Serkan Sen Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share Posted February 24, 2019 I had lot of fun working on camo patterns and markings. But it is time to go back to real world from virtual one... Next step is to improve MLG bay details. Serkan 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share Posted February 24, 2019 (edited) Here are the Trumpeter Su-34 upper and lower halves and view of MLG Bay details: Placing Trumpeter upper half and "Flankerstein" lower half together: The result seems not soo bad: Then I "cloned" the MLGB details using "quick molding silicone": Here are the cloned parts: And placed on "Flankerstein" half: The wall shape has been rounded to fit Italeri MLGB side walls: The both resin parts have been glued now: And the result seems quite good: The next step is to glue all parts together. Cheers Serkan Edited February 24, 2019 by Serkan Sen 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 Here are some pictures with all parts glued together: The root fairings of LED have not been done yet but will be added soon... Cheers Serkan 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 The root LED fairings have now been added: Cheers Serkan 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) I was not very happy with the İtaleri air intakes as they looked a bit unrealistic (even for "Flankerstein"). Then I remembered that I already have molds of Trumpeter Su-34 intakes from my Su-27IB project. Here are the cloned pair of intakes: First dry fit test to see how the aircraft will look like with new intakes: It looks better than the original Italeri intake. Now the surgery (or butchery if you like) can start. Here are the cut lines to remove existing intake: Here the old intake has been removed: And some plastic card strips have been placed to align new intake correctly: Again dry fit test to see the result: Next step is to repeat the process for other intake... Cheers Serkan Edited February 26, 2019 by Serkan Sen 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) Following the same process shown above the remaining intake has been also removed. Here note that I have opened the slots on both side of the remaining engine body to increase the circumference to match Trumpeter intake part. Here are the implanted intakes on both sides: Before: After: I think the result is better than the original one. What is your opinion? Serkan Edited February 26, 2019 by Serkan Sen 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avgas Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 2 hours ago, Serkan Sen said: I think the result is better than the original one. What is your opinion? I'd agree. Big improvement. Interesting project and one I don't have the skills or patience for! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 I agree, those new intakes are much better than the Italeri ones. Trumpeter must have got something right at last. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Those intakes do look a lot better. Be interesting to see what you do about the exhausts. Robert 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Robert said: Those intakes do look a lot better. Be interesting to see what you do about the exhausts. Robert I am planning to use Thrust Vectoring Nozzles that I already modified for my Su-30MKM project which is also going to be reported in this forum. I will add some progress pictures tomorrow. Serkan Edited February 26, 2019 by Serkan Sen 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 (edited) One of the mods I have planned at the beginning was to replace nozzles with TVN parts I already did for my Su-30MKM project. The first step is to remove nozzle mount areas from the kit as marked below and replace with TVN mounts: As usual start with one side: Make dry fit test: Everything is fine. Then repeat for the other side: Note that to match the circumference of nozzle mount and aft body end, I have opened around 3 cm long slots on lower half of the aft fuselage. It allowed me to adjust the diameter of end fuselage to match with nozzle mount: Here are the nozzle assemblies to be used: The nozzle itself is from Revell/Zvezda, vectoring control part has been modified from Hasegawa Su-35S and exhaust cans are from Aires resin accessories: The glued engine mounts: And added nozzles: The kit looks to me now more attractive with TVNs than before 😘 Cheers Serkan Edited February 27, 2019 by Serkan Sen 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) Now it is the time to combine virtual and real works... I have "mapped" my 2D drawings onto model and made necessary corrections on camo patterns before cutting vinyl masks with plotter/cutter: The camo scheme seems not bad at all on model, isn't it? 🙂 Serkan Edited March 4, 2019 by Serkan Sen 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 Here are the contours of painting masks to be cut from Oramask vinyl using plotter/cutter: The left half is for light blue and the right half is for darker one. Cheers Serkan 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Great modelling and computer skill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neffan Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Great job ! I think you are able to do a real good business sales with that ( Decals / Resin conversions / painting Mask) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 2 hours ago, Neffan said: Great job ! I think you are able to do a real good business sales with that ( Decals / Resin conversions / painting Mask) Maybe in near future why not? 