Rogue. Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 10 hours ago, chrislowe said: Not too much progress last week because I was over the pond, but I'm back now and ready to get going. One question for the collective wisdom of BM. What is the thing that hangs underneath just behind the doplar sensor, and what colour should it be? This is it, in the PE... Thanks Looks like a 'Hook' to me for underslung loads, usually a shiny metallic grey. Great looking build 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 SACRU? Semi Automatic Cargo Release Unit, they seem to dangle underneath most military chopters these days 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Really liking your build here...especially the cockpit & cabin! awesome work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Rogue. said: Looks like a 'Hook' to me for underslung loads, usually a shiny metallic grey. Great looking build 👍 4 hours ago, perdu said: SACRU? Semi Automatic Cargo Release Unit, they seem to dangle underneath most military chopters these days Got it, thanks. I found a really good pic of it here that raises a couple of questions. First is this pic taken looking fore or aft? Gut feel says aft, but I'm not confident. Second, is that a bungee cord on the left hand side, and if so, where is it attached at the other end? Airfix didn't include the "lump" for hydraulic ports, so I'll try to scratch build that along with the pipes. Edited March 21, 2019 by chrislowe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Good view of the starboard leg so that is looking back'ards Definitely a bungee cord obviously intended to keep the hook off the deck most times, hook it somewhere convenient? Ex-FAAWAFU may be able to help you there, I expect naval Lynxes had similar needs to Army ones Most SACRU pics I've seen have the hook pointing to the front, like that Nice naval Lynx picture, I'm going to hang on to that link 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewing9593 Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 The detail inside that cockpit genuinely blew me away. Bravo. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Looking good Chris, I picked one of these up from a freind who has half built it but lost interest. So and 847 NAS cab in the near future.... Colin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dansk Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Fantastic build Chris, really excellent work you’ve done 👍 I have this kit, and the BigEd set for it also, so I’d like to pull up a chair join you for the remainder of the build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 (edited) Some "gigery pokery" tonight firstly adding the cable / hydraulic to the IR shields. Happy with how they have turned out although I'd like to find some resin joints or fittings for making these details a little better in the future. And then lenses onto the defensive suite on the nose. I'm not sure about that. The lense is visible in the photos on the walk around, but mine don't quite look right. More thinking required. Edit: those close-ups really do make it look like awful. I need to work on achieving a better fit and using more filler. Edited March 21, 2019 by chrislowe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 (edited) With the help of some Mr dissolved putty,, that gap under the screen is starting to disappear. In the mean time, my thoughts turned to the sacru, more precisely the hydraulics. First I tried to build the housing out of card by making walls, but that was fiddly and it proved very difficult to get it square. Next I tried gluing some 0.04 plasticard together to make a block which I then chopped diagonally. That worked much better. Somehow I managed to convince myself that PE would be a good representation of the very proud hydraulic caps that can be seen on the housing. Wrong again. My plasticard block had given me 2 identical shapes, so I could have another go with it starting over This time, to represent the caps, I cut small rounds from a piece I'm not going to use Better. With the addition of paint and some spare PE Still not as good as I imagined. How @perdu does this in 1/72 is beyond me. In situ, I'm happy with the result. Thanks for all your kind words. I think I'm getting to the point where I'm going to put a clear coat on it and start working on the rotors. Not tonight though. Tonight I'm going to have a beer. Cheers! Edited March 27, 2019 by chrislowe 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 That is amazing and there is no way I could have done that so well Just saying Anyway, the defensive suite thingys on the nose look ubergood If you dont quite like the lens shape by the way why not just use a blob of PVA glue let to form the dome, a little more or a little less will change the look of the dome Playing with the idea gives you lots of scope for dome sizing 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Neat work on the load hook and hydraulic connections Chris. Just ploddibng around with one I picked up at the model club, so need to add this myself. Colin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) I’m late to this question (but love what you’re doing). But Bill is right about the SACRU and the function of the bungee cord. [You can clearly read the words “Semi Automatic Cargo Release Unit No.2 Mk.1” on that Danish jobber - but you can tell someone who has only ever flown the Lynx because the Lynx FRCs call it a “CRUSA” - presumably Cargo Release Unit Semi-Automatique, or some such nonsense. I converted to Lynx from Seakings, and could never get myself to csay “CRUSA checks” in the Beefer-approved manner. Guys, it’s a SACRU: get over it] Edited March 29, 2019 by Ex-FAAWAFU 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 (edited) Pushing on I distracted myself with the flare & chaff units Not much added here except some black tape on the top of the step and the wiring on the back. And then I have in to temptation and went back to tidy up the sacru