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Nigel Heath

1/72 Hobby Boss CH-46E/F SeaKnight in a Japanese Scheme

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Having been away visiting my cousin on Friday and Saturday, today is the first chance I have had to get any more done on this. 


First let's have a closer look at the instrument panel:




Here is a good set of photos of the real thing, or at least one of it's versions:




Hmm, bit of clever html manipulation going on there - quite pleased with myself.


Like @milktrip I want to add some substance and wiring to the back of the IP  so marked out in pencil where the instruments should be:




Next I drilled through some 2.5mm square Evergreen strip:




Then using my spirit burner I stretched that out like so:




When cut through I now had some nice squarish 1mm section with a tiny hole running through it:




That was then cut up into blocky lengths and applied to the back if the IP to represent the instrument mechanisms:




Next I made a start on the foot rests. I found some suitable candidate parts in my spares box and got them ready for soldering up the unrequired holes like this:




After soldering, they looked like this:




With some cleaning up and trimming I got them to this stage:




This is one of the best photos I could find on what the pedals and foot rests should look like:




I think I will leave actually applying them until after the pedals themselves are installed.


@azureglo has reported that he has finished the canopy masks and dropped them off with his mum who lives near me and so I will be collecting them on Tuesday.


Happy Easter to everyone.


Bye for now,



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Nice work Nigel.

Happy Easter! :) 

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Very nice Nigel.

Good way to get the back of the instruments done, very interesting.

Those pedals are an interesting shape aren't they, I'm sure yours will look fantastic.

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looking at that photo it seems that eduards prepainted PE is not that far off...


If only such a thing was available I would definitely be making use of it. Sadly it's not.


Not the greatest photo but to make the guide tracks for the upper side door I started by flattening some 0.5mm diameter lead wire using one of my bigger punches as a roller:




That was then progressively installed using extra thin superglue:




The track for the other side will only be fitted once the fuselage has been closed up.


I have also finished adding the instrument mechanisms to the back of the IP:




I ran out of stretched square section material so added some circular ones for a bit of variety and visual interest made as per the method described above from round sprue. The next job will be to add the wiring to those.


Bye for now,



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Today I am pleased to report that my postie came bearing modelling related items. First we have the pre-painted seat belts for this build:




Not strictly accurate but they were the nearest I could find.


Then we have some more Archer rivets which I bought from them directly:




These are not strictly intended for this build but they may come into play.


I also popped out to collect the masking sets Anil has made for my on his vinyl cutter along with some clear green film I intend to use on the landing lights and instrument panel:




I have not had much time to do actual modelling but I have installed all the wiring on the back of the instruments - all 26 of them:




I have also added this blocky gunsight thing to the top of the instruments using some 1.5mm card and drilled some additional holes for the wires to feed into:




Next I am going to work on fabricating the cyclic controls.


Bye for now,



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Just done a catch up here. More quality microsurgery from the house of Nigel.

Good to see.

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Yes, just as I thought the back of that IP looks VERY busy indeed!

Anil has done a good job on the masks, they look like they will work very well.

That is an awful lot of rivets you have there Nigel, more than enough for a couple of KV-107's at least.

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Just done a catch up here.


Nice to have you back on board, I was starting to wonder where you were.

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It is amazing the work that you have carried out on the instrument panel. I also like the idea of the foot rests that you making for around the yaw pedals.

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I am pleased to report that good progress has been made today, best day so far I think. I made a start on the cyclic controls, the kit offerings are not terribly realistic, here is one of the main reference shots that I used to scratch build some replacements:




Here is another version with a different end shape to the control which is what I based my efforts on:




My starting point was to sleeve some 0.6mm brass rod with some 0.8mm aluminium tube, leaving just a small portion exposed:




The method I am using can be found here.


A blob of solder was then added to the exposed brass tip:




That was then made more spherical using my spirit burner:




That was then shaped using sanding sticks and files to the blocky sort of shape seen on the real thing:




Then after adding some 0.8mm brass tube, plastic heat stretched tube, notching, annealing, bending to shape and adding some triangular pivot / mounting plates and then making the other one we have them both installed:




Definitely better than the kit offerings.


Next the joy sticks, the kit parts have an odd, square section to the hand grips




So I carved the grips into something more realistic and got them installed:




This was the main reference photo I used:




For my lunch I made up a refreshing watermelon and feta salad with a lime dressing:




After lunch I started work on the rudder pedals using 0.5mm rod and tube and 0.3mm aluminium tube to stop the solder filling the brass tube:




After trimming that up I made three more and got them all installed:




Next in went the foot rests:




With those in I think the cockpit is finished and ready for some paint.


I still had some detail to add in the cabin though, one of these required a plate with a swage in the middle, again I used the thinner metal of a numbered tab to create the swaged effect:




Here is that installed along with a few other details, including another length of Archer raised panel line decal on the sloped floor, more on that later:




The whole floor is nearing completion, I think fabricating the cabin seats is the last big job left before breaking out the airbrush.


