Jump to content

Eduard 1/48 Hawker Tempest conversion to Mk II


Recommended Posts

Morning all !!

Ok - so being thusly minded and in a fit of sheer lunacy - I decided to see if i could make the old MDC conversion work with the new Eduard kit.  I'm using a series 2 boxing - as it has the drop tanks.  The MDC kit was released "a while" ago- back when the original Eduard kit was released.   overall the width and height are a good match for the kit (and if you remove the Sabre nose neatly - you could always graft it onto a Hasegawa typhoon to improve the shape there too!) The height is perhaps a tad short - meaning there will need to be a little work done  to address this later.
The nose piece is in 2 halves and unfortunately suffers from a bit of warping meaning the cowling isn't truly circular. Eventually I gave up trying to 're-circulize' it and used the cowling parts from Airfix's Sea Fury (I have the Barracudacast resin replacement- so it was going spare anyway!)  These fit perfectly and the MDC resin cowling front mates well too.


The area was rebuilt using plastic card - the big holes you see are for the sliding cooling shutters - so i need to work out how much detail to add within!
The exhaust stacks from the Sea Fury are also fitted ( again Barracudacast supplies better replacements)- why? Because the MDC exhaust area is wrong. Basically the outlet on their casting features a lower  wall that angles up- sort of like the Sea Fury - this is wrong for the Tempest II - both walls are parallel.  My guess is this because the original kit had wings that were too deep - so to make things fit they angled up the lower exit trough wall.

The nose pieces also have vestigial wing subs on them to line up with the new wing mounted air intakes - again I removed these as they won't line up with new kits wings. You can see in the pic where a new groove has been cut to take the air intake wing piece.

Here's where i was on Friday. More pics later once I've taken them!   Plus I've got a new idea for making the cannon ports on the Mk V series ii  and mark II ( and Mark VI) look better....

cheers
Jonners

3266x5C.jpg

 

60W08PY.jpg

  • Like 11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Righty Ho -  here are a few shots of the nose now it's been primed, together with the resin spinner (needs filler on tip still) and the kit Rotol prop blades that have had their tips rounded. The wing LE air intake inserts fit well- and the new kit has a distinct advantage that the UC bay front wall acts as a perfect stable bulkhead to work off in this area. In the shot of the underside you can see the main area of challenge; the step twixt resin nose and undersurface.  Pressing the wing down does close the gap but I'm worried it will be very prone to cracking if I just CA it. I may add a fairing piece across it to fare in the intakes at the root too - and blend this in. Still pondering really.

 

cheers, Jonners
 

5kBLxej.jpg

 

mq3LCNL.jpg

dBIMrPh.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jonners,

 

How about a centre line cut in the lower wing section say about half way from front edge to that first panel line, and then press down to meet the cowling as this would be less stressful for the wing section ? If you get my drift?

 

Regards 

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, mick b said:

Hi Jonners,

 

How about a centre line cut in the lower wing section say about half way from front edge to that first panel line, and then press down to meet the cowling as this would be less stressful for the wing section ? If you get my drift?

 

Regards 

 

Mike

Hi Mick - I thought about that- Im just worried it will leave a dip along the axis of the cut theta will mean I end up infilling.  Its not discounted - Im just trying to  find a way that prevent me losing too much detail.


Cheers

 

jonners

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lovely idea - given the Sea Fury’s “Lightweight Tempest” origins I have often wondered how close the Tempest II relationship was [I know very little about the Tempest, to be honest].

 

Mind you, Eduard seem to have form for producing every variant of a given design eventually, so maybe if we wait long enough.. [but where would the fun be in that?].

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

Lovely idea - given the Sea Fury’s “Lightweight Tempest” origins I have often wondered how close the Tempest II relationship was [I know very little about the Tempest, to be honest].

 

the Tempest was basically a Typhoon with a new wing,  the Tempest II cowling was influenced by the streamlined Fw190 cowling,  as can be seen if you look up the Centaurus Tornado installations,  both types are shown here https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/uk/raf/tornado/

 the 'trick' being to feed the exhaust pipes between the cylinders I believe.

