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Robert Stuart

Sd.Kfz. 165 Hummel - ### calling it finished ###

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That’s a nice figure set you’ve picked up they build into a very nice scene.

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58 minutes ago, Hewy said:

 Very nicely done camo Robert,looks great that

Thank-you Hewy

 

9 minutes ago, Ozzy said:

That’s a nice figure set you’ve picked up they build into a very nice scene.

Thanks Ozzy, you've used one of them before?

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Yeah, I used them on a build I did with a train dio. I put a few bottles around to add a little atmosphere.

 

 

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23 minutes ago, Ozzy said:

Yeah, I used them on a build I did with a train dio

I remember seeing your photos in that build ... but hadn't connected with individual kits.

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Hi Robert,

All looking good!

An interesting collection of goodies you have there.

A nice 'pin-up' poster slapped on the side of your Bee will improve its looks by a factor of about 1,000,000.

How are you at figure painting? I'm rubbish!

 

BTW, Tamiya's solid Nashorn barrel is great, with only the faintest of seam lines. So faint, I removed them with my thumbnail. The added 3-part muzzle has a ring inside  with a 'shell width' aperture (not sure what it's called) and whilst you can see beyond that, the solid barrel isn't really visible.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Thanks Badder

2 hours ago, Badder said:

How are you at figure painting? I'm rubbish! 

Mmm, Painting? I like to think I'm competent, but I'm better at sculpture and drawing ...

handstand-150x300.jpg

... but reducing that to 1/35 would be a pain

 

 

One of my ETA 'Signal magazines' includes a small version of this cover from 1941 ...

th?id=OIP.yaD2xpiLefMuCyCTPT7c3QHaJ7&w=1

 

Maybe not as risqué an image as a gunner would have wanted, but one that might be displayed and survive foraging by 'friendly' troops.

3 hours ago, Badder said:

BTW, Tamiya's solid Nashorn barrel is great, with only the faintest of seam lines. So faint, I removed them with my thumbnail. The added 3-part muzzle has a ring inside  with a 'shell width' aperture (not sure what it's called) and whilst you can see beyond that, the solid barrel isn't really visible.

Just as well.  If I'd had the nerve, I should have tried for a metal barrel.  My next AFV does have a metal barrel (:penguin:), but will have to wait for June ...

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20 minutes ago, Robert Stuart said:

Thanks Badder

Mmm, Painting? I like to think I'm competent, but I'm better at sculpture and drawing ...

handstand-150x300.jpg

... but reducing that to 1/35 would be a pain

 

 

One of my ETA 'Signal magazines' includes a small version of this cover from 1941 ...

th?id=OIP.yaD2xpiLefMuCyCTPT7c3QHaJ7&w=1

 

Maybe not as risqué an image as a gunner would have wanted, but one that might be displayed and survive foraging by 'friendly' troops.

Just as well.  If I'd had the nerve, I should have tried for a metal barrel.  My next AFV does have a metal barrel (:penguin:), but will have to wait for June ... 

We seem to have similar interests then Robert,

I've done a fair bit of artwork over the years, though more your Sci-fi, fantasy stuff. I did a lot of work for a local Heavy Metal band in the 90's and regularly bump into people who still have my artwork on their walls!

aKcOP2Z.jpg

 

4830e2x.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Liking the magazine cover. Typical Nazi brainwashing material. That'd keep 'em warm on the Eastern Front - when set alight!

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

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The Jack-in-the-box image looks (sort of) familiar, I wonder if I've seen it somewhere else?

 

Progress - I've attached the bee's legs ... wheels, sprokets, tracks, that sort of thing ...

2018-pz-iv-067.jpg

You may also (just) spot a cable on the front glacis in this image.

 

And a few details at the back

2018-pz-iv-066.jpg

They will need a bit of re-painting, but that's normal

 

I've also started working out which figures I'll use, and where they'll go ...

2018-pz-iv-065.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, Robert Stuart said:

The Jack-in-the-box image looks (sort of) familiar, I wonder if I've seen it somewhere else?

The character in the box (''Hacker'' also seen in the image below it) was one I designed for the band Bardiche- a Swindon band, back in the late 80's early 90's.  So, if you were around High Wycombe back then you might have seen them play there and sell cassettes/posters which these images (and others featuring Hacker) were on? They played a 'live music rock venue' pub there 3 or 4 times during that time. (can't remember name of pub)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Good to see the tracks on Robert,

And those figures look promising, sitting on the back.

 

A question for you, saying as the Hummel and Nashorn are so similar - that rear panel they are sitting on - is there a daylight gap between it and the  floor behind the ammo/charge boxes? Both times I've build my Nashorn, there's been a gap which I've had to get rid of by filing the ends off the side panels and reducing their length by about 0.5mm.

