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Handley Page HP42/45, Contrail vacuformed 1/72


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It is really good to see this back in progress: and I really respect your patience in correcting all of the small errors in the kit. This really will be a masterpiece when it is finished - and a rather large one too!

 

P

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18 hours ago, Moa said:

I get weary of correcting Contrail mishaps:

 

Still, Moa, looking back at the first photos, I am really impressed by the detail the mould makes were able to get in a vacuum formed kit.  Had to be a female mould as I doubt you’d get that with a male mould.  That means, as you know, making male moulds of the entire kit, casting the lot to get the female mould and then vacuum forming everything in thick styrene.  I don’t build vacuum formed kits but I do make an attempt to follow every one that is posted here on BM.  Interesting stuff.

 

Little corrections on a build by your good self is probably part and parcel of the obvious pleasure you get out of modelling.

 

Dennis

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57 minutes ago, pheonix said:

It is really good to see this back in progress: and I really respect your patience in correcting all of the small errors in the kit. This really will be a masterpiece when it is finished - and a rather large one too!

 

P

Thanks, P

Not sure about a masterpiece, but hopefully a decent replica with one or two additions. Regarding large, I already started to knock it about against the lamp, my optivisor, and any hard surface surrounding the area, and it's not even assembled yet!

If all goes well and work allows it, I may be giving a color base to the main components in the next week or so.

A long haul, this one.

 

Thames Hauler

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29 minutes ago, DMC said:

Still, Moa, looking back at the first photos, I am really impressed by the detail the mould makes were able to get in a vacuum formed kit.  Had to be a female mould as I doubt you’d get that with a male mould.  That means, as you know, making male moulds of the entire kit, casting the lot to get the female mould and then vacuum forming everything in thick styrene.  I don’t build vacuum formed kits but I do make an attempt to follow every one that is posted here on BM.  Interesting stuff.

 

Little corrections on a build by your good self is probably part and parcel of the obvious pleasure you get out of modelling.

 

Dennis

You are a "glass half full person", Dennis, no doubt 😉

You are right, but still....

 

 

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Color of the propellers.

All photos I have of my intended registration show a uniform, light color for the props, that extends over the whole of it (i.e. not just, for example, a partially clad or linen-covered blade, leaving the hub natural wood).

Dark wood it is not, nor I think it is light wood, but possibly grey as it appears in some museum model replicas.

I had seen this sort of shiny grey paint on the props of real planes of the period preserved in museums, perhaps a protective coat?

Any thoughts? John, if you are out there?

Cheers

 

 

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2 hours ago, Moa said:

Color of the propellers.

All photos I have of my intended registration show a uniform, light color for the props, that extends over the whole of it (i.e. not just, for example, a partially clad or linen-covered blade, leaving the hub natural wood).

Dark wood it is not, nor I think it is light wood, but possibly grey as it appears in some museum model replicas.

I had seen this sort of shiny grey paint on the props of real planes of the period preserved in museums, perhaps a protective coat?

Any thoughts? John, if you are out there?

Cheers

 

 

Studying photos, props were entirely fabric covered, then brass leading edges applied and whole lot painted grey.  There are a number of photos where the paint is chipping off the metal leading edges.  (The pretty wood-grained props often seen on models of British aircraft of this period are dead wrong.)  It was well understood by this time how to increase the longevity of wooden props and that was by fabric/metal sheathing. ( A number of European props were still just varnished, however....).  Just the blades could be fabric covered, or the entire prop, as in this case.

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18 minutes ago, Roger Holden said:

Studying photos, props were entirely fabric covered, then brass leading edges applied and whole lot painted grey.  There are a number of photos where the paint is chipping off the metal leading edges.  (The pretty wood-grained props often seen on models of British aircraft of this period are dead wrong.)  It was well understood by this time how to increase the longevity of wooden props and that was by fabric/metal sheathing. ( A number of European props were still just varnished, however....).  Just the blades could be fabric covered, or the entire prop, as in this case. 

Yes, thanks Roger, I had already applied a coat of grey enamel this afternoon. I used Humbrol 127 Satin, but came up too dull. Will have to airbrush a coat of real satin gloss.

 

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One thing I learned decades ago, for lessening the flatness of matt paint, was to use a little skin oil. Rub a thumb and forefinger over your forehead or the sides of your nose. Then rub your finger/thumb over well dried matt paint. It imparts a slight sheen. I did that way back in the 70's, at home on the farm. Our nearby small town only had what models and supplies that the small local department store and one hardware store kept in stock.

 

It worked great on prop blades that were painted Testors PLA Flat black. 

 

 

Chris

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3 minutes ago, Moa said:

Hum, Chris...you mean the "organic" method.

Extremely ecological.

 

Well, there are a couple other " sweaty " parts on the human anatomy that could be used, but I thought better about mentioning them. I don't need anymore warnings from Mike!

 

 

Chris

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That's a great job on here Moa !!

That's the kind of civvy bthat I could start one day !!

You really did a brilliant job on this dog of a kit !!

Congrats ! :thumbsup:

CC

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