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Su-27FSM - "Flankerstein" (T-10X Series) in 1/72 scale - Revell/Zvezda/Italeri Combination


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The landing gear doors have been completed as well. The inner sides were painted to red and coated with Future/Pledge and decals were applied.

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And all the parts have been coated with Future/Pledge to seal the applied decals:

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The pylons and landing gear struts were painted to light ghost gray:

858.jpg

 

The next step is to apply panel wash.

 

Serkan

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I haven't done any panel wash before... I have read many articles and watched lot of videos showing panel wash with oil paint and decided to go with it.

 

First I have made a test on old fins left form "bleeding resin oil" problem. I have first coated them with Future/Pledge and let them dry for 2 days and then applied oil paint wash as described in videos and forums. Then I let them dry for 30 minutes...

 

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When the excessive oil was wiped off I have seen that some of the painted areas were lifted off...

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The possible reason for this can be:

  • because the old resin does not allow paint to stick surface well.
  • the clear coat was not enough thick to prevent the paint.
  • or both...

I have coated the model with additional layers of Future/Pledge to avoid such problems in my work:

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and after taking a deep breath and crossing my fingers, I have applied the oil wash:

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But guess what happened after wiping off all excessive oil paint?..

 

Serkan

 

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14 hours ago, PattheCat said:

Oops! Bad luck again.

Sorry for you. Hang on!

 

Not really bad luck. But a bit lack of experience...

 

Experience is the best teacher.

 

As Mark Twain said:

"Good judgement is the result of experience and experience the result of bad judgement."

 

 

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Ok, what I have learned from oil wash process is to apply clear coat evenly and ensure that all decals have been sealed properly.

 

In general the panel wash looks pretty well.

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But when looking in detail there are many areas to be repaired:

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The oil wash with turpentine ate the paint and decals at the areas that have not been sealed properly with Future/Pledge coat.

 

Now the local repair starts with decals:

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and intake markings were replaced:

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and finally the damaged areas were repainted and new decals were placed:

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The next step is to seal all the decals and panel wash with clear coat and after then apply final dull coat.

 

Serkan

 

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15 hours ago, TallBlondJohn said:

Maybe try thinning the oil colour with lighter fluid - it should be gentler. 

Next time if I temp to do panel wash, definitely I will give it try.

Serkan

 

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  • 1 month later...

Amazing journey to the final result, looks really good. Because of your on going thread l have dug out my ICM Su-27 that l had partly started and getting near the painting stage, just need to decide on a scheme.

 

Regards

Robert

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18 minutes ago, Robert said:

Amazing journey to the final result, looks really good. Because of your on going thread l have dug out my ICM Su-27 that l had partly started

Thanks Robert,

I have several Flanker threads here. I am assuming that you are referring this one 😁

 

I have 2 ICM kits in my stash. In past I heard many good reviews about them and bought the kits, but my both samples have flaws, very deep and long sink marks on wing upper surfaces which cannot be fixed without loosing most of the surface panel lines. I hope yours has not such issue.

 

Serkan

 

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Serkan-

 

You are doing a fine job with this.  The splinter scheme is stunning.  I too have had issues with turpentine and Future/Pledge.  Try odorless mineral spirits.  If it is available where you live, I highly recommend Mona Lisa paint thinner. I use it with Winsor and Newton oils, and have had excellent results.

 

David

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On 8/9/2019 at 3:20 PM, Chemguy3000 said:

Try odorless mineral spirits.  If it is available where you live, I highly recommend Mona Lisa paint thinner.

Thanks for sharing your experience David. Here in Germany I can find "Winsor and Newton" distilled turpentine but unfortunately "Mona Lisa" odorless turpentine is not available (I have found in 1 Gal container which I find a bit much for panel wash 🙂 ).

In this kit I have used Lukas pure balsam turpentine and also tested odoreless turpentine from local DIY  Store. I think the washing was failed due to uneven/not fully sealed Future/Pledge coats which leaded penetrating turpentine to paint layer.

 

On 7/4/2019 at 7:55 PM, TallBlondJohn said:

Maybe try thinning the oil colour with lighter fluid - it should be gentler.

I will also test your kind recommendation John.

 

Serkan

 

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Here are the missile sprues of Revell/Zvezda Flankers left from my other conversion projects also reported in this forum:

947.jpg

 

First let's build some AA-10 missiles...

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And few AA-12 missiles as well:

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Also couple of Kh-31 and other guided bombs:

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They should be enough to arm Flankerstein 😁

 

Serkan

 

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