Hewy Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 (edited) 10 hours ago, Badder said: suitable figures to be poking/prodding/staring-at-the-engine-and-shaking-their-heads That Sounds like my local garage badder, maybe a sharp intake of breath and a "it'll be expensive this, but we'll see what we can do" you might find these figures in Halfords, or any other main dealer🤣 Edited April 7, 2019 by Hewy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 (edited) On 06/04/2019 at 18:23, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Great work on the whole engine unit and compartment. The tracks look the business as well. True its not the most ideal to paint it that way. but filling the gaps first is probably best. I myself am avoiding most of that. I have a vignette in mind and the entire lower hull will be virtually invisible unless you pick up the model. Oh i was able to finally log on today. Mike and his team must’ve been working overtime to get people unblocked. Dennis Hi Dennis. Great you have had your connection/logging in issues resolved! Thank you for your comments about the engine compartment and tracks. I am quite pleased with the engine bay. This is my first AFV engine model. I have made, detailed and painted a couple of aircraft engines in 1/48 but nothing this size. There's a couple of bits I think I could have done better but it is mostly going to be hidden. On 06/04/2019 at 19:08, Hewy said: The engine compartment is a real gem stix, that looks very nice, shame you can't see the engine full on but nevertheless it creates a superb focal point Hi Glynn and thank you. I have seem a couple of completed models of this kit with the hatches open over the engine compartment and I think, with careful photography, it may be visible enough to make it worthwhile spending the time on it. On 06/04/2019 at 20:04, modelling minion said: That really is fantastic, both the painting and the added extras, I particularly like the drive belts, a very nice touch. Hi Craig and thank you for your comments. The drive belts are molded as parts in the kit - I just painted them - so I can't claim anything more than that! On 07/04/2019 at 00:39, wimbledon99 said: The engine is a piece all by itself!! Such a shame you you can't depict it outside the main build! I only say this as so much of it is hidden and it's a model with a model Hi Nigel and thank you. I did wonder about having the engine being hoisted out, or alongside, but it would have meant additional scenic stuff which I don't think I'd have time for. It's not hat long until the Tiger STGB starts! On 07/04/2019 at 08:34, BerndM said: Great work in the engine bay and it is good to have photos from. Hi Bernd and thank you. Yes the photos above will show what can't be seen! On 07/04/2019 at 10:02, Badder said: Hi Stix, Superb progress on the Ford GT40 Pershing. Sorry, the mid-engine rear wheel drive set-up confused me for a moment. I don't know if you're planning a vignette/diorama, but assume you are going to stick with the 'engine covers open' plan. I'll be doing that with my Tiger I and have been searching for suitable figures to be poking/prodding/staring-at-the-engine-and-shaking-their-heads. Whilst not an extensive search, I did come across Fields of Glory kit of 3 WWII German figures 'Winter Painting' their tank. They are wearing overalls and no headgear, so could easily pass off as American etc and their paint brushes could be replaced by spanners, wrenches hammers. The kit is resin, but price-wise no more than I'd expect to pay for plastic. If you, or anyone else is interested, I will try to find the link. Rearguards, Badder Hi Badder and thank you for your comments. I can see why there's the confusion with regards the engine! Yes I'm still planning on having the hatches open - I'm reasonably happy with how the engine has turned out - as I mentioned above - it's the first I have attempted for a tank. Thank you for the tip about the figures. I think I'm going to use the couple of mechanics from this set which I managed to locate in the stash last weekend - I originally bought them for the Sherman STGB but wanted something different for that project : The arms on the kneeling figure may require some adjustment but I will see. 19 hours ago, Bullbasket said: Brilliant work on the engine bay Stix. I hope that it can still be seen when it's finished as it would be a shame to lose it. John. Hi John and thank you. I think the engine will be partially visble when it's done.....luckily the hatch areas are quite large. Right - not a huge update today - part of yesterday was spent gardening!! The upper hull deck is now glued in place and I have filled the odd gaps that were quite visble: I'm not worrying too much about the ejector pin marks on the undersides of the fender overhang - they'll have some mud applied at some point to disguise them! I've also added the support brackets on the side fenders plus the two front hatches: I am wondering about replacing those very fine handles on the rear part of the two hatches. They look a bit too fine to me. I'm going to fit the vision block guards after I have applied the paint.......I'm too likely to damage them when I'm brushing the paint on. Final job yesterday was cutting all the running gear parts and wheels from the sprue runners - ready for removing all the seam lines! There are a lot! I am leaving some sprue runners attached so I have something to hold when I paint: During the evenigs this week I'm thinking I'll keep adding ten track links at a time, plus file off the seam lines from all the wheels and running gear parts. Not going to be the most exciting of jobs but it needs to be done. