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Airfix C47 BEA Dart Dakota G-AMDB


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I'm curious to see how this goes, I have the same parts. Where did you get the decals you're using? In the instructions it says there isn't many pictures of this plane if I remember right. I just don't have the time to put the Dart DC-3 in my shop right now. I have about seven I want to build.

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@busnproplinerfan i have bought this set a very long time ago as wanted to use it on a Italeri kit with resin dart engines from Classic planes in Germany ..

As it linguered around in my cave to be build the Airfix kit came along and i tried to put the engines on the Airfix one but these didn’t fit well and where oversized for this kit..

At this point the Transport Wings set was considered as this one is designed to be put on the Airfix kit...the set has laser decals provided but i am not a fan of laserprint..

If possible i always try to find screenprinted versions for my subjects!

 

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I have two sets of scimitar propeller blades , the resin ones are from the Classic planes set and are very nicely shaped..

The metal ones are the transport wings ones and need a little work  but aren’t bad either..

 

Cheers, Jan

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, janneman36 said:

@busnproplinerfan i have bought this set a very long time ago as wanted to use it on a Italeri kit with resin dart engines from Classic planes in Germany ..

As it linguered around in my cave to be build the Airfix kit came along and i tried to put the engines on the Airfix one but these didn’t fit well and where oversized for this kit..

At this point the Transport Wings set was considered as this one is designed to be put on the Airfix kit...the set has laser decals provided but i am not a fan of laserprint..

If possible i always try to find screenprinted versions for my subjects!

 

40072099023_83b8bb1d7a_b.jpg

 

33161768428_029f444949_b.jpg

 

46312840694_8dcba704cd_b.jpg

 

33161813298_3a2b08f2a7_b.jpg

 

I have two sets of scimitar propeller blades , the resin ones are from the Classic planes set and are very nicely shaped..

The metal ones are the transport wings ones and need a little work  but aren’t bad either..

 

Cheers, Jan

 

 

 

I think my set is a different one, the engine inlets are a bit different, has the little fins. I can't find right now, buried away. I didn't know the new Airfix had a different sized nacelle.

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Did a little bit today...

 

as you can see there are two sets of wings and two fuselage halfs and one fuselage is cut up and that is going to be a second build ..

That second build is going to be a C47 TP Alleycat conversion..the color scheme is still not certain at this point haha

 

 

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As you can see i am not building it to the following order of the Airfix drawings, doing it this way gives me a more smooth  connection at all the wing joints.

I had build another one in the past like this and it suited me well as i almost didn’t need any filler ..

 

cheers, Jan

 

 

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Did some work today and painted the interior, i decided to do the interior with the familiar british interior green (Humbrol 78)..

The reason why is that the Viscount at Duxford has a similar color ..

I had found a few b/w pics on the web of G-ALXN with the Darts fitted with a dark interior color on the door and no lining..

Later on these aircraft were fitted with a passenger interior and reverted to piston power also the tailcone was fitted when converted to the passenger layout.

Mine will be build as G-AMDB as this one had the white around the logo on the nose and this was never introduced on G-ALXN ..

The decals only provide the white surrounded version..

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https://www.airteamimages.com/douglas-dc-3_G-ALXN_bea---british-european-airways_65233_large.html

 

http://www.vickersviscount.net/Pages_Technical/TechnicalRollsRoyce3.aspx

 

https://abpic.co.uk/pictures/view/1317918

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all, 

 

Done some detail work on the cockpit and fitted some seatbelts from Brengun ..

The seatbelts used are USAAF generic ones, they almost look the same as used on a C47 but hey this a postwar aircraft so i took the liberty to use the artistic license as i don’t have any reference whatsoever on these Dart Dakota cockpits..

For the ease of construction i cut the yoke assembly in half  in order to avoid something breaking..

In this way it was also easyer to place the wheel on the yoke before placing it in the cockpit !

I left the rudderpedals out as they are not to be seen from the outside, they are wrongly molded as wel!!

The rudder pedals are in a position that they are mirrored of each other and in a real aircraft you will have a problem when  placed like this so someone was sleaping at Airfix...

I also did not installed the cabin lighting strip as it is not to be seen from the outside with the door closed.

then closed it up and got the wing fitted.

Finally the project speeds up..i am not sure at the moment how i am going to do the baremetal finish but i am thinking about foiling it ..

 

Cheers, Jan

 

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Edited by janneman36
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4 hours ago, stevehnz said:

I'm looking forward to seeing this done, I'm a sucker for modded/converted aircraft & have long thought this is a cool subject.

Steve.

I had this one a long time in my mind to build but at first i wanted to do this with the Classic plane conversion wich is a nice one if you like the Italeri kit.....it never came to fruition as i did not like the Italeri Dak and placing these Classic plane engines on the Esci or Airfix is a very bad idea as it will not fit due to nacelle diameter which is a little smaller on these kits...

I will finish this one in the end, i have come to far now..😜

 

cheers, Jan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

 

finally i have some more progress as i did glue the windows in..

 I use the Revell contact a clear for that as it is great stuff and  can be removed using alcolhol or IPA ...

