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1:72 Aki Products Hawker Sea Fury FB.11


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21 hours ago, crobinsonh said:

The quilted cover was on the back seat as I checked this years ago with the FAA museum when building the Fisher Sea Fury. It should be green if I remember correctly.

 

I followed the Airfix recommendation and painted it Khaki. That's almost green, eh?   :)

 

Cheers,

Bill

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22 hours ago, crobinsonh said:

The app for real time translation is Google Translate.

Nice work on the engine. It looks like a gem of a kit.

 

Google Translate is really good if you are working with far Eastern TV remote controls and want to know what the buttons do. It is quite amazing!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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On ‎09‎/‎02‎/‎2019 at 00:06, 72modeler said:

Bill,

 

There is a free  application you can download onto a smart phone that allows you to point your device at written text on paper or on the side of a kit box, and it will translate it into Japanese or whichever language you have selected, to be read or printed. One of my modeling buddies came over the other day and pointed his phone at the side of a Tamiya ship and aircraft kit and the Japanese text was instantly translated as he moved the phone across the text on the box! I was amazed! You might want to research this to see if you have a phone that has the capability. Maybe now we can all read what's in all those Koku-Fans and FAOW's that we have sitting on our book shelves! I think the app can also be loaded onto a reader that has a built-in camera.

Mike

Or do what I do. Just bung a Babel Fish in your ear hole and gt someone to read the instructions to you, simples!

 

The quilted seat back was indeed standard on Sea Furies.

 

Nice engine btw

 

Martian 👽

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54 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

What a lovely kit, this is gonna be an awesome build Bill.  What with this and the Spitfire, you are really spoiling us.

Keep up the good work.

All the best

Chris

 

Seconded!

 

 Roger

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OK, as I posted on page 2, part of the framework is visible through the open gill aft of the exhausts. So you don't have to go back and look on the previous page, here is the photo again. Also note the small black device that looks to be exiting the open gill (it's the flat one, centered at the rear of the opening):

 

Sea Fury D

 

I'm not sure what that is, but Aki have faithfully reproduced it, including its position just slightly overlapping the fuselage side. That's going to be fun to mask!   :hmmm:

 

The cockpit firewall was glued into the starboard fuselage half, some greeblies added, and then I used a section of the resin "runner" for the engine bearer framework. I think you can see it here:

 

IMG_2866

 

Hardly any of this detail will be visible. Oh well...the framework for the port side must wait until the fuselage halves are together. Here's a view from the outside:

 

IMG_2867

 

The cockpit is just about ready to join up with the fuselage as well. It was painted Gunze H77 Tire Black, and the controls and instrument faces are decals. I think the instrument panel has about 8 individual sections on it that I cut out of decals from other kits. I added photoetch rudder pedals (from an Airwaves set). You can kinda-sorta see them in the photo. I left them unpainted so they would show up better - they would really get lost in all that black! Plus, the pilot has heavy feet and wore all the paint off of them.

 

I made a seat-back cushion out of styrene with the "quilt" lines made with a panel line scriber. The cushion and the headrest were painted Gunze H81 Khaki. The seat belts are from Eduard, and represent the early type that were tan, not the later blue ones. I'm not sure when that change was made, after Korea I think, but it may influence my choice of scheme for the markings. Hmm...

 

IMG_2868

 

IMG_2870

 

Easily knocked off stuff like the control column and the gunsight will go on later. That's it for now, I know it doesn't seem like much but I've been busy will other things - like getting yet another chunk of flesh removed for a biopsy yesterday. This one needed stitches - I'll add another scar to my collection!

 

Next up is to give a coat of clear flat to the cockpit and the firewall, add the pit and engine to the fuselage, and glue those fuselage halves together. So far, I've not had any difficulty with the superglue not working on the Aki resin, even on those pieces I forgot to clean. So I'll keep my fingers crossed.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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12 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

I'm not sure what that is, but Aki have faithfully reproduced it, including its position just slightly overlapping the fuselage side. That's going to be fun to mask!   :hmmm:

Indeed! :frantic: In cases like that, I use a blob of blue tack, but I'm definitely lazy .... :wink: 

 

Great job on the interiors and tub :clap:

 

Ciao

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On 14/02/2019 at 06:16, NAVY870 said:

Whatever that thing is at the back of the cooling gills, I'd hack it off.

I've been through all my Sea Fury pics and not a one of them has anything fitted there.

 

Hmm...now you got me thinking. I went through my Sea Fury photos (for sure not as many as yours, plus you have a Sea Fury in your garage) and it seems this "thing" (appears to be an exhaust of some kind) is present in virtually all of the restored warbird or air racer pictures, but not in the period photos. Except for these two:

 

IMG_2873

 

IMG_2872

 

Both show that thingie. The Pakistani aircraft looks to be an ex-FAA bird, as it has the arresting hook fairing. In any event, now I'm really curious what that is, and whether I should include it. Based on the number of photos that don't show it, versus those that do, I'm tempted to follow your advice and hack it off. But what the heck is it?