Bye for now,



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Superb work Nigel, as usual :) 

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You're going to have to stop Nigel as not only are you showing us all up with all the extra details that you are adding but also that we are running out of superlatives to use to describe your work!

Excellent work mate, and your dinner looks alright too!

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Very nice work on the cockpit controls, very much like Chinook ones.

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Just playing catch-up and thoroughly enjoying the detailed work. Brilliant!!

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For the various cable runs in the cabin I used part of the kits runners to jig up a couple of different sizes of lead wire ready for painting




I have also done a bit more on the lower side door, adding a tiny piece of 0.3mm nickel silver steel tube to the top right hand corner and wrapping the treads with some bare metal foil for later weathering purposes (bringing the final parts count to 23):




Here is that little tube I spotted on the door - no idea what it's for:




I also added a bit of bare metal foil to the ramp as well as a strip of masking tape over the raised panel line:




Most of the day however has be spent of working on the cabin seating, starting as per normal with a drawing:




I am using the shots from this walkaround as my main reference material so can happily manage without any seat backs and still have a clear conscience:




After that I made four legs from some 0.5mm brass rod and got ready to solder the first of them to some 0.8mm tube with this arrangement:




A second length of tube was then attached using 145C melting solder with this arrangement:




I then got the remaining legs attached like so:




The first of the diagonal braces was then tacked in position like this using 145C solder again:




After trimming and moving into position the other end of the brace was soldered in place with 70C melting cadmium based solder:




With the other brace attached in a similar fashion, here we have a finished seat frame: 




With four holes drilled in the floor here's what it looks like in the cabin




The seat is a bit simplified towards the rear of the cabin as it becomes progressively more invisible back there.


Now it needs some canvas padding, as per my illustrations on page five, lead foil is an ideal material for representing this. A rectangle was trimmed up for this like so:




With a second cover added and both superglued in place here we have the finished seat ready for some paint:




I have also added a bit more detailing to the cabin side wall and escape door:




I never did find a good picture of that door so the framing is just (hopefully) educated guess work.


With that done I think all of the interior is pretty much finished to my satisfaction so I just need to do a few little things before getting some paint on this baby tomorrow.


Bye for now,



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Just catching up with your progress. Great work as always.


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Your going above and beyond on these details nigel, inspiring stuff

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I did not make an update yesterday as frankly I was busy doing other stuff but I am pleased to report that the paints I had ordered for this build arrived just two days after they had been ordered from the Scale Model Shop:




My go to EMA Plastic Weld was also getting a bit low so I got some more of that too. I also wanted to order some Humbrol LIquid Poly as that's getting a bit low as well but they were out of stock so I got the Tamiya Extra Thin which I haven't used before. The two jars of orange are an ordering mistake on my part, I already had a jar but wanted to get another just in case. Now I have a lifetime supply.


I did manage to spend some time preparing for painting by masking the fuselage edges with 1mm masking tape and a few other areas where paint was not wanted:




I also glued on the floatation sponsons.


I also wanted to sort the PE prepainted seatbelts before painting so here are those:




Then while degreasing the cabin seats the central diagonal brace came away. It took four attempts before I got it fixed and in the end I used a bit more solder than I would have liked but at least now the joins are nice and strong:




Returning to degreasing I had another minor disaster with it when this leg snapped:




I have no idea why it did that.


I first tried to repair it with a sleeve of 0.7mm tube:




That lasted all of two minutes.


Having slept on it overnight I decided this morning the best way forward was to remove the offending leg and replace it with a new replacement:




It was a bit of a pain but eventually I got it sorted:




The solder has spread onto the lead foil a bit but it is on the hidden underside so isn't really a problem.


So after finally managing to get the thing degreased I mounted up for painting using four blobs of CA like this:




In hindsight I should have angled it forward a bit more to make access to the underside easier.


Another little job before painting was to mask the winch cable:




So towards the end of the afternoon I had all the interior related parts mounted up ready for paint:




The first paint job was to apply some Mr Metal Primer (clear from an aerosol) to the metal parts or ones with a high metal content. Next I fired up my airbrush which I haven't used in months and applied some white Alclad primer to the cabin seating:




The white will need a second application as its drawn away from the surface in a string of little beads on the rearmost seat cover for some reason.


Then, without bothering to clean out my airbrush I switched to grey primer. That was when I hit a snag as the nozzle became repeatedly blocked. Repeated strip downs did not fix the issue so I decided to call it as a day (it was 7pm by now) and put the key parts of my brush to soak for the next week in cellulose thinners:




That was all the thinners I had so I clearly need to get some more as well as some of those interdental brushes to help with nozzle cleaning. I suspect the problem is down to not using the brush for several months, he does get a bit grumpy in such cases.


Bye for now,



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