 

the Sea Fury takes the Tempest wings, and deletes the centre section,  and adds a new fuselage,  and uses basically the same Centaurus installation as the Tempest II.

 

I'd not be surprised if Eduard don't do a Tempest II,  they actually don't wring out every last variant,  if they did their MiG-21 series would have the first generation MiG-21F/F-13 and the two seat UM.....

A tempest II would need complete new fuselage and wings, though if they did the wings with care a Tempest VI could be done..  I've not looked at the sprue layouts as that would be an indicator

 

Neat work @Jon Kunac-Tabinor

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

the Tempest was basically a Typhoon with a new wing,  the Tempest II cowling was influenced by the streamlined Fw190 cowling,  as can be seen if you look up the Centaurus Tornado installations,  both types are shown here https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/uk/raf/tornado/

 the 'trick' being to feed the exhaust pipes between the cylinders I believe.

 

the Sea Fury takes the Tempest wings, and deletes the centre section,  and adds a new fuselage,  and uses basically the same Centaurus installation as the Tempest II.

 

I'd not be surprised if Eduard don't do a Tempest II,  they actually don't wring out every last variant,  if they did their MiG-21 series would have the first generation MiG-21F/F-13 and the two seat UM.....

A tempest II would need complete new fuselage and wings, though if they did the wings with care a Tempest VI could be done..  I've not looked at the sprue layouts as that would be an indicator

 

Neat work @Jon Kunac-Tabinor

It is my understanding that Eduard IS going to offer a Tempest MK.II and a Mk.VI. Maybe in the Royal edition boxing? There is a longer prop spinner that would work on the Mk. VI already on the sprues.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoon. Righty ho, cannon ports.  As provided, there are inserts for the later short barrelled Hispano fit. (which covers apart from "series i" Mk Vs all series ii Mk Vs, all Mk IIs, Mk VIs and even Sea Furies) In reality, these cannon ports are not quite central to wing leading edge - they are just below with a scallop shape that extends back further on the underside than above. 

As supplied you get an even round hole with no scalloping.
cA3yafC.jpg

On my first Tempest, I just filled the holes and re-drilled them lower, enhancing the scallop with the tip of a new scalpel blade. But this required the wing and cannon port insert to all be glued up before hand, which mean adding brass tube cannon barrels through the finished ports was a bit of a fiddle. So here's my "new improved" method with added "Daft-O-Ness - The modelling aid that makes you wince".

First- cement the cannon port sections into the lower wing halves:
KkH0BPG.jpg?1

Then, using a drill and then a needle file, open up the holes. Use the needle file like a rasp with a downward force - so you cut out more plastic at the base of the hole - thus enlarging it, but moving it's centre down. ( I hope that makes sense!).
x5aJvmM.jpg?1

The add a small bulkhead with holes drilled to hold brass tube ( mine is Albion 1.3mm external diameter, should you wonder "I wonder what the diameter of tube is Jonners is using there, and who makes it?"...  ). Note the holes are low on the bulkhead. Once this is glued in, and make sure you allow for U/C leg location part as it's very close to that inner cannon; note the pencil line as a guide, cap the backs of the hole with spare card.  This creates a backstop.
5nWJ9OT.jpg?1

You can cut the aforementioned brass tube to slightly over-length and glue into the ports, and the bulkhead/backstop. I've used my ever faithful CA/talc mix here and filled in the cannon port insert too on the inside so I get a nice firm area of solid support (like my Uncle Albert's truss I'm told).

dcYpDL8.jpg?1

Using files and sanding blocks the excess brass tube is now sanded flush to the cannon port contour- and because your tube is set lower than the centre line, as you sand it back you get a beautiful  scallop shape - which you can further refine with a fine swiss circular or square file.
wWjKpMo.jpg?1

The beauty of this system is that the cannon port edges are now bullet-proof (or should that be shell-proof as they are 20 mm??) The scallop shape is consistent as it's the brass tube. And because of the back stop -  you just cut some smaller diameter tube ( a 1.1 mm outer shorter sabot with a 0.9mm full length "barrel"), drop it in like an old fashioned muzzle loader (cue Sean bean voice, "3 aimed shots a minute lads" ), and it won't go anywhere where it shouldn't (cue Sean Bean...erm, no matter...).


