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Italeri 1/72 F4U-4B


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So, Italeri F4U-4B Corsair. The model is well known with all its advantages and shortcomings, however, i'll briefly list them.
Pros:
- availability and low price;
- the only model that allows you to build"honest" cannon-armed F4U-4B;
- acceptable accuracy;
- Decal for three "Korean" options.
Cons:
- detailing to date poor;
- the wing of the model is unified with other Italeri Corsairs and depicts the all-metal wing of the F4U-5 and other late versions;
- thick cockpit glazing;
- panel lines in some places inaccurate;
- too shallow chassis niches;
- The decal has inaccuracies.
When building this model, the goal was not to build an absolute copy, true to the last rivet, so the comparison with the drawings was more of an optional character, the main emphasis was placed on improving the appearance. In addition, when building the model with rare exceptions, the aftermarket was not used.

 

Fuselage.
The fuselage contours generally correspond well with the drawing, so no large-scale modifications were made. Absent panel lines on vertical tail were added, the incorrect ones of the forward and, to a lesser extent, the tail section were corrected. After that rivets were added.IMG_8299.jpg

 

Horizontal stabilizers
The missing panel lines and rivets were added.

 

Wing
This part required the most labor. The following works were made:
- incorrect panel lines were corrected and missing ones were added;
- rivet lines were added;
- the sagging of the fabric coverof the wing panels was imitated;
- redesigned (deepened) wheel wells;
- corrected the position of holes for ejection of spent cartridges.

 

IMG_8301.jpg

 

 

Edited by Egi vandor
some correction
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You might want to go easy on the riveting on the fuselage, as the Corsair had large sections of skinning that were spot welded together- so very few visible  panel lines, with the skinning being flush riveted to the  stringers and formers. When the primer/surfacer was applied before painting, the flush rivets would be filled and  hidden; I have attached a link to a Corsair restoration to give you an idea of what the fuselage would look like- in the section that has been primered, you can't see any evidence of the flush rivets. That being said, I can't wait to see how your Italeri F4U-4 kit turns out. We're still waiting for a definitive 1/72 F4U-4 and subsequent kit.

Mike

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgEKLO94Ujg

 

 

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3 hours ago, 72modeler said:

You might want to go easy on the riveting on the fuselage, as the Corsair had large sections of skinning that were spot welded together- so very few visible  panel lines, with the skinning being flush riveted to the  stringers and formers. When the primer/surfacer was applied before painting, the flush rivets would be filled and  hidden; I have attached a link to a Corsair restoration to give you an idea of what the fuselage would look like- in the section that has been primered, you can't see any evidence of the flush rivets. That being said, I can't wait to see how your Italeri F4U-4 kit turns out. We're still waiting for a definitive 1/72 F4U-4 and subsequent kit.

Mike

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgEKLO94Ujg

 

 

Thanks for comment, Mike. I read about this, but at some photos rivets are visible, both after restoration and on archive ones. So i decided to add all rivet lines according to drawing and watch the result. It seems to me, after primer, sanding, painting, weathering ang lacquer most part of rivets will be rather marked than seen.

This Corsair is a "trainer", i want to understand, how to build good looking F4U with minimal usage of aftermarket and minimal time consuming. Now i see, that no reason to make detailed air intakes and cockpit - you will see almost nothing after adding conopy and painting canopy frames. Some photos will be at evening.

I plan to built a series of Corsairs

- Korean war F4U-4, -4B, -4P, -5, -5N, -5P, AU-1

- French Indochina AU-1 and F4U-7

- British Corsair IV in colors of 1851 squadron as it appeared in 1945 in Hong Kong

Plans are great, but i don't want to waste too much time to avoid another "emotional burnout".

 

Edited by Egi vandor
correction
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Interesting build so far and very well done. I tend to agree with @72modeler about the rivets. However this is your build so build it to please yourself. I look forward to seeing the final results. 

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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38 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Interesting build so far and very well done. I tend to agree with @72modeler about the rivets. However this is your build so build it to please yourself. I look forward to seeing the final results. 

 

Dennis

On this restored F4U-4 rivets are clearly visible (sorry, cant remember suorce of photo)

F-4U-4-corsair-49.jpg

 

fg-1d-15.jpg

 

Probably when i will build next Corsair (F4U-7 for French Indochina war) i won't show all rivets, but will try to imitate "stressed skin". It depends on results of this build.

As far as i know, postwar Corsairs were primed by Zink Chromate, so chips and scuffs must be imitated by this color, not silver?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, New Year week left behind, all now it's time to continue the build.

Canopy parts were covered with "Pledge Floor Care" to improve transparency.

Kit cannon barrels were cut off from their fairings ang changed to metal pipes.

 

IMG_8365.jpg

 

After cannons were mounted, i suddenly found, that i forgot about landing light!

It was added, but it appears smaller, than must be.

 

IMG_8387.jpg

Edited by Egi vandor
correction
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1 minute ago, Tailspin Turtle said:

That’s not a landing light that illuminates the ground ahead of the airplane, it’s an approach light that provides the airplane’s angle of attack to the LSO. Also see http://thanlont.blogspot.com/2012/04/night-carrier-landings-in-beginning.html

Yes, that's my mistake. My English is not very well, so i may write anything wrong sometimes.

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I distracted a little from Corsair to begin another 1/43 MAZ (it will be MAZ-200M tractor), which may be seen at the background of photos. While aftermarket for MAZ didn't arrived yet, i returned to Corsair.

Canopy was masked by Tamiya masking tape and mounted on place. Sad, but Italeri canopy is far from perfect. If you want to make it closed, big gap will appear between two parts, and it's impossible to make it opened, because canopy is very thick.

 

IMG_8392.jpg

 

IMG_8402.jpg

 

I tried to use Print Scale decal sheet "US WWII /Korea bomb and rocket markings", but decal is very thick and fragile. Result was so unsatisfactory, so i masked it with rust and dust

 

IMG_8400.jpg

 

Now i ask for a little help. What Tamiya color may be used for Korean War US naval planes - Corsairs, Skyraiders, Guardians, Avengers? I bought XF-17 Sea Blue, but it seems too grey and too dark. AS-8 Navy Blue looks better, but available only as spray.

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The Tamiya colors Ive seen used before for the GSB is this mix.

6 parts - XF17 Sea blue

6 parts - XF8 Flat blue

1 part - XF53 Neutral grey

 

supposedly thats a good mix for the Glossy Sea Blue. I use Vallejo and Ammo by Mig paints currently for my navy colors. I haven't tried the mix yet myself.   

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