 

Cheers,

Bill

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I started working on the wing assembly, and the first item on the agenda was to clean up the resin "flash" that was present around the ribs of the moveable flaps. I used a brandy new scalpel blade, and luckily it wasn't very difficult. I figured it would be quite delicate, but the new blade sliced it off cleanly. There wasn't a lot, but still it had to go.

 

Next was the "skin" of the flaps, which Aki provide as three separate pieces. After removing them from the runner, I was a bit concerned on how easy it was going to be to put these on, as there is a half round portion that goes over the metal rod in the wing. Amazingly, the pieces almost snap into position. This kit continues to amaze me. Here's a photo with the skin of the flap installed on one wing, with the other still bare for comparison.

 

IMG_2874

 

After adding the three parts that make up the skin, you can see that there is a very small, just discernible gap between them. Looking through my references, this tiny gap is visible in the photos. Based on the tight fit of the other parts so far, these gaps must be intentional. Amazing attention to detail on the part of Aki.

 

Fuselage will be closed up tonight!   :)

 

Cheers,

Bill

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Questions - how were tracer rounds placed in the ammo belt? I seem to recall that every so many rounds there would be a tracer, but I don't recall the number or sequence. Also, the colour of the head of each round varied. Blue for tracer, and orange or red for a live round? I'm going from memory here, and my memory isn't quite good enough to go from, so I really have no idea! Help...     :doh:

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

PS. The fuselage is closed up now. For sure, the seams need to be cleaned up, but overall not too bad. Excellent mating of the two halves for a resin kit.

 

IMG_2878

 

When I first added the cowl ring up front, I was surprised when it seemed to be a larger diameter than the fuselage. Then I realised that the design of the parts made a nice little ledge for the engine access cover to set on. In other words, the step should be there. Maybe this photo shows it a little better:

 

IMG_2879

 

Test fitting the access panel shows that they might be a bit oversize. I'll be having the panels open, but it's nice to know that the designers of the kit thought of this. One of my access panels, however, is significantly warped - the first such resin-nasty I've encountered. Hopefully some boiling water will straighten it out (followed by some burn ointment for my fingers). The top and bottom areas of the fuselage (where there is no access cover) align perfectly with the cowl ring.

 

Next up is the painting and detailing of the cannons, which need to be installed prior to putting the wing together. I decided to paint these now, as they are easier to handle, and I can use the access covers as "masking tape" when I spray the fuselage. My question about the tracers relates to me thinking that the different colour of the head might be visible, since the rounds are moulded into the ammo mechanism. We'll see how that works out!    :)

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For the Tempest, I found that at least some were loaded 2 X HE/Incendiary alternating with 2 X SAP/Incendiary. Not sure what they would have done with the Sea Fury though. This chart is helpful for colours - see below......

 

 

Edited by Paul Bradley
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The main portions of the wing have been assembled.

 

IMG_2882

 

The fit was virtually perfect, even the small inserts with the cannon openings for the leading edge.

 

IMG_2886

 

You can see an occasional smackeral of filler on the leading edge seam, but it's not very much. This is by far the best fitting resin kit I've ever built. I didn't try to colour code the ammo cartridges (yet) as I'm not exactly sure how to space them. Maybe I don't need to do that at all, and just leave them brass (Mr. Metal Color Brass, by the way). I painted the cannon bays with my rendition of the Hawker primer (which seems to be about the same colour as the resin!)

 

I next added the one-piece wing/fuselage fairing to the fuselage - instead of to the wing as the instructions dictated. Why? Because Mr. ISTAMUTIS always has to deviate at least once. As expected it fit like a glove (and not O.J.'s). I really like the idea of producing the fairing this way, instead of trying to make it part of the wing or fuselage.

 

IMG_2884

 

IMG_2885

 

One issue did pop up, however, noticed when I was test fitting the wing to the fuselage. It involved the metal rod cast in place for the moveable flaps - the inboard end protrudes just a bit and interferes with the fit of the wing to the fairing. In the following photo, you can see the rod on the right side, but not on the left (because I filed it down on the left). Filing it down had no effect on the ability to move the flaps.

 

IMG_2881

 

I used the translation app on my phone to see what Aki have to say about this, especially since there are some arrows pointing to this area in the instructions (see, I do look at them). Here is what the app claims it says:

 

"Parts are refreshing when there are a lot of Paris etc. and those which processed the tip of disposable chopsticks and attached paper file where seams are missing because it does not fit."

