Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

shortCummins

Hasegawa 1:48 P-38J Lightning

Recommended Posts

45936213025_06636b98b6_o.jpg

 

For my next build I’ve decided to have a go at Hasegawa’s P-38J Lightning ‘Virginia Marie’.

45936213115_cf375b570f_o.jpg

 

Rather than build the ‘main’ subject, ‘Virginia Marie’, I’ve plumped for the olive drab/neutral grey version from the 383rd Fighter Squadron 364 Fighter Group N2-K.

45936213085_1250c10bbb_o.jpg

 

I’ve got a set of Montex masks, mm48051, which include canopy masks, national insignia and tactical markings also I got some Eduard PE, FE208, I’m not sure how much of the PE I’ll use, probably some of the instrument panel and seat harness.

 

 

First off I’ll be starting the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After what you did to that Eduard Spitfire, expectations are high!

Can't wait to see you paint olive drab 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Christer A said:

After what you did to that Eduard Spitfire, expectations are high!

Can't wait to see you paint olive drab 🙂

thanks Christer A

I'll be attempting the 'hair spray' method on this, I've not tried it before so it could get very interesting!

 

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

31920578977_903955dd7e_o.jpg

 

I’ve decided not to use all of the photo-etch however I will be adding some additional plumbing using lead and thin electrical wire.

The cockpit floor/radio shelf was bent, the radio shelf wouldn’t have sat level, so I used a fine bladed saw and cut part was through, then glued it in place so that it now sits level.

During my research I found some photos of ducting on the cockpit floor.

46137076324_2b24e68b9c_o.jpg

The painted PE will be over-sprayed to match the rest of the cockpit, for the leavers I’ve used some electrical wire and I have also added some pipework to the fuselage sides, here I’ve used ‘artistic licence’ as I wanted to add some interest rather than accuracy.

39897259993_b9c438846f_o.jpg

39897259883_9e623897ea_o.jpg

 

The seat PE will also be repainted.

46137075924_282777b10e_o.jpg

 

Whilst I had the wire and CA out I added some pipework to the wheel wells.

46137075754_9423ef9126_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be starting painting the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice start! I really wish those Hasegawa P-38:s were a bit more easy to get hold of...

You said that you'd try for hairspray chipping?

Way back I had a go with salt chipping on a 1/72 P-38, and that experiment was a success, even though I botched some decals on it and never finished it...

P1010675.jpg

 

But the kit is still available somewhere, and maybe I should dig out again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 25/01/2019 at 07:04, Christer A said:

Nice start! I really wish those Hasegawa P-38:s were a bit more easy to get hold of...

You said that you'd try for hairspray chipping?

Way back I had a go with salt chipping on a 1/72 P-38, and that experiment was a success, even though I botched some decals on it and never finished it...

P1010675.jpg

 

But the kit is still available somewhere, and maybe I should dig out again!

nice result, you've now got me thinking about trying salt, I've not tried either and I like the 'mottled' effect you've achieved, something for me to think about

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

46137075464_2ba62b11cc_o.jpg

 

To ‘unify’ the different materials, plastic, PE and wire everything was given a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

32997119198_558c8e5614_o.jpg

32997119118_5fd107088a_o.jpg

46872371331_5605625c92_o.jpg

46820521772_9961014d62_o.jpg

46820521572_a2fd2d69cc_o.jpg

46820521392_818b803f93_o.jpg

 

Once the primer had fully cured the main colour of Alkan BS:283 aircraft grey/green was applied.

33008140248_82c5494f76_o.jpg

39918636953_e8636c95c5_o.jpg

33008139938_7d04143a38_o.jpg

33008139818_12d5bfb1d1_o.jpg

 

Next various panels, boxes and leavers were picked out with Tamiya XF-69 NATO black.

39929572203_026f96caae_o.jpg

39929572103_2ebe65f264_o.jpg

39929571953_b55a5818f6_o.jpg

 

Other levers and handles were painted red, green or yellow and placards of black or red, once again I’m going with ‘artistic licence’ rather than accuracy.

