cmatthewbacon Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 This has gone straight to the top of the build pile, since I have a local one to copy, and boy, it looks cool... So, first problem: I've seen various people mention the weird "pinch" at the front of the doors that Aoshima got wrong, but I haven't seen the vertical wall at the top of the rear wheel arches discussed as much. It's not there on the real thing: This is the actual car I'll be making. There are more pix where this came from... A fair bit of Milliput and several rounds of sanding later, this is where we are. Time to build up the rest of the body and take off the "normal" moulding seams... best, M. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 Awesome. I will be following along for the ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamblor916 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Nice! If that's verde ermes then that's the colour I've chosen for mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I'd like to see your skills on the Pocher 1/8 version Matthew. Any chance for that? I don't know why but no one seems to build the Pocher Lambos anymore... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Any more updates?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Looking at your “vertical wall” at the quarter panels it may actually be there on the performante. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 7, 2019 Author Share Posted February 7, 2019 Just had to build a uGears Morgan for my Mum’s birthday first. Still working on the body. @Homerlovesbeer look at the image of the green car I’m building above. There is a sharp change of surface, but no triangular wall/wedge above the bulge below. The orange car on your picture is showing very nicely why it’s hard to get the shape right, because the effect of the sun on the metallic paint is confusing. The white one is less so... I’ve seen the real one, so I know that the green pic is how it looks IRL... best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 I'll go to Lamborghini this week and take pics. They have 2 performante in the showroom at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 Well, finally got to make some more progress... this is what I'm aiming for: And this is where I've got to.... Well, I'm happy... best, M. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGA Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 Looks spot on. With the right colour the better contours are going to pop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 You have my attention ! Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Thanks, chaps.... Got the body painted now using real 1:1 Sikkens aqua auto paint (with thanks to Paul, who made it up for me), with Zero 2K Diamond clear over the top. Verde Hydra (LB-0062 paint code) is not a standard Huracan or Performante colour, but it's what's on the one I'm copying... \ This is as it comes, with no polishing of any sort. There are a couple of small specks to tidy up, but that's all... The Performante has various parts made of "forged carbon", which has a distinctive look... no weave here. As luck would have it, when I was in town yesterday, someone had parked up in a very nice Huracan Performante Spider, so I took some reference photos: Now, I could get some decals, at some cost in time and money. But I thought I'd try painting it. A few small bits of packing sponge, and a couple of shades of Citadel grey overcoated with Tamiya Smoke, and here we are... 5 minutes, no money, and I think it looks OK. It's a darn sight easier to apply to the various places inside and outside where the forged carbon is used than a decals would be, as well... Got started on the engine now... best, M. PS: while I remember, I've heard people say the side windows don't fit into the apertures. On this body, the three sprue gates on the "spider" inside the windows along the bottom edge looked like they were on the top of the mounting ledge, but looking closer I could see that they also filled the L section a bit. If you just cut them horizontally at the top and sand them smooth, you'll leave three little nubbins 0.5mm or so square inside the rebate. I had to cut them with a very sharp #11 blade vertically and horizontally to slice them out... 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 That is a great paint finish, even if it had been polished. To have achieved that straight out of the airbrush is just amazing. This one is looking very good indeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorfinn Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 3 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said: 5 minutes, no money, and I think it looks OK. It's a darn sight easier to apply to the various places inside and outside where the forged carbon is used than a decals would be, as well... Excellent result compared to the original! 👍 (Never seen 'forged carbon' before. It looks rather like a marbleized high-end bathroom counter-top....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamblor916 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 That carbon finish came out great! I did the same for my sesto elemento build. A lot easier than decals for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Well you nailed that carbon finish, matey ! Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Thanks, chaps... Deviating a bit from the instructions, I've built the engine now. It's hard to find a decent picture of the engine out of a car, but with the help of some eBay listings for Huracan engines, I've done some gizmology with wires to make it look a bit busier... The exhausts are are wrapped in flexible metal heat insulation, and given these are buried deep inside, scoring the surface is easier than trying to attach embossed foil... That little complicated bit on the left is all you can see of the bottom through the undertray... Now, back to the way it's _supposed_ to be built. best, M. