S5 modeller Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Hi chaps. Been away from my bench for too long, one thing and another has prevented me. Found this kit going cheap on hannants website, and I felt a spark, so duely purchased it. I can feel the interest coming back, and thought I'd have a crack at it. Caught my eye, as it's a rather odd looking car, and rather rare in real life. Hope to post some progress in the next day or two. Matt 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 Hi chaps. As promised I have an update. Started last night, and one thing led to another, and I made a fair bit of progress.... Constructed a large section of the flat v12, apparently the same unit used in the Testarossa which the car is based on. I've only built up the main block and heads. There are intakes and more parts to attach, but it will be easier to paint the main block and attach them later. I've attached the large side intakes, taking care to get the best possible fit, to reduce the amount of filling required. I glued the rather strange recessed seats into the Cockpit tub. It's a rather unusual setup and I can't imagine how uncomfortable the real seats would be. I assembled the stearing wheel and instrument binacle to the lower dashboard fairing. That's where I got to Saturday night, 3am! I've done some more work this afternoon, and will post that at a later date. Sorry if the pictures are a bit off, this red plastic is hard to photograph. Matt 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Having done the Tamiya Testarossa, with the same engine, I can't help thinking that with such a high centre of gravity that putting an engine block on top of the gearbox, the handling must be a bit ... let's say... challenging! Cheers, Alan. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 According to form, it handles quite well, but who will ever know? There are only 3 examples in existence, one in the ferrari museum, and two in the private collection of the sultan of Brunei. It shares most of the components of the Testarossa including the tubular chassis and engine, only the bodywork is different. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) Hello again. Time for a small update. Nearly have the engine assembled, will post some pictures later, and have made a start on the body. Thought I would crack on, as I'm away on holiday next week, and it will give the paint chance to harden up nicely. This will be my first serious attempt at a "proper" paint job, including polishing the clear coat up. Not sure how well it will work out, so bear with me. Please feel free to shout out if you see me doing something wrong. Got the body sprayed in humbrol grey acrylic primer. I've sanded it smooth with 2000 grit wet and dry. I've gone through in a couple of places. I intend to use humbrol acrylic "Italian" red, as I couldn't track down a can of tamiya "Italian" red locally. Didn't want to have to wait days for a delivery off of the net. I've given the body a first coat, and am waiting for it to dry. Looks good in the pics, but it has a bit of orange peel to it. I've also sprayed the floor pan in cheap pound shop matt black, although it looks glossy in the photo, the paint it still wet. Now I have a couple of questions. If I sand out the orange peel on the final coat, will I need to polish the paint back to a shine before a clear coat? Which clear coat would you recommend to use with the humbrol paint? I've got alclad aqua gloss, hiroboy 2k clear, pledge polish(new klear), and an old can of humbrol clear gloss. I don't want a nasty reaction to spoil my work. I'm loathed to use the humbrol clear, as in the past it has crazed the paint underneath it, even when it was humbrol paint. Will the hiroboy gloss be incompatible with the humbrol acrylic? Sorry for all the noob questions, but I don't want to ruin the hard work and effort I've put into this kit. I've checked out videos on YouTube, but all of them seem to stick with like for like brands ie tamiya paint and clear varnish. Thanks for looking in. Matt. Edited March 25, 2019 by S5 modeller 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I can't claim to be a paint expert, but I've generally found 1000grit is fine for the colour coat prior to clear. That said, that finish you have on the red is better than the only time I used Humbrol colour paint (lime green on the Cuda) so you're off to a good start. I went over it with the Revell acrylic clearcoat from the spray can and it looks fine to me (appreciate that one wasn't on your list, but there is a good chance of finding it I'd think). If you do use the Revell though, just be aware that it has a bad habit of reacting to the oils in your fingers and leaving fingerprints - which is why I always handle bodies with cotton gloves once the clear is on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 For a high gloss application such as cars, acrylic is simply the wrong finish. It's too delicate for color sanding or polishing. It is better suited to aircraft or military/commercial vehicles. Acrylic Lacquer such as Tamiya or Testors is the preferred choice for this as it dries, quickly and harder and the primers have superior tooth to attach to styrene. Consider it for your next one. If lacquer desired for this one, the acrylic will probably strip off in isopropyl. