1/32 & 1/48 - Hughes model 269/TH-55 Osage by AMP - 1/32 TH-55A released

[Homebee]

Released - ref. 32001 - Hughes TH-55A Osage

https://reskit-models.com/scale-plastic-model-kits?product_id=3486

https://www.aviationmegastore.com/modelling/hughes-th55--osage--hughes-269-arrived-proudly-from-ukraine-amp-models-32001-163863.html

 

 

https://ua-hobby.com/products/1-32-hughes-th-55a-osage-amp-32001

 

 

 

V.P.

Edited August 24, 2022 by Homebee

[flarpen]

Now we wait for the 1/48 version.

[k5054nz]

From ResKit on Facebook:

Quote

New scale model Hughes TH-55A Osage by AMP in 1/32 scale is ready to purchase on our web site: https://reskit-models.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3486

 

[GeejeeZ]

Err,... anyone already started building this kit? I did and I must admit that I am already stalling at the assembly of the cockpit parts...

😬

[k5054nz]

11 hours ago, GeejeeZ said:

Err,... anyone already started building this kit?

Only in my dreams.

[11bravo]

On 9/8/2022 at 10:54 AM, GeejeeZ said:

Err,... anyone already started building this kit? I did and I must admit that I am already stalling at the assembly of the cockpit parts...

😬

What's the issue?

[GeejeeZ]

4 hours ago, 11bravo said:

What's the issue?

I have trouble understanding the construction drawings of the kit. I can see that parts go together but their exact placement remains vague.

Busy with the cockpit and it remains unclear wether the aft bulkhead is perpendicular to the part with the seats on it. Also not clear how to mount the cockpit floor to the lower front part of the helicopter (the fairing below the windows). Also the positioning 'pins' look wrong to me, anyway, I can't get the seat back cushions around their positioning parts. I started sanding off most of the positioning pins/ parts. 

I know this won't clarify much and I'm not able tot post pics. 

 

Don't get me wrong: my gratefulness for an S-300 kit at last comes close to rabies, and I don't mean to bad mouth AMP's work. Guess I'll just have to wait for someone elses Work In progress post on this.

 

Edited September 12, 2022 by GeejeeZ
typo

[Mike Esposito]

On 7/29/2022 at 10:58 AM, flarpen said:

Now we wait for the 1/48 version.

Yes. I wonder how long it will take!?

 

Hopefully not too long.

Edited September 21, 2022 by Mike Esposito

[Cratecruncher]

Still no builds?  I just bought one of these from a retailer in Ukraine.  I have wanted to build this model for some time.  The 1/32 scale allows some super detailing and maybe even LEDs, hinged doors, all kinds of fun stuff.  I'll do a thread here when I get my hands on it.  I really like the AMP helicopter series and love that it supports the Ukraine economy.

[TEXANTOMCAT]

Someone is bound to do one being eaten by a shark 👍🙂 🦈 

[CMSCHLOM]

On 9/8/2022 at 9:54 AM, GeejeeZ said:

Err,... anyone already started building this kit? I did and I must admit that I am already stalling at the assembly of the cockpit parts...

😬

I flew them when I was an ROTC Cadet and 2LT. The cockpit is very difficult yet simple. You have to build and paint each part individually, as the canopy, cockpit, are all part of the main assembly.  That means careful painting and taping.  Also pre-assemble the parts first, they don't fit exactly, then begin with the cockpit, canopy, and other.  Pre-assembly is important as there are no locating tabs, so you have to eyeball it.  But you must make sure the cockpit back bulkhead is exactly 90 degrees, or the canopy won't fit.  To do a trainer, note the front.  I'm the skinny guy on the right.  Also, they forgot one collective stick, there is one in the middle, and the missing one is on the far left.  I made mine from sprue.  Look at some references to see exactly where it goes.  I still have my old operators manual from 1976 and I'm using it as a reference!🤣  I also did surgery on the doors and removed them, as we mostly flew them without the doors.

Ft. Rucker, AL, August 1983.

