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Robert Stuart

Sd.Kfz. 165 Hummel - ### calling it finished ###

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Yet more excellent progress Robert. The fighting compartment is coming together beautifully! :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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On ‎2‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 1:33 AM, Robert Stuart said:

Thanks @mahavelona, the floor is a mix of various Dunkelgelbs together with acrylic ink washes and graphite pencil.

Ah ha! Acrylic Inks eh?

You're the first person I've seen use them (apart from me)

 

I'm guessing that's just Burnt Umber you've used, so far?

How are you getting  on with it?

I have nearly 20 colours now and I have noticed that some behave slightly differently. I find that Burnt Umber, applied neat, dries slightly gloss, but dries matt when diluted with water. I find that quite handy - using it neat for chipping it looks metallic,  as a wash it doesn't. White meanwhile, dries slightly gloss when used neat, but dries matt and slightly powdery when used as a wash.  It's also less 'water resilient' than most colours.  That's been very handy for whitewashing as I can use a stiff dry brush to rub at the 'powdery' finish and reveal colours beneath - or I can use a stiff wet brush, reactivate the ink and either remove it, or spread it out, or blend it.

And antelope brown is a weird one. It looks green in the bottle and I've used it over Olive Drab (acrylic paint) on a Willys Jeep where it definitely look to be green. Over lighter colours though it looks brown.

 

Your fighting compartment is looking better with each addition/treatment. I suspect it will look better than mine! - or should I say 'uglier'?

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Progress on my Bumble Bee - it is now closed up ...

2018-pz-iv-030.jpg

 

 

2018-pz-iv-031.jpg

 

I've also added the exhaust pipes - these don't go to a silencer.  When fitted to very early versions, the silencer was directly under the back step - possibly a problem in practice?

2018-pz-iv-032.jpg

 

3 hours ago, Badder said:

I'm guessing that's just Burnt Umber you've used, so far?

 

Hello @Badder

I've used FW inks for years - if I recall correctly, there was no reference to Daler-Rowney on them when I started using the brand.

Guessing, there are about a dozen colours in my collection, though several duplicate jars.

On your experience of their white, I agree it is very opaque, but I find it surprisingly matt (vinyl acrylic paints without matting agents should usually be gloss or semi-gloss from the binder).

 

I don't use Antelope brown. This sounds as though it should be treated as raw umber, take a look at this page, the second colour chart (the one with colour names at the bottom) http://danielsmith.com/blogs/raw-umber-violet-daniel-smith-original-oil-color-feature/ (Daniel Smith oil paint - other brands exist).

HTH

 

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Spent today working on small external details ...

 

The jack and travel clamp (this latter has two small, vulnerable leavers that I'll leave off for now)

2018-pz-iv-033.jpg

 

Eight of these loops - I'm not sure if the are lifting hoops, or for camo tie-down ... maybe both

2018-pz-iv-034.jpg

 

The ?tow cable? brackets and a start on the head lamp

2018-pz-iv-035.jpg

 

 

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Hi Robert,

Nice progress and all looking tidy.

Apart from the design of the gun travel lock, the parts in your latest post are identical to the Nassy's.

Yes, the brackets are for the tow-cable, which was coiled around them.

 

I've seen photos of both Hummels and (the much prettier) Nashorns with canvas roofs covering the forward areas of their fighting compartments and bunched/rolled up behind the gun mantlet when not in use. I believe the canvas is stored in the long 'chest' at the back of the compartment beneath the rear doors.  The 'loops' then, are for tying the canvas down when it's extended over the compartment - and the roof COULD cover the entire compartment. But often, wire was threaded through the loops so that branches/foliage could be poked down  behind them to camouflage the vehicle quickly.

 

On ‎2‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 4:36 PM, Robert Stuart said:

On your experience of their white, I agree it is very opaque, but I find it surprisingly matt (vinyl acrylic paints without matting agents should usually be gloss or semi-gloss from the binder).

 

I should have said that it dries glossy when applied neat and thick. (Well, in my experience anyway) otherwise it dries matt and slightly powdery - not as powdery as chalk, but powdery enough for the surface to be rubbed away with a very stiff dry brush.