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 Thanks for the input guys. Seems I'm on a looser from the start then. I'm tempted to strip the body and start again, as I have half a bottle of zero paints ferrari tour de France blue, from a previous build, and might use that instead. Would that, and the zero 2k lacquer be a better proposition for polishing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 If you’re careful with the Zero basecoat and 2K, it should need little if any polishing: If you have a plastic spoon handy to test on, you could try laying down some of the Humbrol red and spraying the Alclad Aqua gloss over it and see what happens. I’ve heard lots of people enthusing about Aqua Gloss for various uses, so it might be OK. If it works, you save yourself the hassle of stripping the Mythos, and if it doesn’t, all you’ve lost is a cheap plastic spoon, and you can strip the car and use the Zero paint... best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 I clear-coated a Porsche 911 in Tamiya X-20 thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner, and polished it up to a reasonable (read, scale) shine with Halfords' finishing compound. So you can get a good shine with water-based acrylics. Cheers, Alan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 Thanks for the further advice guys. Matt, I've read your guide to zero paints numerous times, and it is an invaluable piece of text. It persuaded me to try zero paints in the first place. Alan. It's nice to know that it is possible, to some extent, to polish acrylic finishes. I've got a quandary now, do I strip the body, and go against the evidence it only came in red, and paint it tour de force blue. Or do I carry on on my current route and finish it red? Choices choices. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 OOH IT HAS TO BE RED!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 2 hours ago, BIG X said: OOH IT HAS TO BE RED!!! My thoughts exactly. Think I will continue on my current track, and try for a better finish on another build. Matt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 On 3/2/2019 at 11:11 PM, S5 modeller said: rather rare in real life Forgot about this car . Wasn't this just a concept car by Pinninfarina for a show in Japan , Geneva ? I think somebody ,bit of cash spare , had 2 made for him. In the back of my head somewhere it was based on the Testarossa and kind of morphed to the F50 . I saw an F50 in Spain ,Swiss plates and the driver must have been a bit nuts , he used come past our place in a blur . Spanish side roads can't be counted on as having a constant grip ,he didn't care or even know they bite back . That sounded unbelievable accelerating to redline on each change though. This will be good to watch too ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 (edited) 15 minutes ago, bzn20 said: Forgot about this car . Wasn't this just a concept car by Pinninfarina for a show in Japan , Geneva ? I think somebody ,bit of cash spare , had 2 made for him. In the back of my head somewhere it was based on the Testarossa and kind of morphed to the F50 . I saw an F50 in Spain ,Swiss plates and the driver must have been a bit nuts , he used come past our place in a blur . Spanish side roads can't be counted on as having a constant grip ,he didn't care or even know they bite back . That sounded unbelievable accelerating to redline on each change though. This will be good to watch too ! It was, it was built for the 1990 motor show. Same chassis as a Testarossa, but shorter and wider in the rear. Originally there was only 1 made, but the then sultan of Brunei commissioned Pininfarina to produce him two examples. I believe one was bue, and one was yellow. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_Mythos Edited March 26, 2019 by S5 modeller 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 You could always claim your TDF Blue version is the Sultan of Brunei's blue/turqoise one 😜 I'm not sure why Wikipedia thinks that the F50 in any way evolved from the Mythos; there's quite a difference between the the TR chassis of the Mythos and the Formula 1 construction of the F-50 with its carbon tub and loadbearing engine. And the TR is described as docile, controllable and fully equipped with aircon etc, which is pretty much the opposite of the F50... best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 15 hours ago, S5 modeller said: Thanks for the input guys. Seems I'm on a looser from the start then. I'm tempted to strip the body and start again, as I have half a bottle of zero paints ferrari tour de France blue, from a previous build, and might use that instead. Would that, and the zero 2k lacquer be a better proposition for polishing? Don't get me wrong, it is possible to polish up acrylic paint and get a decent shine with acrylic paints, but I do find that they're not a resistant to fingerprints as the Tamiya clear. I mentioned the