39929571783_fd129b611b_o.jpg

39929571643_29775d0ebc_o.jpg

45979748305_b17eab2735_o.jpg

45979748075_6eae8be5a4_o.jpg

 

Tamiya XF-16 flat aluminium was used to dry-brush various elements.

45979747895_7ef7de3d06_o.jpg

45979747695_e4d0a5d0ce_o.jpg

45979747555_7a1e403fea_o.jpg

45979747385_1501bfa644_o.jpg

45979747245_6d12e7e545_o.jpg

31953037667_c6d9a215b6_o.jpg

 

The headrest was painted Tamiya XF-64.

31953037587_9bf85c416b_o.jpg

 

The instrument panel cowl was painted Tamiya XF-49 Khaki

31953037477_268e343d77_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’l be assembling the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks great!

Why did you use British Grey/Green for cockpit and not Interior green?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Christer A said:

It looks great!

Why did you use British Grey/Green for cockpit and not Interior green?

because its the paint I've got and by the time I've added the panel line wash it'll darken it all down

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

31953037367_d167c95bc6_o.jpg

 

Everything was given a coat or two of aqua gloss and then a wash of Tamiya panel line highlighter dark brown.

46852444952_2a5c3e41da_o.jpg

46852444802_63f2f963d5_o.jpg

46852444682_1052fe068c_o.jpg

46852444582_3a160238cd_o.jpg

46852444452_5cd85f7a9c_o.jpg

 

When the panel liner dried it was sealed with a coat of vallejo matt acrylic varnish.

 

The Eduard PE set includes a 2-part instrument panel.

46170379254_7a07db42a1_o.jpg

Then I stuck the kits switches to the PE and attached both to the IP support

45980624085_6c5ecaca61_o.jpg

 

I found some PE placards in the spares draw so I decided to add them

45980624025_148df3d8da_o.jpg

46170378944_b374185575_o.jpg

46170378804_413990069e_o.jpg

 

The PE harness was glued to the seat.

46907151961_aceedf0459_o.jpg

 

The various parts of the cockpit were then nailed together.

33031754458_ee5f58db24_o.jpg

46907151721_dfc368bb84_o.jpg

46907151501_c90a6bcb53_o.jpg

33031753948_a3ced5e025_o.jpg

46907151291_f4642af6c4_o.jpg

 

I’ve placed the top of the fuselage on top of the bottom half just to see how it looks.

33031753688_5fa2bdcf55_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be working on the wheel wells.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see you have constructed a lovely cockpit, detail oriented, lovingly made and, like many, will be completely gone once the fuselage it closed up.  Beautiful work though!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

46907150971_edf5c78c35_o.jpg

 

For the wheel wells I’ve added some pipework using some electrical wire.

33040436768_706df5d718_o.jpg

 

The various components of the wheel wells were given a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

33040436648_0244065157_o.jpg

33040436548_1e36ef30b5_o.jpg

33040436448_7d4515137d_o.jpg

33040436318_138ae27fec_o.jpg

 

These were then given a coat of Tamiya XF-4 yellow green.

46915731751_b3137af114_o.jpg

46915731571_bec59c435a_o.jpg

46915731681_85d4c63f1c_o.jpg

46915731411_feed2d7b60_o.jpg

 

The pipework was detail painted with vallejo 71.065 steel.

46915731291_d4f1f9f361_o.jpg

 

Everything as given a coat of aqua gloss and then I used Tamiya panel liner dark brown to enhance  the details.

46915731201_6a9b9e1f05_o.jpg

46915731121_a3a27950ff_o.jpg

46915730971_c371cb3cc2_o.jpg

 

After some research the big pipe appears to have been a light(ish) colour, in some photos blue(ish) and others grey, Hasegawa would have you paint them silver however I’ve decided to go with the grey colour Hobby Color H53.

46915730821_b2e8dc0540_o.jpg

funnily enough the grey colour looks almost exactly the same as the original plastic.

