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Me 262 A1a/U3


Greg Law

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Thanks Rich. That really sorted me out. Got lots of paint today so I'm sorted for the late war German planes for a while. I also finally found Mr color leveling thinner at last.

So I'm ready to move ahead.

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41 minutes ago, Greg Law said:

I also finally found Mr color leveling thinner at last.

OOOOOOOOHHHHH!!!   :yikes:  be very careful with that stuff!!

 

Don't whatever you do pre-mix the stuff in bottles and leave it!! In less than a week when mixed with paint it starts to change the colour of the paint!  I like to premix my paints and when I started using Mr Leveller, it worked great, but within a week it had started to discolour my clear coats within a month it had turned them an orange colour!!!  Even with normal colours it sent them off as well, both Tamiya and Gunze, I had to throw away all the stuff I had pre-thinned!! I now don't trust the stuff at all.

 

Below is Gunze Mr Hobby Acrylic H-308

 

IMG_2906.jpg 

                           neat                                        thinned wt Lacquer Thinners            thinned wt Mr. Leveller

 

I have near a full big bottle of the stuff that I really don't know what to do with.

 

If you want the best thinners and levelling solution combined try Tamiya's Lacquer Thinners, the stuff is magic plus it helps toughen the finish as well and it won't discolour, and it worked better than that Levelling solution. Work perfectly with Tamiya and Mr. Hobby, have heard it'll work with other acrylics but I haven't tried yet. 

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There is a new Tamiya levelling Lacquer thinner out now. I almost bought it, but as I haven't heard anything about it I went for the Mr Hobby one. 

Does the Mr Leveller thinner work with Mr Surfacer? 

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it'll probably work ok with Mr Surface. But The Tamiya stuff is the way to go. I heard about it on another forum, it was being talked about and the few that had tried it raved about it, so I had to give it a go. Try it and you'll never go back to anything else.

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I wish I had heard that yesterday. After waiting for months to get my hands on a bottle of the Mr Hobby one. The next day I find there is a better one, which I in fact could have bought yesterday.😠 Always the way with me. If I have two choices you can be sure I will pick the wrong one. Anyway thanks Rich I will get some next week.

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:D don't worry I found out the painful way.

 

Still use the Mr. Leveller, but only mix what you need and throw away the unused paint. It's just a pain to have to mix it every time and to get the blend right, but at least you won't waste the bottle. But when you get the chance and are able to grab the Tamiya stuff.

 

IMG_2920-M.jpg

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I think Matt has secretly completed his Blenheim and raided my Me 262 factory and did a bit of damage to my Bomber before it could get into the air. 

Unfortunately for Matt I have a replacement lined up ready to get some seriously quick building to take it's place. I managed to save the cockpit from the old one.

Good thing about the Hobby Boss Me 262 kits are they come with all the main parts. This fighter kit is now becoming the Bomber plane. I will use my

Tamiya fighter kit for the fighter version.

The reason behind this step back is I have found the cause of the bad nose fit and fixed it in the new fuselage and the dry fit is perfect as a result the replacement should be really good. Also means I can 

correct the wrong painting of the fuselage on this one. I will use the parts to practise my painting. 

They don't call me 'Two kit Greg" for nothing.   

Bomber parts

 

The rebuild underway. Can't paint to day. We have a bit of a storm outside. 

Rebuild bomber

 

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Well I couldn't save all the cockpit so I'm starting again with it. The instruments decal wasn't on straight anyway. I saved the seat and rudder peddles. 

Also it gives me a chance to paint the instrument panel right.

This is going to be my painting test model. I managed to get it back together enough. If you look at the nose you will see it just doesn't look

right. By the way this is my first binned model.

 

The paint mule

 

This is the scheme I might do. It looks a bit easier than the squiggle. It is from the Hobby Boss kit.

 

Kg51 Me 262

 

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The secret is the luges on the metal and plastic nose gear bay parts that go into the fuselage parts.. They are too long. You just need to reduce their length a bit, then all fits for me.

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Just getting back to this thread and your 262 is coming up great Greg.

 

Now about the Lacquer thinner debate, I suppose it’s horses for courses with this one. My view is the opposite to Rich’s above however that doesn’t mean either one of us is correct. I’ve never pre-thinned my paint and only mix what I need. The little I have left is either poured back into the paint bottle or just used up doing some spray googles. I did buy the new Orange Cap Tamiya Lacquer Thinner ‘Retarder type’ and IIMO believe it’s a little too hot for my liking. I noticed a distinct bubbling of the smooth plastic when applied and have hardly used it since. Perhaps I was using too much as I prefer to use really thin paints, but to be honest I’m not a great fan of this new Tamiya stuff. 