The thing is, I'm pretty sure that in real life, the entire rear panel could be dropped down ,a bit like a tail-gate, and so maybe that gap is SUPPOSED to be there?

If your Hummel has the gap, then I've made a boo boo!

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Badder

9 hours ago, Badder said:

A question for you, saying as the Hummel and Nashorn are so similar - that rear panel they are sitting on - is there a daylight gap between it and the  floor behind the ammo/charge boxes? Both times I've build my Nashorn, there's been a gap which I've had to get rid of by filing the ends off the side panels and reducing their length by about 0.5mm.

The thing is, I'm pretty sure that in real life, the entire rear panel could be dropped down ,a bit like a tail-gate, and so maybe that gap is SUPPOSED to be there?

If your Hummel has the gap, then I've made a boo boo!

Do you mean these gaps behind the boxes?

2018-pz-iv-068.jpg

 

I think it is needed to open those boxes.  They were hinged at the top*, and, as it is, there isn't enough space to set the lid vertical, much less open beyond the vetical.

 

*and half-way down the front.

 

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5 hours ago, Robert Stuart said:

Do you mean these gaps behind the boxes?

2018-pz-iv-068.jpg

 

Hi Robert,

No, what I meant was does the rear panel fit flush with the floor panel, or is there a gap - as if the floor panel is too short and doesn't join the bottom of the rear panel. With my Nashorn, I could look down behind my long 'chest' and see daylight between the floor panel and the end panel. I got rid of that gap by sanding/filing the side panels a bit shorter. I've seen other Tamiya Nashorns where they left the gap. I think I'm right in saying that I've seen a Dragon Nashorn with the same gap. That's why I'm wondering if the gap is supposed to be there't .

As your Hummel is built on an identical chassis, and isn't a Tamiya kit, if the gap is there then it's supposed to be there.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Great to see more progress Robert and excellent progress it looks too! It's always good to see the tracks going on! And good luck with the figures! :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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1 hour ago, Badder said:

Hi Robert,

No, what I meant was does the rear panel fit flush with the floor panel, or is there a gap - as if the floor panel is too short and doesn't join the bottom of the rear panel. With my Nashorn, I could look down behind my long 'chest' and see daylight between the floor panel and the end panel. I got rid of that gap by sanding/filing the side panels a bit shorter. I've seen other Tamiya Nashorns where they left the gap. I think I'm right in saying that I've seen a Dragon Nashorn with the same gap. That's why I'm wondering if the gap is supposed to be there't .

As your Hummel is built on an identical chassis, and isn't a Tamiya kit, if the gap is there then it's supposed to be there.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

At the back? No

Had to use my phone to light this area (phone is the fuzzy thing at the top of this imaget) , but ...

2018-pz-iv-069.jpg

 

I did, however, have a small gap (0.5 to 1mm?) between the gun platform and the glacis, behind the driver's compartment.

2018-pz-iv-027.jpg

 

This I subsequently filled

2018-pz-iv-040.jpg&key=1e46fc27cb397c9d9

 

 

HTH

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I'm watching @Badder going through the pain of painting kill rings on a gun barrel, meanwhile I have the, perhaps simpler, task of painting ranging rods ...

 

Having masked my rods, I then had to un-wrap them ...

 

Three stages of un-wrapping - which may give a hint as to how I approached painting these rods.

Ths tape in the middle of the middle image (below) was used when dealing with bleed ...

2018-pz-iv-070.jpg

 

I did have the advantage of a scanner, so I could 'photograph' the rods actual size, and some suitable graphics software to work out where I wanted the ?guide bands? to help line up my masking tape.*

The tape was folded over the ranging rods,  squeezing the tape into the gaps between the rods (to reduce bleed), and finally squeezing closed (again, to reduce bleed).  Accurate line up is easier (IMO) than rolling the tape around a stick (gun barrel, or in this case, ranging rod).

 

There is yet more bleed to deal with - it is visible in the last section of the image above, more so in this dry fit image ...

2018-pz-iv-071.jpg

 

The shoes (?) and spikes still need to be painted, and I have to work out what colour to use on the rings(?) first big white stripe.

 

 

 

*Note, the red/white on my scan was in the wrong order, the rods are OK though.

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Ah ha! I see what you mean now Robert.

I did contemplate doing the same to my Nashorn's shorter, and more attractive, ranging poles, but decided to stick with the plain wood prescribed by Tamiya.

