Scratchbuilding helicopter interior wall detail

[Doom3r]

Hi guys, 

 

For whatever reason lot of helicopter models in 72nd and some in 48 scale are missing interior wall details (sound proofing mats?) Unfortunately if you try to open doors in such models it would be clearly visible that this is missing. Is there any tips and tricks on how to scratchbuild it?

 

Thanks

[TimB]

Hi, it depends. 

A lot of the stuff is quilted, but some types have areas of smooth interiors (usually glass fibre).  Photos are essential if you cannot crawl over the real thing.

Quilted mats can be made by lining the interior with Milliput or similar, then scribing in the lines while the filler is still wet.  I used this on some 1/72 Chinook models  years ago.  Plasticard suitably scribed can also represent flatter quilted sections, and I've used this on Pumas.  In 1/32 I've vacuum formed sheets against metal mesh, then cut this into sections.   Cardboard can also be used, and craft shops sell embossing tools which I've seen used.

 

The Milliput route works well on the type of cabin liners that sag or look a bit tatty.  However, It can be a pain to then get the fuselage sides to fit together afterwards...

 

Regards

Tim

[Doom3r]

Well, in my case it is UH-1E from Hobbyboss which is I am afraid I would have to scratchbuild more than what is in the box, however original idea was to have an exercise in scratchbuilding so if I would be able to pull it it would be good.

 

I was thinking about milliput but was thinking about casting it first then try to get in model but since it is going to be rock solid when it dries it was a no go. Thought about green stuff but since it is flexible when it cures but it is so sticky that I wasn't able to produce single sheet of the material. Was thinking about plasticard but haven't figured out how to cut the shapes that eould have a texture of quilted mat. Can you suggest how I can cut shapes in plasticard to look like that?

Edited February 1, 2019 by Doom3r
smartphone corrections

[Schwarz-Brot]

Greenstuff goes through several stadiums when curing. Maybe this is new to you.

First it is sticky, the more it cures the less it sticks. So use the first few minutes to get it to where it belongs and it will stay there. Then wait a little before you go on to texture it. It also helps to lube your tools if you are impatient. I use Lip balm for this.

[TimB]

Sorry for the delay in replying.  From a quick look at a UH-1e walkaround, the quilting looks pretty flat - ie not sagging or puffy.  I'd try plastic card scored with a P-cutter, then washed over with liquid poly.  If that is too flat, then the vacuum form route might work, but the quilting would be fairly small compared, so you would need a fine mesh.  You might be able to The advantage of both methods over the Green Stuff or Milliput is that you can try several times without lengthy cleanup. 

I also just tried scoring some lines on a piece of aluminium tape (3M 425 or similar - useually known as "speed tape").  That gives a flexible quilted effect that can wrap round corners.  Just an idea.

Good luck

Tim 

[Doom3r]

On 2/2/2019 at 2:54 PM, Schwarz-Brot said:

Greenstuff goes through several stadiums when curing. Maybe this is new to you.

First it is sticky, the more it cures the less it sticks. So use the first few minutes to get it to where it belongs and it will stay there. Then wait a little before you go on to texture it. It also helps to lube your tools if you are impatient. I use Lip balm for this.

Hmm, I did not tried to adjust green stuff when it is in non sticky state b/c usually it is quite hard to do anything with it at that time so I usually do something with it in the evening then go for sleep and do not touch it until I come back from work next day . I'll try to play around with it some time. Also need to try to lube the tool with the lip balm. B/c in the past I was just dipping my tools in the water and it was working out on the general sculpting but when I was trying to do quilting lines it was a mess.

Anyway, how long usually should it cure to get to the non-sticky state?

 

@TimB, that looks quite easy and wondering why I did not thought about that. I'll try it.

[busnproplinerfan]

This is a good question, such a needed part in helo models. I think Tim's idea with the aluminum duct tape might work.

[Schwarz-Brot]

11 hours ago, Doom3r said:

Anyway, how long usually should it cure to get to the non-sticky state? 

