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Hobbycraft 1/48 Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-11


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Straight from the box, brush-painted using Lifecolor paints.
It's the first one I've completed in a long time, and maybe the fifth since getting back into model-building after a stroke a few years back. I'm quite pleased with it, although I think my RLM83 is perhaps a little off.

 

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Edited by Mainly28s
Updated links to Flickr, show pictures after experimenting
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What Sturmovik says. Normal practice is to post your photos on a hosting site like Flickr, Village Photos, Photobucket (if you must), Postimage and so on and link to that. I've also got a feeling that linking to a Facebook page may incur the displeasure of the moderators.

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On 03/03/2019 at 00:11, Mainly28s said:

brush-painted using Lifecolor paints.
It's the first one I've completed in a long time, and maybe the fifth since getting back into model-building after a stroke a few years back.

without wishing to pry or be rude,  as I don't know how your stoke affected you,  (reduced dexterity ?)

But one thing you may want to try is using thinner coats of paint,  I think Lifecolor can be thinned with just water, and/or a flow improver.   If the paint is drying too fast, you may need a retarder. (slows drying)

I've not tried Lifecolor,  but your paint looks like it went on too thickly, though perhaps it might be light on a varnish coat? Just the RLM 81 looks streaky, and the RLM 83 looks a bit thick.  

 

Acrylics can be a right sod to brush well,  and frequently require a few thin coats.    I have found Vallejo model colour to behave very well, though finding the right colors is a PITA as their descriptions leave something to be desired...

 

Flat brushes help as well.     I can dig out some tutorials on brushing acrylics as well if you would like.

 

You might also want to check out IPMS East Sussex,  they meet in Hailsham

http://www.hailsham-district-scale-model-club.org

 

HTH

T

 

 

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It's a nice model - well built and a great subject - that canopy looks great.  I would echo Troy and say the best way to reduce brushstrokes marks is to use a wide brush and apply thin layers of paint, and slowly build them up, allowing each coat to dry - but with acrylics, this doesn't take long - the process is longer but you'll get a better result. 

 

Cheers

 

 

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Nice looking kit. There's a lot to said for 'straight from the box'. I used to get more fun and satisfaction doing OOB, but these days I always get carried away. Keep it up.

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Thank you for the comments- I'm not really that much into the whole 100% right thing. I'm building as therapy, so will progress at a definitely slow pace. Believe me, I have done my share of trying to perfect models, but know I won't get to that in a hurry. However, I want to improve, and each one I do will be slightly better.

 

Please feel free to make suggestions; I might not immediately incorporate them, but eventually, as I retrain my hand, they will be used.

 

1 hour ago, Troy Smith said:

without wishing to pry or be rude,  as I don't know how your stoke affected you,  (reduced dexterity ?)

But one thing you may want to try is using thinner coats of paint,  I think Lifecolor can be thinned with just water, and/or a flow improver.   If the paint is drying too fast, you may need a retarder. (slows drying)

I've not tried Lifecolor,  but your paint looks like it went on too thickly, though perhaps it might be light on a varnish coat? Just the RLM 81 looks streaky, and the RLM 83 looks a bit thick.  

 

Acrylics can be a right sod to brush well,  and frequently require a few thin coats.    I have found Vallejo model colour to behave very well, though finding the right colors is a PITA as their descriptions leave something to be desired...

 

Flat brushes help as well.     I can dig out some tutorials on brushing acrylics as well if you would like.

 

You might also want to check out IPMS East Sussex,  they meet in Hailsham

http://www.hailsham-district-scale-model-club.org

 

HTH

T

 

 

No worries- nothing bothers me regarding that. The stroke was caused by high cholesterol and stress, and has caused a fairly hefty loss of dexterity in my right hand, along with a nasty case of the shakes whenever I try to do fine work, aggravated by a repeat of most of the warning symptoms last year. There's also a degree of memory loss, and a bit of speech impediment when I get stressed.

 

Oddly enough, the model looks better in real life. I think my photos don't do it justice. However, that said- point taken on the thickness- that's three thin-ish layers, followed by a layer of gloss for the decals, and a layer of matt to tone it down. I think the flat coat is what's caused the streaky look in the pictures.