 

@trickyrich, should we ever cross paths in this vast country of ours, I’ll gladly exchange my Lacquer thinner for your unwanted Gunze product.

 

Cheers.. Dave  

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@Rabbit Leader :D probably not the easiest thing to do.

 

I haven't tried that "Orange" cap stuff, mine has that odd "yellow" coloured cap. It may be the retarding agent that is causing the issues, the stuff I use you can pretty well spray it neat (most so when mixed 90:10) and I've never had issues with it and plastic.  To be honest I haven't seen that stuff with the Retarder before, not not sure I want to.

 

They recommend 2:1 for that thinner but reckon you can go further. The real trick is to drop the pressure right down and spray nice and close (max of 60-70mm away), I have to as I only use a 0.2mm nozzle/needle, I get super smooth finishes now.

 

@Greg Law glad you finally sorted out what caused the nose issues.

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Did well with my work projects today so I managed to make some time to paint the Aluminium parts. 

I will do a little detail painting tonight in the cockpit.  

My Me 262 A-1a/U4 Kit turned up today. I was pleased to see there is no annoying nose build up. It is

like the Recon kit with the complete fuselage sides. Looks like it will be an easy paint as well. I got a metal barrel for it. 

I think it will be the next Me 262 I build. The real plane did two sorties against the bombers, but broke down both times.

Something tells me that big gun up front must have caused vibration or something.

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Bomber rebuild coming along. I have rebuilt the cockpit and painted all interior parts metal. I'm not painting the gun bay as it will be sealed on this one, but I will put the guns in.

In this image it is only dry fitted. It all seems to me fitting very well. The only parts from the original kit is the seat.  

 

Rebuild bomber2

 

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can imagine it did, I know they fitted a 50mm (or was it 88mm) to an He-177, plus a pair of 37mm cannons to another, can imagine it almost stilled it when it/they fired! 

 

Glad to see they're all coming together correctly this time.

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6 hours ago, trickyrich said:

can imagine it did, I know they fitted a 50mm (or was it 88mm) to an He-177, plus a pair of 37mm cannons to another, can imagine it almost stilled it when it/they fired! 

 

Glad to see they're all coming together correctly this time.

The fitted gun was a 50mm cannon. On the two sorties the problem was the gun jammed.

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I use Gunze Levelling Thinner quite a lot. It can thin Mr Surfacer, but it's rather mild for that and I often just use lacquer thinner, which in my workshop is car carburettor/injector cleaner in a spray can (you can thank me from the chemotherapy ward later).  A good use for Levelling thinner is to thin putty.  I use Tamiya white putty, it can be thinned on the palette to make a paste.  Or, apply the putty to the seam, then you dip a cotton swab in Levelling Thinner and rub it back, it saves a lot of sanding and it ensures a good bond between the putty and the model.  Mr Levelling Thinner will melt plastic eventually, so be careful if you're using a type of plastic you're not used to: it's quite vicious on Roden and Pavla plastic.

 

I don't use it to thin Aqueous Hobby Color, I just use rubbing alcohol for that.

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Well I had a delay on one of my work projects today so I had an afternoon of modelling. I worked on the bomber and got it back together. This time the nose went together 

without any sanding of external parts. I had to tweak some of the joining faces underneath a bit eg. the wing seat. However all went well and it is as you see it. This is in it's rough state

before any sanding of the nose area which will be minimal.  I'm very pleased I took a step back with this plane it has shown me that even a fit problem can be sorted with

 a bit of care. At least I no longer have a droopy nose. 🙂

 

Rebuild bomber3

 

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On 5/13/2019 at 12:38 AM, Greg Law said:

The secret is the luges on the metal and plastic nose gear bay parts that go into the fuselage parts.. They are too long. You just need to reduce there length a bit, then all fits for me. 

 

Thanks Greg. Simple as that.. I shall apply that approach to my HB 262s.

 

Thanks

 

Matt

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2 minutes ago, Mattlow said:

 

Thanks Greg. Simple as that.. I shall apply that approach to my HB 262s.

 

Thanks

 

Matt

Matt

Not quite. There is a little sanding of the internal bulkheads including the cockpit front and back ones. This way you won't have to force it together like I did on the first one.

The other thing to look out for is the wing seat. I had to sort that out before the wing would sit down properly. You will see all this when you get into it.

Just remember if you sort the internals you won't have to sand the external panel much at all. I suggest dry fitting first like you saw me do on the second plane.

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Installed and painted RLM66 on the front Glass on both planes. These really are looking like Me 262's now. I masked both inside and out. Hopefully that will protect them from the superglue I need to use. 

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