Robert Stuart Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 A long time back, my father and I used to play board games by, amoung others, Avalon Hill. One of Avalon Hill's games was PanzerBlitz, which represented combat units at squad or company level. Amoung the most effective weapons, and my favourite, was the German Hummel, self propelled artillery - very effective at long range. I have wanted to build a model of one ever since, and now, maybe, I have a chance. Here it is ... ... one of Dragon's Hummels, an early version. Sprue shot ... There is a review and critique of the kit on the PMMS site, http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/dragon/dr6204.htm with detailed sprue shots. I think I'll start with the tracks, which should require less thought than the rest of the kit ... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 Hi Robert and welcome to the GB. That looks like a rather interesting kit - I'm looking forward to seeing it in progress. ....and good luck with the tracks! Kind regards, Stix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 Nice choice, I built this kit a few years ago. It was my first go at individual track links, I enjoyed building the horses. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 What a horrible looking vehicle. I don't like the look of that at all. Still, 'tis the season of good will, so good luck. I'm off to paint my beautiful Nashorn. Rearguards, Badder. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 On 25/12/2018 at 10:17, Badder said: What a horrible looking vehicle. I don't like the look of that at all. Still, 'tis the season of good will, so good luck. I'm off to paint my beautiful Nashorn. Rearguards, Badder. @Badder, this is my take on a pachyderm I do like the weathering on your Nashorn, very nice Now, let's bumble back to the bees I did start with the tracks, I did, honest ... 14 links. We were away over Christmas, so I tried cutting out the tracks, but ... a) they needed to be glued, and I didn't want any accidents, and b) the light was poor for modelling, so I limited myself to enough links for the spares on the bow. More progress, however,m this morning ... Spare links and drive sprokets are pushed on, the rest is glued. And another view, including rear idlers That's the same spare links, they split when I removed them from the bow for the photo ... easily mended. The only problem so far is the gap between the front glacis (?) plate and the gun plate (??). I'll attack that with Milliput and water later (my prefered filler). 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Good to see you are underway Robert but slightly annoying about the gap. I'm sure you'll get it sorted okay. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 7 hours ago, PlaStix said: Good to see you are underway Robert but slightly annoying about the gap. I'm sure you'll get it sorted okay. Kind regards, Stix Oh, a bit of filler will see to it Stix, I'm expecting worst - don't know what but Dragon do have a reputation to maintain 🤔 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 On 12/29/2018 at 11:39 AM, Robert Stuart said: Excellent. I love it. Rearguards, Badder 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Hi Robert, It's interesting to look directly down on that Hummel and compare parts with the much more attractive Nashorn. 😜 By 'parts' I mean the parts of the real vehicles. The floor panels are identical in every way for example, whilst the Hummel's glacis ends shorter at the top end. As for the actual kit's parts,, Dragon have modelled fenders for the front of the vehicle, whilst Tamiya's run from the front all the way to the back. Looking forward to the next instalment. Happy New Year, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Not sure, 'cause I don't have suitable reference, but ... Dragon use the same sprue for the glacis on their Nashorn, Hornisse and early Hummels - but the different guns must have imposed different loads on the vehicles which would suggest the designs could vary? Dragon's lower main hull is a very nice if complex moulding. A simpler design could have produced continuous fenders (similar to the Tamiya version) without loss of detail. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 10 hours ago, Robert Stuart said: Dragon's lower main hull is a very nice if complex moulding. A simpler design could have produced continuous fenders (similar to the Tamiya version) without loss of detail. Based on my experience of Dragon aircraft and other Club Members comments about their AFV range I don't think Dragon do 'simple'. That gap is also about right for the course. You're off to a great start though. Nice rhino sculpture BTW. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 How much paint do you need for just one tank? This lot arrived in today's mail - not the cleaner, but the rest ... I've also decided Dragon's tracks are too brittle to hold - not the links, they are fine, but I'll be forever re-gluing them, so I bought this too There are other products that Badder has mentioned in his thread that might be better and cheaper, but at least ... I could find these at big H Ah, looks like he chose the same brand (different track) from another source ... 