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix Edited April 8, 2019 by PlaStix 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Really coming together Stix, the figures look like a good choice and will make another nice diorama. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BerndM Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 Looking good. The figures are a nice addition to this build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Wasley Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 Coming along nicely Stix,this is fun strolling around looking at all these builds,kind of feel like a nosy neighbour looking over the fence.Hope no one has a dog.Cheers. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) On 08/04/2019 at 21:09, modelling minion said: Really coming together Stix, the figures look like a good choice and will make another nice diorama. Thank you Craig. Hopefully I will be able to get the poses altered to suit the Pershing. On 09/04/2019 at 10:31, BerndM said: Looking good. The figures are a nice addition to this build. Thank you Bernd. On 10/04/2019 at 04:23, Jim Wasley said: Coming along nicely Stix,this is fun strolling around looking at all these builds,kind of feel like a nosy neighbour looking over the fence.Hope no one has a dog.Cheers. Hi Jim and thank you. Yes it's fun to see what everyone is up to on similar builds. I have been able to get something done most evening's this past week and, with a day off on Friday, progress has been quite good. Mostly I have been building some of the sub-assemblies as well as cleaning up lots of parts ready for painting. You will also be able to see I now have both sets of tracks complete: I have also built up most of the turret: I also added the bit of PE to the additional glacis armour plate: You may notice that I have avoided cleaning up the rest of the wheels and running gear parts! I will probably get around to them tomorrow. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix Edited April 13, 2019 by PlaStix 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Hello stix, nice to see a bit more progress, and I don't blame you for leaving the wheels for a while 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Ah yes the wheels, never anybody's favourite part of the build, really can't blame you for putting them off either. Good progress on the turret and the sub-assemblies Stix. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Hello Stix, Really good work so far. Im looking forward to the next stage when the painting begins. The techniques you’ve developed for brushing still blow my mind. I also think in some ways, your work is better than airbrushing. Dennis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) Hi Stix, When it comes to removing the seam lines on the wheels, I always glue the inner and outer wheels together first, then remove both seam lines the same time. I also do the same with gate marks, fixing the wheels together so that the gate marks are each at '12 o'clock' (for example) and then filing both off at the same time. Most likely you are well aware of this 'time saving' method, but others might not be. Good progress. It's a fine looking kit. With regards to the tank crew kit - that has to be my most 'oft' purchased kit ever! I think I bought 4 of those for the M3/M4 STGB, and messed 3 up one way or another (I did fail in adjusting some poses and had some painting disasters as well) I do have an 'untouched' set in the stash that I will get around to one day! The commander figure wouldn't sit believably on my Sherman Easy 8 - he's better suited to earlier types - but hopefully he'll fit your Pershing. Rearguards, Badder Edited April 13, 2019 by Badder 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 9 minutes ago, Badder said: same with gate marks, fixing the wheels together so that the gate marks are each at '12 o'clock' (for example) and then filing both off at the same time. I wasn't until you let on in the panzer gb, I do it now though, top tip badder 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimbledon99 Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 Nice progress, Stix!! Good luck with the wheels 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted April 15, 2019 Author Share Posted April 15, 2019 (edited) On 13/04/2019 at 21:37, Hewy said: Hello stix, nice to see a bit more progress, and I don't blame you for leaving the wheels for a while Hi Glynn and thank you. I enjoy making tanks more than anything else at the moment but the wheels still make me wonder why!! On 13/04/2019 at 21:45, modelling minion said: Ah yes the wheels, never anybody's favourite part of the build, really can't blame you for putting them off either. Good progress on the turret and the sub-assemblies Stix. Hi Craig and thank you