 

I’ve also added a couple of canisters that I made from sprue that I rounded over the ends and then added some flattened lead straps.

46915730601_2f598138f4_o.jpg

 

The landing gear was painted with vallejo acrylic metal color 77.701 aluminium and the wheel wells were assembled.

46865555232_d98fae7d9f_o.jpg

46865554762_b440522d1b_o.jpg

46192884614_ee0ab92fea_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be assembling the engine nacelles and twin booms.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

46192884364_e2dfb2dabd_o.jpg

 

The landing gear/wheel wells need to be fixed in place before the two halves of the nacelle/booms can be joined.

46926656921_f8d81af8bb_o.jpg

 

I started by fixing the engine nacelles.

46926656821_f8c2b644a7_o.jpg

 

…and then joined the booms.

46926656731_67d1af3ceb_o.jpg

 

Additional bits and pieces were then added to the booms.

33051988748_98ee37def1_o.jpg

39962793073_360329da8e_o.jpg

 

When Adding the air scoops(?) I realised that I’d managed to fix the wheel wells to the wrong booms, which means that the wheels will be facing inwards rather than outwards!

As everything is firmly fixed in place I can’t simply swap them so I’m going to have to live with my cock-up!

 

I’m certain that she will be a ‘tail sitter’ so I’ve added some fishing weights as a counter balance.

39962793013_b0c1aae7d4_o.jpg

I’ve also added some weight to the front of the cockpit.

39962792923_f4108ff913_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be adding these to the wings and fuselage.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, shortCummins said:

As everything is firmly fixed in place I can’t simply swap them so I’m going to have to live with my cock-up!

At the very least should make for an interesting conversation starter. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

39962792813_00fdef7ec8_o.jpg

 

I started by cleaning up the nacelle/boom joins.

46214362084_15a710b742_o.jpg

46025032945_7c90b90d35_o.jpg

 

These were then attached to the upper wings.

46025032925_7d047674ac_o.jpg

 

I think because I glued the wheel wells to the side of the boom(s) that I’ve sightly distorted each boom which becomes noticeable where the nacelle/boom meets the wing towards the back of the wing.

46025032795_b4a54498c7_o.jpg

46025032765_0d3363cff5_o.jpg

I’ll clean these joins before I attach the bottom of the fuselage and the outer wings.

 

The underside of the fuselage and front wings were added along with the rear wing.

46224323724_65e37f7b33_o.jpg

46224323904_6b9f21aa0f_o.jpg

The rear wing was held in place with a couple of elastic bands while the glue set.

 

Overall the fit is quite good however, the wing roots have a small gap and step that I’ll fix with some perfect putty.

46224323514_d96e20b8b5_o.jpg

46224323384_d1c421ae7c_o.jpg

 

a ‘building’ tip I would suggest, if you fancy this kit, apart from paying attention to the wheel wells, is that I would leave the boom air scoop(s) off until the wings are fixed in place to help with blending in the wing to the nacelle/booms.

46224323264_79dd7eb6e2_o.jpg

 

 

There are a few little bits and pieces that need adding and then I’ll give everything a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer to see what seams need addressing and which panel line need re-scribing.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, shortCummins said:

39962792813_00fdef7ec8_o.jpg

 

I started by cleaning up the nacelle/boom joins.

 

These were then attached to the upper wings.

 

I think because I glued the wheel wells to the side of the boom(s) that I’ve sightly distorted each boom which becomes noticeable where the nacelle/boom meets the wing towards the back of the wing.

 

I’ll clean these joins before I attach the bottom of the fuselage and the outer wings.

 

The underside of the fuselage and front wings were added along with the rear wing.

 

The rear wing was held in place with a couple of elastic bands while the glue set.

 

Overall the fit is quite good however, the wing roots have a small gap and step that I’ll fix with some perfect putty.

 

a ‘building’ tip I would suggest, if you fancy this kit, apart from paying attention to the wheel wells, is that I would leave the boom air scoop(s) off until the wings are fixed in place to help with blending in the wing to the nacelle/booms.

