rob Lyttle Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 I know, guys. I'm just playing....! I love how much knowledge and information gets shared on this site. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 Back to the works. Today we're dealing with the only serious issue of this kit, one which made quite a few modellers shy away: THE AIR INTAKES Indeed, KH in their willingness of putting too many eggs in one basket, has provided us the intakes of the dual-seat F-101B. But as everybody knows now, the intakes on the two variants are different. This photo from Gary Wickham's superb review of the KH Voodoo says it all. The intakes on the single-seaters are straight – nearly vertical whereas the ones on the F-101B are slanted. The boundary layer trap – the small plate between the intake and the fuselage – is also different on the two variants. What's unnerving is that KH knew they goofed and tried to make up by providing extra parts to correct the intakes but without noticing them in their instructions or showing how to use them. So be it. We're left to proceed by trial and error. First thing is to identify the 4 parts: Right/Left, Upper/Lower. Note that the lower intake lips are flared. The parts are glued to the existing intake lips. RIGHT: LEFT: Inside LEFT INTAKE. Note lower lip. RIGHT INTAKE With the intake ramp Time to dry-fit. Ouch! We'll have to remove the excess Denote the area to be removed with tape Saw cut: The works: Let's call it a day. Until next time, Cheers Quang 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reparty Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Cheers Q! I knew you'd find a way to make good for the rest of us. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev The Modeller Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Stunning work and attention to detail mate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Seconded. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick_Gannon Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) Having studied the pictures would it not have been better to remove the excess material from the kit wing, there is a panel line that appears to match what you have cut off the extension in width, plus it would give you a better gluing area as the cross section of the intake is tapered. I don't know how to post pictures or I would have done to show my thoughts. Although KW provided the extra bits they appear to be too long and as no mention of these pieces appear in the instructions it is difficult to say how they should be fitted. note that they do not appear on the sprue pictures in the instructions. Mick Edited April 13, 2019 by Mick_Gannon 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 @Kev The Modeller @Biggles87 Thank you guys for your kind words! @Mick_Gannon Like I said, as there are no instructions for the extra parts, I have to proceed by trial and error. And as I’m notoriously known to do things the hard way, I’d not be surprised that there is an easier and proper way to do it, be it your solution or others that some modeller friends have kindly suggested. I’d say, let me finish what I have in mind. Unless I fail miserably, we’ll draw conclusions at to which method is the best to fix this problem. Thank you all for your support.🙏 Cheers, Quang 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 On 13/04/2019 at 01:15, quangster said: First thing is to identify the 4 parts: Right/Left, Upper/Lower. Note that the lower intake lips are flared. The parts are glued to the existing intake lips. Thanks for showing us that way to fix an intake lips, Quang! 15 hours ago, quangster said: I’d not be surprised that there is an easier and proper way to do it, be it your solution or others that some modeller friends have kindly suggested. Now it looks not so fiddly, as I expected. When I’ll start to build mine, I’ll definitely use these parts to extend an intake. Looking forward for the final work. 👍 Cheers! 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 16 minutes ago, Nikolay Polyakov said: Now it looks not so fiddly, as I expected. When I’ll start to build mine, I’ll definitely use these parts to extend an intake. Looking forward for the final work. 👍 Cheers! 😎 Unfortunately it's not finished yet, Nikolay! There's more to come 🤕 Q 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) On with the trip! It would be easier to work on the intakes– especially on the internal seams without having the wings in the way. Sooo..., the newly-modified intakes are separated from the wings with a saw cut. 😩 More than any other plane, the 101 is full of optical illusions – Voodoo magic?– especially around the intake area. Drawings are useless and walkaround photos –while useful for the details– are worthless because of the distortion they often display. What remains are the period photos of the aircraft 'in action'. A very good source is this site where US modeller Fotios Rouch went out to see a preserved RF-101C in the flesh and made measurements:https://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/f-101/f-101_tale.shtml Once the intakes are finished , the stock splltter plates must be replaced by slightly larger ones Stock plates: Cut off at the hinge New plates from plasticard. Rear view The stock inner plates are removed because they are too short and too close to the fuselage New plasticard plates. Note the new shape adapted to the intake opening. This is where we can stop holding our breath. The new intakes are glued back to the wings. Cleaned up. New panel inscribed Note the slight overhang Viewed from above, there's a slight sweep to the intake lips Front view Spreaders are made from plastic strips That's it folks. It's all downhill from now. Hopefully? Cheers, Quang Edited April 17, 2019 by quangster 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basket Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Great job ! This is what I call modeling ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 52 minutes ago, quangster said: That's it folks. It's all downhill from now. Hopefully? Looks great, Quang! But very complex 👍 I decided to keep mine in the stash for some time... Can you show us the top view, please? And great work on the spreaders, too. Cheers! 