As the Airfix kit doesn’t have a escape hatch above the cockpit i scribed one using a etch template and a needle as a scriber put into a small handdrill that alway works with the round corners..

Also scribed extra lines around the cockpit area that Airfix left off and make it a little better to my eye and did some around the nose cone as detail is easily sanded off..

Also the panel lines on the fuselage roof aren’t in line with eachother so put  the sprue goop on that as well on one side and recribed those..

What i always do after scribing those lines is that i use some tamiya extra thin glue to soften the edges on these lines by just streaking the brush of the glue over the lines...

Those front cockpit windows are smoothened out with some sprue putty that i made with sprue solved in Tamiya glue this also gives some extra bonding as well..

On one point the sprue goop came onder the tape and damaged the window a small bit so i removed the what i call the whiper detail and sanded it smooth with the allclad sanding polishing set.

The Airfix clearparts are easily polished back to a perfect see through window..

 

cheers, Jan

 

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@busnproplinerfan no i didn’t i only made it with the gray sprue’s and only use it when i need small en thin applications ..

If you make a thick layer it can take a while before it is hard enough to work with and  i love to use it when sealing a wing joint and you still want too see the line detail as on this Dakota.

It is a trial and error thing as this is my first project using the sprue goop but works very nice with the soft Airfix plastic ..

 

cheers, Jan

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6 hours ago, janneman36 said:

@busnproplinerfan no i didn’t i only made it with the gray sprue’s and only use it when i need small en thin applications ..

If you make a thick layer it can take a while before it is hard enough to work with and  i love to use it when sealing a wing joint and you still want too see the line detail as on this Dakota.

It is a trial and error thing as this is my first project using the sprue goop but works very nice with the soft Airfix plastic ..

 

cheers, Jan

Ok, I just misread a bit. I thought you put your goop over the clear parts and sanded it all out. I made that mixture before and when I did I put it on to thick and yes it took a few days to cure, but was the best filler I ever used.

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13 hours ago, Dansk said:

Absolutely fantastic build Jan. Your skills and dak knowledge are very impressive.

I think that little wiper-delete detail radically improves the cockpit look.

 

Thank you for your nice comment Paul, neverthess i am still on a learning curve as i normally don’t do aircraft with metal finishes .

You may find my knowledge impressive but there is still a lot to learn about the Dakota and its details as even now i still discover new things about this aircraft and it’s predecessor the DC2..

 

cheers, Jan

Edited by janneman36
I-pad autospell corrections
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  • 2 weeks later...

It’s a great idea constructing the wings first, then connecting them to the body if it elliminates that gap/join problem jan. I might try (steal) that :)

 

By the way i’ve recently just tried a bare metal finish aircraft for the first time: a 1:48 starfighter. I used an AK interactive gloss black base and an AK interactive extreme metal aluminium and it looked pretty authentic. Different areas can be masked and subtly shaded different subtle hues to give the illusion of different metal panels. I’m definately no expert but this worked really well and it was easy. Only downside is that its slightly fragile afterwards. I would say use cotton gloves when handling the model from then on. (Or seal it with future - but you might lose the effect if its coated - i havent got to that yet). Hope that opens up an avenue of thought for you.

 

 

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Thanks Paul for that heads up i will keep it in my mind as i am still thinking  about the best way..😉

I have some various types of paint wich could work very fine like my stynylrez silver and some alclad over it..

Tryed it before on a test kit and worked very well another one is that i might put a stynylrez gloss basecoat on it and then rivet it with HGW decal rivets and foil it as my kitchenfoil is superthin and probably show the rivets trough the foil very delicately..

But must do a testrun first and look how it behaves..

Engines are fitted at the moment and the gaps need to be sanded...

Will post some pics this weekend because tomorrow i have to catch three Seakings on a farewell day...so hunting i will go!!

 

cheers, Jan

 

 

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Well i  attached the engines finally but need to clean these up a little..

It is almost a perfect fit but alligning them to get a perfect fit is difficult as you almost shove these around during the glueing stage...

First i used a strong repair gell wich isn’t superglue but gives a very strong bonding nevertheless in the seams this glue stay’s a bit rubbery...

So off it went and glued them with superglue....

I hoped to be a little further ahead but the glue slowed me down a bit on the plus side most of the seams are cleaned up so that should not giving me to much problems..

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cheers, Jan

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1 hour ago, busnproplinerfan said:

Now the fun begins, sanding. Looks like they fit pretty good.

And now allready an update ..

Just took the exhausts off as they sit in a iconvenient place with all the sanding, still have a set from my Classic plane conversion..

You can see how little of the filler stayed on to achief a babysmooth fit😎

 

 

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Cheers, Jan

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, janneman36 said:

And now allready an update ..

Just took the exhausts off as they sit in a iconvenient place with all the sanding, still have a set from my Classic plane conversion..

You can see how little of the filler stayed on to achief a babysmooth fit😎

 

 

47442807741_006a4563a8_b.jpg

 

32501086847_6e00130076_b.jpg

 

 

Cheers, Jan

 

 

 

Make new exhausts I guess is easier? Bodywork looks good. I thought of putting electric motors into mine, but I have no way to drill out the cowling nicely.

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