for your comments. Most of this kit, so far, seems to be going okay although there are a couple of places where there are indeterminate locations for parts. On 13/04/2019 at 22:29, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Hello Stix, Really good work so far. Im looking forward to the next stage when the painting begins. The techniques you’ve developed for brushing still blow my mind. I also think in some ways, your work is better than airbrushing. Dennis Thank you Dennis and painting has started but you are way too kind. On 13/04/2019 at 22:35, Badder said: Hi Stix, When it comes to removing the seam lines on the wheels, I always glue the inner and outer wheels together first, then remove both seam lines the same time. I also do the same with gate marks, fixing the wheels together so that the gate marks are each at '12 o'clock' (for example) and then filing both off at the same time. Most likely you are well aware of this 'time saving' method, but others might not be. Good progress. It's a fine looking kit. With regards to the tank crew kit - that has to be my most 'oft' purchased kit ever! I think I bought 4 of those for the M3/M4 STGB, and messed 3 up one way or another (I did fail in adjusting some poses and had some painting disasters as well) I do have an 'untouched' set in the stash that I will get around to one day! The commander figure wouldn't sit believably on my Sherman Easy 8 - he's better suited to earlier types - but hopefully he'll fit your Pershing. Rearguards, Badder Hi Badder and thank you for you comments and suggestion. Yes I have seen your suggestion before about removing the seams from the wheels and I think it's a great idea for those with airbrushes but, because I brush paint I tend to want to paint all the wheels while they are still on the sprues individually. The outer and inner wheels will be on the sprue runners until I have painted them with a base coat, added a couple of washes and dry-brushed them with a lighter version of the base coat. I will also paint the tires while they are still on the sprue and then add a dust wash.. With regards the figures - as I mentioned - I was going to use them for my Sherman STGB project but my idea went in a different direction. Hopefully I will have better luck than you did in getting them to 'fit' the Pershing. 21 hours ago, wimbledon99 said: Nice progress, Stix!! Good luck with the wheels Hi Nigel and thank you. I did do some more work on this project yesterday but, although it took a while to do, there doesn't seem to be much to show. First up I got the wheels and all the running gear parts cleaned up. On nearly everything there were significant seams and in a couple of places the moulds were mis-matched. The photo shows the stuff (mostly) for one side - so theres was twice as much to do as this!!: Lots of filing and scraping! Then I started painting. Just recently I was able to pick up some of the newly packaged Humbrol tubs of paint. They are taller than the old ones and have a flip lid: I'm assuming that the paint inside is still the same but I'm not sure. For one thing it seems to dry out on my mixing plate a lot quicker than the similar paint in the smaller screw top pots. I noticed this with their newly packaged matt White paint that I got first a while back. It seems to apply really nicely and brushes well but a late on discoverery with the Olive Drab was that, once fully dry, it doesn't seem to take my usual washes in the same way. They pool a lot more on the surface than they did on the previous paint. Now it may be something about the combination of paint and Hobbybosses plastic, or something else, The problem is that I had got a fair bit of this project painted when I realised the washes didn't apply as well. I think I have a work around and I did some experimenting on the inside set of wheels and the results weren't hideous. I will wait and see - especially when I come to do the washes on larger areas. I cannot be bothered to repaint it all!! The issue is, because I brush paint, the kind of pre-shading that airbrush uses are able to do doesn't really work as well with brush painting so I rely on my washes and dry-brushing for my base weathering effects. If I can't use them on this project I may be a little stuck!! I've still got a fair bit to paint yet and I'm going to keep going with the washes and dry-brushing. I plan to try and get some work done in the evenings and, with a long weekend approaching, I'd really like get the majority of the main painting and base weathering completed. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix Edited April 15, 2019 by PlaStix 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 29 minutes ago, PlaStix said: because I brush paint I tend to want to paint theall the wheels while they are still on the sprues individually. Silly me! I forgot! Although, I will suggest (and again, I'm sure you know this) that the tyres are easier to paint off the sprue - mounted and twizzled on a cocktail stick with the brush held stationary against the tyre? Rearguards, Badder. