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Hi all,

 

Between computers at the moment as my out of warranty Surface went back to MS for replacement owing to a hardware fault they *finally* acknowledged. So I'm a bit behind on the forums. I haven't done much modelling over Christmas but I did put some stuff together and finally got some paint on some of it. I know I should really be finishing unfinished things, but these are pretty cool models and have been calling to me for a while.

 

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They're two varieties of Imperial Knight from GW's new Adeptus Titanicus line. I really tried to avoid this because it doesn't have tiny tanks, just stompy robots. But I failed obviously, mainly because I read a novel about Titans by Dan Abnett which was really rather good. I'm quite fussy about my sci-fi so I was surprised how much I liked it, and it kind of sealed the deal on a purchase.

 

The smaller Questoris knights come three to a box on a single sprue, and are pretty easy to build thanks to a sensible parts breakdown. They capture many of the details from their 40K scale brethren but are just 40mm high.

 

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The larger pair are two to a box, also on a single sprue, and are maybe an easier build with fewer fiddly parts. They also have nice non-poseable legs which put the feet in stalking positions which rather suit their lanky look.

 

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I primed them black and airbrushed the metallics freehand with Alclad. I think I used Jet exhaust and exhaust manifold for the dark areas, and light aluminium for the trim. I realised when I started painting details that I missed quite a lot of trim as it was hard to read the surface of the model in black primer. Copper bits are Exhaust Manifold with Copper over it, and the reactors are Brass and Pale Burnt Metal.

 

After that I started filling in all the armour panels with thinned Loren Forest and Averland Sunset (oh, and Eshin Grey for the black bits). The green and grey covered in 2-3 coats, but the yellow needed 4-5 despite being a "base" paint because I thinned it quite a bit. The idea was to use the surface tension to find the edges rather than having to line them all individually which mostly worked OK. I was able to remove any blobs on the trim using a wet cocktail stick because the Alclad is quite tough.


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With most of the armour and weapon areas painted I washed the green with Athonian Camoshade, the yellow with Casadora Yellow, and the black with Nuln Oil. The yellow and black look nice and I like the colour of the green but I had some problems with the matting agent clotting and leaving little lumps in/on the surface which I've had to pick off and clean up. Luckily it only happened on one model, I think I probably picked some wash from the rim of the pot and got some dry bits with it? It's hard to see when you're doing it as they tend to have bubbles.

 

I then spent a long time lining all the carapace panels and grilles with Agrax Earthshade and a fine brush.

 

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Which is quite impactful in real life, but not in this lighting. I might seal it and add some enamels, not sure yet. I've also been round the edges of some of the armour panels with this wash as well which looks quite good but is time consuming and invites more cleaning up.

 

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I'm currently trying to make the backs more interesting with some dry-brushing and detail painting, we'll see how that looks tomorrow.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Pure quality Will,Lovely.

 

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Thanks guys, just got my computer back from Microsoft and I'm in the process of restoring and sorting out my Lightroom catalogue. Which hopefully means I'll be a bit more active again...

 

While all the photos were copying from the backup drive I edged all the panels, tidied up the tide marks a bit, and painted more details.

 

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I also dry-brushed the metal areas with a couple of different silvers (Ironbreaker and Mithril) so they're ready for a wash. But I need to go and clean everything very carefully as it's suffered from being in the living room and there are bits of fluff and dried pigment all over :(

 

I'm thinking that an oil wash is the way to go, so I ought to seal the panel areas with Klear, and obviously apply any decals at the same time. So that's the next step. Won't be this weekend as my daughter and I are off to an orienteering training camp for three days. Bit nervous as neither of my knees are that great at the moment and I have water on the left one (yes, like in Operation!) although it is improving... Maybe I can do the theory and sit out the practice?

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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38 minutes ago, Will Vale said:

 I'm in the process of restoring and sorting out my Lightroom catalogue.

 

Save yourself all the Lightroom catalogue grief and use Bridge/Adobe Camera Raw/Photoshop instead. It's the best photo processing thing that I ever did.

 

https://www.damiensymonds.net/bridge-30-day-challenge

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29 minutes ago, Rob G said:

Save yourself all the Lightroom catalogue grief and use Bridge/Adobe Camera Raw/Photoshop instead. It's the best photo processing thing that I ever did.

 

https://www.damiensymonds.net/bridge-30-day-challenge

Interesting, I tended to ignore Bridge. Is ACR fast? (Because PS definitely isn't, but then neither is LR...)

The bit that's causing me grief at the moment isn't the catalogue, which I backed up and restored just fine, it's the integration with LR mobile. I use that on my phone a lot and it's really made me take, process and present more photos so I rate it a good thing. But because the local copies on desktop are stored in a wacky secret folder it's a bit of a mess and doesn't integrate well with a Classic catalogue. Especially when that's been migrated across machines.

 

I think I've just about got it sorted now, might've lost an image or an edit here or there, not sure.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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ACR is quicker than you or I, and if Ps is slow for you, you need a better computer (unless you're shooting with a Nikon D800/810/850 or whatever high megapickle thing Cannot and Snoy have; big files take a LOT of processing power and slow is the norm for most people there). Lightroom is slow for everyone, because it's crap. (I used to swear by it, until I got tired of swearing AT it, and made the change.)

 

I do 99% of my post work in ACR and only drop into Ps when I really make a mess of an image in camera, or if I need to wrangle pixels. The ACR tools are the same as Lr, but the histogram's accurate, it's faster and there's no dumb catalogue (Windows has a perfectly acceptable catalogue built in!)

