Jump to content

Recommended Posts

52 minutes ago, Jonners said:

Well, I think I'll be adding that one to my list of 'why-didn't-I-think-of-that?' top tips.

 

I've been using solder of different gauges for some time. It doesn't bounce back after bending it like other wire types. Harder to find but worth it, a strand of .015" makes great straps in this scale.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
28 minutes ago, SmashedGlass said:

Lead fly tying wire is available in sporting goods stores (fishing section) in sizes down to .010.

 

Your likely correct. I usually managed to find a bit from convenient sources for me.

Bits at a time for now. More plastic card to shim up those parts that don't quite fit perfect. 

 

l9fzmPh.jpg?1

 

SY04sEK.jpg?1

 

The kit stabilizers had only the leading edge slotted version  and the F-4F used the non-slotted type. As well the triangular patches on the topside seemed only installed on some aircraft and this airframe did not have them. To remove the slots completely looked to leave the chord a bit narrow, so I stretched some more sprue and used my lacquer thinner to melt it in.

 

lbUp8pp.jpg?1

 

I hope to make some progress again this coming week with some scheduled days off work.

 

Craig

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

A tardy update but still at it. Outboard wings attached and starting the rebuild of the droopy ailerons. The outboard wing sections attach okay, but not perfect.

 

Sza6sKw.jpg?1

 

Manufacturers always seem to overdo the pin hole effect on the intakes and none as overdone as on this Hasegawa kit. Massive recessed sections. I've covered and blended in with .005" plastic. For the noted sections I will spray with an extremely light coat of smoke clear, leaving them separate until painted.

 

0Bnk5Eg.jpg?1

 

The paint booth will be prepped soon. I purchased a new camera for my photography hobby so it bit into my spare time.

 

I will edit this to add this photo starting the boarding ladder scratch using the ZM 48th version as my master.

 

vloyzB2.jpg?1

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice progress, Craig :clap: :clap:

Well done on the variramps, I used a similar method when I built my last Phantom - as you said, Hasegawa really overdid this area

 

Ciao

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/19/2019 at 1:03 PM, baldwin8 said:

I will edit this to add this photo starting the boarding ladder scratch using the ZM 48th version as my master.

 

Looking forward to how you do the ladder so I can copycat!!

 

Gene K

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Gene K said:

 

Looking forward to how you do the ladder so I can copycat!!

 

By all means. Here is some solder work I did last summer on a Canadian Leopard tank mod. The kit didn't come with turret baskets so I used a plastic one as the master and manufactured a pair. I do enjoy the soldering, it will take a gentle touch to get the ladder rungs all even.

 

tl3mefg.jpg?1

 

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The boarding ladder is another thing I scratch built back then. Likewise, it was a solder job. However, having seen your last pic, I'm under the impression that your version will come out miles better than mine... 👏

 

 

Edited by giemme
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, baldwin8 said:

I do enjoy the soldering, it will take a gentle touch to get the ladder rungs all even.

 

Very impressive touch indeed. What equipment will you be using on the  F-4 ladder (workstation, solder, flux, wire,  etc)? Do any soldering videos?

 

Gene K

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, baldwin8 said:

By all means. Here is some solder work I did last summer on a Canadian Leopard tank mod. The kit didn't come with turret baskets so I used a plastic one as the master and manufactured a pair. I do enjoy the soldering, it will take a gentle touch to get the ladder rungs all even.

tl3mefg.jpg?1

Sorry to bother you, I'm looking at doing a Future build of a Leopard. Preferably in Canadian markings from the 1990’s ? May i ask which kit you built ? Was it a Mk.1 or Mk.2 ? 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

16 hours ago, Gene K said:

 

Very impressive touch indeed. What equipment will you be using on the  F-4 ladder (workstation, solder, flux, wire,  etc)? Do any soldering videos?

 

Gene K

 

On shift today, I will get some pics and information of my setup. My soldering is nothing special but there are Youtubers that can better explain the process, but I will show how I approach a project like this.

 

7 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Sorry to bother you, I'm looking at doing a Future build of a Leopard. Preferably in Canadian markings from the 1990’s ? May i ask which kit you built ? Was it a Mk.1 or Mk.2 ? 

 

No bother. Of course I assume you know your way around a tank? My Leopard is actually a 2A4 CAN, meaning, our (the Canadian Army) version of a 2A4 for which I used the Meng kit. For a 1990's version you will need to go a totally different route but if you need to research check out leopardclub.ca .

 

This is my 2A4 before completion.