Cuda in my post above as that had Humbrol colour coat (topped with Revell clear), but of the paints you've mentioned as having clear, the only one I've used is the Humbrol on the Trabant - it covered Revell matt paint ok without any reaction so I can't see why it wouldn't cover Humbrol paint too although I haven't tried that. I hope you'll forgive the forum faux pas of putting a pic of my own model in your thread, but hopefully the bonnet here will show that Humbrol acrylic clear can give a reasonable shine: Initially the clear had lots of orange peel and looked rubbish, but it did polish nicely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 @Spiny no forgiveness required, that Trabant is beautiful, and illustrates nicely that you can indeed shine up acrylic nicely. It's encouraged me to continue on my path, and persevere with the red. Matt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 Morning all. I've hit upon a problem,and I'm not too happy about it. I thought the red looked a bit darker than I hoped for, so decided to do some spoon tests, mainly to check compatibility with different clear coats. I think you can see the problem. The spoon on the left has been primed with gray primer, and painted red. The spoon on the right has the red sprayed straight onto the white plastic. The gray primer is making the red too dark. I never considered it causing a problem when I started. I've got a can of hi-cote white plastic primer, so it looks like I'm stripping the body back, and starting again. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Hi Matt, You could try spraying the body yellow first, then covering that with the red. I have seen this on another thread here. It's a MFH Ferrari 312 by pg265. Take a look, it may be the solution. Cheers, Alan. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pg265 Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 (edited) Hi, Stunning car! I’ve seen it in Paris and have the incredible chance to touch it and to seat in the cockpit! Great build and great glossy red from the can! The undercoat may modify the final result... A white, pink or yellow intermediate coat is sometimes helpful to brighten the final red. When painting straight after the primer, I usually add few drops of the final color in the (white) primer in order to be closer to the tonality of the final color. We talked about the kit with a friend of mine few days ago and I now manage to buy a new Mythos to build it again Waiting for more cool progress! Pascal Edited March 30, 2019 by pg265 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 Thanks for the info Pascal. The grey primer definitely altered the shade of red out of the can. Didn't realise it until I tested it. I think a white, or yellow primer is the way to go. You were lucky to get so close to the original car, most people haven't even heard of it! Hope to get some more progress shots up soon, as I'm on holiday this week and I've got the kit, and paints with me! Matt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 Sorry I've not updated this build recently, but stuff keeps getting in the way. Not much to report from last time, after the spoon tests. I've started painting the shock absorbers red, but they need a second coat. I have progressed on the body shell. After the not to my liking of the top coat over the grey primer, I decided to strip back the shell. I've used isopropanol, but didn't have enough to fully submerge it, so gently wiped it away, using cotton wool pads. I don't think it turned out too bad. I'm going to prime it white, and this is what I'm going to use.... I've used it on kit's before, and it's good stuff, nice and cheap(£3.99) for a large can. Here's the result of the first application. Once it's cured I'll wet and dry it. There are a couple of spots that need attention, then it'll get another coat. Hopefully the next update won't take as long. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted July 22, 2019 Author Share Posted July 22, 2019 (edited) Morning chaps. Wow, can't believe I haven't updated this build since April, so much for the next update not taking so long. Life, and other things, have got in the way of my modeling, but I'm now back at the bench. Had to relocate to a new area in the living room, but I'm all setup now. Moving around has helped my MOJO increase, and in the last 3 days I've got more done than the last 3 months! The engine is now complete and sitting in the chassis, along with the front and rear suspension. The exhaust is mounted, and the brakes too. Just waiting for the paint to dry on the firewall then that will be installed too. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hxto6f6cua1y7QLe6 Edited July 22, 2019 by S5 modeller 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted July 22, 2019 Author Share Posted July 22, 2019 Well, that didn't work. Flickr has stopped my uploading new photos, so thought I would try Google images. Seems you can't embed photos with it. Any suggestions for a free image hosting site? Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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