 

Well I don't know about you, but I certainly found the parts refreshing. But I'm hanging onto my chopsticks.

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

PS. Extra points for diagramming the translated sentence.   :)

 

PPS. One part of the translated page makes some sense. It says "Please cut the broken line part at the appropriate time." I think I know what this means. You can see above that there are small gaps between the flaps, but only on the skin section that was added during assembly. I suspect that Aki is telling us to cut the other part of the flap to continue the gap and essentially make three flaps instead of one, but only do it after the skin has been added.

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8 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said:

When you started this I thought you were throwing money away. After all, there are several plastic kits available for a fraction of the cost....

But now I want one as well! I've never seen a resin kit so well designed. The detail is exquisite.

 

I had a few of them, too - Special Hobby, Trumpeter, Pioneer, Airfix (which looked surprisingly just like the Pioneer)...sold them all when I bought this kit. But - throwing money away? On models? I wasn't aware that was possible.    :)

 

You are right, this is a superbly designed kit. The only other resin kit I've seen (not that I've seen that many) that approaches its level of quality, detail and finesse of casting is the SBS kit of the DH 88 Comet.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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Now she's looking like a proper aeroplane. The wing assembly fit extremely well with the fuselage. Somewhere along the way I lost the gunsight (I should rephrase that - I knocked off the gunsight) but I'm pretty sure I still have some resin sights left from a previous project. We'll get that straightened out later.

 

IMG_2898

 

IMG_2899

 

I also assembled the main landing gear struts, the two main pieces just snapping together. I will be adding the gear to the model prior to painting - I know some folks wait until after painting, but I've always done it this way, and my wife says I'm a stubborn old grouch. So I'm not changing!

 

So, let's talk about this nice blue RAN bird. With those restored ex-Iraqi warbirds flying around with that scheme, you have to sift through a lot to find what I think are actual period photos. Here's what I've found on the net - is it true? I don't know, maybe @NAVY870 knows. Apparently, there were two Sea Furies painted in the overall Oxford Blue scheme, and they were used as a display team in the early 60s. The two were WH588 114/NW and WH589 115/NW. Here are a couple of photos of the two:

 

Sea_Furies_WH558_and_WH559

 

Sea_Furies_WH558_and_WH559a.sized

 

I found these colour photos of WH589:

 

Sea_Fury_WH589

 

Sea_Fury_FB_Mk_11_WH589_2

 

Note that the spinner is blue, not white as shown in the decal sheet or as in the restored warbird. It's hard to tell, but this overall blue scheme may be similar to the USN overall Dark Sea Blue scheme in that the wheel wells, gear doors, and gear struts may also be blue as is the arresting hook. The wheels appear to be aluminium. I read on an R/C site that the inside of the flaps were also blue. Hmm...I sure hope Steve tells me what to do before I do something naughty!    :)

 

In any event, I'm thinking that this blue RAN bird will look really nice setting next to a Bearcat. What do you guys think?

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

PS. What I learned about WH589 (from http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/). Not sure how current this is:

 

WH589 115/NW
FB.11
Delivered 1952     
Brought on charge M7/03/52.
Struck off charge 23/09/63.
Now in USA. Aircraft is highly modified for air racing and flies as "Furias".
Owned by Bill Rogers and Dale Stolzer of "Everett" Washington USA.

 

There are two other examples of Fury/Sea Fury wearing these same markings
The first was an ex-Iraqi Fury registered VH-HFX in 1985.

It was exported to UK in 1991 returning to Australia in 2011 as VH-ORN. It has since returned to Europe.

The second is an ex-Royal Navy Sea Fury currently registered F-AZXJ. It has no Australian connection.

 

VH-HFX 115/NW
VH-ORN 107/Q     
FB.10     
ex-Iraqi Fury FB.10 c/n 37534
Imported by the late Guido Zuccoli
Registered VH-HFX 22/04/1985 and displayed in an RAN scheme. (115/NW)
Sold to Bruce Andrews of Melbourne
It first flew marked as WE729 and this was later changed to WH589
Exported to UK 1991
Registered G-BTTA to Ray Hanna at Duxford
Flew marked as Netherlands Navy 115 , Iraq 243, Royal Navy PR772 (107/Q) and VW238 (107/Q)
Exported to USA 2000. Registered NF103FD
Exported to South Africa 12/04/2001. Registered ZU-SEA
Returned to Australia and registered VH-ORN 6/04/2010 to Gus Lasard
Sold by Platinum Fighter to a European buyer, registration VH-ORN cancelled 17/05/2012
Reported to be in storage at Precision Aerospace, Wangaratta.

 

"WE729" 115/K
This is not a valid RAN serial or aircraft but included for reference only.
This was VH-HFX an ex-Iraqi Fury FB.10 c/n 37534
Later carried "WH589"

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