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 2 hours ago, Badder said: mounted and twizzled on a cocktail stick with the brush held stationary against the tyre? Or us modernistas with our airbrushes (no offence stix) can use a nifty multi tank wheel masking tool, to be found in most teenagers pencil cases, 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoftScience Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 Hi Styx. Thanks for showing the engine. It's really nice to see one built up, as I do t think I've seen one done anyplace else on the web. I'm also not sure I'll be installing the one in my kit. It's also interesting to see the slight differences between the turrets of the two versions of this tank we're building (eg. The split loader's hatch on yours). Your efforts have been inspiring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 Good to see some green paint on her Stix, interesting to hear that the new packaged paint seems to be different to the stuff in the older pots. Hopefully you will be able to get your usual washes to work as well with it as you did with the older paint. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 Whatever the trials are that you're experiencing with this paint are, it looks to have gone on OK. You could always try adding some paint retarder to slow down the drying. John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 (edited) On 15/04/2019 at 14:04, Badder said: Silly me! I forgot! Although, I will suggest (and again, I'm sure you know this) that the tyres are easier to paint off the sprue - mounted and twizzled on a cocktail stick with the brush held stationary against the tyre? Rearguards, Badder. Hi Badder. Thank you again for the tip but I prefer painting the tyres while the wheels are still on the sprue runner - I'm just odd with my modelling preferences! I find it easier with more to hold than a cocktail stick - I find I can’t keep it as stable. On 15/04/2019 at 16:24, Hewy said: Or us modernistas with our airbrushes (no offence stix) can use a nifty multi tank wheel masking tool, to be found in most teenagers pencil cases, Yeah, yeah......just rub it in for us old guys stuck in the dark ages of modelling! On 20/04/2019 at 05:20, SoftScience said: Hi Styx. Thanks for showing the engine. It's really nice to see one built up, as I do t think I've seen one done anyplace else on the web. I'm also not sure I'll be installing the one in my kit. It's also interesting to see the slight differences between the turrets of the two versions of this tank we're building (eg. The split loader's hatch on yours). Your efforts have been inspiring. Hi SoftScience and thank you. I have to say I struggled to find images of the built up engine - apart from those already in place under the rear deck. Hopefully other modellers thinking of making it will find it useful to see the photos even though I'm not sure how accurate my engine is as there were, as you said, no easily available decent pictures of the actual full engine in it's compartment or built models of it. And yes - I was intrigued to see the differences in the turrets. 22 hours ago, modelling minion said: Good to see some green paint on her Stix, interesting to hear that the new packaged paint seems to be different to the stuff in the older pots. Hopefully you will be able to get your usual washes to work as well with it as you did with the older paint. Hi Craig and thank you for your comments. Yes it is odd (and annoying) about the paint. It actually goes on really well and covers nicely in about three thinned coats. The problem when it's dry is that it doesn’t seem to react in the same way to washes. It repels any paint that is very thinned. Normal coats go over it perfectly. Very thinned, watery paints seem to sit on the surface. Luckily I have found a sort of way around the issue - I will explain it below. 11 hours ago, Bullbasket said: Whatever the trials are that you're experiencing with this paint are, it looks to have gone on OK. You could always try adding some paint retarder to slow down the drying. John. Hi John and thank you for your comments. Yeah the paint goes in well but does seem to dry out quickly on my mixing plate. I haven’t used a paint retarder before. Do you have any suggestions for one which I should be looking for for Revell and Humbrol Acrylics please? I have been doing bits and pieces on this project but the Easter Weekend has meant I haven't had as much time on it and I haven’t had as much time to comment on other's builds on Britmodeller. I have been checking them out though and some do seem to be coming along really well. My primary concern was my washes not settling onto the new paint I have been using. As I mentioned above; it seemed to just pool on the main surface rather than around any detail. Anyway I ended up experimenting with very, very, very thinned washes of Revell's Gunship Grey. Usually my washes are what could be described as very, very thinned and settle mostly evenly across the surface as well as in and around any detail. The very, very, very thinned wash still pooled in places but, because there was so little paint content in the wash it dried almost like a misting effect across the whole surface and, where it did settle in a pool, the effect wasn't as noticeable and, in fact, could be rubbed away with my finger or thumb. This surface covering seemed to act as a suitable key for further effects. So in the photos below the parts have been given a very, very, very thinned wash of Revell's Gunship Grey Acrylic paint which I applied in small sections rather than all over. Then I applied a very, very thinned wash of Revell's Anthracite in and around the detail. Finally I dry brushed everything with a lightened version of the base coat of Humbrol's Olive Drab to which I added some Matt Yellow and a touch of Humbrol Army Green: I also got some thinned Revell's Anthracite applied to the parts that will next be given a dry-brushing of Humbrol’s Gunmetal, including the tracks: I'm hoping to get some more done over the next few days. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix Edited April 22, 2019 by PlaStix 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 Great to see that you have sorted out the wash issue, the hull seems to be really coming to life with your usual treatment. It will only get better from here too! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 1 hour ago, PlaStix said: Yeah, yeah......just rub it in for us old guys stuck in the dark ages of modelling! Old and gold stix, old and gold, I knew you'd sort it out , come the end of days when technology is forgotten, you'll carry on, others won't know what to do, it'll just be plastic and decals for us (just like when I was 9)your brush painting will still take the day 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, PlaStix said: I'm not sure how accurate my engine is as there were, as you said, no easily available decent pictures of the actual full engine in it's compartment Maybe a bit late Stix, but does this help. http://www.williammaloney.com/Aviation/AAFTankMuseum/TankEngines/FordV8TankEngine/index.htm Good to see you may have found a way around the new paints so you can weather them. Dennis Edited April 22, 2019 by Corsairfoxfouruncle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 13 hours ago, PlaStix said: Hi John and thank you for your comments. Yeah the paint goes in well but does seem to dry out quickly on my mixing plate. I haven’t used a paint retarder before. Do you have any suggestions for one which I should be looking for for Revell and Humbrol Acrylics please? I can't think of any specifics at the moment, but if you have an art supplies shop near you, they would be the best ones to advise you. John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted April 26, 2019 Author Share Posted April 26, 2019 On 22/04/2019 at 21:31, modelling minion said: Great to see that you have sorted out the wash issue, the hull seems to be really coming to life with your usual treatment. It will only get better from here too! Hi Craig. You are most kind. Yeah the very, very, very thinned wash seemed to do the trick of giving further layers something to key to. On 22/04/2019 at 22:40, Hewy said: Old and gold stix, old and gold, I knew you'd sort it out , come the end of days when technology is forgotten, you'll carry on, others won't know what to do, it'll just be plastic and decals for us (just like when I was 9)your brush painting will still take the day Hi Glynn. Thank you for your comments and we'lll have to wait and see! On 22/04/2019 at 22:45, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Maybe a bit late Stix, but does this help. http://www.williammaloney.com/Aviation/AAFTankMuseum/TankEngines/FordV8TankEngine/index.htm Good to see you may have found a way around the new paints so you can weather them. Dennis Hi Dennis. Thank you for the link and your comments. The website is good but I already had quite a few photos and diagrams of the engine itself - it's everything else attached to it and the compartment itself that seems to be lacking in photos and images online. On 23/04/2019 at 10:16, Bullbasket said: I can't think of any specifics at the moment, but if you have an art supplies shop near you, they would be the best ones to advise you. John. Hi John. Not had chance to get to an art shop yet but when I do I will ask. When I have had chance I have been plodding along with bits and pieces. The tracks were first dry brushed with Humbrol’s Gunmetal: Before I gave them a very thinned wash of Humbrol’s Dessert Yellow: I still need to add a variety of other washes before they will be fitted in place. The road wheels have now been painted and the base weathering started: I have also done the weathering on the lower hull sides plus added the suspension arms. Hopefully you will be able to see that the arms have been fitted so the front of the tank looks to be sitting lower. It was @SleeperService who mentioned that the weight of the additional armour lowered the front: A couple of photos with the turret in place: Then the return rollers were fitted: Finally I got the road wheels glued in place: I'm hoping to get more done over the weekend. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 Here we go! This is where the real magic starts to happen. The tracks look better than anything I could do already, the Desert Yellow really works well. I really like what you have done with the lower hull, very effective indeed. Can't wait for the next installment!! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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