 

 

Edited February 22, 2023 by CMSCHLOM

[Cratecruncher]

I'm also starting work on this kit and building up the model with Elmer's school glue so I can figure out how it goes together.  I already found a BIG error in the instructions that can create a herd of fit issues!  There is a stiffener panel on the top of the back wall ( part 1A ) that fits between the back wall and the canopy.  It is incorrectly shown being glued to the back wall after the canopy is glued.  That part was apparently redesigned and instructions never updated.  But leaving it out means nothing lines up, floors slope, door parts don't fit, etc.

 

There is a 3D cast resin rotor head included in the kit that looks too fragile to support rotor blades (the way I pack, haha).  Looks like they were having problems getting the assembly to full shot or fit together because all the major pieces for a plastic rotor assembly appear to be molded on the sprue.  Since the assembly of a rotor head isn't in the instructions I want to try and use the plastic parts with brass wire to make a more durable assembly using the resin part as an instruction guide.

 

@CMSCHLOM I just met another Ft. Rucker grad from '87 while working on this kit.  Did you use the 3D resin part for the rotor?

Edited February 24, 2023 by Cratecruncher

[CMSCHLOM]

22 hours ago, Cratecruncher said:

I'm also starting work on this kit and building up the model with Elmer's school glue so I can figure out how it goes together.  I already found a BIG error in the instructions that can create a herd of fit issues!  There is a stiffener panel on the top of the back wall ( part 1A ) that fits between the back wall and the canopy.  It is incorrectly shown being glued to the back wall after the canopy is glued.  That part was apparently redesigned and instructions never updated.  But leaving it out means nothing lines up, floors slope, door parts don't fit, etc.

 

There is a 3D cast resin rotor head included in the kit that looks too fragile to support rotor blades (the way I pack, haha).  Looks like they were having problems getting the assembly to full shot or fit together because all the major pieces for a plastic rotor assembly appear to be molded on the sprue.  Since the assembly of a rotor head isn't in the instructions I want to try and use the plastic parts with brass wire to make a more durable assembly using the resin part as an instruction guide.

 

@CMSCHLOM I just met another Ft. Rucker grad from '87 while working on this kit.  Did you use the 3D resin part for the rotor?

I have not yet.  I just got through painting the windscreen, and modifying the door panels without doors.  In the summer/fall, we never flew with them on.  I didn't have the trouble with the rear bulkhead, other than it must be 90 degrees to the deck or nothing will line up.  Also, the instructions say to put both fuel tanks on.  This is incorrect, we had just one fuel tank mounted on the right side only, looking toward the front.  BUT, there are two stiffeners that you can modify from the fuel tank supports that go where the 2nd fuel tank is to be placed.  Also missing the collective for the Instructor pilot.  Are you talking about the mounting with the holes in it?  As you said that glues into the rear bulkhead, and there is a tab that it attaches too.  That has to go in first!  Then paint orange, the canopy glues to it as a butt joint joint.  Prepare for a ton of tape.  

 

 The 3D rotor hub is exactly correct..  This is a kit that takes a ton of planning, like a very limited run kit.  I did buy a UH-1 seat belt 3D decals for it.  Also, check pictures!  I'm using this one as it is correct.  Also, look ahead at the instructions.  It clarifies earlier parts placement!

 

https://abpic.co.uk/pictures/model/Hughes TH-55A Osage 

 

 

Edited February 24, 2023 by CMSCHLOM

[CMSCHLOM]

 

 

[CMSCHLOM]

On 2/23/2023 at 6:57 PM, Cratecruncher said:

I'm also starting work on this kit and building up the model with Elmer's school glue so I can figure out how it goes together.  I already found a BIG error in the instructions that can create a herd of fit issues!  There is a stiffener panel on the top of the back wall ( part 1A ) that fits between the back wall and the canopy.  It is incorrectly shown being glued to the back wall after the canopy is glued.  That part was apparently redesigned and instructions never updated.  But leaving it out means nothing lines up, floors slope, door parts don't fit, etc.