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Hi Robert, I have to be honest and say I've never used a surface primer. so I'll be interested to see what it does! And yes, I went for the Friuls in the end. It was the most convenient option, if not the best. (I do like the Kaizen's a lot) I don't know if you've ever made Friuls or anything like them before, but if not, good luck. I 've finished assembling mine, apart from the ice 'scrags'. I won't say it was easy, but they look great and I've not been put off using them again. I see you've gone for the box standard, late track links. I went for the Winterketten, which, i'm sorry, can only increase the beauty of my Nashorn over your ugly brute. Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Hello @Badder I've used Vallejo's Russian Green (4BO) which was pleasant to use as a base coat covered by other products. The MiG paints will change this Dunkelgelb - though I doubt I'll use them quite as intended by MiG. For deep shadows I'll may use other products. The Fruil (or any pinned) tracks are new to me. Using these will break a long standing rule of mine: that the total cost of all AM products* shouldn't exceed the price of the kit. These tracks alone are nearly half as much again as I paid for the plastic. *Not counting paint. The track set I chose are the ones Friul recomend for early Hummels ( http://www.friulmodel.hu/user/content/cms/tank_list_for_helping_find_tracks_easily.pdf ), though other options must have been used in practice. I do feel the svelt look of these track will be much better suited to the warm Greek climat where my intended model served than the well-padded form needed in Russian winters. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 Been working on the Friul Modellismo tracks ... I have to say that, once you have the right tools they are pleasant and easy to work with. Time consuming but time the only fault so far. 'Have the right tools' is key here. The first 80 links .. My process is very similar to Badder's... Differences are: (probably too much detail here - skip on if you wish) I've cleaned the remains of the casting sprues before starting to assemble the tracks. Working in batches of 10 links, I ream out the pin holes (two sets per link) Then assemble five pairs of links - which then become two fours and a two - then a six and a four - then ten links. I'm not cutting short lengths of track pin (neither, I think, does Badder), but pushing the end of the pin wire to join the links. I pull it back out to make sure I'm confident of length (unnecessary, but ... ). I then reinsert the pin wire and cut it flush with the track. When I have a small batch of 10 link units, I glue (CA glue) the open pin-ends and leave them to settle. Assembling the longer runs, I'm marking the leading link with a fibre tip pen, so I can find the right pin to glue. One thing with these open horn links that I have noticed is that there is a little flash filling the guide horns (three horns in 80 links so far). This is, possibly, easier to deal with when the tracks are assembled, than on loose links. (p.s. I used to have a working spell checker, it seems to have stopped helping ... all spelling errors are my own). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 Good to hear the tracks are going together okay Robert and thank you for the information about how you are doing them. I must have a go with some Friulmodel tracks at some point. They do look good. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 5 minutes ago, PlaStix said: Good to hear the tracks are going together okay Robert and thank you for the information about how you are doing them. I must have a go with some Friulmodel tracks at some point. They do look good. Kind regards, Stix Thanks Stix, having tried them, I feel you must have a go - (maybe on a Pz III ? ) I think we all develop our own technique. Most people seem to cut the track pins first. That is prototypical, but it strikes me as fiddley in this scale; unnecessarily adding to the number of small parts that could disappear into the carpet. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 1 hour ago, Robert Stuart said: My process is very similar to Badder's... Differences are: (probably too much detail here - skip on if you wish) I've cleaned the remains of the casting sprues before starting to assemble the tracks. Working in batches of 10 links, I ream out the pin holes (two sets per link) Then assemble five pairs of links - which then become two fours and a two - then a six and a four - then ten links. I'm not cutting short lengths of track pin (neither, I think, does Badder), but pushing the end of the pin wire to join the links. I pull it back out to make sure I'm confident of length (unnecessary, but ... ). I then reinsert the pin wire and cut it flush with the track. When I have a small batch of 10 link units, I glue (CA glue) the open pin-ends and leave them to settle. Assembling the longer runs, I'm marking the leading link with a fibre tip pen, so I can find the right pin to glue. One thing with these open horn links that I have