 

TlOfkXJ.jpg?1

 

Thank you for checking in.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are some pics of my soldering work and setup. A Weller with adjustable temp settings. I keep it at the setting shown, not too hot and not too cold, seems to work well. Earlier in my aviation training along the way we were given a course on soldering but I don't think the Avionics guys ever thought we would seriously do any work on the aircraft.

 

Japanese Modeller Uemura Akihiro inspired me with his solder work.

 

bAI3pU7.jpg?1

 

8f4c9nc.jpg?1

 

I prefer a paste flux. Some solder I've accumulated over the years from shops and co-workers tool boxes. I've got enough to last for all the modelling I will ever do.

 

2PDkvyd.jpg

 

Getting the first rungs attached is crucial to making sure everything is straight. The wood block helps dissipate the heat and a heavy cardboard helps keeps things aligned.

 

Cyffr0c.jpg?1

 

Rather than melt a bunch of solder on the tip of the iron, I prefer to lay some flux where I want the solder to go and cut very small pieces of solder then place them on the gel flux. Then using the tip of the iron placed closed to the solder joint touching the brass and allowing the heat to transfer to the area I want joined and melting the solder. This picture show the small pieces of solder before I apply the heat. 

 

XMYFiap.jpg?1

 

I hope I come across clear in this technique I discovered another modeller was using.

 

The first rungs in place and soldered areas will be filed down when complete. The ladder has 7 rungs, so the top, bottom and middle are attached and the other 4 will be placed evenly between.

 

XW3nLBW.jpg?1

 

Little assemblies like this bring a great deal of satisfaction in a build.

 

Thank you for checking this out.

 

Craig

 

 

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Gathering the paint for the application. No great matches available but I pieced together some bottles for a close match. Their Hues are similar, they will just have to be toned down a certain extent. The Revell paint is not available in Canada, so it will be a combination of Vallejo and Tamiya.

 

NFhdWVq.jpg?1

 

What the final colours should come close to, with some scale lightening.

 

ZfFiLj5.jpg?1

 

The ladder just requires the top step added then painting, wearing.

 

U8s8K3x.jpg?1

 

Sorry for the slow progress, but still on track.

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/24/2019 at 11:07 AM, baldwin8 said:

Here are some pics of my soldering work and setup.

Thanks, Craig. Some interesting tips for me to try.

 

Gene K

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, baldwin8 said:

The ladder just requires the top step added then painting, wearing.

:wow:Amazing, top quality job! 

 

Ciao

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Painting had a hiccup with the first attempt looking rather too toned-down, with most being stripped or sanded, I now present the second attempt. The radome is now painted and a couple of touch ups and the second lighter grey to be applied. Happier with the result those colours for me were hard to duplicate. Photos of actual aircraft showed variance in the look from very soft edges and overall looking faded to pristine condition and hard paint edges.

 

JN4Aojp.jpg?1

 

Thanks for checking in on progress.

  • Like 12
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

My modelling is like a multi-lane expressway at times. This spring, Lufthansa brought their new A350-900's to Montreal on a daily flight. Being an aircraft technician and Airbus lover, I just had to build the Revell in their livery. The F-4F was put on temporary hold, but definitely not forgotten. With the A350 now completed back to the subject of this thread. Also I had come to the realization there was video game I was playing that was getting in the way of my life, cleaned my computer and now focusing on all the things I love in my life. I feel much better and focused.

 

So concentrating on modelling, I felt my airbrushing could be better. Struggling for many years with a siphon Aztec and Iwata, I finally realized I needed a gravity feed version to meet my needs. Purchasing the Neo for Iwata CN, finally airbrushing is more like had dreamt it should be like. No clogging, finer lines with less pressure.

 

Went over and touched up areas that needed it but still getting used to the new toy. Gloss coat tomorrow hopefully and on with washes, decals etc..

 

jmYhQqe.jpg?1

 

Thanks for looking in, all comments appreciated.

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you @giemme. Steady as she goes. Gloss, decals, ink wash for the panel lines and sealing coat before the final matte coat. Any one considering a gravity feed airbrush, get one, not only less clogging with less pressure, my compressor comes on much less.

 

XfbOAMk.jpg?1

 

gxNTwH8.jpg?1

 

The boundary layer sections on the intakes ramps were filled in and Tamiya "smoke" used to imitate the fine holes. Ladder primed and "ground support" yellow. Just some chipping to add to the ladder and top platform. White balance is off in the final picture.

 

qfSKI6J.jpg?1

 

Next pictures will be after completion. 

 

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, baldwin8 said:

The boundary layer sections on the intakes ramps were filled in and Tamiya "smoke" used to imitate the fine holes.

I like that solution :wink:  Nice panel lines wash :clap: 

 

And I can only vouch for gravity fed airbrushes :thumbsup2:

 

Ciao

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...