 

There is a 3D cast resin rotor head included in the kit that looks too fragile to support rotor blades (the way I pack, haha).  Looks like they were having problems getting the assembly to full shot or fit together because all the major pieces for a plastic rotor assembly appear to be molded on the sprue.  Since the assembly of a rotor head isn't in the instructions I want to try and use the plastic parts with brass wire to make a more durable assembly using the resin part as an instruction guide.

 

@CMSCHLOM I just met another Ft. Rucker grad from '87 while working on this kit.  Did you use the 3D resin part for the rotor?

 

 

[CMSCHLOM]

On 1/17/2023 at 11:06 AM, Cratecruncher said:

Still no builds?  I just bought one of these from a retailer in Ukraine.  I have wanted to build this model for some time.  The 1/32 scale allows some super detailing and maybe even LEDs, hinged doors, all kinds of fun stuff.  I'll do a thread here when I get my hands on it.  I really like the AMP helicopter series and love that it supports the Ukraine economy.

 

Fortunately, this is the only TH-55 in town in 1/32.  Well, I gotta tell you, the parts are very detailed.  The only problem is, nothing fits!  Either too short, or were made so they have to be modified in order to fit.  The directions only give you general placements, and no connecting slots.  Also, the directions assume that every thing fits together, in order.  They do not!  You literally have to build the engine in reverse order to build the detailed Lycoming engine.  You must also add the exhaust pipes first.  Then, connect them together.  Also use a tube of polystyrene plastic to replicate the muffler.  The kit muffler is OK, but only for a very early model 1965 version.  The engine assembly won't fit into the fuselage, so nip the center accessory gear box and drill out the placement holes.  For the drive belt, use Tamiya Tape, the PE strip will never work.  The lovely 3D printed rotor head is very brittle, so I CA glued the blade grip roots for extra strength.  They do give you a plastic one, but no directions on how to assemble it, so use a good photo of a real TH-55 rotor head.  It probably will have some strength.  But you have to break the rotating and non rotating swash plates to fit them on the rotor mast.  Also, provide your own pitch links, and heater blower.  The rotor blade roots:  one is upside down.  An easy fix, but watch for it or you will have a blade grip out of place.  This ain't easy, so take your time!  This builds like a 1/72 -1/48 limited run kit.  Also, leave one blade grip off the main rotor blades.  You guessed it!  It won't fit into the rotor head's blade grips.

 

 

 

Plastic:

 

 

 

3D-Printed:

 

 

Edited March 20, 2023 by CMSCHLOM

[Cratecruncher]

First off, thank you for taking the time to share your build CMSCHLOM!  I was looking at my parts last night and also noticed that rotor mast (part 31C).  I'm pretty sure that part caused a severe forehead slap when the testers went to assemble the first model.  It's surely the reason for the last minute resin piece.  Unfortunately, my resin mast was already in three pieces when I opened the box.  I managed to glue it back together but there are cracks and weak spots all over it.  I'm going the plastic route for sure. Thanks for the heads up on the blades.

 

The most visible part of the model are those two GIANT clear plastic canopy halves.  My set has some minor cracking very close to the edges that butt up to the door parts.  (Sticking in the mold?) It should be hidden by paint but I'm worried chunks might start chipping off if I try to polish it.

 

Most of my Osage work to date has been part fitting.  I agree strongly with your assessment.   It's a detailed model of a rare interesting subject that IS GOING TO tick YOU OFF at first because nothing seems to fit together.  But then something exciting comes over you as you realize the magical secret to AMP wacky part fit.  Heck, I'm having so much fun I might just throw the instructions away on my next kit.  (The TH-55 engine detail is pretty good!) 

 

Edit: Also, I noticed that 16944 is a decal in the kit and that very chopper is all over the net (unrestored) so adding some little unique details should be fun.  But for some reason AMP didn't include the big vertical yellow numbers for the canopy.

Edited March 21, 2023 by Cratecruncher

[CMSCHLOM]

3 hours ago, Cratecruncher said:

First off, thank you for taking the time to share your build CMSCHLOM!  I was looking at my parts last night and also noticed that rotor mast (part 31C).  I'm pretty sure that part caused a severe forehead slap when the testers went to assemble the first model.  It's surely the reason for the last minute resin piece.  Unfortunately, my resin mast was already in three pieces when I opened the box.  I managed to glue it back together but there are cracks and weak spots all over it.  I'm going the plastic route for sure. Thanks for the heads up on the blades.