This is a bit of a guessing game which is why I personally dislike GS. One thing to influence this is the amount of yellow to blue when mixing it. When I used GS for remodelling missing parts on miniatures I always used the excess to sculpt little things and play around with. These bits and blobs showed me what state the mixture was in.
But we're speaking of minutes. After about half an hour the GS is solid enough to put on the next layer and to permit further modelling.

 

Water is often recommended with GS. But if one thinks about its real purpose - underwater 2k sealing compound - it becomes clear it will still usually stick to wet tools.

[busnproplinerfan]

Just thought, what about Sculpey clay, have some but ever used it yet.

[DMC]

 

Just remembered I’d done something similar to what you are asking about in a Sea Sprite build I started, but never finished, some time ago.  Pics are more or less self explanatory.   I used a pasta roller to embosse the foil.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

 

 

[busnproplinerfan]

20 hours ago, DMC said:

 

Just remembered I’d done something similar to what you are asking about in a Sea Sprite build I started, but never finished, some time ago.  Pics are more or less self explanatory.   I used a pasta roller to embosse the foil.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

 

 

Where did you find the mesh? I need some. Could a regular rolling pin work?

Edited February 10, 2019 by busnproplinerfan

[DMC]

 

20 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

Where did you find the mesh? I need some. Could a regular rolling pin work?

eBay or a craft shop. It’s been a while now so can’t remember.  A rolling pin would probably work just fine if the balsa was soft enough.

 

DMC        

[busnproplinerfan]

3 hours ago, DMC said:

 

eBay or a craft shop. It’s been a while now so can’t remember.  A rolling pin would probably work just fine if the balsa was soft enough.

 

DMC        

I just found some labeled as scale fence material on evilay, maybe I'll get it. I know there are different sizes.

[Schwarz-Brot]

In Germany that mesh is called "Streckmetall". Don't know the english term. The translator gives me "expanded metal" or "meshed metal baffle". Both I don't recognize, so you'll have to veryfy that yourself. Hope that helps.

[busnproplinerfan]

4 hours ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

In Germany that mesh is called "Streckmetall". Don't know the english term. The translator gives me "expanded metal" or "meshed metal baffle". Both I don't recognize, so you'll have to veryfy that yourself. Hope that helps.

I've always heard it called expanded metal, at least with the actual material. I guess because it looks like metal that's been pulled apart. I found that with craft suppliers, they don't usually understand the term.

[Jonners]

Here's another possible solution that I read about ages ago but haven't yet needed to put to the test:

 

Go to your local supermarket and have a close look at the plastic trays that meat and all sorts of other foodstuffs are usually packaged in.  The bases of the trays are usually ribbed in some way to add strength, but you might be able to find one that has the embossed diamond quilting effect either all across the base of the tray or between the strengthening ribs. Being plastic it should be easy to cut and should work with normal plastic cement.

 

You might get some odd looks from other shoppers wondering why you are examining the underside of the packaging trays, but with luck you will find something suitable...and, ideally, with something halfway decent to eat!  

 

Jon

[busnproplinerfan]

48 minutes ago, Jonners said:

Here's another possible solution that I read about ages ago but haven't yet needed to put to the test:

 

Go to your local supermarket and have a close look at the plastic trays that meat and all sorts of other foodstuffs are usually packaged in.  The bases of the trays are usually ribbed in some way to add strength, but you might be able to find one that has the embossed diamond quilting effect either all across the base of the tray or between the strengthening ribs. Being plastic it should be easy to cut and should work with normal plastic cement.

 

You might get some odd looks from other shoppers wondering why you are examining the underside of the packaging trays, but with luck you will find something suitable...and, ideally, with something halfway decent to eat!  

 

Jon

I did that with trailer doors, unfortunatly for me it doesn't come in a large sheet, or I just haven't been able to find one yet. The idea does work just depends on the scale.

 

[s.e.charles]

https://www.dickblick.com/products/amaco-wireform-mesh/

 

good for scenery, too