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 Cockpit is coming together now: Unforgiving close-up, that last one, but you can see how the "forged carbon" sponge effect works. The dash top is "alcantara" effect, as demonstrated by Dann Tier at Model Cars Forum, using chalk pastels. I used the same method to weather camouflage on well-used Spitfires a while back... it's very subtle and highly controllable, and easy to redo if you mess up... More sponging effect using various shades of flat metallic silver for the "ceramic" brake discs. best, M. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malpaso Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Models looking great. I like your efforts to improve simply rather than just piling on aftermarket. We were at the V&A on Sunday and my daughter dragged me over to look in the window of the Lambo shop by S Ken station. There was a bottle green Performante on show. Wow. In my day it was the Countach everyone worshipped though this was miles nicer... I do think she needs to be a bit more realistic about her first car though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 Thanks! She'd probably fit in a Countach, unlike most normal sized adults... 😜 Fantastic purple one in this month's Octane, belonging to Simon Kidston. I can see some Viola Pasifae in my future... The cockpit is finished: Which means the chassis is now complete: best, M. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 That green shell is amazing, bound to look great when put together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Thanks, Jeroen... I kinda think it does... Probably the last progress update before it ends up in RFI... Bodyshell is on, with no trauma at all. Very easy, precise fit with almost no flexing needed. They'd have you add the back end before doing this, but I thought that might be asking for trouble... best, M. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 I'd clearly had a a bit of a "counting my chickens..." problem. So today has been a few steps back to better move forward... The location of the wing pylons into the body is, to put it mildly, a real pain. There are two small (tiny) diamondish-shaped tabs at the bottom of the pylon near the front, and two square indentations on the rear body panel front edge. Needless to say, with primer and colour and glosscoat painted, the indentations on the body are less well defined. The parts probably fit together perfectly with liquid cement straight off the sprue, but with paint and two colours to deal with, it's a lot less easy. Fortunately, I realised that I'd only tacked the panel in place with Copydex for painting, so I could get it off easily to try and get a decent, firm, joint. So, out with the microdrills and some 0.5mm brass rod. It took several rounds with the microchisel to open up the sockets enough to get the wing pylons in and on at the right angle, and drilling the holes for the pins was also no fun... Of course, the rear parts of the pylon bases also have to sit flush against the rear decking, so there was a fair bit of trial fitting. Eventually, it's on, and firmly fixed: now i just need to get the whole assembly back onto the car. But first... This bit is a pain to assemble, with quite flexible parts and not so well defined mounting points, and some very difficult bits to get a grip on. I gave up on the light boxes as a bad job, and the lights themselves are not very well engineered (oh for a Tamiya version). The two body colour panels attach in three places, and need to be put in diagonally and then rotated into place so the upper corner approaches the frame from the outside, moving inwards, and the two lower edges come mate from the inside, moving backwards... They will also need to attach to the rear bodyshell... the only joining surface being about 3mm long, and on a seam... Those two towers on the black piece in the middle fit into the vertical plate at the rear of the main bodyshell. They are the only solid mounting point of the whole back end to the car. This is why they want you to put the back on before fitting the body to the chassis, so that you can reach that joint from both sides, make sure it's in place, and clamp as needed. They don't tell you that, though... As you can see (circled), I've also added a couple of hefty tabs to help locate the green elements to the body a little more solidly. It requires a bit of carving inside, and they need to be high enough up inside the shell to clear the wheel arch lines at the back. And finally, we get to here: I'm going to leave this the full 24 hours to set... update tomorrow PM. best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 After yesterdays mis-step, I think I really can call this built this time. A bit of time to set solid, clean up the greasy fingermarks, and the decals, and she'll be ready for her close-up... As you can tell from the "Band-Aids," my worries that bits of the bodywork would break loose as I flexed it to fit over the chassis were well founded. If I was doing another one -- or if you're tempted after reading this -- it might be a good idea to leave off the diffuser under tray from the back end assembly until right at the end. With the under tray in place, both ends of the the chassis have to be pushed into the bodywork, flexing it front and back. Without the diffuser, I think you could get the front end locking tabs in place, and then swing the chassis up into the bodyshell, with easy access to the previously mentioned flexible vertical end plate into which the rear tabs slot, to make sure they are properly seated in their slots. The diffuser should then be easy to glue to its mounting lugs from below... Now, then... numberplates 😜 best, M. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamblor916 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Thanks for the tips. I want to start mine soonish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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