 

The most visible part of the model are those two GIANT clear plastic canopy halves.  My set has some minor cracking very close to the edges that butt up to the door parts.  (Sticking in the mold?) It should be hidden by paint but I'm worried chunks might start chipping off if I try to polish it.

 

Most of my Osage work to date has been part fitting.  I agree strongly with your assessment.   It's a detailed model of a rare interesting subject that IS GOING TO tick YOU OFF at first because nothing seems to fit together.  But then something exciting comes over you as you realize the magical secret to AMP wacky part fit.  Heck, I'm having so much fun I might just throw the instructions away on my next kit.  (The TH-55 engine detail is pretty good!) 

 

Edit: Also, I noticed that 16944 is a decal in the kit and that very chopper is all over the net (unrestored) so adding some little unique details should be fun.  But for some reason AMP didn't include the big vertical yellow numbers for the canopy.

My canopy was exactly the same.  When building the canopy halves, here is what you want to do:  Use Tamiya thin cement, carefully and I mean carefully, fit the two haves together and hold using tape.  Take the cement and touch along the seam. and hold till dry.  Here is the secret:  After its dry, cut a 1mm strip of Tamiya tape and place right down the seam.  In real life, this was a piece of aluminum strip to hold the 4 windscreen sections together.  Underneath this strip was grey sealant.  So when you get ready to paint, tape both sides of the frame mold and tape the windscreen up and paint with Tamiya Neutral Grey.  Now the hard part, painting the tinted part of the wind screen that's on top.  Use Tamiya Smoke and 3 drops of Tamiya Black, thin,  and lightly spray on in light layers, until dark. Wait for each layer to dry.  If you mess it up, tissue and rubbing alcohol or Tamiya thinner will wipe it off and it won't hurt the plastic.   Apply to make the tinted part almost opaque.  When all is dry for 48 hours, clean with a soft cloth then dip the whole assembly in Future polish and place facing up on a paper towel and let dry for 48 hours.  Those cracks will partially disappear or will be very hard to see.

 

16944 is at the Transportation Museum, thats what they must have used to make the model.  The one I flew had the yellow numbers on the front, so I'm using spares for the tail number and the last four on the windscreen.  Later on, most TH-55s had replaced the star and bars with the last two digits of the tail number and a letter, see my picture.  If you want to do a Vietnam, Ft. Wolters bird, place the star and bars on the bottom front per the instructions.

[GeejeeZ]

Thank you guys for taking the effort and keep us informed. Thanks for the pics CMSCHLOM; they will serve as my instructions when I find the courage to get this kit out of its box again. 

I envy your enthousiasm Cratecruncher, but being a rather impatient modeller (I know: contradictio in terminis...) myself, I am affraid the box will stay closed...

 

Edited March 22, 2023 by GeejeeZ

[CMSCHLOM]

7 hours ago, GeejeeZ said:

Thank you guys for taking the effort and keep us informed. Thanks for the pics CMSCHLOM; they will serve as my instructions when I find the courage to get this kit out of its box again. 

I envy your enthousiasm Cratecruncher, but being a rather impatient modeller (I know: contradictio in terminis...) myself, I am affraid the box will stay closed...

 

Crack it open and give it a whirl.  You'll be the only kid on your block that has a 1/32 TH-55!  Once you start, you will want to continue.  Just take it slow, build in modules, and expect the unexpected!  Just finished painting the rotor blades and tail rotor.   A side note, this was not an easy helicopter to fly as an Officer Cadet and as a new Second Lieutenant.

Edited March 23, 2023 by CMSCHLOM

[Cratecruncher]

On 3/22/2023 at 10:09 PM, CMSCHLOM said:

A side note, this was not an easy helicopter to fly as an Officer Cadet and as a new Second Lieutenant.