 

As Damien says, give it a try for 30 days. If it works for you, make the change. If not, go back to Lr. No real loss except a bit of time. Of course there's no phone version of ACR, so you'll be back to Lr Mobile if you need that functionality. Or you can use an alternative- I was using PhotoMate R2, which has been replaced by R3, but I don't do any serious processing on mobile devices any more as the screens can't be calibrated. YMMV.

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So I had another gap there as we were off at an orienteering training camp (lots of getting lost in trackless forest) and then there's been a mini-heatwave. But I managed to find the decal sheet for the bigger knights and have now got some markings on all of them:

 

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The GW decals are excellent - thin and hard to mess up. I'd painted the armour panels with Klear as a base and also as a sealant for the enamel weathering to come. I used a mix of the kit decals and some from the 40K-scale Knight.

 

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The Adeptus Titanicus decal sheets don't include anything for House Cadmus as the game is set in the Horus Heresy and Cadmus is a "modern" knight house, but I used a mix of generic decals like the Imperial eagles, plus some useful swords from the House Vyronii markings. I trimmed the edges off these and painted in the House Cadmus beast heads by hand.

 

I also lettered the scrolls on the small knights with a fine Copic pen which worked really well, they aren't visible in the pics though as the angle is too low :(

 

Anyway, I'm now in the process of applying some enamel weathering after sealing in the decals with Klear. The armour plates are all a bit glossy so I'm going to need to do some spot varnishing to hide the decal film, but it's looking OK so far.

 

Cheers,

 

Will 

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Aah, getting somewhere now! I added some Mig Dark Wash and a bit of brown around the metal areas, and here we are:

 

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More clean-up required still, but they suddenly look a lot more solid and interesting to me at least :) I also took a better picture of the carapaces to show all the quartering etc.

 

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The backs are still a bit plain:

 

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Maybe a highlight on the hoses will help with that?

 

Will 

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Nice that brown has really set it off! 

And I actually like the back as it is, has a cool used engine look that contrasts the colourful front view

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Thanks! I don't think it needs much at the back, but a touch of brighter metal or something to balance out the two shiny bits among the dark?

 

I did a bit more today, adding some mini-style highlights, cleaning up the heads and reinstating some of the colour in the dark areas. I also added glowing eyes, which need neatening up a bit more still.

 

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After that I airbrushed all the panels and plates with a couple of coats of Tamiya lacquer flat clear, which isn't really flat and has a nice level of "scale" sheen. To properly hide the decal edges I followed that with a very careful coat of two of Dullcote in the centres of the panels only, so it wouldn't spoil the metal bits.

 

I need to do some bases tonight I think, it's time to get them put together and carry on with the two bigger knights, who I think are going to have to be Sir Boris and Sir Morris after these two heroes:

 

 

Cheers,

 

Will

 

 

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And a bit more - lots of separate small jobs since last time.

 

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I added gloss AK oils (fuel/oil stains) to the hydraulics, in fact I think I might've overdone that as there's not much pure silver visible at all. Also GW Agrax Gloss to joints and the chainsword teeth. I think maybe that's an easier option as the enamel gloss tends to be sticky? The exhausts were tidied up with washes and a little silver metallic paint to remove overspray, and then they and surrounding carapace areas had a mist of thinned Tamiya flat black to deposit some soot. I used this on the flamer as well, and applied a bit of Clear Blue and Clear Violet to suggest heat bloom. It's not that obvious as the copper was a bit too dark/too colourful for it to show, but I think it's *just* visible in the tarnished area. I also needed to drybrush a little copper back onto the areas to pick out the edges under the black.

 

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I've also shaded and highlighted the gold reactor and copper tanks on the back of each model, painted in details like the cooling fins on the chainswords, burnished graphite powder onto the gun barrels and the like. Oh, and I added some rust streaks where necessary to hide blotchy areas and tide marks, and filled in the cockpit hatch portholes with Clear Red.

 

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Still got stuff to do - I've started the bases, and I haven't painted any of the carapace hand rails, which will no doubt be a bit fiddly...

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Here are the bases so far:

 

46126512785_003d19c6df_b.jpg

 

The grit is one of the GW texture paints, which are actually not bad - they looked like they'd shrink too much as they appear wetter than e.g. the Tamiya pastes, but it was manageable.

I used scraps of styrene sheet for the concrete pads, and the barriers are offcuts of GW sprue with its useful cross-section.

 

I think they need a dusting of pigments to unify things a bit, and probably some scrubby greenery would help too.

 

Cheers,

 

Will 

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Now in RFI!
 

 

Bonus pic:

 

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Cheers,

 

Will

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Thanks Andy, weirdly painting concrete is my particular joy :) Just like real life it's so varied and random.

 

More for my notes than anything, before I forget - the recipe for these started with a couple of thin coats of Rakarth Flesh (pink-grey) over grey primer.

 

Then I added sharp marks in sponged or stippled (Castellan?) green and applied several thin washes of paint (can't remember the colours, but I'll wager I used Agrax Earthshade and Screaming Skull) and blotting them off again with a sponge or tissue.  The markings were painted very sketchily with thinned Screaming Skull and then I picked at the edges with a wet cocktail stick before the paint cured.

 

I gave it all a very thin wash of the earth colour (Steel Legion Drab) and a drybrush with Celestra Grey (light opaque blue-grey) and white to bring it together, and then sanded the surface lightly with 1000 grit paper. There's a bit of MIG rubble dust in there as well but the matt varnish meant it ended up very subtle. Bad for scale effect but good for robustness and "gameyness".

 

I want to try one with hazard stripes at some point, I think a touch more colour would be nice.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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