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Heller EC-121/WV-2 WarningStar 1/72


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5 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

Besides the cockpit roof being higher and the nose radome, how close is the Heller nose shape? Think it could just be modified? Should take the cut off nose and make a ground display to put with the plane wen it's done.

There are several problems; the roof is too small, the windows are too small, it is pinched just in front of the cabin, the radome is round while it should be oval. I don't think it can be modified to be correct.

 

Check out this sight for a side by side comparison

http://nabe3saviation.web.fc2.com/modelc121.html

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4 hours ago, hsr said:

There are several problems; the roof is too small, the windows are too small, it is pinched just in front of the cabin, the radome is round while it should be oval. I don't think it can be modified to be correct.

 

Check out this sight for a side by side comparison

http://nabe3saviation.web.fc2.com/modelc121.html

Would be a lot of work to modify, might have to anyway. I like the page you sent, a lot of details shown there, I didn't know that the late production Connies had no operating center rudder. Like the idea for the antenna wiring. Thanks for the link.

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1 minute ago, busnproplinerfan said:

What's the second language in that story in that link?

I don't know. I use Google chrome and it automatically translates it

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Today I; attached the lower radome, blended it and the main wing to the fuselage, cleaned up the tail surfaces and glued them on, and attached the upper radome all in that order. Attaching the lower radome covered up the whole lower back wing seam so saved me a lot of filling. The fit was very good and only required a little filling. After I glued the tail surfaces together I realized that using the alignment pins on the 2 stabilizers introduce a slight but noticeable warp to them. So I had to break them apart cut off the pins and re-glue them and clamped them so they would be straight. Once that was done assembling them to the fuselage was easy. Each side has a tab that fits into a slot in the fuselage, The right side's tab filled the upper half of the slot and reached all the way to the left slot. The left side's tab filled the lower half of the slot and reached all the way to the right side. This makes for a very strong connection and gives perfect alignment. A very nice system. For the upper radome I took the suggestion in the Fisher instructions and wrapper the upper fuselage with sand paper and slide the resin radome back and forth over it to generate perfect matching surfaces. I used 5 minute epoxy to attach it so I would have so working time to get it aligned. Now it really looks like a Connie/WarningStar. 

 

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You can see a small part of my stash in the first picture. That is my stack for next years builds.

 

Tomorrow I will blend in the tail and upper radome and start work on the landing gear.

 

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With any luck I should be able to get the first coat of primer on it tomorrow or Friday. Any words of wisdom on the Plus wheel wells, other then installing the front well before closing the fuselage?

 

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7 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

What's the second language in that story in that link?

According to google it is Japanese 

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9 hours ago, hsr said:

With any luck I should be able to get the first coat of primer on it tomorrow or Friday. Any words of wisdom on the Plus wheel wells, other then installing the front well before closing the fuselage?

Sand, sand, then sand some more. Check little nooks and crannies (as they say) for any roughness or that may not look quite right to your eye, especially around curves, leading edges of wings and tail, seams, and joints...especially where the wings join the fuselage. Even round the tip tanks, Give the resin parts a light sand too...they come pretty smooth and may not take the primer very well without a smooth sanding. When I built my Connie, I installed the wheel wells and all the tiny parts before priming. The advantage was, that they were primed along with the model itself, sealing small seams and gaps around the parts and made detail painting them easier. At any rate, the PE parts must be primed...they won't hold paint at all if they're not. Don't prime the PE parts before you bend and shape them! The primer will crack off and you'll pull your hair out and begin to speak with other tongues! Be careful of bending them; I used a metal straight edge and my Exacto knife to bend them. Wish I had had a PE parts bender tool, but the straight edge worked nicely. The whole PE parts process isn't hard, just tedious, time consuming, and will try your patience. I found that I had to trim a few of the parts to fit properly. Test fit EVERYTHING. Once they're in...they're in. Removing them will destroy them. Go ssslllooowwww. Be patient; think things through before bending PE parts. They have a tendency to flip out from under your straight edge and fly across the workbench or onto the floor, disappear and never be found again. Have fun! Really looking to see good results when you post them. This is a great thread! You're doing marvelously! 😉

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1 hour ago, Challenger350Pilot said:

They have a tendency to flip out from under your straight edge and fly across the workbench or onto the floor, disappear and never be found again.

I am very familiar with that property of PE

 

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Today's work started out really well, but then it was down hill from there. First I blended in the horizontal stabilizer part and the upper radome. No issues and everything went well. Next I started on the front landing gear. Even though I did not use the new resin wheel well I was able to use some of the PE bits with the kit well.

 

bfsM96Ix_o.jpg

 

I used epoxy for the gear for extra strength, (Zap CA+ is my usual go to glue for gluing and filling.) So so far so good, and a quick test show that it won't be a tail sitter.

mC7LzTHr_o.jpg

 

Next I started on the right engine well and in the process of fitting one of the PE parts the right engine broke off. 😱. I think it was from the CA accelerator which will sometimes make the plastic both soft and brittle. I did not get a picture of the break but I did take 2 during the repair

 

qaDGF8Ri_o.jpgLCinnMo7_o.jpg

As you can see it was not a very clean cut so mating it back was imperfect causing a small droop of right inboard engine

 

Pez51nEA_o.jpg

 

The left well went a bit smoother. One takeaway to anyone planning on using the Plus wheel wells is to install parts M23, M24 and M1/2 first, and then install the M22 braces into M21 before installing M21.

 

NuZWkXfi_o.jpg

Clearly PE is not my forte. There is quite a bit more to do and I hoped I would get further along, but I think I have suffered enough for today. There is always tomorrow. 😞

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It really looks good when it's done. Check out picture #6 in "@Challenger350Pilot"'s thread to see how it is supposed to look.

 

 

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1 hour ago, hsr said:

I think it was from the CA accelerator

Not sure but i stopped using accelerator 25 years ago. I found it made the C/A super brittle and cause many issues with expansion. I use gel-type C/A now and it hardens in about one minute. Quicker in a warmer humid environment.  

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It really plays havoc with Italeri plastic and to a lesser extant Hasegawa, so I try to use it sparingly but, I just don't have a steady enough hand to wait for it to dry, and this plastic seemed very hard and seemed to be immune. I'll have to be more careful. I think the worst is over 🤞, so I shouldn't need much more of it.  

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