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1/35 Dragon Panzer IV L/70 (V)


Retired Bob

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On 09/01/2019 at 04:26, SoftScience said:

How do hataka paints measure up to Vallejo? Primarily, how robust are they?

I like vellejo colors and how easily they brush on, but they're very prone to scratches. Even with their proprietary primer (which lifts in leathery sheets).

Hi 

Sorry for the delay in answering, To be honest I use Vallejo Air most of the time as it is ready to in the airbrush, Hataka paints come in either ready for the airbrush or for paintbrush use, as marked on the box, I have only used the airbrush type and it sprays well and covers nicely. All these acrylic paints Vallejo, AK, and Hataka are much the same, as for primer lifting off, have you made sure the plastic has been degreased properly prior to painting or surface keyed with a fine abrasive.  Hoe this is of some help.

Regards.

Bob.

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Camouflage is started! It looks darker on the models than the photo.  I will let the paint harden overnight and then start on the disc camouflage for the one on the right and ambush camouflage for the left one.

IMG_0886

 

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11 minutes ago, PlaStix said:

They look great in their Camo - very nicely done. :clap2:

 Kind regards,

Stix

Thought I would be clever and use maskol to keep the sandgelb clean from overspray, big mistake, left raggedy edge, so I spent another day tidying it all up freehand. Good job I don't have to go to work tomorrow. :whistle:

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5 minutes ago, Retired Bob said:

Thought I would be clever and use maskol to keep the sandgelb clean from overspray, big mistake, left raggedy edge, so I spent another day tidying it all up freehand. Good job I don't have to go to work tomorrow.

Oh well - at least it looks good now!

Kind regards,

Stix

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On 21/01/2019 at 18:12, PlaStix said:

Hi Bob. Just checking if there's been any progress with your project?

 Kind regards, 

Stix 

Hi Stix

Jagdpanzers put on hold last week while I prepared some models to display at the Bolton show.  The disc camouflage is taking longer to apply than I thought, instructions say to use burnishing tool to apply the dry decals, but using one, the decals do not release from the carrier film, so I have gone back to the old technique, a HB pencil but it's slow progress.  I am still cursing using maskol on the panzer as I thought I had got it all off before I sprayed the camouflage.  Unfortunately I keep finding small traces hiding around bolt heads and other raised detail, so tomorrow I am going to fire up the airbrush and do some touch up painting so I can get back on track. :whistle:

Regards,

Bob

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Camouflage is complete, it's taken a lot longer than I expected but here's some pix.  looking a bit shiny as they are glossed ready for decals and an oil paint wash.

IMG_0894IMG_0897IMG_0895IMG_0896

Any suggestions for modulating the tri colour camouflage without making the sandgelb too dark?

 

Bob

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35 minutes ago, Retired Bob said:

 

Any suggestions for modulating the tri colour camouflage without making the sandgelb too dark?

 

Bob

What do you mean by modulate? That word gets used a lot around weathering often with different meanings...

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39 minutes ago, Plasto said:

What do you mean by modulate? That word gets used a lot around weathering often with different meanings...

 Hi Plasto,

This is the problem, having been out of the hobby for nearly 20 years the word modulate is bandied about when weathering AFV's.  What I am after is the process to tone down the new look without  making it look as though its been in the scrap yard for a couple of years.  At this period of the war vehicles did not tend to last long,   In books like Panzer wrecks, pictures show a lot of almost new vehicles with hardly any weathering, it's just a shame they are in B & W.  I intend to run a thinned burnt sienna oil wash into all recessed areas, then using various oil colours  tone down the brightness, then matt varnish, followed by dry brushing to enhance the details with mud on the tracks and running gear.

 

Bob

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Yep... The Lang began to enter service in September 1944 the war with Germany was over in April 1945 so the oldest Lang in service when the war ended was 7-8 months old.... Still historical context shouldn’t get in the way of model weathering...

 

Also most of the service is in the Autumn -Spring seasons in Northern Europe.

 

I’d start with a basic filter coat of very thinned enamel or oil in a sympathetic filter colour. I use a Tamiya enamels for this and for grubby Dunkelgelb vehicles I use Field grey... Very thinned and applied with a large brush strokes in the direction of rain. Once that dry I’d add a very highly thinned coat of buff via airbrush add several thin coats allowing the previous coat to dry and concentrating on the lower hull parts for a slightly thicker layer. This represents a dust coat.

 

once dry you can add streaks with enamel thinners which represents rain marks...

 

That should get you started..

 

HTH

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Your Jagdpanzers look superb. Both camo schemes are challenging to paint and you have executed them beautifully! 

 

It is a fair consideration that these vehicles would have been 'young', not given years in action to weather. However, my car can acquire a visible coating of dust so that you can draw a smiley face with your finger in a few weeks, so Plasto's weathering plan sounds appropriate. I tend to like chipped paint on 'high-wear' areas too. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have an update on the first of my Jagdpanzers  with the tracks on and the first stage of weathering started.

IMG_0905IMG_0914IMG_0906IMG_0907

The mud build up on the suspension units is polyfilla and oil paints, so I have had to let it dry for a week before attaching the track, the left side went on with no drama, the right side fought me all the way, even though I made identical sub assemblies for each side. 

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  • 1 month later...

Just about finished the Jagdpanzers ready for the final of the GB.  These are the first kits that I have actually finished in almost 30 years! my eldest son has just turned 30, coincidence I don't think so.  The long barrelled L/70 is OOB, except for a jerry can of water and a stretched sprue aerial.  The other Lang with zimmeritte, I mentioned at the beginning that I wanted to convert it to a short barrelled L/48, and  just after I finished all the painting I found the Armour Scale conversion in my AM stash, so I just had to chop of the long barrel and gun support to backdate it. I took photo's with and without the muzzle brake as it looked good with it fitted, even though they were removed in the field because of the dust cloud they threw up.  The time consuming bit was trying to match the zimmeritte on the new mantle, the Dragon molded finish is much too subtle, I really had a job trying to emphasize it with washes and dry brushing.  These machines had very few markings so I used some old dry decals for the tank number and then experimented with some oil paints.

IMG_0775IMG_0800

What to do next. :hmmm:

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Thirty years eh? Well done to start with on finishing Bob! And then WOW! - stunning model building! :worthy:

Very well done.

Kind regards,

Stix

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24 minutes ago, PlaStix said:

Thirty years eh? Well done to start with on finishing Bob! And then WOW! - stunning model building! :worthy:

 Very well done.

Kind regards,

Stix

Thanks for the kind words, I must pick up the pace and build quicker, to try and reduce the ever growing stash. I watched a lot of online videos on painting and weathering, did not agree with some of them and then there were mistakes, like when I got into track building and did all four top return lengths in one go, unfortunately I did them all for three return rollers DOH! only one had three rollers. I should have finished these earlier, but I have commitment issues.  I kept being lured away to research my next project, I wanted something with rockets,    A Typhoon, a Mustang or P-47.  Nah, a Sherman Tulip. Should be interesting. :unsure:

 

Bob

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