 

I'm now constructing the gun for my Nashorn, and although I've built this model before, I'm still surprised at how big it is. It's almost 3ft longer than the vehicle.

I know your Hummel's gun is much shorter, but I look forward to seeing it being constructed and put in place.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Thanks @Badder

Yes, the gun next - or very soon anyway.

 I still have to paint the outside of my beautiful bee, where your rhino has been washed dirty.  There are a few details to be added first - I'll leave the (fragile looking) back step and spare wheel brackets until closer to the time.

 

'Storing' the vehicle's canvas cover is one of my options for covering my missing filler cap - though I want to try another, more complex solution first.  

 

The long box at the back?

2018-pz-iv-036.jpg

 

Where you have one long box, I have two short(ish) boxes, which on the Hummel would have stored the separate projectiles.

(Ignore the plank, it is meant to be a loader's shelf, but isn't quite right.)

 

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Hi Robert. Looks like you have been making excellent progress. I do like all the detailing you are doing. The insides have worked out rather nicely. Looking forward to more. :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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Thanks Stix

 

More progress - I have started working on the gun ...

2018-pz-iv-039.jpg

Dry fitted

 

2018-pz-iv-040.jpg

Dry fitted

 

That may look like a lot of progress - but the gun is still broken down into major components to ease painting ....

2018-pz-iv-041.jpg

... and there are a few more bits and bobs to add

 

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Hi Robert,

Good progress. That gun is such an ugly and primitive looking brute though.

One question: are there any issues with looking down the business end of the barrel? I mean, is it nice and smooth and deep, or are there some things down there which should not be seen?

 

Watched a documentary the other day - Narrow escapes of WWII, and saw some brief footage of knocked out Hummels and Nashorns. Even with bits blown off, the Nashorns were still much prettier!:rofl2:

 

Reargaurds,

Badder

 

 

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My beautiful Bee?

26 minutes ago, Badder said:

One question: are there any issues with looking down the business end of the barrel? I mean, is it nice and smooth and deep, or are there some things down there which should not be seen? 

 

IIRC, there are some location pin near the breech (breech itself is separate), but lining up the barrel took a bit of effort.  Does this image answer your question?

 

2018-pz-iv-042.jpg

The business end

 

There are some things that should be seen, but are not ... the rifling.  If I were to invest in a good AM barrel, I could cure that (there are a selection listed with comments on the PMMS site).

 

I've just checked the Nashorn instructions (on Scalemates) and see that the Tamiya barrel is solid.

That saves lining up issues, but introduces other cosmetic problems.

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And another detail ...

2018-pz-iv-043.jpg

 

A funnel in etched brass by Eureka XXL that I am thinking of using to hide the missing filler cap.

 

Rolling this was an interesting experiment, not least because it is, I think, my first rolled brass component.  Tools used ... a scalpel for cutting, and a couple of wooden cocktail sticks for rolling and glueing (CA).

 

Now, to see if it holds together during painting ....

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14 hours ago, Robert Stuart said:

 

There are some things that should be seen, but are not ... the rifling.  If I were to invest in a good AM barrel, I could cure that (there are a selection listed with comments on the PMMS site).

Now, see, I was going to ask if the real gun had rifling and was it represented in the model (considering the large diameter of the barrel), but then I thought 'no, surely the real gun was smooth bore, given the calibre and the time period and  I'd look a fool for asking it.' Now I'm revealing myself as a fool for admitting it.

Lovely bit of etch btw. Seems a shame to paint it.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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1 hour ago, Badder said:

surely the real gun was smooth bore, given the calibre and the time period

I thought the same but there aren images of a 15cm Howitzer on this Wikipedia page says I would have been wrong.

 

 

Progress - I've added a coat of primer to the outside of the Hummel ...

2018-pz-iv-044.jpg

 

"Seems a pity to paint the funnel"

I can just see the (painted) funnel in the image above, here is an easier shot ...

2018-pz-iv-045.jpg

 

 

 

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Started the camouflage scheme today - I'll stick with a simple yellow / green scheme.

 

Gun, shield, and rear doors are dry fitted here

 

2018-pz-iv-047.jpg

 

2018-pz-iv-048.jpg

 

Those following Badder's thread might know that the shield has snapped intp two pieces - you can see one of the sides displaced here

2018-pz-iv-049.jpg

 

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Looking good Robert.