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 On 13/04/2019 at 13:47, Mick_Gannon said: Having studied the pictures would it not have been better to remove the excess material from the kit wing, there is a panel line that appears to match what you have cut off the extension in width, plus it would give you a better gluing area as the cross section of the intake is tapered. I don't know how to post pictures or I would have done to show my thoughts. Although KW provided the extra bits they appear to be too long and as no mention of these pieces appear in the instructions it is difficult to say how they should be fitted. note that they do not appear on the sprue pictures in the instructions. Mick That depends on which a/c you wish to model. From Block 10 onwards, the intake was extended forwards by 11 inches. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Now, about those rivets....................? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 6 minutes ago, bentwaters81tfw said: Now, about those rivets....................? Oh, what a picture! 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick_Gannon Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) On 4/17/2019 at 12:44 PM, bentwaters81tfw said: That depends on which a/c you wish to model. From Block 50 onwards, the intake was extended forwards by 11 inches. My statement was that there appeared to be a better area to remove the excess length that went beyound the splitter plate join to intake and that the cross section would, when rejoined would be a better match, I know nothing of what went on during manufacter of the real aircraft, from what KH have made they did not either. As the originator of this thread has reworked the intakes to what is thought to be the correct shape, I am surprised that you did not offer this information at the begining? or provide some sort of drawing, side view etc to advise that there were different intake shapes/sizes. Edited January 23, 2022 by Mick_Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Mick_Gannon said: As the originator of this thread has reworked the intakes to what is thought to be the correct shape, I am surprised that you did not offer this information at the begining? or provide some sort of drawing, side view etc to advise that there were different intake shapes/sizes. I built an F-101 A/C some months ago, and doesn’t knew about it, till I get some information from the Ronald Easley’s book some weeks ago: - start reading from the post #32 - I think you’ll find it interesting. Cheers! 🙃 Edited April 17, 2019 by Nikolay Polyakov 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 @Mick_Gannon There was indeed a discussion about the intake length in the RF-101 tanks thread. By discarding drawings and studying only period photographs, I came to the conclusion that the distance between the intake lips and the wing root should be 22-23 mm @1/48 scale. As I was still in doubt of my own conclusion, I decided to cut off the intakes so I could adjust them at will and make them look 'right' to my eyes. To make sure I taped the national insignia in position and used it a reference for the intake length. I discovered at my dismay that it was 2mm short. I filled the gap and got my intake looking right. I check its final length and …know what? It's 22mm long. My old eyeball MK1still has some life in it after all!. I didn't want to include this episode in the WIP as not to add confusion to an already complex build. Now looking back, I find your solution of removing the excess on the wings BEFORE adding the extensions much tidier and easier to do than mine. Other modellers like Tony T. offered the same method but I was too far gone on my trip to reconsider. Thank you for your input, Cheers, Quang 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick_Gannon Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) So having looked at the other thread about fuel tanks, it appears that there are indeed 2 lengths of intake lips and that between the A/C and B model the shape changed due to the engines. So correct me If I am wrong, if you decide to model a very early aircraft you would have to shorten the intakes, if doing a later block number aircraft you would have to lengthen the intakes for A/C aircraft, the splitter plates change as they are for a B model reduced in length from the standard kit or replace them. In the tank thread it says that the intakes were lengthened by 11 inches which in 1/48 scale is 5.82mm. Now before I plow into a £35.00 kit and start cutting up the intakes to correct them, I would like little bit more information as to what is the right length of inlet to