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1/200 HMS Hood & 1/700 HMS Prince of Wales


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I applied a cheeky little bit of camouflage to the turret before work, but it needs another thinned coat of the MS3 and 507A. The turret top still needs painted in dark anti-slip paint, but I was leaving it a bit late in leaving the house so that's a tonight job. What's also needed is the very intricate camouflage on each 14" gun barrel which is unique to each barrel 😐

 

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I still absolutely, thoroughly and completely despise brush painting, but will finish this (faffing around with thinned coats) but will likely be much faster overall just Blu-tac masking and airbrushing the rest. Brush painting is one of these false economies whereby, like taking a massive detour to avoid a queue in the car, you fool yourself into thinking you're making progress sooner but trying to get a decent finish with a brush takes an order of magnitude longer overall than just spraying the damned thing.

 

 

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Both kits coming along nicely, especially the brush painting!

 

Do not envy you that camo on the PoW. I thought the Naiad camo was bad enough, this is a different level!

 

Geoff 

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1 hour ago, Bugle07 said:

Both kits coming along nicely, especially the brush painting!

 

Do not envy you that camo on the PoW. I thought the Naiad camo was bad enough, this is a different level!

 

Geoff 

 

Yes I suspect it will continue to be a challenge... gulp!

 

I think this kit might be a new favourite. What a delightful little thing. The PE railings were, I think, designed for the May 1941 boxing without the Oerlikon tubs, but that was nothing a couple of strategic presses with a scalpel blade couldn't fix...

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3 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

Thanks!  Not a word to the wife...

I think that may become my modelling mantra...

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17 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

Thanks!  Not a word to the wife...

 

Hi, here's a few snaps from my WIP Hermes kit. I haven't bothered with a thread for this one...

 

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The kit is very nice, but I'm still trying to learn how to work in 1/700. Like the Prince of Wales it comes with a PE fret in the box.

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Crikey, the size of that wee “HMS Hood” you could almost turn it into RC Control one and head off down to the local duck pond to play chase the Bismarck lol.

 

Anyway on a more serious note Jamie, how are you fitting nice brass barrels to that wonderfully crafted model from Flyhawk? I’ve got to somehow puck the courage to do that my next two Flyhawk builds or my other 4 DKM battle wagon builds.

Edited by Exkiwiforces
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5 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

 

Hi, here's a few snaps from my WIP Hermes kit. I haven't bothered with a thread for this one...

 

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The kit is very nice, but I'm still trying to learn how to work in 1/700. Like the Prince of Wales it comes with a PE fret in the box.

Love the Hermes build btw and I would be keen to know how you are going with this as well. As I have her in the stash to do this coming wet season if it arrives.

Edited by Exkiwiforces
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4 hours ago, Exkiwiforces said:

Anyway on a more serious note Jamie, how are you fitting nice brass barrels to that wonderfully crafted model from Flyhawk? I’ve got to somehow puck the courage to do that my next two Flyhawk builds or my other 4 DKM battle wagon builds.

 

That's fairly straight forward actually - don't be nervous.

 

Usually I do this sort of thing individually but as it's sat on the shelf a while I'd actually forgotten I'd bought the Delux Edition so I had already glued X turret together by the time I realised I had brass barrels for it. I used the front face of the turret to guide the razer saw and cut through all 4 simultaneously. You have to do this as gently and slowly as everything else in this scale, obviously, but it wasn't at all difficult:

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Once they were all cut off, I drilled small pilots in the breach end of the remaining plastic barrels to confirm I had found their centres, then opened these out to 0.6mm holding the bit in my fingers. I like to do this sort of thing by feel as much as sight. A 0.6mm drill in this particular plastic gave a lovely push-fit of the brass barrels. I didn't really need to glue them, but did anyway.

 

These are the types of drill bit I like for modelling:

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Saying that, the 5.25" barrels have very small stubs - probably 0.2 or 0.3mm. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it...

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My 3-4 bags of bits guesstimate was inaccurate. Excluding the barrels, there are 10 bags of ventilators. 3 are turned brass, 7 are cast resin. These are alternatives to injection moulded plastic parts which can be seen in the 3rd photograph. They're nice, but they're more like 1/400 scale.

 

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3 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

I may have found a slight glitch in the instructions, and rather than risk using the wrong bits from something else I'll probably just make these columns from stretched sprue.

 

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Fine work as always Jamie but I can’t help thinking those barrels look a little too long? 

 

Mick

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18 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

 

That's fairly straight forward actually - don't be nervous.

 

Usually I do this sort of thing individually but as it's sat on the shelf a while I'd actually forgotten I'd bought the Delux Edition so I had already glued X turret together by the time I realised I had brass barrels for it. I used the front face of the turret to guide the razer saw and cut through all 4 simultaneously. You have to do this as gently and slowly as everything else in this scale, obviously, but it wasn't at all difficult:

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Once they were all cut off, I drilled small pilots in the breach end of the remaining plastic barrels to confirm I had found their centres, then opened these out to 0.6mm holding the bit in my fingers. I like to do this sort of thing by feel as much as sight. A 0.6mm drill in this particular plastic gave a lovely push-fit of the brass barrels. I didn't really need to glue them, but did anyway.

 

These are the types of drill bit I like for modelling:

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Saying that, the 5.25" barrels have very small stubs - probably 0.2 or 0.3mm. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it...

Jamie,

 

Cheers for the pictures and the soldiers 5 on fitting brass barrels. It’s looks like I have to buy a new tool now and that won’t keep the Minister Of Finance off my back

.

EKF

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I made a mistake which has been pointed out for me when I cut the plastic barrels giving an overall length that was slightly too long. There's nothing in the instructions to indicate where the plastic barrels should be cut. I really should have ignored all of that point-out because what I've done was at very best very foolhardy and could easily have completely destroyed an expensive kit, but I removed the metal barrels again...

 

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...used a 1.5mm drill to drill back the stubs of the plastic barrels, and clean out the swarf with the tip of 10A scalpel blade taking extreme care to avoid shredding the surrounding turret

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...and refitted the barrels with overall length about 2mm shorter.

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I should be pleased with this but actually it's probably the most stupid thing I can remember attempting on a model for a very long time, with very little visible difference and a much greater risk of it going badly wrong than it going right. Even then, I have caused damage that can't be undone so the turrets are now not to be looked at closely.

 

Don't try that at home, boys and girls. It was absolutely mental to do that at this stage.

 

@Exkiwiforces don't copy me - instead cut the barrels off flush with their trunnions before assembling turrets.

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These are the Type 282 radar Yagi antenna pieces included in the basic kit. To be honest, these are superior to anything I've seen in injection moulded plastic in 1/350 so far:

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Nevertheless, the Flyhawk Delux Edition includes 2-piece PE replacements. These are brass bits I dread in 1/350...

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There are nice PE ladders included in the Delux Edition too. These fold easily and fit the plastic parts perfectly (i.e. they neatly fit in the holes and reach the level below whilst inclined at the correct angle!)

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There is quite a lot of assembly high up around the bridge area. I have 2 more Type 282s to make for here, as well as a pair of Type 285s to assemble for the Mk.III HACS.

 

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Parts are beginning to be recognisable as a KGV class though. I'm still very pleased with this kit and am enjoying it.

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