour were drying up (to coin a phrase). They had a good range of colors. I was mostly interested in their Italian WW2 shades at the time. But coverage was lousy and it would pool and run at the slightest provocation. So I scampered back to Xtracolour when I found a new US source (at the time Roll Models, currently Kitlinx). Is it because I've worked out all the kinks and nuances with Xtracolour but hadn't with MRP? Possibly. But there is a virtue to sticking with the proven performer. 

I know several people who use MRP Kevin but none of us has ever had that experience, it just doesn't add up! MRP was originally marketed as Mr Paint, and of course there is another acrylic (but not lacquer-based) paint known as Mr Paint. My understanding is that MRP/Mr Paint has been difficult to source in the States so I'm wondering if your experience was with the water-based Mr Paint (bottles like the Tamiya range) or the supreme lacquer-based MRP (tall bottles with a ball bearing included to aid mixing)? 

Max 

[Chuck1945]

Max, there is a MRP source in the US and he does a pretty good job keeping it in stock. While my experiences with MRP have been good , it isn’t the best ever because at least for me, it is very difficult to brush paint any small details that can’t be airbrushed.

Edited March 31, 2019 by Chuck1945

[galgos]

1 hour ago, Chuck1945 said:

Max, there is a MRP source in the US and he does a pretty good job keeping it in stock. While my experiences with MRP have been good , it isn’t the best ever because at least for me, it is very difficult to brush paint any small details that can’t be airbrushed.

No Chuck, it doesn't brush at all - that I agree is the one negative factor about it, but then I never had success brushing Vallejo Model Air paints either!  MRP do an Aqua range, water-based for brush painting, akin to Vallejo Model Color, so I just mix a little of that to the required colour and brush that.

Max

[torqueofthedevil]

I really like the sound of MRP - I will try to use up the Xtracolor stocks which I have left, but my results with it have been a bit variable even when new. I realize that this is probably my fault rather than the paint (ie perhaps wrong ratio of paint to thinner etc) but having a paint which comes ready to spray removes the chance of getting it wrong! And any excess paint left at the end of the job can go straight back in the jar. I take the point about the difficulty of brush painting details with MRP,  but I could use the Xtracolor for that.

 

Again my thanks to everyone for their contributions. 

Edited March 31, 2019 by torqueofthedevil
Typo

[Bozothenutter]

On 3/30/2019 at 6:15 AM, Evil_Toast_RSA said:

If your wanting to stick with enamels, I can't really help you there unfortunately.

 

For acrylics, I would recommend Tamiya. The range is idiot proof, so whilst experimenting with your air brush, any over thinning on your part won't be an issue for example. Then once you feel confident enough, feel free to do some research and see what locally available brand you think will be a good fit for you if you want a change. 

 

 

This, Diehard enamel here aswell, though i use whatever suits the purpose now, but to learn, use tamiya acrylics, milky consistency and enjoy!

[galgos]

1 hour ago, torqueofthedevil said:

I really like the sound of MRP - I will try to use up the Xtracolor stocks which I have left, but my results with it have been a bit variable even when new. I realize that this is probably my fault rather than the paint (ie perhaps wrong ratio of paint to thinner etc) but having a paint which comes ready to spray removes the cance of getting it wrong! And any excess paint left at the end of the job can go straight back in the jar. 

 

I'm very frugal with the paint, I put it into the a/b cup with a pipette and suck out any unused to go back in the bottle. TypicallyI spray at 12-15psi, the paint is very thin. 

[Julien]

Moved to the paint section.

[galgos]

Has the OP been informed his thread has been moved? 

Max 

[Kevin Callahan]

On 3/30/2019 at 11:31 PM, galgos said:

I know several people who use MRP Kevin but none of us has ever had that experience, it just doesn't add up! MRP was originally marketed as Mr Paint, and of course there is another acrylic (but not lacquer-based) paint known as Mr Paint. My understanding is that MRP/Mr Paint has been difficult to source in the States so I'm wondering if your experience was with the water-based Mr Paint (bottles like the Tamiya range) or the supreme lacquer-based MRP (tall bottles with a ball bearing included to aid mixing)? 

Max 

No, it was the tall bottle with the big MRP on the side. Different experience for different people, I guess...

[bmwh548]

MRP requires a completely different approach to the whole painting process. The coats need to be micro-thin or the paint will pool up/run because of it's water like consistency. I've read that certain colours have a poor pigment, but for most of their range they're solid. Patience and a very delicate trigger finger that's the key with them. Most recently I've used White on a 1:24 car model with no issues, dried rock hard, sandable (had some dust on a wing), very nice paint.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g-kxAiiWXieegZGSWWKxSMa222ZnWPXP