Eh voila! Ports a la Tempest.

cheers
Jonners
 

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very neat bit of work Jonners.

May I suggest narrowing the shell ejector slots, as they are narrower than the link slots..

 

On 11/11/2018 at 21:20, Troy Smith said:

one little glitch carried over from before,  the shell ejection slots are narrower than the link slots

 

P9CP5CG.jpg&key=8553dfbc0a359d20aa9fe964

 

nv778-180.jpg

pic from here, which has lots of useful images

http://www.hawkertempest.se/index.php/indetail/walkarounds/298-walkaround-hawker-tempest-mk-v-tt-nv778

Also, how is the red/green light on the left of the pic above done in the kit? 

 

 

cheers

T

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Morning all! Righty Ho - progress.

The engine & front fuselage is now done. The cooling shutter have been added, some tray inserts for inside scratched-up from card, scrap and wire ( these are, how shall I say, " inspired" by the real thing... loosely :) )  and the wing leading edge stubs and underside created to help blend in the air-intakes (I could have just filled the gaps, but this gives me a bit of practice  doing this type of thing, and will make the blending on easier at least).

mbMGPiy.jpg?1

MpvuM1r.jpg?1

v6KdcKM.jpg?1

A9duYTN.jpg?1

The last pic also shows how I've eliminated the step between the  resin front and the underside wing. You can see 2 cuts made in the underside centre section which follow the contours of the under-section. The central flap was then pushed and bent through into the fuselage to reduce the depth. The outer 2 sections then sit proud of the centre. It was offered up to the resin front, taped in place u and gently "adjusted" until the depths  match, then CA/Talc was run into the 2 cut gaps and once solid, the wing was removed and the join inside reinforced with more of the same. The outer 2 sections were then scraped, filed and sanded until it was all  smoothed again. More filler was applied to make good and once all done- it was re-detailed with the pounce wheel to at least give it a semblance of familiarity with the rest of the kit!

I've settled on a scheme too.  It will be MD416  XC-D, the CO's crate from 26 squadron 1946. This gives me an overall aluminium scheme, with a nice sky and red tipped spinner, pus MK III RP rails too.

There's only 1 thing i cant work out so far - and that is the two exhausts on the bottom of the cowling. The resin has them as air scoops, the Hendon MkII shows exhausts. And all the refs I have make no mention of them at all! Puzzling.

Cheers

Jonners

 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Jon Kunac-Tabinor said:


There's only 1 thing i cant work out so far - and that is the two exhausts on the bottom of the cowling. The resin has them as air scoops, the Hendon MkII shows exhausts. And all the refs I have make no mention of them at all! Puzzling.

Cheers

Jonners

 

 

The bank of exhausts on each side have 8 stacks each. So two extra exhausts make more sense, since the Centaurus had 18 cylinders.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, JasonC said:

 

The bank of exhausts on each side have 8 stacks each. So two extra exhausts make more sense, since the Centaurus had 18 cylinders.

Hi Jason - exactly what I thought.  I originally thought one of the exhaust on the side might have been used to take the output from 2 cylinders. Kev Darling's excellent book mentions only that the 2 lower exhaust pipes were lengthened to cure cockpit contamination. My guess is that the resin conversion used plans that showed "something" but they decided it was air scoops!

More work then - but at least it will be right!

cheers, Jonners
 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Atternooon.
Right - here's a wee catch up.

The inserts for the exhaust cooling panels were painted and attached. Painting is nothing special as you really can't see much once they are "in"

vMa4Y0e.jpg

JTkmedG.jpg

Anyone who has built the new Tempest will know the cockpit is an excellent little miniature,  though its rather fiddly and the side wall tubing is frail. But it builds up nicely. As with my first build I used the PE instrument panel parts but added to the plastic panel parts with the moulded detail removed. It makes for a nice robust unit that still fits OK.
The eagle-eyed may spot that the floor part has had its flat areas removed to leave just the foot-rails, central control-run gubbins conduit and attachment points.

kbnxfIP.jpg?1

ZmeeSeT.jpg?1

Then the fuselage and main components were all glued up - which fit perfectly, and the resin power egg & front attached using a gap filling CA. There was much filling and making good to do now -  just refining shapes and ensuring no gaps etc etc.  To cut a long story shor...



