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Wounded Pup


Marklo

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47006514432_1c3ef8d067.jpg Vs 31795256427_c47f29d5d8_m.jpg

Pip (looks cute but still has that Killer instinct)  decided to have a go at the Pup over the weekend and the result was this>

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So seeing as I didn't post a WIP for the build I'm going to do a WIP for the rebuild. As the carpet monster has intervened and taken the lower port wing the undercariage needs a few new struts and I was never happy with the rigging anyway there'll be a fair bit to the restoration. Mostly the thread will be about the Pup not ending up in the spares box (for a brief moment it was going to be the makings of a Sopwith Mouse :)

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The Mouse, actually I think I'd like one in my collection anyway also known as the Alcock 1 mostly Pup parts.


 

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That would be one very dead cat if it were mine. One reason I don't have one. (Another being I'm allergic to them).

 

Seeing as how he's clung to life for the last 20 years and I do like cats, who am I to say. He knows he's in trouble but is keeping quite about it.

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On a warships forum long ago, a member announced his wife had got two kittens and asked for naming suggestions.

 

We suggested Nimitz and Doenitz as they had destroyed more ships than anybody else. He got the point.

 

Good luck with the restoration!

Edited by TallBlondJohn
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New wing offered up for comparison, might still have the chord a little wide and the tip needs a little sanding but getting there (possible better than the original,) 

 

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Tail plane and rudder glued back on. Most of the rigging survived the encounter so I may leave it alone.

 

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And here's the culprit, completely guilt free.

 

 

 

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looks good. If you like it better, make another to match it precisely.

A little fettling should see it match, Held on for the dry fitting, the angle of incidence is a tiny bit off so this should account for the apparent chord difference. I'll use my jig when I glue it on so as to ensure it's in the right place.

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1 hour ago, Marklo said:

A little fettling should see it match, Held on for the dry fitting, the angle of incidence is a tiny bit off so this should account for the apparent chord difference. I'll use my jig when I glue it on so as to ensure it's in the right place.

I've founf with scratch built wings, if you  can get thick strip in at the leading and trailing edges and root and some laminations at the tip, then  you can relax and  work those without any fear of the skinning coming away.  I've started working my way through my Sierra and PAmela Veal WWI I subjects and have decided to  wherever possible  add laminated plasticard or block to all of the wing tips and profile them  rather than struggling with   joins along the edge.

 

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with scratch built wings, if you  can get thick strip in at the leading and trailing edges and root and some laminations at the tip, then  you can relax and  work those without any fear of the skinning coming away.

I'm using a variation of the Woodman method, instead of double sided sticky tape I CA the skin to the wing, that way even if I need to sand through the skin it still  firmly attached. As happens I compared the new wing to the plans and it was indeed the chord was about .5 of a mm too wide (much better too big than too small) . I've now corrected it scribed the ailerons and drilled all the holes ready for fitting and painting. 

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13 minutes ago, Marklo said:

I'm using a variation of the Woodman method, instead of double sided sticky tape I CA the skin to the wing, that way even if I need to sand through the skin it still  firmly attached. As happens I compared the new wing to the plans and it was indeed the chord was about .5 of a mm too wide (much better too big than too small) . I've now corrected it scribed the ailerons and drilled all the holes ready for fitting and painting. 

I've been fortunate  That I've been able to aquire a nipping press and I laminate the skins onto the wooden cores   using Dichloromethane as a solvent  and then do the laminating in the press. I have had  had problems in the past laminating with CA and then went over to Epoxy which I found reliable  but  prone to oozing betwen the wing skins and the plasticard leading and trailing edges, which I've taken to using  as a  good means of controlling the L.E. and T.E. contours. Dichloromethane is a hazardous chemical and should only be used where you've got very, very good ventilation, but I have found it  most effective as a solvent especially where any kind of laminating is involved. I've mostly  gone over to using heat stretched plasticard  on wings, and  paired, scored lines on tail surfaces  for rib tapes, rather than embossed skins. Some of these methods might seem a bit excessive, but  Hopefully the wings I@ve made will stand the test of time , unlike  the wings of some of my older scratchbuilt projects, which I am now working through making new wings for!

 

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Looking good. I've found a photo of  a bit of leftover wing showing the plasticated leading and trailling edges and one of the dolphin...https://www.flickr.com/photos/165720137@N06/47041511012/in/dateposted-public/  

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/165720137@N06/47041511012/in/dateposted-public/  

Edited by matti64
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5 minutes ago, Marklo said:

That is really neat. Looks the business. My method is way more crude but pretty much works provided I fill any voide with CA to allow sanding.

Hadn#t quite got the  trick of pisting pictures. the first link is to the one of the wing tip. I'm happy with the repalcement wings for the dolphin and feel confident that they'll last better than the [revious ones.

 

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32201529967_525f12120c_z.jpg

 

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Working on matching the new wing. Something didn't look quite right and I eventually realized that I had made the chord slight ly narrower and also the trailing edge was a little slanted, so I've CA'd a 1mm to nothing sliver on to the trailing edge and milliputted it in, followed by copious sanding and it's now looking correct (still some sanding left)

 

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I've also made a new set of struts. .5mm card sandwiched between .25mm with (oasis wire) .9mm steel pieces at the ends set into the .5mm card, still need a little more shaping, but nearly ready to go. Should be ready to refit the upper wing by the weekend.

Edited by Marklo
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  • 4 weeks later...

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New wing fitted and undercoated in Tamiya Khaki Drab, pretty close to PC10 (hmm slightly blurry photo, looks better iRL),  I used AK interactive PC10 early on the build but  it is very translucent so needs a decent undercoat to get a good finish (the tail plane is still in it's original PC10).  SO it's a new coat of PC10, some scotchbrite polishing  a new underwing roundel and then it's ready for  rigging and rebuilding.

Edited by Marklo
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  • 1 month later...
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I wish that I could get my eyelets that small and tidy.

I'm  using .26mm wire around .5mm brass rod and twist it with a pin chuck, giving an eyelet with an OD of (approximately)  1mm  they're almost to scale at 1/48 and pronbably good for 1/32. Anything smaller is beyond me although there are probably those here using unfeasibly smaller wires to get even better results :)

 

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  • 6 months later...

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Poor Pip has sadly passed on  but the Pup is still on my workbench, however the end is in sight again. To summarize, made a new lower wing, attached and painted it. repaired the undercarriage.  made and fitted new interplane struts,  added eyelets for re rigging and have partially rigged it and reattached the upper wing. 

 

Just need to finish redoing the rigging, add cabane struts, touch up the paintwork and refit the Lewis gun and the pilots face guard.

 

BTW the photo shows what I refer to as the cardboard box method ( although I've resorted to tupperware as I didn't have a suitable cardboard box in reach at the time) for aligning biplane wings, works a charm and no expensive jigs needed (nice and all as they are)

Edited by Marklo
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