 

There are a few little bits and pieces that need adding and then I’ll give everything a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer to see what seams need addressing and which panel line need re-scribing.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

When i built my Hase. P-38 4 years ago. I had all of the exact same issues as you’ve listed. Im thinking its a design flaw of the kit, not builder caused.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

46224323034_c3bfe3e3a4_o.jpg

 

After nailing various bits’n’pieces to the airframe, nose, exhaust surrounds and rear wings, I added the canopy after the Montex masks were applied.

39995228823_82a347e5d4_o.jpg

46907599312_4899bf3c89_o.jpg

 

Perfect Putty was added to the wing/nacelle joins.

46907600022_325c09902b_o.jpg

46907599692_686bc208f1_o.jpg

 

The canopy was given a coat of grey/green.

46980175951_43189a7792_o.jpg

46980175781_a9b59bdee5_o.jpg

 

The whole airframe was then given a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

46269829614_48cc7a81df_o.jpg

46942059662_50c543d43d_o.jpg

 

Seams were attended to with a drop or two of sprue-goo.

46090197755_1fb72edb51_o.jpg

46090197585_f424c32469_o.jpg

46090197375_779a7abb0d_o.jpg

sanded…

47050048922_18d3a8baae_o.jpg

47050048842_c1172fac35_o.jpg

47050048652_8b39e7f4dd_o.jpg

…and then resprayed with UMP/Stynylrez

47050048542_a8fd8e83c1_o.jpg

47050048402_27cfd868fb_o.jpg

47050048232_007821614c_o.jpg

 

Panel lines were then re-scribed.

32214469627_2e47ed51ef_o.jpg

32214469407_148c685110_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be painting the grey underside and green top colours.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

32214469267_d3cc258383_o.jpg

 

I started by making a ‘marble layer’ for the grey underside colour, I used Hobby Color H53 neutral gray thinned 50/50 with Mr Color levelling thinner.

46252864505_eb99bae244_o.jpg

46443565584_c00f2ca1c6_o.jpg

46443565464_3089ef6fe2_o.jpg

46443565314_40b10b5c4f_o.jpg

46443565084_d69d1cabf4_o.jpg

46443564874_9ec8b238ff_o.jpg

 

Once the marble layer had dried it was blended with a 70/40 mix of H53 and levelling thinner.

46252863545_1a4346e6e6_o.jpg

46443564604_4be44d4522_o.jpg

46252863375_edc3362cd8_o.jpg

46252863225_079503ccf5_o.jpg

46252863025_c0569e3331_o.jpg

46252862895_2ce24565ee_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be painting the green top colour.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

46443563784_cc65b38cca_o.jpg

 

I started by masking the grey underside with Tamiya tape and white-tac

32265988277_245c874cdf_o.jpg

 

Then I sprayed a ‘marble layer’ for the green topside camo’ colour using a 50/50 mix of Mr Color levelling thinner and Mr Color H52 olive drab(1).

32265988197_e93d3e1c6f_o.jpg

32265988047_8b62b78ffd_o.jpg

32265987987_1c0f4361a1_o.jpg

32265987837_1fde6cc3ef_o.jpg

 

Once the marble layer had dried a thinner mix 70/30 levelling thinner/H52 was used to unify the upper airframe.

40243448703_7bf60355b7_o.jpg

32265987647_f3104e1c9e_o.jpg

40243448583_60fa261729_o.jpg

40243448493_029febdc72_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be painting the yellow engine cowls and highlighting or discolouring some of the panels to break-up the big slabs of green and grey.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only just caught up with this, looking really nice. I note with some disappointment that I don't have a P-38 in my stash - note to self: make it so! :)

 

I shall now continue to watch with interest, now that you've nearly finished it!:popcorn:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

32265987247_3ab03921a8_o.jpg

 

The propellor spinners and front part of the engine cowlings should be painted yellow so to prepare I first masked the nacelles, I also protected the nose from any over-spray with Tamiya tape and then used Alkan white as a base colour.