wing root and the size of the splitter plate for an early and late A/C, is that possible? I am not asking as to how to modify the parts I have sorted a method that will work for me. It has also been stated that the A/C inlet angle to fueslage is 90 degree's to the centre line of the aircraft, but there are some photos that show there is a slight taper rearward on the top of the inlet and that it increase around the out edge of the inlet which makes the bottom taper greater than the top, am I missing this or just adding to the confusion. Mick Edited April 17, 2019 by Mick_Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 All depends on the aircraft you are modelling. My personal interest is in the single seat fighter versions, the A models tend to have the shorter intakes. The bulk of the recce birds followed on construction after the fighters stopped, so chances are they will be longer intakes. Once you have decided on the bird you wish to model, look up it's Bu number and it will tell you which production batch it belongs to. -10 and above have the longer intakes. Ignore the B and F series as the two holer kit is correct as far as the intake shapes go. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolay Polyakov Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Mick_Gannon said: So correct me If I am wrong, if you decide to model a very early aircraft you would have to shorten the intakes, if doing a later block number aircraft you would have to lengthen the intakes for A/C aircraft, the splitter plates change as they are for a B model reduced in length from the standard kit or replace them. For an F-101A is enough just to cut an intakes to make a 90 degree angle to the fuselage and shortening the splitter plate. For the «C» model with an extended intakes, I’ll recommend to taking the Quang’s approach (or just use a provided additional parts). The «A/C» and the «B» kits have a different splitter plates, even if they are the same length. Notice how short the splitter plates on an F-101A: Cheers! 😎 Edited April 17, 2019 by Nikolay Polyakov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 1 hour ago, Mick_Gannon said: Now before I plow into a £35.00 kit and start cutting up the intakes to correct them, I would like little bit more information as to what is the right length of inlet to wing root and the size of the splitter plate for an early and late A/C, is that possible? I am not asking as to how to modify the parts I have sorted a method that will work for me. It has also been stated that the A/C inlet angle to fueslage is 90 degree's to the centre line of the aircraft, but there are some photos that show there is a slight taper rearward on the top of the inlet and that it increase around the out edge of the inlet which makes the bottom taper greater than the top, am I missing this or just adding to the confusion. Hi Mick, The right length from inlet lips to the wing root? Nobody knows for sure. Add to that that on some a/c there's an add-on sleeve which covers the wing root. Long intake Short intake As for the inlet and intake ramp, you will find the measurements HERE thanks to US modeller Fotios Rouch. The Voodoo is full of deceptions and delusions, a shape-shifting kind of a beast. Most obvious is the dihedral of the tailplane. Sometimes you see it, sometimes you don't. As for the intakes, even on my model, sometimes I see a taper or a sweep, sometimes I don't. That would explain why a simple 3-view drawing is useless –and can even be misleading– with such a collection of complex shapes. Hope it helps, Quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick_Gannon Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Thanks for the detailed reply, so I can clearly see that C intakes are longer, A intakes are shorter, Bentwaters 81tfw made the statement that the length of lip to wing root should be 17mm but add 5.82mm(11 inches) to that you get 22.82 mm you got 22mm after adding 2mm to the length of the intake, so IMHO this is a good starting point as to where to add material. On a different note how do you add pictures to a post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted April 19, 2019 Author Share Posted April 19, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, Mick_Gannon said: Thanks for the detailed reply, so I can clearly see that C intakes are longer, A intakes are shorter, Bentwaters 81tfw made the statement that the length of lip to wing root should be 17mm but add 5.82mm(11 inches) to that you get 22.82 mm you got 22mm after adding 2mm to the length of the intake, so IMHO this is a good starting point as to where to add material. Personally, I feel it would be better 1mm longer (23mm). Anyhow I feel vindicated. Thanks Mick. 7 hours ago, Mick_Gannon said: On a different note how do you add pictures to a post? First, you have to choose an image hosting site: imgr, flicker, imgbb, .... Upload your photo to the site You will be provided with a link to your photo under several formats (embed codes): direct link, HTML, BBCode, ... Choose BBCode. The link should begin with and end with [img/] Copy the link and paste it to your post. HTH Cheers, Quang Edited April 19, 2019 by quangster 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quangster Posted April 19, 2019 Author Share Posted April 19, 2019 (edited) Edited April 19, 2019 by quangster 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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