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Fw 190 one shot ship killer


Valkyrie

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gosh she looks good, well done :thumbsup:

 

Once you start playing with an airbrush there's no turning back, they are awesome!  To start with and really just to get use to a double action airbrush just get one of those really cheap Chinese knock-offs. They won't last and are not the best quality but are great to start off with and you can get some of them with multiple size nozzles/needles (only paid $30 for my set). I painted a lot of models with those (I had 3) and were great to learn with. Then I went all in and got one of these beauties :wub:

 

https://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/infinity.html#infinitysolo

 

Mine is the Two in One model but with 0.2 & 0.4mm nozzle sets, though I only seem to use the .0.2mm for everything, gee I even drag it out to paint really small stuff that I should really paint with a brush! They're not cheap though, but I find it's perfect for just about any job, especially at very low pressures with ultra thinned paint, ~90% thinner. I thin back all my paint (except lacquers) but 50% straight up, then vary it further depending on what I'm painting. Cleanings a breeze as well, acrylics are super easy, just water then I use Vallejos Airbrush cleaner, great stuff. For Enamels and Lacquer based paints Alclad's Airbrush cleaner is the only way to go for me. I generally strip back and clean my airbrush after each session.

 

 

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It all sounds like a lot to take in and think about cripes, baths, nozzles, pressure, thinning 

Great advice thanks, il look for a beginner set up to get used to it 

I am a kind of all the gear-no idea type lol 

 

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2 hours ago, Valkyrie said:

It all sounds like a lot to take in and think about cripes, baths, nozzles, pressure, thinning 

It does but once you get used to it the results can be worth the effort and pain of practice. I have a few old models i use as paint mules. I just use them over and over for practice. I also used paper to try to do fine lines and mottling so i could do my Luftwaffe builds. Thinning the paint and pressure are what you need to get used to the most. Once you do its all second nature. 

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I think that with spraying ,masking is an art that needs mastering and there are several methods that will enable softer / harder edges .

 

I hardley ever need to strip my airbrushes down unless lumps get in or i dont clean well enough .

 

I use an Iwata Eclipse  HP-CS for most work and

an Iwata Hi line for mottles and squiggles . This will be released from its pen for my storch and Hs 129

 

Bothe of thses are expensive when new but i got them second hand . I would always go pre used good quality rather than new cheeper quality .

have been useing the HP-CS for around 15 years and only needed to replace the needle and nozzel once .

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It's not really "needed" per say, but does help reduce the risk of pressure surging.  You can always plumb in a small tank in between the compressor & regulator to get the same benefits.  How much effect a tank will make will vary depending on the compressor (size, motor rpm, duty cycle).  If you already have a compressor and you haven't noticed any pulsing, you probably don't need to worry about it.  A decent regulator should be able to handle any surging of the compressor.  A tank just makes life easier on all the components (compressor pump isn't running all the time, regulator doesn't have to contend w/ as large of pressure pulses).

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47 minutes ago, helios16v said:

It's not really "needed" per say, but does help reduce the risk of pressure surging.  You can always plumb in a small tank in between the compressor & regulator to get the same benefits.  How much effect a tank will make will vary depending on the compressor (size, motor rpm, duty cycle).  If you already have a compressor and you haven't noticed any pulsing, you probably don't need to worry about it.  A decent regulator should be able to handle any surging of the compressor.  A tank just makes life easier on all the components (compressor pump isn't running all the time, regulator doesn't have to contend w/ as large of pressure pulses).

 

Thanks, Chris. I have a compressor but I haven't used it or the airbrush since a few tests and a bit on one kit, way back in the early 90's. After that, 3 kids, work and life in general kind of got in the way. Now that I've retired and the kids are adults now, I'm thinking of using the airbrush on my Hurricane build. I've got some Aqueous Hobby Color paint and a new bottle of Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. If it ever stops snowing here and warms up, I'll put a fan in the window and fire it up.

 

 

Chris

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3 hours ago, dogsbody said:

So, is an air tank needed? If I'm using low pressure and painting 1/72, will I still get pulsing?

I don't have a tank and don't have that issue with my compressor. Though it can be annoying with the compressor constantly running ? Thats the only reason i wish i had a tank. 

