shortCummins Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 So after fixing the mask seepage on the insignia I used some ‘post-it’ notes to quickly mask some panels. I then sprayed a mixture of approx. 90% Mr Color thinner + 50/50 Tamiya XF-64 red brown, XF-69 NATO black and used the paper mask to spray along. Other panels were masked with Tamiya tape. The prop spinners were also sprayed with the same mix. The rear of the front wing was lightly covered with a 60-40 mix of Mr Colour thinner and Tamiya XF-51 khaki drab the inner edge of the ailerons were given a light spray of 70-30 mix of Mr Color thinner and XF-49 khaki A couple of panels on the underside of the wing were masked and painted with Tamiya XF-25 light sea grey Next I’ll be adding some chipping and preparing to add the stencil decals. until next time as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clive_t Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Nice, subtle tonal variations there - looks good to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Now you've turned up the shading to 11! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadMax8 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Plane is looking good so far. P-38s are one of my all-time favorite fighters. I’ve got a little PSA regarding the fit of the booms: for some reason, the gear bay interferes with the top of the boom when assembled. The trick to remove the step you’ve had to deal with is to file down the top of the gear bay. This worked the trick on the Hasegawa P-38J I built years ago. That joint still requires attention, but much less than it normally would. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 I can’t believe the last time I posted any work on this was on March 1st! Where did all that time go? Life really does get in the way sometimes, hopefully it won’t be as long before my next update. The prop spinners looked a little too worn for my taste In this photo it shows the streaking far more than in real life as I gave them a thinned coat of the yellow Exhaust staining was depicted firstly with some highly thinned 90/10 Tamiya XF-57 buff and then a mixture of approx. 90% Mr Color thinner + 50/50 Tamiya XF-64 red brown, XF-69 NATO black and a single drop of vallejo 70.814 burnt red I thought that the inner wing area looked a wee bit blank, so I broke out ‘Rosie the Riveter’ and free-handed some rivets, I really should have done this before paint. They're not too visible at the moment but they should take the weathering wash and become more noticeable? Next I’ll be starting the weathering. until next time as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Really nice work here, John. Happy to see the progress. Love the tonal variations - it's hard to make an OD/NG paint scheme visually interesting, but you've done it here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 I don’t know if I mentioned that for some reason no instructions were included with my kit, I’ve managed to download a copy from galaxy kits however the decal placement illustrations are very small and poor quality so I’ve decided to omit most of the stencil decals. The airframe was given a coat of aqua gloss and I then applied the some of the kit decals, stencils, nose number etc. These were then sealed with another coat of aqua gloss and an oil-wash Tamiya panel line accent color - dark brown applied After leaving the oil-wash to dry for around 20 minutes I rubbed off the excess using both kitchen paper towels and q-tips. The dark brown oil-wash didn’t show up too well on the green so I thought I’d try a clay wash of UMP concrete Once the wash had dried… Kitchen towel and Q-tips were used to remove most of the dried wash I left the wash(s) overnight and then gave the whole airframe a coat of Vallejo matt acrylic varnish Next I’ll be using oil’s to add additional weathering. until next time as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 Once the flat coat had dried, I left it overnight, I broke out my very cheap oil paint set, from PoundLand, and added dots of colour, with the tip of a tooth pick, white, orange, brown and dark brown. Underside These “dots” were then blended using a damp, odourless turpentine, broad brush brushing in the direction of the airflow. Topside. Dots of white, yellow, brown & dark brown. These were also blended. These photos were taken shortly after I’d blended the oils, the photos show quite a contrast between where the oils are and aren’t, in “the flesh” I can’t see so obvious a difference. I’ll leave this to dry overnight and then have a look to see if I need to adjust anything Next I’ll be either adjusting the oils and/or assembling the missing bits, propellors, drop tanks, landing gear etc. until next time as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 Wow! This oil dot trick works wonders, that's for sure! I need to find some courage to try it sometime! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted June 28, 2019 Author Share Posted June 28, 2019 16 hours ago, Christer A said: Wow! This oil dot trick works wonders, that's for sure! I need to find some courage to try it sometime! just remember less is more, small dots of oil paint go far further than you'd expect. don't over-do it, let the turpentine evaporate fully before deciding to add more oils, often the effect will appear very different when the turps drys. I tend to use it for "streaking" but I've seen others use multiple different coloured oil dots as a filter wash to give subtile colour variations, I've not tried this as I'm happy with "black basing" give it a go, see if it works for you rgds John(shortCummins) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted July 7, 2019 Author Share Posted July 7, 2019 I left the oil dot weathering to fully cure, overnight, and noticed that the turpentine had left the paintwork with a noticeably different finish, it didn’t show in the photos that I took?, so I gave it another coat of Vallejo matt varnish to ‘even it out’. Whilst I waited for the varnish to dry I turned my attention to the propellers. Strange that Hasagawa provide 8 blades? Should have "fixed" that seam, too late now. The spinner cone has a very loose fit However when the blades are fitted they act as a “lock”… …and hold everything in place. So make sure that you don't attach the propellors to the spinner BEFORE trying to attach them to the nacelles! Next the landing gear. until next time as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 That was an interesting catch up, thank you. It's looking just the job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted July 8, 2019 Author Share Posted July 8, 2019 The wheels were given a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer and the hubs were then given a coat of Vallejo acrylic metal color semi matte alum. 77.716. Tamiya panel liner dark brown was used to highlight the wheel hub details Nose landing gear The instructions are a “bit vague” how the support struts fit to the main nose gear, so I may have got them in the wrong place Wheels fitted …and she’s standing on her own feet (as it were) Landing bay doors fitted A combination of vague instructions, no connection points and mostly my mistook of fitting the landing bays to the wrong side(s) meant the fitting of the gear doors was an interesting episode. Next I’ll be adding the external fuel tanks and other bits ’n' pieces. until next time as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted July 9, 2019 Author Share Posted July 9, 2019 Some time ago I watched a YouTube video by Paul Budzik where he created a 1:32 scale blade antenna from brass, not having any suitable brass I thinned the kit supplied part with UMP sanding sticks. You can watch Paul’s excellent video here… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyazawINPl0 The pitot tube was attached to the lower wing And both rear-wing counter-weights, top and bottom, were added Drop-tanks were glued to their pylons And finally the nose machine-guns There’s a little paint touching-up required, I’ll be doing that and then adding the cockpit glass, aerial wire and finishing her off. until next time as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted July 10, 2019 Author Share Posted July 10, 2019 Aircraft Recognition Lights, yellow, green and red, all Tamiya clear paints X-24 X-25 x-27, were attached to the underside with Micro Krystal Klear. I want to display the aircraft with the canopy open. The Lightening had side windows that could be wound down into the fuselage to allow the pilot entry or exit from the cockpit so I decided to have these side windows partially down. First I placed some masking tape to act as a guide and then used a razor saw to cut the window(s) to size. Micro Krystal Klear was used to fix the windows in place. The antenna wire was made from EZY Line And the final piece, the top canopy was nailed on. With that I’m calling her done, far from perfect but finished. You can see the RFI photos here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235057829-hasegawa-148-p-38j-lightning/ until next time as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
politicni komisar Posted July 10, 2019 Share Posted July 10, 2019 Landing gear struts and wheel its wrong!!!!! The tires are on the outside!!! picture found on the Internet for comparison P.k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now