quangster Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 (edited) Another difference is the presence of vents at the base of the fin of the-A. Click HERE Back to the build. I’ll be away from my desk during the next ten days so there won’t be any update of the build during that period. Anyhow here is one last walkaround of the model before it goes to the paint shop at my return. cheers, Quang Edited May 2, 2019 by quangster 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 Nice work Mr Q. The picture of the A model in Taiwanese markings is hosted by Airliners.net. Airliners.net are very pro-active of misuse of their material. Could you please change the image to the hyper-link as the Mods here have made it policy to avoid litigation. Thanks Frank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 Great work, Quang! 👍 The steamlines looks excellent on the belly. Cheers! 🙃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 @bentwaters81tfw I changed the pic to hyperlink. Thanks Frank for the heads-up. Cheers, Q 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 7 minutes ago, Nikolay Polyakov said: The steamlines looks excellent on the belly. Indeed! Especially in dissimilar fashion when only one tank is carried 😜 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 Back to bidness. :x PAINTING THE CAMOUFLAGE After some soul-searching, I decided on a generic RF-101C based in Vietnam ca. 1966-1967 just after the introduction of camouflage and before the advent of the two-letter tail codeThe 4 camouflage tones - FS34079 Forest Green, FS34102 Dark Green, FS30219 Sierra Tan, FS36622 Light Grey - were defined but not an official scheme. Apparently, there were two distinct schemes in use at the period. One would become the official one. Of course, we’ll choose the other. SEA camouflage is very popular. Every paint manufacturer has its own interpretation. Following my friend Daniel’s advice, I opted for MRP/ Mr Paint, an acrylic lacquer for its resilience and fidelity to colours. We just replaced the Dark Green FS34102 (too light to my eyes) by a Luftwaffe Dark Green RLM70 of the same make. Firstly, an overall coat of Forest Green is applied on the upper surfaces Blue Tack rolls were used to define the various colour zones 3 tones applied The kit in our friend Daniel’s capable hands The completed camouflage before final touch-up That’s it, folks. Until next time, Quang 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Wow!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Oh, Quang - it’s a perfectly done camouflage! 👍 Just a question about the lower line - it’s a tac or a free-hand airbrushing? Just done my first camouflage with a masking tape today - not so spectacular as yours. Keep up the good work! 🤝 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basket Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 WOW again ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 @Biggles87 @basket Merci pour vos encouragements, chers amis. @Nikolay Polyakov the different zones were delimited by rolls of blue tack and filled up by airbrushing. The borders between colours were then reworked free-hand until the right amount of overspray was achieved. A long and tedious process, I admit. For the waves on the lower line, I made a mask from thin cardboard and stuck it in position with blue tack. A small 1 mm gap between the cardboard and the surface to be painted would allow for the right amount of overspray. Hope this help, Quang 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 11 minutes ago, quangster said: A small 1 mm gap between the cardboard and the surface to be painted would allow for the right amount of overspray. That’s what I want to know - thanks, Quang! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Brown Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Beautiful! Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacificmustang Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 That is looking excellent. I had no idea you could get such small radiuses' and intricate demarcations just using blu -tack, otherwise I would have done my Thunderflash in a SEA scheme. Really well done Bruce 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reparty Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Good colours, Quang. I've found with the SEA scheme the tan is the hardest to get right - it's usually too Dark Earthy or too sandy. Yours looks good. I've seen good comments about the Mr. Paint range and have a few on order to try out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Reparty said: Good colours, Quang. I've found with the SEA scheme the tan is the hardest to get right - it's usually too Dark Earthy or too sandy. Yours looks good Remember the time when all we had was Humbrol ‘Authentics’. Then came Precision Paints and Xtracolors and we felt like spoiled children 😛 5 hours ago, pacificmustang said: That is looking excellent. I had no idea you could get such small radiuses' and intricate demarcations just using blu -tack, otherwise I would have done my Thunderflash in a SEA scheme. MRP is a very forgiving paint. It comes already thinned, airbrush-ready and dries almost instantly into a thin, smooth hard shell. You can do several passes on the same spot without having the paint piling up. To achieve a small overspray, I removed the blu-tack and went over the demarcation lines free-hand with the airbrush very close (1mm) to the surface to be painted and using reduced pressure (about 0,8 psi). 7 hours ago, Ben Brown said: Beautiful! Ben Thank you Ben. Glad you like it! Quang Edited May 9, 2019 by quangster 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcop Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Hi Quangster 0,4-0,5 PSI with 0.15 Nozzle and needle I would say and with the aid of a little bit of Retarder. 0,8 is the "Normal" pressure. Next times tell this guy to cut his finger nails and to skip the adds for LOTUS ! Nice job ! Madcop 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 (edited) FYI the above @madcop is my long-time modelling compadre Daniel (it’s him with the dirty nails in the photo). He takes care of the technical side (like turning the pressure valve on the compressor), makes masks, cleans the airbrush, provides food (Lotus) and beverage while I’m doing the hard work. 😜 Oh, He also provides the paints 😛. So I don’t mind if he’s grumpy from time to time. Cheers, Q Edited May 9, 2019 by quangster 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finn Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) Quang hare are some more RF-101 pics, click on the image and then the > at the right of the screen for a few more: Jari Edited May 22, 2019 by Finn 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 Wow, great link, Jari. Very interesting pics indeed, especially the Voodoos from Ubon. Incidentally, I chose to represent a generic RF-101C from Udorn, Thailand. The time period is late 1965- early 1966 not long after camouflage was introduced. The a/c carried minimal markings, with only the small serial on the tail. The familiar 2-letter tail code was only introduced in 1968. FYI, the 'real' RF-101C-55-MC #56-0220 of the 45th TRS was lost on March 7, 1966 over Vinh , North Vietnam. Here are some pics of the model with the decals on. The oversized 15-inch star-and-bars provided by KH were not used. The decals came from a variety of sources , mostly ancient Microscale revived with Micro Decal Liquid Film. The model has been given a coat of Gauzy Shine Enhancer – a Future-like gloss varnish marketed by AK Interactive – before and after decal application. Hope you like it, Cheers, Quang 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 So sexy, Quang! Excellent job. The drag chute looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) On 5/22/2019 at 9:18 PM, Nikolay Polyakov said: The drag chute looks great! This is how it will look like when it’s finished 😉 Cheers, Q Edited May 26, 2019 by quangster 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted May 25, 2019 Author Share Posted May 25, 2019 Before the final leg of the journey – weathering, patina,... - let's take a rest and finish the details on the smaller areas. In the cockpit area, I added some bits and pieces to the ejection seat, ... worked on the canopy inner sides adding a canopy breaker tool and other details, ... adjusted the correct angle of the canopy in open position AS usual, questions and comments are welcome. Cheers, Quang 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LorenSharp Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 Excellent job so far. I like the added detail in the wells. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 (edited) @LorenSharpThe detail in the canopy wells is just gizmology, small trick to make things look busy. It's small meat compared to your Moonbat. 😜 Last elements before the build's slowly drawing to its end: landing gear, burner cans, aux tank,... Rings around the burner cans are covered with kitchen foil for added realism: Camera windows are replaced with celluloid from old slide transparancies. Not exactly authentic but boy, does it look cool 😎 ! Here's the completed long bird before final adjustments. Our 101 is shown in asymetrical configuration with only one belly tank as was often the case with Voodoos. Hope you like it. Next step: weathering and patina. Until then, Cheers, Quang Edited June 1, 2019 by quangster 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LorenSharp Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 This is one fabulous job,quangster, Its amazing what a little bit of wire and plastic rod can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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