... :)  I've now primed her - and here she is. Note the 2 exhausts added to the lower side and some panel lines added around the area to make it look busy.

tbaTNIF.jpg

KcgLACj.jpg

fr5xMMd.jpg

Next stop is some remedial snagging, then it's silvery-silverness paint time :)

Cheers

Jonners

  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

...seeing this I get very tempted to order me an MDC set, I already have the new Tempest series2 here but always liked the Tempest II better. I also have a Sea Fury in my stash... 😉

 

cheers

Uwe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a thing of beauty! I'm following closely and thinking I might have to try - one question, do you think that it could be accomplished with a Sea Fury cowl and wing root coolers, or is the MDC set mandatory?

 

Thanks, Colin

Edited by Tail-Dragon
spelling, (not my strong point)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was wondering when someone would try the MDC set on the new Tempest. Wonder no more. Nice piece of plastic surgery Jonners.

 

@Tail-Dragon, from research I did back in '82 when I was considering converting a Matchbox Tempest II into a Sea Fury, I discovered the oil cooler is on a different side on the Sea Fury than on the Tempest II/VI.

 

Cheers,

Wlad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Tail-Dragon said:

That is a thing of beauty! I'm following closely and thinking I might have to try - one question, do you think that it could be accomplished with a Sea Fury cowl and wing root coolers, or is the MDC set mandatory?

 

Thanks, Colin

 

5 hours ago, Wlad said:

I was wondering when someone would try the MDC set on the new Tempest. Wonder no more. Nice piece of plastic surgery Jonners.

 

@Tail-Dragon, from research I did back in '82 when I was considering converting a Matchbox Tempest II into a Sea Fury, I discovered the oil cooler is on a different side on the Sea Fury than on the Tempest II/VI.

 

Cheers,

Wlad

Thanks  chaps!
Yes I did wonder about the Sea Fury as the total donor - but as Wlad says - the wing mounted oil cooler s on the other wing.  I suppose once could scratch this area onto the existing air intakes. You also have to rebuild the exhaust area ( but you have to do this with the MDC version anyway). The Tempest II exhaust is parallel sided, whereas the Sea Fury has a curved bottom lip.

 TBH the MDC set has proven to be a LOT of work to graft onto the Eduard fuselage - I'm still not totally happy with things, but its a balancing act between frustration and concomitant loss of interest, and enthusiasm for getting a II into the collection!

Cheers

Jonners

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya know, my Airfix Sea Fury kit came with a second fuselage/engine sprue do to a short shot on the tail. As it comes with a complete nose cowl, exhaust area and an engine, I just might give this a shot! The big question is the spinner, if its the same dimensions (other than the 5 blades vs 4 blades, of course) and scratch building the air intakes/oil cooler.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Happy Mardi Gras / Shrove Tuesday/ Pancake Day everyone!

I can thus report progress on the Tempest has been "Egg-cellent" :)  Paint is now on, and spinner assembled- for which I tried Bostik's new UV curable adhesive - and it worked well.
As you can see from the following pics - I had to "flip" the model over and hold her for one shot, but as with all things if you aren't timid, and come out of your 'shell" you won't drop the model and make her "pancake" in. Enough! ( I hear you groan) I'll stop now and just show you the pics.

Next stop is to paint the UC bays and sort out the legs etc

Jonners

j3RK6Ng.jpg?1

GHf5M8U.jpg?1

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Evening all.  So here's where we are, as of now. Gloss coat to seal in decals is on. Next step some post shading an a wee bit of weathering.
Decals are kit for national insignia and stencils plus Fantasy Print code letters. The underside serial number large codes were adapted from Sea Vixen codes and  black stripe as they are the biggest i had ( pics to come)
A top tip for Eduard - mould the drop tanks in grey styrene as well as clear - they are a PITA to deal with when clear!

9HjLkwz.jpg?1

cheers

Jonners

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...