noticed is that there is a little flash filling the guide horns (three horns in 80 links so far). This is, possibly, easier to deal with when the tracks are assembled, than on loose links Hi Robert, Nice work on the tracks. Yep, pretty similar methodology to mine. I didn't bother reaming out all of the pin holes first though, saving lots of time. Most of the holes were fine as they were. Three needed reaming out, plus one which got CA on. Yes, some other holes were a 'tight fit, but (and I did this for every link) I found that by inserting the wire and then using flat pliers to grasp the wire 2-3mm from the link I could 'twizzle' the wire in. And you're correct I didn't cut any pins beforehand. I kept the loop of wire in the same hand that held the 'mated' track links, and inserted the wire into the links as described above, then cut the wire close to the links. I did add a blob of CA to the ends to fix the pins, but as I suspected, some pins became loose when if filed down the excess wire - filing away the CA as well. I just turned the ccmpleted length of tracks on their side, dropped small amounts of thin CA onto a small metal 'spatula' and ran that along all of the pin holes - a job taking but a few seconds. Rearguards, Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 OOH ROBERT... I HOPE I'VE CAUGHT YOU BEFORE YOU FINISH YOUR TRACKS! DON'T connect your tracks into a loop! If your Hummel is like my Nashorn, the gap between the return rollers and the overhanging superstructure narrow towards the front. I couldn't just 'drop' the tracks over the rollers. I had to thread them through. Obviously, I won't be able to connect my tracks into a loop until they are in place. Rearguards Badder 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 Thanks Badder, (you caught me are well in advance of completing my tracks I have only completed one run of 80 links, plus two fours and a two - all for the same side) That sounds like good advice - I am debating whether to add the tracks (and therefore the wheels and running gear) before fixing the front fenders. The rollers are going to be an 'interesting' excercise in their own right anyway - I'll let people know why when I get there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 2 hours ago, Robert Stuart said: Thanks Badder, (you caught me are well in advance of completing my tracks I have only completed one run of 80 links, plus two fours and a two - all for the same side) That sounds like good advice - I am debating whether to add the tracks (and therefore the wheels and running gear) before fixing the front fenders. The rollers are going to be an 'interesting' excercise in their own right anyway - I'll let people know why when I get there. Ah, yes! Lucky you! I wonder if that's why Dragon moulded the front fenders separately? Certainly, if you can put the tracks on before the fenders, it'll be a much easier job - and I would imagine you could put them on already connected into a loop. Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 I'm now up to 102 links per side, which is where I'll rest on the links, untill I can add the wheels and rollers. Talking of rollers, I have a problem with their axles - or two of their axles. So far as I'm aware, this is how they arrived, bent to the point of breaking. It is possible that I inflicted that damage, but I believe not. My solution has been to drill out the two offenders, and replace with short lengths of wire In this case, copper earth wire scavenged from some old cable. It is more flexible than plastic, but I hope it will hold up under the weight of the track. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 11, 2019 Author Share Posted January 11, 2019 Started applying paint, this is mostly AV's Dunkelgelb primer ... I dropped my last (cheapie) airbrush half-way through last year. This is the first outing for my replacement, a bit further up market, an H&S Evolution 2-in-1, very nice. @Badder was asking for feed-back on the AV surface primer ... The combination of paint and new airbrush was happily uneventful, they just worked out of the box (or bottle) without extra thinners or flow improver. One problem (down to me) is that I haven't applied much paint between the road wheels. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 Great to see some paint going on Robert and I'm please your new airbrush is up to the job! Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the South African Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 On 1/8/2019 at 11:08 PM, Badder said: Ah, yes! Lucky you! I wonder if that's why Dragon moulded the front fenders separately? Certainly, if you can put the tracks on before the fenders, it'll be a much easier job - and I would imagine you could put them on already connected into a loop. Rearguards, Badder Just a little word of reading waaaay to much. The front fenders on the real tank and also the rear could lift to avoid damage and facilitate cleaning. But in this case it may be so that you could thread your tracklinks. Great build so far mate. Regards: Shaun 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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