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17 hours ago, Valkyrie said:

It all sounds like a lot to take in and think about cripes, baths, nozzles, pressure, thinning 

Great advice thanks, il look for a beginner set up to get used to it 

I am a kind of all the gear-no idea type lol 

 

The sonic bath is really cheap. Only about $30.00 if I remember right. Easy to use and there are some tuts on it on You tube.  

Make sure you get a double action airbrush.

 

Rich

The airbrush I have trouble with is my H.S. Infinity. The paint always seems to spit and the brush clogs up all the time.

Do you have any advice for me? I may have asked this question before, but my memory isn't as bad as it used it be. It is worse.....

I will be onto some tricky mottling work on my Me 262 shortly. I'm putting the second one together now. 

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some of the new small compressors don't need a tank at all and provide smooth pressure/flow and are super quiet. I have a cheap workshop one form the local hardware chain, only cost $90 Aus. Though I do want to upgrade to one of the quiet new ones as some stage.

 

10 hours ago, Greg Law said:

The airbrush I have trouble with is my H.S. Infinity. The paint always seems to spit and the brush clogs up all the time.

Do you have any advice for me? I may have asked this question before, but my memory isn't as bad as it used it be. It is worse.....

I will be onto some tricky mottling work on my Me 262 shortly. I'm putting the second one together now. 

I get that sometimes, if you're using the fine nozzles then the paint does have to be really thin. The other thing I know will cause splattering is it really needs to be clean, like any super high quality thing it loves attention and cleaning. The biggest cause for of splatting I find is a poor seal around the nozzle. There's a white seal on the back of the nozzle, this needs to be super clean and have a good seal or it'll give you no end of trouble. Plus if the nozzles a bit old pop off this seal and turn it around, works like a now one. I may replace it soon, it's nearly 3 years old, I stuffed (cracked) the original one, I've noticed that the needle sticks out a lot further now than it originally did.

 

IMG_2880.jpg

 

I don't use the nozzle protector, it just clogs up. Plus if you're using Tamiya or Mr Hobby paints then try thinning with Tamiya Lacquer thinners, this stuff is amazing. It's as good as a levelling solution, dries just was quick but the finish is sooo much better and goes nice and hard compared to normal.

 

Plus after finishing painting I'll run a wee bit of Vallejo Airbrush cleaner through it and leave a tiny amount sitting in it, if I'm not painting for a few days or more I'll take out the needle. Again before using or re-fitting the needles I'll add a few drops of the Vallejo in the bowl to lube up everything.

 

Mine was a factory second or return, it had something work with the original red barrel so they replaced it and sold it as a 2nd.

 

IMG_2879.jpg

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Thanks Rich. I will check that seal. I've only used the brush half a dozen times. Yet I have been having trouble with right from the beginning. I know it has to be something I'm doing because a friend tried it and it worked fine for him.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Everything is now complete, all we need is some painting of small assemblies a coat of matt varnish, going to try Micro Flat our on this one...then she’s ready. I might try to rig some radio wire 

47817660622_e18bf2f78d_b.jpg

 

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One coat of micro flat. Has dulled it down but it recommends 2 coats. It was thick yellow at the bottom of the bottle but a good stir and flat wide brush sparingly applied and we have this. 4 hours between coats so it will get a second this evening and be first completed 2019 for me. Still 3 in the Specialists to complete, and 4 builds on the go or immediately impending.

46972860365_225a3e34c0_b.jpg

 

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Thanks Cliff. She looks a bit ragged up close but from not too far away not a bad effort. I still consider myself a novice builder but thanks to this site and the people within, I am steadily improving.

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Here she is, ready for a special ship killing mission. Love a Fw 190 and maritime aircraft so had been waiting a long time to attempt it. Thanks for all the tips and encouragement and our gracious hosts, another great job.

47845390862_b80b1a8de4_b.jpg

 

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  • 1 month later...

After seeing your built here I couldn't resist buying a 1/48 Hasegawa version of it when I came across it on Ebay the other day. 

I might do what you did and use the new Eduard kit I bought for decal to use on my Black knights Me 262. 

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well done on completing her, I think you've done a fine job on her, nothing at all to be worried about! :thumbsup:

 

It's nice to see a Fw-190 done up a bit differently than the usual.

 

I do hope you enjoyed the build it was great to have you along. 

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