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Hi Robert,

I do like that camo, a bit like tiger stripes, or the rear end of an okapi.

So, 'fess up on the camo - torn paper for masking, or what?

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Hi Robert. Looks like you have been making wonderful progress. I am so impressed with your camo - it really looks the part. :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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Thanks @Badder and @PlaStix

 

12 hours ago, Badder said:

I do like that camo, a bit like tiger stripes, or the rear end of an okapi.

So, 'fess up on the camo - torn paper for masking, or what?

For the hull and shield, torn blue masking tape (same as the stuff under the fenders).  I tear the tape lengthways - which gets strips abour four to six inches long.   {edit} After removing the masking, I did fill in some stripes and remove others free hand {/edit}

 

For the the gun carriage, I wound in the back stop on my airbrush and sprayed that free hand - paper tape was too painful to apply there or on the gun.

 

I will (probably) re-visit the gun barrel, because there is a detail I don't like.

 

 

Decals are on

 ... but I've been a little heavy handed with the post decal modulation coat.


2018-pz-iv-058.jpg

 

2018-pz-iv-053.jpg

 

The doors are still seperate items

2018-pz-iv-055.jpg

 

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Lovely work Robert.

 

I didn't look at the kit review, and I don't think you've mentioned it, but does this kit come with figures? Either way, will you be showing the Hummel in a diorama?

 

Rearguards

Badder

 

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Thanks Badder

How are you, are you able to get back to modelling yet?

 

4 hours ago, Badder said:

does this kit come with figures? Either way, will you be showing the Hummel in a diorama?

 

Short answer:

The kit does come with three figures, two cavalry and an artillery man.  I'm thinking about a vingette

 

Longer answer, missing the point

In typical Dragon fashion, in their instructions, they have blanked out one complete cavalry soldier as waste plastic - he isn't waste, he is a complete kit :bangin:

 

I presume the inclusion of cavalry is inspired by this photo of a despatch rider ...

bf2ae38a6314d6677ad7d635fd11cd5f.jpg

 

That is an interesting photo, with some useful info about the spacing of ice cleats (?), clamping brackets for the spare track (are those included in any kit?) and the distribution of mud on the spare track vs the lower hull, but ... it ain't a Hummel!

 

If I do make a vinette, I doubt I'll include any of dragon's figures - the artilleryman needs a lot of modification to filt the vehicle, and the cavalry don't fit the story I'd want to tell.

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Hi Robert,

I have gotten over the worst of the pain phase and am now in the 'extra-exhausted' phase, so whilst I've not had any time off work with my relapse, I sleep a lot more than usual once home. I'll leave the progress report for my own thread though, rather than clutter yours!

 

The photo you've provided is one I've seen before. I have to admit I never noticed the spare track brackets. Those should be easy enough to scratch for anyone who wishes to do so. I was more interested (and still am) in the metal frame for the canvas roof. I've looked far and wide for photos of the actual frame, and its mounting points and have had no luck.

 

Looking forward to seeing your Bee on a base with some figures.

 

Rearguards

Badder

 

 

Edited by Badder

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Hi Robert. Looks like you have made excellent progress. It looks good with the decals and I think what you have done over them looks fine. :thumbsup:

Kind regards, 

Stix 

Edited by PlaStix

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We have a few developments to report

There was a nasty seam running along the gun barrel. The seam has been filled and the gun barrel has been re-painted

2018-pz-iv-059.jpg

 

I've added an etch bucket - 'cause I can

2018-pz-iv-060.jpg

 

Not sure where it will go, here's one (obvious) suggestion

2018-pz-iv-061.jpg

 

Someody (B) asked about a diorama ... well ... this morning the postman (or post lady?) brought a few goodies

From Masterbox, via big H, some Skat Players (die Skatspieler)

2018-pz-iv-062.jpg

 

And some' Tank men'

2018-pz-iv-063.jpg

 

And from a ETA via FoG - some games, Signal magazines and newspapers

2018-pz-iv-064.jpg

 

 

I have no intention of using everything in those packets, but I can now think about arranging a few bits and pieces.

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