Priming question

[hammett98]

Hi All,

 

Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere - I couldnt find anything as most questions relate to using a primer or not.

 

My question is, can you use a primer as a main top coat? The reason I ask is that I have a model car kit that Ive primed in stynylrez matt black and I like it so much on this particular kit that Id like to use it as the main colour. I was wondering about going over it with Tamiya and using their matt coat to get a really flat matt black but then with the primer looking so good I thought why?

 

Also, when you guys do a lot of masking jobs, do you spray down a matt coat to protect the paint underneath to stop the tape pulling small bits up? Im imaging thats the solution but wondered if I was doing something else wrong.

 

Many thanks for you help in advance,

Simon

[spruecutter96]

Hi, Simon.

 

If the matt black primer coat looks good on its own and does a good job of coverage, then why not leave it as it is? I'm sure that some modelling purists would say this is some form of "cheating", but I would heartily disagree with them low-slung vultures. 

 

As for your second question, it is usually well-worth laying down a matt coat before using any masking-tape, as you can never be 100% sure that the masking will not lift small sections of not-quite-cured paint. Some lifted paint is easy to touch-up and other instances are more trouble than their worth.... so why not eliminate the risk? I always try and give matt-coats a minimum of 48 hours to dry, but several days is safer. That's probably why I tend to have two kits on the go at any one time.

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Chris. 

 

Chris.  

[bmwh548]

There's no rule against using primer as "paint". If the finish and color is to your liking then why not? 

I don't usually spray clearcoats until I'm done painting. I don't have adhesion problems with Tamiya paints so you probably shouldn't worry. If you want to be on the safe side you can always do a gentle de-tack of the masking tape on the back of your hand. Make sure the paint you're masking is fully cured (especially glossy paints can be tricky), I normally leave it a good 48 hours if it's enamel or normal acrylic, if it's lacquer I can mask it after an hour with no worries. And try not to leave the tape on for too long, it can develop a strong bond with the paint and lift it or it can leave residue behind and you'll have a hard time cleaning it.

[Rabbit Leader]

There’s a couple of good points already suggested above. If your really happy with your primer coat, leave it!! You’ll only be disappointed if you apply a similar top coat and something goes wrong. Paint lifting after masking is everyones bug bear which is why I tend to use Lacquer paints over other types of paint (where possible). De-taking tape and removing it not long after you’ve painted is also a wise step. 

 

I’ve not had any need to apply a Matt coat in between paint sessions, however this may be due to my Lacquer paint preference. On top of all that different paint brands have different adhesive qualities. This is all down to trial and error however I find Gunze and Tamiya paints always serve me well. 

 

Cheers.. Dave 

[fewr9fkr9595]

@hammett98

 

i have done a car too in the past with just black stynylrez and left that as the main colour. 

 

Had a scrap tamiya 1/24 nsx that I repainted like that, a kind of pre season nude/bare carbon paint job. Did the wheels gloss black. 

 

Never RFI’d it however will dig some pics out and perhaps put it up over the weekend. 

 

Also not a car, but I have done a felix figure all with stynylrez colours, primer and topcoat all in one! 

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235042093-felix-the-cat-vf-31-‘tomcatters’-aries-resin-90mm/

[hammett98]

Thanks so much for the input guys - @Tony Oliver love the finish on the felix!