 

A fellow I know who flew them explained to me one had to control throttle which added another variable that's normally automated in most helicopters. It was the one thing he remembered vividly!

 

Thanks for the suggestions on that big canopy.  You mentioned the plexiglass was held in place with aluminum extrusions.  I was thinking about sanding off that strip detail and replacing it with embossed stove pipe tape.  Just cut a strip the correct width, flip it over and press a dulled strait pin in to replicate rivet heads.  I'm a car modeler that loves using the thing that the thing was made of.

 

I'm going to try and have my Osage finished for a big contest in August.  The IPMS Nationals are going to be held 40 miles away in San Marcos, Texas.  I know August is a long way away but I have some other things to finish and plan to enter a lot of older models I haven't shown in years.

[CMSCHLOM]

16 hours ago, Cratecruncher said:

 

A fellow I know who flew them explained to me one had to control throttle which added another variable that's normally automated in most helicopters. It was the one thing he remembered vividly!

 

Thanks for the suggestions on that big canopy.  You mentioned the plexiglass was held in place with aluminum extrusions.  I was thinking about sanding off that strip detail and replacing it with embossed stove pipe tape.  Just cut a strip the correct width, flip it over and press a dulled strait pin in to replicate rivet heads.  I'm a car modeler that loves using the thing that the thing was made of.

 

I'm going to try and have my Osage finished for a big contest in August.  The IPMS Nationals are going to be held 40 miles away in San Marcos, Texas.  I know August is a long way away but I have some other things to finish and plan to enter a lot of older models I haven't shown in years.

I would leave the windshield as it is.  Stove pipe tape will be way too thick.  Use whats there and the Tamiya tape.  You will save yourself a lot of headaches, especially if you crack that big canopy while sanding.  If you want to add the rivets, use a pin vise with the smallest bit, and give a light wash of dark.  If you look at my photo, the aluminium screws blended in and were not visible unless you were a few feet away.  The were also flush to the aluminium strips. 

 

The manual throttle had a device called "George."  Your friend can tell you all about that little device that was the bane of all 2LTs and WOCs.

 

My latest IPMS project in New Zealand with video link: 

 

 

   https://wipapp.wipster.io/Review/CYMFQwCkKULRb5NPaCwvxZz6yd3m8IkbDlKO_tr_apSvwqCGRg#media=7801696&t=0.001    

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

 

Edited March 28, 2023 by CMSCHLOM

[CMSCHLOM]

On 3/27/2023 at 9:22 PM, Cratecruncher said:

 

A fellow I know who flew them explained to me one had to control throttle which added another variable that's normally automated in most helicopters. It was the one thing he remembered vividly!

 

Thanks for the suggestions on that big canopy.  You mentioned the plexiglass was held in place with aluminum extrusions.  I was thinking about sanding off that strip detail and replacing it with embossed stove pipe tape.  Just cut a strip the correct width, flip it over and press a dulled strait pin in to replicate rivet heads.  I'm a car modeler that loves using the thing that the thing was made of.

 

I'm going to try and have my Osage finished for a big contest in August.  The IPMS Nationals are going to be held 40 miles away in San Marcos, Texas.  I know August is a long way away but I have some other things to finish and plan to enter a lot of older models I haven't shown in years.

Still at it.  Lots of butt joints, no locating tabs or slots.  Using lots of Testors tube glue, Thick CA, and Tamiya thin.   The parts are amazingly detailed as they match up with the real thing.  They just don't fit.  Kit also lacks the heater blower, that I made, and gives you a battery, left out of the instructions.  Seems they were in a rush to get this to market, or because of the war.  I decided to do mine without doors, as that's how we flew them, mostly.

 

 

[k5054nz]

It's looking terrific, thanks so much for sharing your build! It's very helpful to hear about the fit issues and fixes, and accuracy discrepancies.

 

But then there are folk like me who want to build a civilian 300...

[Blue Monday]

I secretly always fancied building a model of ZK-HHQ from "Race for the Yankee Zephyr". Maybe when they release the 1/48 scale version of the kit.

 

BM.