🤔 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 Now the most exciting part of modeling starts here: painting and finishing the aircraft... I have realized that cutting very tiny masks with x-acto for each panel at engine upper and lower surfaces is very painful process and not good for my old eyes 🤓. Therefore I have made drawings for these panels and used plotter/cutter to do this job faster and more accurate: The next step will be to apply base coat and then place panel masks... Cheers Serkan 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 (edited) As undercoat I have applied MM stainless steel. After then I placed all masks: As I have not applied any primer yet it looks at bit messy. But this will change soon 😁 The next step is to apply different metalizer tones to each panel. I am afraid that this is the most challenging part of building Flankers. Cheers Serkan Edited March 23, 2019 by Serkan Sen 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 24, 2019 Author Share Posted March 24, 2019 (edited) In last 48 hours I have learned valuable thing experiencing by myself: NEVER APPLY MASK ON METALIZER!.. Arrgh... Less tacky vinyl mask pulls up metalizer even under the clear coat. After searching this issue in internet here is the summary: Metalizer sealer helps only a bit. Use Parafilm M to mask areas painted with MM Metalizer (Metalizer sealer coat is strongly recommended). Even less tacky is using wet Kleenex tissue, though it is not a long term mask. If you have no MM Metalizer in your inventory then go with Alclad II. Yesterday I have ordered 18 bottles of Alclad II and I will make final touch with them later. Cheers Serkan Edited March 25, 2019 by Serkan Sen 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 Long time ago I had bought Parafilm M to mask canopies. This time I have used it to mask Metalizer: Also the tip missile rails were replaced with wing tip 'Sorbtsya' ECM pods: The next step is to paint complete A/C with primer. Cheers Serkan 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) The nightmare continues... If you build Flankerstein, then having nightmare is not a big surprise... Now the problem is the casted resin parts... It seems that the shelf life of the resin was expired although during casting I had no issue at all. But when the parts were painted they started to "sweat" especially at the edges. When the parts are heated up to 50-60 degrees Celsius with heat gun, it is clearly visible how the resin starts to "sweat": I will repeat "heat and wipe" process until the resin stop "sweating"... I hope it won't last forever... Serkan Edited March 25, 2019 by Serkan Sen 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 17 hours ago, Serkan Sen said: started to "sweat" Never heard of such a thing but hey, you're the man to sort it. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 35 minutes ago, Courageous said: Never heard of such a thing but hey, you're the man to sort it. Stuart Actually I have seen that I am not the only one suffering from this. Here and here one can see the same symptoms but no solution (except using always new resins for castings and let existing old parts to bleed oily and aggressive fluid for few days). Serkan 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 After waiting a week to let the resin part to "sweat" rest of oily fluid, I have applied a second coat of primer to see whether the problem was solved or not: Unfortunately it still bleeds oil but definitely less than before. I have first cleaned these bleeding areas with isopropyl alcohol : and after then used Talcum Powder to make the surface dry and made bandages using paper tissue pieces: Now it really looks like "Frankenstein" 🙂 I will let it dry for another week before applying next coat... Cheers Serkan 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 (edited) After waiting for few weeks with a hope that the resin problem will be disappeared and eating dozens of popcorn unfortunately the parts were still sweating. I have decided to try another method. I have found in internet that the resin parts sweating oily fluid can be healed using heat treatment (~65°C for 4 hours) or putting in dishwasher. I have selected heat treatment... As you see my all running projects were suffering from casted resin parts. I have placed 3 T-10M's, Fullanker and Flankerstein into oven trays... Unfortunately it didn't stop bleeding although was less than before. Also keeping the temperature at 65°C was not easy and the process costed me deformed wings of 2 T-10M's. I was totally frustrated and at the edge of abandoning all these butchery, but as Bob Marley says: "Get up, stand up, don't give up the fight!.." After taking a deep breath and casting all the parts with new PU resin, the butchery started from beginning: I have removed all old resin parts. One can easily see how the resin parts were bleeding. The Zebra stripe patterns show the drained oil paths: After removing the old resin parts and cleaning the edges now all the new resin and kit parts can be glued together: To be continued... Serkan Edited May 9, 2019 by Serkan Sen 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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