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i may sound like a realy dumb question but how do you use setting fluid and what is the best one to get

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Hello @SA80A2AR ... I use the Micro Set/Sol solutions. I just wet the decal in rather hot bathing temperature water. While it is sitting soaking on the paper, i brush the location on the model with the micro set. Then i place the decal and get it situated. Once the decal is in the position i want it in. I gently blot/wick up the excess fluid using kitchen paper towel. After doing a few decals in a location i go back and brush the micro sol on. Once the micro sol is on i never touch them, they need to be left for a long time. The micro sol essentially melts the decal into the paint/clear coat so they are almost impossible to remove. I use future/pledge as a clear coat. After the decals are all placed, i give the entire model a 2nd clear coat and eventually a flat coat. I hope this helps you ? 

 

Dennis

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yep.

 

so micro sol and set are good ones

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Setter=positioning/gluing (allegedly)

Softener= the stuff that makes decals go in to panel lines, round curves, take a trip to your nans etc and is much more useful.

 

Decals= all are not the same, use the Mr Hobby stuff with Begemot and you'll get a Jackson Pollock, Xtradecals/Microscale decals are made for use with Microsol/Set and so on. The only universal solutions are the Daco ones pictured here and available from @little-cars . They come in 3 strengths, work brilliantly and progressively with any silk screen/Alps decals*, are made by an expert decal maker  and should be in every modellers tool kit. Currently what I use is the following

 

solutions.jpg&key=1fea361a7692da941c3ad1

 

 

Problems:

Some solutions will react with/attack acrylic gloss coats, lots of variables, none will make a dent in my preferred gloss coat which is Mr Super UV cut 112 ( also known in the car trade as LS184 (29184) Nitron High) which is a nitrocellulose  lacquer

*Some decals will not respond to solutions at all, like Peddinghaus & Drawdecals as they printed on a Roland sign printer and not silk screened. For these I use incredibly hot water on a paper towel, which incidentally works wonders with ordinary decals and helps raise your pain threshold for having boiling water on your hands- useful if you're caught by the enemy and tortured.

 

Others:

Some folk like to use neat cellulose thinner :rofl::

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2006/10/stuff_eng_benshahar_bf110.htm

 

There's a good technique involving diluted Future/Klear:  can cause problems with acrylic gloss coats for obvious reasons, its pinned to the top of this forum and I used it here

 

Postscript:

"Like all of life, there is no simple answer  to your question only a journey of joyous discovery with much handing over of cash, grasshopper.."

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Generally setting solutions work fine, but every now and again I've had problems with the decals blistering and staying that way. So lately I've been using a different method suggested by @stevehnz:

 

 

So far this method has worked very well – with no unexpected results. It's cheaper as well.

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On 1/24/2019 at 1:51 PM, Gorby said:

Generally setting solutions work fine, but every now and again I've had problems with the decals blistering and staying that way. So lately I've been using a different method suggested by @stevehnz:

 

Is there an echo in here?.. I mentioned it, posted a link and showed it in use...😉

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