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Me 262 A1a/U3


Greg Law

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Progress image. This is the extent of my Easter work. Still some more tiding to do and re-scribing across the joints. I had trouble getting the camera bay door on, but that was a case of

me forgetting to install the cross bar first. Hence the not so prefect fit of the bar. Will work on it some more. 

Now it will slow down a bit as I have to make some money. 

 

Me262 recon 5

 

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You will see little or no progress this week as I'm moving back to the farm over the weekend and Monday. Back to long drives to get a bottle of milk etc etc. I have been lucky though. I managed to get enough paint to paint it with Mr Hobby paint.

Anzac day on the Typhoon went well. I now have all the paint repairs done. I will finally be able to get it into the decal shop. It's been a long haul on that one.

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Well the seat belts arrive a few minutes before I left the city. Now I can catch up the Kg51 plane. This will be a closed up model except for the canopy, so not so much

detail to worry about.

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Here is a bit of progress. The recon plane is a bit slow while I catch up the Kg 51 plane.

I joined the fuselage together after finishing the cockpit. I made the engines or at least the main part for one of the planes.

These engines are just dry fitted, but the fit is very good as you can see by the left engine. I'm really enjoying this kit. I just wish I could spend more time on it. 

My projects haven't stalled, just slowed down a bit will I deal with my money making work projects. 

 

Me262 recon 6

 

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Well just as i thought all was going well I ran into major fit problems with the nose pieces on the second plane. I did major filing and sanding resulting in damage to the nose cowel cover. I got rather depressed that another model was looking like bin food. After giving it a good look i thought I might as well continue. I needed a part and looked into the box and noticed another nose cowel. It turned out I had put the wrong one on. So out came the knife and I cut the damaged one off and after a bit of tiding I glued the new one on. The result was a much better, so now I feel I can continue. It will take some cleaning up and a bit of filling to get it totally right.

I think all this was the result of the metal part not being quite right.

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that was a lucky save!

 

I find having a nice cup of tea before major mod/surgery/sanding helps save a lot of pain. How come the fit was so bad?

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Rich

I'm not sure. Could be me or the metal part in the nose is a fraction wide. The only real issue I see is the nose has a bit of a turn down now. Not only that I will have to put some plastic card between the gun doors and the fuselage as there is a bit of a gap. I do have the Tamiya kit for this plane arriving today which will become my bridge project plane.  I have read the fit is good on that one. When I do the fighter version I will use the plastic part and put liquid gravity on the nose. None of this is a issue on the recon plane because the nose is part of the main fuselage in that kit.

This is after a bit of filling this morning. After a nights sleep it doesn't look as bad. 

nose image

 

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Well after getting some help from Reini, I have found out this issue is a feature of the kit. His dad had the same problem and turned out a great model. That man is very skilled with an Airbrush. So I am pressing on with both of them. I will use the bomber one to improve my painting skills before I tackle the official recon one.

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Nice work on the 262s..

 

On the recon bird, you may want to fill the two lower gun ports (one on each side, set low). These were to be fitted on a projected but, as far as I know, never built version. All  armed recon 262s, and not all were armed, had the the MK108 barrel sticking out of the upper nose (as your build has).

 

Look forward to seeing them come together.

 

Matt

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Well I'm fixing a bit of an issue created by wrong colour call out in the Hobby Boss instructions.

They said the interior and wheel bay are RLM2 while the Tamiya kit and photos in my book look bare metal.

So I'm at least painting the wheel bays bare metal.

 

I'm using Vallejo metal paint. When I painted the black

primer it went on rather Heavy. I was controlling the trigger carefully, but it still seemed to spray too much. 

What is the best pressure  to spray Vallejo Metal paint? 

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If it's spraying a bit heavy (thick), I would start by thinning it out a bit more.  You can also adjust the spread by moving the AB a little further away for a broader spray pattern.  I have not used Vallejo paints in particular, so my comments are more of a a general nature.

 

Regarding the Vallejo, are you using the Flow Improver in your mix?  https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/auxiliaries-model/airbrush-flow-improver-71262/  I've heard it helps prevent the paint drying on the tip and can also improve the leveling effectiveness of the paint.  I've considered dabbling in the Vallejo paints...but I've got way to much stock in the Testors Model Master line right now.  

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Thanks Chris. 

                           If anything the paint looks to thin to me. I may not have shaked it enough was my thought on that.

As for my nose coweling fit problem is concerned. I did an experiment tonight by dry fitting all the plastic parts together on one of my other kits.

I used the plastic nose wheel bay part instead of the metal one. After a little trimming of the luges that fit into the fuselage parts

everything fitted perfectly. So it looks like the luges on both metal and plastic parts are a fraction too long. I'm pleased I have sorted this out

so I can have confidence to do my other kits in the near future without worrying about it. 

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7 hours ago, Silenoz said:

Both RLM02 and Bare Aluminium are possible, and can be interchanged (Aluminium hull and RLM cockpit bottom or vice versa).

The cockpit is RLM66. What HB called out was RLM02 for the fuselage. I thought I would do the gear bay bare aluminum and be happy with that. Any way as you say it wouldn't surprise me if both were right.

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you can never actually thin the paint too far! All that will happen is that you'll need to do more coats to achieve the right density of colour. I'd been adding a touch more thinner (for anything other than Tamiya or Gunze only use the brands thinner, for Tamiya and Gunze use tamiya's Lacquer Thinners, that stuff in magic), and reduce the paint flow (wind the needle in a touch), that should help you spray a lot thinner and finer. 

 

If you find the nozzle is clogging then you may need to thin further. plus you may need to do lots of fine coats if you find its going on "wet". There's a bit of fiddling required but you'll soon find the right mix, then it's easy.

 

I think it should be RLM66 for the cockpit, they dropped RLM02 quite early in the war for cockpits. The gear bay should be natural metal, gear and covers, well RLM02/RLM76/NM it could be any. From what I can gather it just depended what was happening on the production line.

 

This is a copy of a great article on the subject, I can't find the original I have so he's the link to one.

 

http://www.kiwimodeller.com/index.php/articles/tips-and-tricks/painting-guides/194-luftwaffe-interior-colors

 

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