 

Flat brushes? I may have to try that for the next one (a Spitfire I'm busy with).

 

Yes please on the guides- I'll take any help you have for brushing, as I'm not planning to invest in an airbrush (with my hand control it would be a disaster).

 

Regarding the IPMS- I used to be a member, but I struggle a little with groups, and it causes me anxiety to be in groups of people I don't know, so  I prefer not to participate.

 

20 minutes ago, Kitchen Modeller said:

It's a nice model - well built and a great subject - that canopy looks great.  I would echo Troy and say the best way to reduce brushstrokes marks is to use a wide brush and apply thin layers of paint, and slowly build them up, allowing each coat to dry - but with acrylics, this doesn't take long - the process is longer but you'll get a better result. 

 

Cheers

 

 

Thank you, and I'll try that with the next one.

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Hi

 

Have you tried ordinary enamels (I think they're called that)? Oil based paint like Xtracolor or Humbrol paints? I know everyone is using acrylics these days, great ranges etc, but they do have their drawbacks, very quick drying. Personally, I find them quite hard to apply, even with an airbrush. I used to brush paint gloss enamels, mostly Xtracolor, apply the decals and then bush on flat varnish, and I like to think I got reasonable results. 

 

You've obviously had quite a setback and are working hard to get over it. I'm in awe of your determination!

 

All the best,

 

Charlie

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6 minutes ago, Johnson said:

Hi

 

Have you tried ordinary enamels (I think they're called that)? Oil based paint like Xtracolor or Humbrol paints? I know everyone is using acrylics these days, great ranges etc, but they do have their drawbacks, very quick drying. Personally, I find them quite hard to apply, even with an airbrush. I used to brush paint gloss enamels, mostly Xtracolor, apply the decals and then bush on flat varnish, and I like to think I got reasonable results. 

 

You've obviously had quite a setback and are working hard to get over it. I'm in awe of your determination!

 

All the best,

 

Charlie

I used to use enamels, but switched to acrylics just after 2000. I find the ease of cleaning fantastic, so don't really want to go back to enamels.

Yes, I know, I'm being difficult 😉

 

Determination? I don't know- I'm just too stubborn to quit. I wouldn't want to upset my guardian angel, who has preserved me from bites, bullets, blades, bombs and assorted other harm by not at least trying to get back to the hobby I love.

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19 minutes ago, Mainly28s said:

Flat brushes? I may have to try that for the next one (a Spitfire I'm busy with).

 

Yes please on the guides- I'll take any help you have for brushing, as I'm not planning to invest in an airbrush (with my hand control it would be a disaster).

OK,  both flat brushes and a link to brush painting.

@PlaStix  is an excellent brush painter,  in his sig there is a link to a youtube vid  of his techniques.

 

23 minutes ago, Mainly28s said:

Oddly enough, the model looks better in real life. I think my photos don't do it justice. However, that said- point taken on the thickness- that's three thin-ish layers, followed by a layer of gloss for the decals, and a layer of matt to tone it down. I think the flat coat is what's caused the streaky look in the pictures.

looking at your pics again, I see what you mean, harsh overhead light.  

 

27 minutes ago, Mainly28s said:

I'm not really that much into the whole 100% right thing. I'm building as therapy, so will progress at a definitely slow pace. Believe me, I have done my share of trying to perfect models, but know I won't get to that in a hurry. However, I want to improve, and each one I do will be slightly better.

Given what you have said, then what ever works for you as therapy is a good model! 

35 minutes ago, Mainly28s said:

Regarding the IPMS- I used to be a member, but I struggle a little with groups, and it causes me anxiety to be in groups of people I don't know, so  I prefer not to participate.

OK, makes sense.   I mention clubs as modelling can be a bit solitary, and I don't  meet many folks who I can talk about it too.... so I like chatting away. 

 

Still, BM is a 'virtual club'  and one you can  pick and choose how you interact, and I find it to be a helpful, friendly and supportive community, I hope you will as well.

Look forward more of your work.

cheers

T

 

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Thats a great build! I think modelling is a therapy to us all and i know for fact that this one means a lot. Specially after an episode such as a stroke. Cheers! And keep em comin!!! The dora is a fine bird always!

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