32276342347_b2068868eb_o.jpg

32276342127_9d7e27844b_o.jpg

The spinners, I wanted a mottled effect to imitate wear so they were given a light coat of the white paint.

32276341997_d8baa8db87_o.jpg

 

The instructions call for Hobby Color H329 yellow FS13538

32276341737_56cbf99f04_o.jpg

32276341437_c4cbcc8dd8_o.jpg

32276341347_5d23687b7c_o.jpg

 

I also decided to paint one of the panels a different colour, depicting a repair or paint job. The panel was masked and sprayed with Tamiya XF-49 khaki.

32276341237_8c6021f6b8_o.jpg

32276341047_26ddfda37c_o.jpg

 

I was toying with the idea of spraying other panels different shades or (and?) fading some of the top camo’, I’ll sleep on the idea before making a final decision.

 

Exhausts were given a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

33332866048_287aba58eb_o.jpg

 

“rust” was created by using vallejo 70.814 burnt red.

32266115817_9705f18904_o.jpg

 

Then they were dry-brushed using vallejo metal color 77.723 exhaust manifold.

33332865898_76c1854a91_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be painting the insignia and unit markings.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! That's an excellent study in preshading with a marble coat!

I'd say that some light postshading with lighter tones in random places would add even more interest to the finish. By the way, are the  control surfaces metal or fabric clad?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Christer A said:

Wow! That's an excellent study in preshading with a marble coat!

I'd say that some light postshading with lighter tones in random places would add even more interest to the finish. By the way, are the  control surfaces metal or fabric clad?

thanks for the encouragement Christer.

 

I've decided to add some lighter post shading, I've a black and white photo of the original aircraft which appears to show differences between the front and rear of the wings so I'll try and emulate that.

As for the control surfaces, I'm reasonably sure that they were metal, the polished metal versions don't show a great difference between the wing and controls as would be the case with fabric? Also there is no 'ribbing' that you get on a Spitfire or me109.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

32276340617_35f405faa4_o.jpg

 

So having looked at this photo of the actual aircraft…

32276340877_b6e5a8af71_o.jpg

…I decided that I wanted to add some variation to the paint on the wings as there looks to be clear fading on the rear of the wing.

To replicate this I masked the areas that I want to keep ‘darker’

46312633885_f130ee9093_o.jpg

Then sprayed a heavily diluted 80% Mr Color levelling thinner to 20% Tamiya XF-49 khaki.

46312633835_3cb869c1e8_o.jpg

46312633795_11931aa058_o.jpg

The effect is quite subtile, it shows more ‘in real life’ than in these photos and I’m quite pleased with the result.

 

Rather than using the kit decals, I still think of them as “stickers”, for the main insignia and unit markings I opted to use the Montex mask set for this kit, MM48051.

I found it easier to apply the rudder ident’s separately as the mask(s) are larger than the rudder and its easier to use one side, paint the marking, remove that mask and then apply and paint the other side.

The aircraft unit markings are white so I sprayed both these markings and the white base of the stars and bars with Alkan white.

46505035514_34ab92220c_o.jpg

 

To try and combat any seepage of white under the masks I first sprayed either olive drab or the mid grey colours, the idea being that if they ‘seeped’ then they would ‘block’ any seepage paths and therefor reduce most, if not all of the white, it worked quite well although I’ll still need to do a little touch-up here and there.

46505657554_0335fce0e4_o.jpg

47229120911_c719535f36_o.jpg

 

The blue of the stars and bars is a mix of Tamiya XF-8 blue (95%) and XF-1 black (5%)

40271764553_fa2476e5a4_o.jpg

40271764263_dc8eb2fe0a_o.jpg

 

 

Next I’ll be ‘fixing’ the seepage and maybe adding a bit more variation to some of the panels.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The shading with Khaki turned out great! Very nice tonal variation and the marble effect is still visible. Nice!

I'm sure you'll have the seepage fixed in no time at all. 😇

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...