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Bolton Paul Defiant MK1 1:72 Airfix brush painted


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My latest effort...   First time using resin bits via AML and decals ...  Six stub exhausts.. 

Piloted by Flying Officer Vlastimil Vesely 1941 96 Squadron, Cranage...

Humbrol 33 black and Humbrol 27 grey used for the night finish painted over Humbrol silver as a base.

Kept the weathering down to minimum just rubbed the night off very gently and a little pencil and crushed pastel..  Afraid the pics don't show the weathering very effectively. 

The kit itself is a lovely build well done Airfix...  The pilot and gunner are pretty good and paint up well, but the gunner you cant see him.  Canopy and turret no mask set used very challenging that turret.

I struggled with the AML decals, they are very thin and shiny ..  Sadly I feel the wing rondels let my build down, it won't be going at the front of the cabinet...

 

 

DSC_0393DSC_0396DSC_0381DSC_0377DSC_0361

 

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The patchy finish looks realistic.

 

As for the roundels, try applying a bit of Tamiya extra thin to the silvering.

 

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11 minutes ago, IanC said:

The patchy finish looks realistic.

 

As for the roundels, try applying a bit of Tamiya extra thin to the silvering.

 

Does that work? Do you apply to the sides of the decal or over the top?

 

@Hairtrigger, great build, I have one of these for the night fighter GB. 

Edited by Hockeyboy76
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1 minute ago, Hockeyboy76 said:

Does that work? Do you apply to the sides of the decal or over the top?

@Hairtrigger

 

It's helped me in the past. Apply a little around the edge of the roundel - just where the silvering is. One pass and allow to dry. Then repeat if required. It's not always effective but I've found it's worth a try, especially if varnish has been applied over the decal.

 

If no varnish then repeated applications of microsol, after pricking the surface with a new scalpel blade, is probably the way to go.

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If I may, I'll offer a few tips/ suggestions:

1) did you give it a gloss coat before applying the transfers? A nice glossy surface usually avoids silvering but...

2) a decal setting/ softening solution will help. As others have said, you may need to make holes in the decal with a pin to let the solution soak in. Some people use Klear for this. I've experimented with Klear but I find that it acts too quickly and the transfer can't be moved.

3) so will pressing down on the transfer with a cotton wool make-up remover pad, normal cotton wool or a washing no-up sponge soaked in VERY hot (i.e. just off the boil) water. Remember to wear rubber gloves though.

4) I've read that you can remove carrier film by rubbing the transfer gently with a white spirit-soaked cotton bud. I've tried it, also using Tamiya acrylic thinner, but the results were so-so

5) you could also apply repeated layers of gloss varnish in the area of the transfer and lightly sand it back. I believe car modellers do this but I've never tried it.

6) some transfers are just rubbish and will always silver, no matter what.

 

Anyway, I think the paint finish is very nice - it doesn't look like the lump of black plastic finish that I usually get when painting all black subjects and I'm most impressed with the canopy framing - you just have a very steady hand.

Edited by Beard
Because the anti-rude word software changed p.r.i.c.k ( as in with a pin) to "gentleman's parts"!
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looks vey nice and not obviously hand painted - and so what if it is? Is there a rule saying we need to identify old school techniques in this modern world of modelling technology that we work in...

 

I have a friend called Paul Bolton and think of this plane every time I see or speak to him - your model is also a great reminder.

 

 

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3 hours ago, IanC said:

The patchy finish looks realistic.

 

As for the roundels, try applying a bit of Tamiya extra thin to the silvering.

 

Yes, I have heard of this technique before on this site...   If I can sum up the courage I might try that...   If all goes wrong I have the original Airfix transfers, I have more success with them ....   The AML decals first ever tried and are not nice to apply once on a swine to move around.    I use CIF as can't seem to get Pledge locally ..

Cheers

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A trick I learnt many years ago from Dave Neale, who is still the secretary of the  Rotherham IPMS branch, when Klear first appeared was to thin it 50:50 with deionised water and paint it on where the decal will go and apply the decal, works with even fairly stiff decals and being thinned it gives a bit more movement time. Still works, especially with Modeldecals

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3 hours ago, Beard said:

If I may, I'll offer a few tips/ suggestions:

1) did you give it a gloss coat before applying the transfers? A nice glossy surface usually avoids silvering but...

2) a decal setting/ softening solution will help. As others have said, you may need to make holes in the decal with a pin to let the solution soak in. Some people use Klear for this. I've experimented with Klear but I find that it acts too quickly and the transfer can't be moved.

3) so will pressing down on the transfer with a cotton wool make-up remover pad, normal cotton wool or a washing no-up sponge soaked in VERY hot (i.e. just off the boil) water. Remember to wear rubber gloves though.

4) I've read that you can remove carrier film by rubbing the transfer gently with a white spirit-soaked cotton bud. I've tried it, also using Tamiya acrylic thinner, but the results were so-so

5) you could also apply repeated layers of gloss varnish in the area of the transfer and lightly sand it back. I believe car modellers do this but I've never tried it.

6) some transfers are just rubbish and will always silver, no matter what.

 

Anyway, I think the paint finish is very nice - it doesn't look like the lump of black plastic finish that I usually get when painting all black subjects and I'm most impressed with the canopy framing - you just have a very steady hand.

Thanks ...   I'll bear your suggestions in mind.   The area the rondels where applied did have a slight sheen...  I'm wondering to finish off with a matt spray of some sort all over Mmhhh..   food for thought.

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6 minutes ago, Mr T said:

A trick I learnt many years ago from Dave Neale, who is still the secretary of the  Rotherham IPMS branch, when Klear first appeared was to thin it 50:50 with deionised water and paint it on where the decal will go and apply the decal, works with even fairly stiff decals and being thinned it gives a bit more movement time. Still works, especially with Modeldecals

Oh just realised the CIF was neat.....  I did a Me 262 recently and the decals went on an absolute dream used 50 /50 sure I did  .....  Now wondering if to take off the decals and try the original Airfix, the other decals I can live with...  Cheers.

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3 hours ago, Gimme Shelter said:

looks vey nice and not obviously hand painted - and so what if it is? Is there a rule saying we need to identify old school techniques in this modern world of modelling technology that we work in...

 

I have a friend called Paul Bolton and think of this plane every time I see or speak to him - your model is also a great reminder.

 

 

Cheers.   Not abiding to any un-written rule by conveying brush painted just describing the technique used.     

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