hydraulics. At this point I think that's as close as I'm going to get it to the image I had in my head. Then back to finish off these Only to realise that they're pointing slightly aft when they should be pointing slightly forward. I won't say anything if you don't 😉. In between all that I started on the L7A1 While there are lots of photos of the weapon on line, I struggled to find clear photos showing the detail of the magazine. So I did a "best guess". While I try to scratch build the RH step with the IR light, I'm going to start on the rotors. Any advice about colour for the blades? Most pictures I've seen look something like xf-67 NATO green. Thanks for coming along Edited April 5, 2019 by chrislowe 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Getting Old Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 Very nice work Sir, looking good so far 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 Quick update from yesterday. I thought about building the rotors, but as I'm in the scratch-building groove, I thought I'd have a go at the RH step and the BriteStar light. It's not included at all in the Airfix kit, but you can clearly see it on the photos of the same aircraft in the walk around. So, first the step. I started with the top plate and built the frame underneath. Pretty happy with that, so I went on to build the bracket for the lamp. Forgot to take a picture of that so here it is fitted and painted. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 (edited) Today I've been mostly working on the BriteStar light to suspend under the new RH step. I built the front out of spare PE and some clear plastic packaging from something or other. Turns out the plastic isn't polystyrene, so it was CA all the way. Then I built the body out of pieces of plasticard, and with some filler and Mr dissolved putty, got what I believe is the right shape. The inside is airbrushed with Alclad light burnt metal to give it the slightly yellowish tint you can see on the pictures. Sick the front onto the body and... Close enough? Edited April 7, 2019 by chrislowe 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 (edited) Little bit of progress tonight, I made the mount for the IR lamp, connected a power cable and fixed the lamp itself onto the mount. Then, finally I went back to the defensive suite on the nose. I wasn't happy with my first attempt so i added the red-brown surround to the lense that is visible on the walk around pics. Some how that has made all the difference, so I'm happy to move on. I think that's everything I wanted to do on the fuselage, so I'm going to move on to the rotors. Edited April 9, 2019 by chrislowe 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 The Brite Star thingy, blooming lovely work And I reckon I can still play noisy games with the Gimpy, even after all these years In all, one of my favourite builds of a favourite aeroplane Great stuff Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 I've been working on the rotors. Bit of PE on the rotor head, but mostly it was just following the instructions and remembering to check back with the photos in the walk around. The leading edge decals were ok after a bit of gigery-pokery. In the walk around pictures, the tail rotors are one of the only areas that show notable weathering, so I tried some humbrol weathering powder. First time I ever used this and there's no hints or tips on the bottle so I was just brushing it on with a soft dry brush working from the leading edge back. Thanks for following along 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Getting Old Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 Very nice work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Wot e said Nicely done 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) Hi Chris, just a a couple of notes on the blades. The tail rotor green area - This is where we put all the blade info on in white writing. The silver leading edge didn’t get that dirty but the red/white would erode where it meets the Silver. The main blades leading edge tapers to a point roughly inline with the the angle change on the trailing edge. The part where the main blades attaches to the head with the bolts (known as Cuff bolts) are the same colour as the blade. Steve. Edited April 17, 2019 by speedy 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrislowe Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) Ok, I'm going to deal with this one rotor at a time... 11 hours ago, speedy said: The tail rotor green area - This is where we put all the blade info on in white writing. Awesome information, thanks. The white writing on the blades was actually provided in the decals along with the outboard / inboard stencils. I cut it off because it didn't seem to fit in the space that I had. I've reinstated it, but as you can see it creeps up over the red area. Is that ok, or does it need trimming so that is entirely on the green section? 11 hours ago, speedy said: The silver leading edge didn’t get that dirty but the red/white would erode where it meets the Silver. I've repainted the silver so it's nice and clean hopefully that gives more of the impression of the weathering you've described? Obviously at some point the new writing will need a little weathering as it's very bright compared with the rest. I'll tackle the main rotor tomorrow. Thanks for looking. Edited April 17, 2019 by chrislowe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 Hi mate, I see what you mean buy that decal. For your model I think that white decal detracts from your overall efforts. Thought about some white fine lines that will fit which will pass in this scale?. Silver L/E looks loads better. If you can try and remove a little of the dirt from the white panels. As said these remain quite cleanish. The only other I’ve seen was when the were sent back from Afghanistan or Kenya, they were allowed to paint the whole blade green in theatre for erosion protection. Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now