I do prefer the red and white ones, adding some nice colour to the model, but I'm not sure I'd have been happy to be driven around in the back of a thin-skinned vehicle with a big red and white target on the back,

 

As for your bleed problems, you could just use a heavy wash and run that into the 'crevices'. That area would have gotten fairly dirty after all, with splashes, spray, and mud from the crew's' boots.

 

Liking the bucket where it is now.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

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Thanks Badder,

Those ranging rods are a bit bright.  Before gluing them on, I plan to soften the bright contrast with a light misting (modulation coat?) of Dunkelgelb, and, maybe, a light shadow of burnt umber.

 

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Somebody asked if I'd place my Hummel in a diorama, and I did buy some figures to go with it ...

... but I feel it needs something else, maybe a tree?  Looking on YouTube for how to do videos - there are plenty, mostly aimed at railway modellers,

 

So I bought a roll of Oasis florists wire at the local branch of a craft shop and cut it into lengths.   If I'd known I'd use the whole roll for one tree, I would have cut every nth loop (maybe every 3rd?) and had a more even set of lengths - but these seemed to do.

 

2018-pz-iv-073.jpg

For twisting, this florists wire is soft and easy - maybe easier than sculptors armature wire.

 

2018-pz-iv-075.jpg

The next stage will be to coat the tree, developing some bark - and, maybe, lose the keeper wire runnimg backward around the trunk?

 

There is a decided risk that I'll not finish the diaorama before the end of this GB - time looks tight for the amount of work I envisage.

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Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, Robert Stuart said:

Somebody asked if I'd place my Hummel in a diorama, and I did buy some figures to go with it ...

... but I feel it needs something else, maybe a tree?  Looking on YouTube for how to do videos - there are plenty, mostly aimed at railway modellers,

 

Hi Robert,

Probably a bit late now, but I 'invented' a method for making realistic trees (I might even say, VERY realistic trees) using real twigs, wire-cored garden twine, nylon monofilament fishing line and herbs.

The results can be seen in two of my dioramas - The first, a completed diorama 'Carry on Regardless' features two trees and is available to view in the Dioramas RFI section under that tag. EDIT - FORGET ABOUT THAT RFI FOR NOW, MOST OF THE PHOTOS HAVE GONE. I WILL REPLACE THEM AT SOME POINT.

 

 

The other, far larger tree, was a step-up in realism and is available to view in the Dioramas WIP section under the title ;Ever Evolving Diorama' (currently on hold due to THIS STGB.

Here's the finished tree:

yXsAFWg.jpg

 

And here's the link to the start of the tree's construction.

 

 

Anyway, they may help in some small way, if nothing else.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

Edited by Badder

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More lovely progress Robert and I'm looking forward to seeing your tree in progress. :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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Thanks Badder

I had a quick look at your thread, there is a LOT to read there, too much for me when using an iPad.

 

I did see stuff on buildings in the thread too ... and casting walls?

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I decided that the wire I used for my first tree was a bit heavy, so bought a reel of finer wire, and made a couple of trees from that ...

 

Bare metal

2018-pz-iv-076.jpg

 

I gave the trunk and branches a coat of latex.  This was followed by successive coats of latex mixed with a little acrylic ink, some yellow ochre in layer two, mainly white in ther rest.

 

Two trees together

2018-pz-iv-077.jpg

 

One, with figure - this is Dragon's artillery man included with the Hummel

2018-pz-iv-078.jpg

 

And the other.  The bulk of the lower trunk here has been covered with some stripes of kitchen towel soaked in latex.

2018-pz-iv-079.jpg

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Hi Robert,

The trees are looking great with the thinner wire.

 

Rearguards

Badder

 

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Thanks Badder

I've started work on a base, and started painting the trees ...

 

2018-pz-iv-082.jpg

 

I stole the idea for the embankments from  @PlaStix build, here, though I feel I can only aspire to the quality of his base.  I've used a drop of latex glue to fix the bits of polystrene food tray here - trees, vehicle and figures are loose.

 

The trees both have coats Halfords grey primer.

The smaller one has been given a mix of blue and white acrylic ink - though I'm wondering whether to re-visit the texture of its trunk?

 

2018-pz-iv-081.jpg

 

 

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Windy today which means spraying outside is difficult ...

Never mind, I made some progress on the base, adding some plaster bandage

 

2018-pz-iv-083.jpg

 

The tub of 'dirty' water contains a squeeze of burnt umber (acrylic) ink and a couple squirts of yellow ochre which help take the stark white off the plaster.

 

And with the trees attached - I hope the plaster bandage will help tie the trees in place

2018-pz-iv-084.jpg

 

 

Note to self: If I use plaster bandage again, get some pinking shears to soften those hard edges.

 

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Fantastic work on the trees and the base Robert! It all looks to be coming together beautifully! :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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